Combing and Brushing Hair

     Combing and brushing hair is important to hair care. Hairstylists encourage clients to care for their hair in between salon visits.  However, there are two school of thoughts about combing and brushing hair. First, is the notion, a paid for hair style requires no home maintenance.  Second is the notion to freely recreate your hair style at home. Which notion causes the biggest ruckus? The first one.

     To those who believe home hair care is not needed because it was professionally styled and paid for, may I suggest you lose that notion? For starters, a hairstyle is different from a school of thought. Hairstyles are physical and tangible. Hair styles are affected by the environment, weather and the human touch; unlike beliefs. Hair is not a concept. Hair is physical; it requires maintenance. Combing is mandatory to preserve the integrity of certain hairstyles and scalp. On the other hand there are certain hair styles that do not require a comb. Braids, locs, twists, extension and spiked hair styles do not require frequent combing, but they do require scalp care. Brushing is helpful because it stimulates and exfoliates the scalp. Brushing smooths hair and keeps it shiny.

     Combing and brushing hair is primarily a personal preference influenced by the hairstyle, the  home/environment or and hairstylist. Honestly, there is no science or rule that says textured hair should be combed more or less compared to others without texture. Parents, caregivers, hairstylists and barbers can assist in teaching which comb or brush is best for your hair. They can also assist in teaching the frequency needed to comb or and brush hair.

     Hairstylists, like den prefer customers to care for their hair in between salon visits, just as the dentist wants his patients to care for their teeth in between dental visits. Home hair care is vital to healthy hair, beautiful and super savings!
    

Brushing is not an absolute must in hair care. However, brushing hair is excellent for smoothing, promoting shine and scalp stimulation. Too much brushing can have adverse effect just as too much combing. The one hundred strokes theory is a tad bit outdated, but brushing a few strokes a day surely promotes sheen and blood flow. As for combing, combs are some the most oldest ancient artifacts found at many excavations sites around the world. Some combs even pre-date Christ. I encourage people to comb their hair several (4-6 times) throughout the day to redistribute oils from scalp to ends. This promotes exfoliates the scalp, promotes growth and keeps the ends of hair from drying out and breaking. Many with textured hair complain of not achieving length or believe their hair is not or will not grow because they never can achieve length. In my opinion, lack of combing, using the wrong comb and the wrong techniques are the culprit more than anything.

     There are many different kinds of combs and brushes. Haircare and hair styling are about the right products, the right tools and the right techniques. Be sure you have considered and incorporated all three into the decision making and actions of caring for and styling your hair.

A Journey to Nubia & Kemet by

Angel D. Harriott

     To get an interesting take on the history of combing hair, I recommend my readers to watch "400 Years Without a Comb," a documentary by Dr. Willie Morrow. It is available on YouTube. To learn about the rich history of the ancients and to get an excellent view of ancient combs, read Angel D. Harriott's, A Journey to Nubia & Kemet. Harriott's book is written for children to young adults. It explores African history, culture and contribution. I use it in all my presentations and at the salon to validate Africans contribution to hair and hair styling. This is one of my favorite books. As hairstylists, parents and caretakes, we should have great reading material and a good comb on hand for our clients and loved ones.

   

How to Care for My Hair?

Girl bye...

I often hear that being a cosmetologist is similar to being a psychologist or therapist. Hmph, I beg to differ. Being a cosmetologist is more like being an audience member at a comedy show. While it is true that people do share some interesting problems to us, no problem they share compares to the funny stories they tell. The funny stories they tell about haircare ranks up there with the scene in "Blades of Glory" when Will Ferrell is explaining why use uses "Mane and Tail" shampoo and how he brushes his hair with his special brush 100 times each night...lol Go YouTube it!

In this blog ndogo, I will highlight some of the craziest things I have heard in the name of hair care.  

Love, peace and hair grease!

Understand that for many, cultural practices along with good old fashioned trial and error, plays a pivotal role in the humor of it all. The examples that I find humorous are no attempt to directly or indirectly offend anyone, any culture, any practice or any hair texture. So, read along. Maybe you will get a laugh too!

All right now, here we go!

Starting with the crazy over use of GREASE. OMG! When asked why? The response typically goes like this, "Ladosha, the reason I have so much grease in my hair is because I am trying to keep my hair from feeling so dry!" LOL, you can stop laughing or nodding now! Ok, seriously people, grease will never bring moisture to hair. Grease (of any and all makes) coats your hair. Grease is actually an anti-humectant. So, the more grease/mineral oil you use on your hair, the dryer, more brittle and gritty your hair will feel. How could this be, you ask? Because most greases are made from petroleum. Petroleum will NEVER attract moisture. It coats hair and skin. It sits on top and the toxic waste is absorbed into your skin making your body work hard to get rid of it. Even if you put a plastic cap on it! The minute you take that cap off and your hair or feet dries; both will feel dryer after a few hours. People, do not try this at home or any place else. Grease and synthetic oils are great conductors of heat (though they do burn off, just press the gas pedal on your car). It also adds sheen. If you want moist hair you will need to drink more water and use a product like Decca Plus' Satin Tame. It has ingredients in it to bind moisture, strengthen it, seal the cuticles to keep textured tress from tangling (yeah boyee) and keep hair feeling supple. It does not over soften to compromise texture. It does not coat hair making it feel wet or gooey.

