Good News; Bad News

Remember this!

Providing hair care to thousands of women is very interesting. As a licensed cosmetologist, I am very deliberate in setting the tone with each and every woman, teen, child and male I encounter. The tone I am setting is that I am a cosmetologist who cares. I am a cosmetologist who does not want you to be a slave to the hair salon. I am cosmetologist who wants you to know how to care for your hair and I am just the cosmetologist to teach you.

In setting that tone, most people are excited! I often hear, "I have never met a cosmetologist who teaches you how to do your own hair."  For every person I meet who is excited about learning how to care for their hair, I meet meet three times as many who are not. Believe it or not, in this day in time there remains a large portion of women who do not want to have anything to do with their hair; let alone style it. Well, for those of you who are all too familiar about hating to do your hair, "I have some good news and I have some bad news."

As always, since this is a Blog Ndogo, I have to got to make it short and get straight to the point. Would you like the good news first or the bad news? Bad news it is! The bad news is, there is no such thing as care free hair. All hair (locked, twist, natural, long, short, fade, Jheri curl, finger waves, weaves and so on) requires some form of care and maintenance. "Awe man," you say?  My goal in writing this blog today it to debunk this international misnomer that hair care can be care free. To do so, I have to back it with facts. So here goes it.

Product build up leaves white
scaly flakes on scalp and
hair.

Though you may not agree; I must reiterate, Hair care cannot be care free. The question of why and a barrage of "what if" scenarios comes flowing to me. Let me stop you right there with the honest reason why hair care can not be "none." Because hair is skin. And skin has to be cleansed properly with the right cleansing agent for a specific hair type on a regular basis. There that ends the bad news.

Now the good news. The good news about hair care is that inasmuch as it has to be cared for on regular basis with the right products for your unique hair fabric; it can be done so in more ways than I can type in this blog. Hair care fall under hygiene. Hygiene such as brushing your teeth, washing your arm pits, washing other body parts and so. The body has seven orifices (openings) that are self cleansing. The seven orifices are: eyes, ears, nose, mouth, navel, vagina, buttocks and skin which has follicles (those little tiny holes that every hair on your body grows out of). More good news is that we all know what comes out of those orifices and happens when any of them are not cleansed regularly with the right cleansing agent. Need I type more? Of course not! Can we all say, "ewe!"

This how the scalp looks from Co-Washing and infrequent
shampooing. Do not do this to your scalp. This is why hair looks
dull and unhealthy.

I invite anyone reading this blog to either change their mindset that hair style is hair care or lose their hair.  In reality, hair needs to be cared for in order to style it. Any hair stylist, cosmetologist or natural hair care guru who is deliberate in removing you from the equation of caring for your or is encouraging you not cleanse it with shampoo and is encouraging you to replace your shampoo with conditioner to co-wash is wrong. Any hair stylist , cosmetologist or natural hair care guru who tells you or leads you to believe that shampooing your hair every two weeks or longer is ok; is wrong.

More good news?  Licensed cosmetologists and natural hair care gurus all know that hair thins as we age. They also know that as we age; their hair care regimen needs to change with aging. They also know exactly what happens to hair when it is over soften with conditioners, moisturizers, salves, balms and pomades. Every licensed professional and natural hair care guru knows that the above mentioned hair care practices all do one thing; PROMOTE PRE-MATURE HAIR LOSS and DAMAGE.

Find the right product for your
hair type.

Because the good news only gets better and I have to keep this blog short, I can end with three popular simple solutions if you have been traveling down the quick path to hair loss by not shampooing regularly or have been shampooing it with the wrong products. The first thing to do is go ahead on and accept the fact that you have to cleanse your scalp and hair on regular basis (at least 1-2 times per week). Second, select a shampoo that is for your scalp and hair type. If you do not know ask your stylist. A simple strand test can be done by taking on strand of hair and tug on it. If it snaps quick; it is thin. If it takes a little while to snap; it is medium. And if it never snaps; it is coarse. From there that is how you select the right shampoo and make your purchase. Third and last, be sure the shampoo reads that it cleanses your scalp too. If it reads it only cleanses your hair then that is all it will clean. 

When it comes to the matter of scalp disorders such as dandruff, psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, dermatitis and the like; please go see a dermatologist. Do not allow your hair stylist or natural hair care guru play doctor on your scalp. Doing so almost always results in worsening the scalp disorder. Your grand mother can not diagnose your dandruff and your hair stylist can not treat it.

Some simple solutions to rid your scalp and hair of build up from infrequent shampooing are:

• Making a mixture of lemon juice and water and misting that on to your hair. Let it sit for about 5-15 minutes and shampoo.
• Add about a teaspoon of baking soda to your shampoo, rinse and follow with your favorite conditioner.
• Mix one part apple cider vinegar to 4 parts water and mist on your hair before you shampoo. Let it sit for 5-15 minutes and shampoo off. Or you can mist it on your hair after you condition it to soften, detangle and add shine to your hair. 