Don't believe the hype.

Next up is the crazy CO-WASH hog wash. What the ham sammich is going on? There are so many hair stylists wondering how are people falling for this. Often when I observe the scalp of a new client during my scalp and hair analysis, I notice what looks like cottage cheese or yogurt on the scalp. When I ask what is going on with your hair? The typical response is, "Oh, Ladosha I went on YOUTUBE and learned about a better way to clean my hair.  It does not have any sulfates and all those other harsh ingredients. It's called co-washing" Ooooh kaaaaay. Again, what the ham sammich is this nonsense? "Listen honey, listen!" The detangling benefits of co-washing often over soften hair after extended use. Leaves a stinch on the hair liken to Peppy Le Pew. And a coating that only Dawn dishwashing liquid can remove. No shampoo on the market and cleanse the scalp and hair effectively of this kind of product. Co-washing your hair is the equivalent  of washing up with lotion. Enough said.

The next crazy attempt done in the name of hair care is the INVERSION METHOD. Yes, it is true that blood flow is essential to the health and growth of hair. You can increase blood flow to the scalp by way of massaging the scalp, brushing to stimulate the scalp, medication, stimulating essential oils (i.e. peppermint, camphor, tea true and the likes), and electric scalp massagers, infrared lights and now "thee" inversion method! The inversion method was accidentally discovered by the original medicine man, Hippocrates. He was using this technique for back problems and accidentally discovered that folks hair was growing. So basically, the name tells it all.  The Inversion Method requires that you hang upside down (hence inversion) or at a certain angle one lays to get the blood flow to the scalp. Anybody can do it, except people who have the following:

Upside down, hair you turn me (in my Diana Ross voice)!

• Low or High blood 
• Detached retina (duuude!)
• Ear infection
• Spinal injury
• Heart or circulatory problems
• Pregnacy (do they really need  warning...lol)
• Hernia
• Obesity (oh well, that excludes me...lol)
• Unhealed fractures or injuries
• Recent Stroke
• Migranes

In the infamous words of one zany crazy comedian, Judy Tenuta, 'It could happen!"

Read the ticker...water, oil/butters and a plastic cap
will not make hair grow.

Next, the crazy thing done in the name of hair care is the GHE a.k.a the Green House Effect for hair. It was created by Mika Lishauna. Again, the name says it all. This one here...SMH. Again, there are some of us hair stylists who just don't get it. I like the analogy of plant care to follicle care...but-ter-umm.  Ok, so in theory the concept is to mimic the effects of what a green house does for plants to hair. GHE instructs users to do 3 things. One, spritz hair with water until damp. Two, apply oil or butter (shea or coconut) to hair and three, cover hair with a plastic cap leaving it on overnight or as long as you can. In the morning style your hair in a non-heat hair style and at night place the cap back on your head to start all over again. According to my readings, the GHE technique was created "to increase blood flow that stimulates hair follicles and raises your hair growth rate." Now I don't know Mika and I most certainly do not know Monica of the "Curly Hair Lounge" blog that I got my quote from; but-er-ummmm. "blood flow" by no stretch of the imagination can NOT come from misting water onto hair, adding oils/butter and then placing a plastic cap on your head for as long as you can. To promote growth for hair all you need is a sound diet, water, bowel movements. And according to Mr. Charles Truss of Decca Plus hair care cleansing, nourishing and circulation will most definitely suffice. Second, humans are wired to only grow about 1/4 inch per month give or take a few millimeters. It ain't happenin' people. Not even with a time lapsed camera attached to your re-qrowth to capture the growth.

Another one, the "PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLES" craze.  Did the Beetles just return to the US from Britain? LOL! This latest craze in hair care is sweeping the globe. Yet, I don't know about this one either. Back in the day in the day we use to just call them french braids, cornrows, plats, wigs or my favorite, "keep yo hands out yo hair!" As for protection, a hat will protect...lol 

Throwback Protective Style formerly known as BRAIDS!

At this point, I'm like Lawrence Fishbourne in"School Daze," Waaaaaaaake up! You can use any word you want. Anytime you stop yanking on it and being heavy handed or aggressive with your styling techniques you won't need protection. Just a new habit!

But wait, there's more. The crazy, zany over rated "NATURAL HAIR" movement. Oh lort! Do not sip tea or do a lap for Jesus! The Pink Panthers were a movement. Ditching your relaxer is not a movement. It is a choice. Listen my dear readers...If it grows from your scalp; it IS natural. For the record whenever, however and with whatever we apply to our hair and skin; we are indeed altering it. Hair is a living pliable fabric that you can do some pretty cool things to. But that does not mean it is any less natural if you alter it in any facet. And for all the licensed pros jumping on this cash cow train to the bank, you should be ashamed of yourselves. Customers are asking, "Shouldn't they have beein making the decision to improve my hair texture on their own with educations and training without the influence of the internet?" These women out here are not stupid. That is why many do not trust or do business with licensed professionals.

Y'all know about The Mack...lol

In conclusion, if you find yourself navigating to the latest trend or hype in hair care and growth, ask yourself, "Who's the mack?" Don't fall for the okey doke. Remember, it only takes 3 steps to promote growth and the health of hair. "Cleanse, nourish and circulation." I suggest you couple those three simple steps with the proper styling tools, caring hands and your natural hair is gonna be alright. While some hair textures and hair styles require more time than others...hey, it what it is; hair!

Awe, Grow Up!

As you grow and change, so should your hair care regimen.

My job as a cosmetologist is not limited to "doing" hair. As a matter of fact, I have a mantra that I say to those who are in the business of shotty hair care, "If you wanna "DO" hair, then get a mannequin!" 

It is in my professional opinion that when a person sits in the styling chair, they are not merely looking for a hair "do." In my opinion, they are looking for trust, honesty, creativity and flexibility which results in a great hair "do". I understand that in the end, nice looking hair is what they want. But let us address what it really takes for hair to look nice. 

First things first, in order to have hair that looks nice, the hair itself must be what? Nice! Nice hair starts at HOME. I will re-type this. Nice hair starts at home. You know, like your health! Before I ask a new customer how would they like for me to style their hair, I always ask, what is their level of commitment to their hair style when they go home. "What did you just say?" Is ALWAYS the response. Then, almost everyone always start their response off with:

• "Back in the day my hair was..."
• "When I was younger my hair use to be..."
• "I had good hair until ..."
• "My hair use to be really long until..."
• "My old hair stylist would make my hair do..."

To me when a person pays any amount of money for a hair style they are making an investment in themselves. You know like a IRA. Therefore, I always take the time to listen and allow them to tell their "use to be" hair story. Why? Honestly, there are many women who are emotionally and financially traumatized by salon experiences. Their image has been compromised by a bad hair style; be it hair color, hair weave or the actual hair style itself. In addition, there are a large number of women who are left feeling bitter about the price of the hair style as well. Therefore, it is imperative that I listen. It is my goal to teach them what it realistically takes to achieve NICE hair. In order for me to teach them effectively, I have to hear and see (yes, I actually have them show me what they do to their hair at home) what they are doing to their hair so that I may correct anything that they are doing that is counter productive to them having nice hair.

The World's Bestest Protein ever!

So, I understand the "when I was younger" premise, but what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that as you age you change. Your hair care regimen should change as you age. The regimen should not only change at the salon, but it should also change at home. Also, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that "aging" hair is not limited to your chronological age, but environmental stressors such as sun rays, curling irons, braiding twisting, flipping, foods, medicines and so on ages hair as well. If you were in the habit of shampooing your hair bi-weekly when you were in your twenties and thirties; you should NOT be doing the same in your forties and fifties. The life expectancy of one strand of hair is 7 years. Each and every hair on your body grows out of its own hole called a follicle. All hair follicles do not grow at the same time like dog hairs do. That explains why some strands of hair are shorter than others. In addition to the hairs on your head (and body) growing at different rates, they also get thinner as we get older. Because your hair gets thinner as you age, the need for chemical services, more heat, heavier conditioners, heavier oils or pomades are not needed. Often times, I religiously apply Philip Pelusi's Daily Hair Rx Extreme Liquid Repair protein treatment to the hair and apply the appropriate conditioner to the ends of the hair on most of my guest 35 years of age and older. 

One does not need to be a hair stylist or dermatologist to notice the change in one's hair as they age. While thinning and balding typically comes to mind; the integrity of the hair has changed as well. The use of heavy products, flimsy combs, too hot of a styling utensil, excessive pulling and infrequent shampooing are the culprits to unwanted hair loss. It also speed up the process of thinning and balding.  

old school  - Goody Combs

In addition to using more quality protein (I swear by Philip Pelusi's Daily Hair Rx Liquid Protein Spray. It is the best), I also change the temperature on the heated styling tools I use, considering their hair is getting thinner. I also change the combs I use. I make sure I only use quality combs and brushes. For a comb/brush is to your hair what a toothbrush is to your teeth or a broom to the floor. And well all know the poor value of a bad tooth brush and broom; both won't clean a thing. 

New School - Krest Combs

In conclusion, I am not suggesting to totally disregard the tried and true methods of hair care when you were younger; but when it comes to truly achieving nice hair that you could be proud to wear, keep in mind the above mentioned points. Keep your hair clean (even if you just wash and wear or put it in a pony tail). Shampoo at least 1-2 times per week. Do not be so quick to try what is NEW on the market. And the next time you hear someone talk about their hair care from what they use to do in the past, have them visit my blog and say to them, "Awe, grow up!"