Hair care takes patience and time.

Good news; bad news. Hair care takes time. There is no quick way to hygiene. The body makes waste and emits it through those seven openings. Just as you would brush your teeth after eating something that is gritty or foul in odor; and just as you would wash your arm pits the moment you smell musk; the same prompt response must be made for hair. And just as you know the benefits of washing and caring for those other orifices; understand you will get the exact same results when you give your scalp and hair the same attention and response the moment you noticed it was not clean and smelling fresh. Can we say, relief!

Do the right thing and develop a hair care regimen just as you do for brushing your teeth, bathing, cleaning ears and so on so you can reap the benefits of truly having clean healthy hair.

How's that for good news; bad news?

Awe, Grow Up!

As you grow and change, so should your hair care regimen.

My job as a cosmetologist is not limited to "doing" hair. As a matter of fact, I have a mantra that I say to those who are in the business of shotty hair care, "If you wanna "DO" hair, then get a mannequin!" 

It is in my professional opinion that when a person sits in the styling chair, they are not merely looking for a hair "do." In my opinion, they are looking for trust, honesty, creativity and flexibility which results in a great hair "do". I understand that in the end, nice looking hair is what they want. But let us address what it really takes for hair to look nice. 

First things first, in order to have hair that looks nice, the hair itself must be what? Nice! Nice hair starts at HOME. I will re-type this. Nice hair starts at home. You know, like your health! Before I ask a new customer how would they like for me to style their hair, I always ask, what is their level of commitment to their hair style when they go home. "What did you just say?" Is ALWAYS the response. Then, almost everyone always start their response off with:

• "Back in the day my hair was..."
• "When I was younger my hair use to be..."
• "I had good hair until ..."
• "My hair use to be really long until..."
• "My old hair stylist would make my hair do..."

To me when a person pays any amount of money for a hair style they are making an investment in themselves. You know like a IRA. Therefore, I always take the time to listen and allow them to tell their "use to be" hair story. Why? Honestly, there are many women who are emotionally and financially traumatized by salon experiences. Their image has been compromised by a bad hair style; be it hair color, hair weave or the actual hair style itself. In addition, there are a large number of women who are left feeling bitter about the price of the hair style as well. Therefore, it is imperative that I listen. It is my goal to teach them what it realistically takes to achieve NICE hair. In order for me to teach them effectively, I have to hear and see (yes, I actually have them show me what they do to their hair at home) what they are doing to their hair so that I may correct anything that they are doing that is counter productive to them having nice hair.

The World's Bestest Protein ever!

So, I understand the "when I was younger" premise, but what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that as you age you change. Your hair care regimen should change as you age. The regimen should not only change at the salon, but it should also change at home. Also, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that "aging" hair is not limited to your chronological age, but environmental stressors such as sun rays, curling irons, braiding twisting, flipping, foods, medicines and so on ages hair as well. If you were in the habit of shampooing your hair bi-weekly when you were in your twenties and thirties; you should NOT be doing the same in your forties and fifties. The life expectancy of one strand of hair is 7 years. Each and every hair on your body grows out of its own hole called a follicle. All hair follicles do not grow at the same time like dog hairs do. That explains why some strands of hair are shorter than others. In addition to the hairs on your head (and body) growing at different rates, they also get thinner as we get older. Because your hair gets thinner as you age, the need for chemical services, more heat, heavier conditioners, heavier oils or pomades are not needed. Often times, I religiously apply Philip Pelusi's Daily Hair Rx Extreme Liquid Repair protein treatment to the hair and apply the appropriate conditioner to the ends of the hair on most of my guest 35 years of age and older. 

One does not need to be a hair stylist or dermatologist to notice the change in one's hair as they age. While thinning and balding typically comes to mind; the integrity of the hair has changed as well. The use of heavy products, flimsy combs, too hot of a styling utensil, excessive pulling and infrequent shampooing are the culprits to unwanted hair loss. It also speed up the process of thinning and balding.  

old school  - Goody Combs

In addition to using more quality protein (I swear by Philip Pelusi's Daily Hair Rx Liquid Protein Spray. It is the best), I also change the temperature on the heated styling tools I use, considering their hair is getting thinner. I also change the combs I use. I make sure I only use quality combs and brushes. For a comb/brush is to your hair what a toothbrush is to your teeth or a broom to the floor. And well all know the poor value of a bad tooth brush and broom; both won't clean a thing. 

New School - Krest Combs

In conclusion, I am not suggesting to totally disregard the tried and true methods of hair care when you were younger; but when it comes to truly achieving nice hair that you could be proud to wear, keep in mind the above mentioned points. Keep your hair clean (even if you just wash and wear or put it in a pony tail). Shampoo at least 1-2 times per week. Do not be so quick to try what is NEW on the market. And the next time you hear someone talk about their hair care from what they use to do in the past, have them visit my blog and say to them, "Awe, grow up!"

That's Played Out (Part 1)!

The maximum absorption rate for hair to reap the benefits of a
hair conditioning treatment or hair conditioner is 1-20
minutes!

In my opinion, the social life of a cosmetologist is similar to a celebrity who goes out into the public and they are overwhelmed with questions about their last movie, television appearance or last music performance. Most times when we go out to dinner with a group of friends or to a party and we are introduced as a hairstylist the conversation, like those with celebrities, immediately turns to hair care. And like a celebrity who gets asked the same questions about their most popular performance, us hairstylists gets asked the same questions about the most hated service in the hair salon....drum roll please; THE GAWD AWFUL HAIR DRYER!

Every body and their great grand ma wants to know why do hair stylists put people under the dryer for a long time when getting a hair conditioning service only for the hair stylists to leave them, forget about them, go have lunch, talk on the phone, run errands, go to the beauty supply store, order products from the distributor right in their face, argue with their significant other, pay their bills, fuss at their children, get on Facebook, scroll Instagram, Tweet or text sweet nothings to their boo thang all while their paying customer sits under THE GAWD AWFUL HAIR DRYER!

Again, this is my Blog Nodogo and Ndogo is Swahili for small, therefore, I have to be brief. This Blog Ndogo will be a two part series.  First things first. When ever I am inundated with this question by the hundreds of people I meet at any type of gathering or party, I always respond in Kurtis Blow voice, "Hold up, hold up, hold up; that's played out!" If y'all old enough, y'all know the rest....LOL

I did some extensive research on this heated topic and let me tell you, there are many of school of thought on this topic. So to the point, readers were calling writers stupid and writers were calling readers stupid. To access this information on Google Scholar was like trying to get into Fort Knox (not happening dude)! So, I am not going to call my readers stupid and while I can not get into Fort Knox, I do know a thing or two and about three chemists to help me help my readers. So here goes it...

The reason sitting under a heated dryer is played out is because of this fancy word called NANO TECHNOLOGY or molecular weight. When it comes to hair care products, I have wrote and taught over one hundred times that the cost and quality of a product is strictly determined by what goes into it and the packaging. So, nano technology speaks to the quality of ingredient used to make the product do what the manufacturer thinks its customers are looking for. 

These molecules are so tiny they can actually penetrate that
very thin strand of hair. Can your egg do that? NOPE

If a customer wants a product that works quick, will not weigh her hair down and is priced within reason; then it is going to take three things. Those three things are very very tiny molecules (hence nano technology), a trained, skilled & certified hair stylist and of course MONEY. Cheaper, out dated products, eggs and mayonaise do not have the technology to penetrate the hair, repair it and wash away with out leaving the hair over processed and you sitting under the dryer for a long time. Why? Because their molecules are too large.

If a hair stylist is using hair care products that calls for sitting under the dryer for 20 to 30 minutes, it only means the molecules are larger and will take much longer to penetrate the cuticle to work. It does not mean the ingredients in the products are not working. They are working different on a molecular level. Which explains why those old school treatment takes a long time and may cost more money (yes you will have to pay that stylist for their time, even if you sit). If the product instructs the hair stylist to leave on the hair for 1-3 minutes or 3-5 minutes BINGO, it's on and crack-a-lackin! That means the molecular weight is very very tiny, the molecules can go directly to the section of the strand of hair that is damaged while the rest rinses down the drain and over processed hair is NOT the result. 

Cationic (ionic) molecule that can attract oil and dirt. It can penetrate the
cuticle layer of hair without DAMAGING it or WEIGHING it down...BAM!

Now, I know for some this will be good news and others will remain wedded to what they have been doing. Of course that is perfectly fine. Typewriters are hard to find, but people still use them. The mantra for the salon, The Reverence Design Team, where I work is "experience the science of hair care." We truly personify that mantra. We only use products with the latest technology. We are all trained and certified by the hair care companies who has this kind of of innovative, unique and affordable technology in their products. While I am all in favor of "Me Time," I also understand that "me time" is not isolated to hours in the hair salon. Their is a paradigm shift in hair care where women want to know what is being use on their hair. They also want it in a timely fashion. Using outdated products and practices will not damage hair in any capacity. A hair stylist who refuses to follow the manufacturers instructions, will.  What it will do is take longer and cost more money. 

Good news; in this case, new school trumps old school. Bad news, sitting under a hair dryer past 10 minutes in this day and time is played out.

In my Kurtis Blow voice, "Dontcha give me all that jive, about things you wrote before I's alive..." And that concludes part one of "That's Played Out."