Protective Hairstyling

Protection?

Let me get this right, first there was a re-introduction to alternative hair styling when the most coveted outspoken Change Agent Extraordinaire, my shero sister Taliah Waajid stepped in on the hair care and hair styling scene back in the late 90's. She enlightened and collaborated with the masses in ways no one could imagine on natural, loc and twist hair styling to name a few. Shortly afterwards, Dr. JoAnne Cornwell, owner and inventor of Sisterlocks blew the California courts and state board of cosmetology out of the water when she won her unprecedented law suit for her patented "I will sue the french toast outta you if you use my technique without my permission" Sisterlocks. (I love this country!) Then the Africans entered the industry without a license and began making a lot of money to add hair and braid it because American hair stylists frowned upon and refused to do the ancient practice of cornrow braiding and adding hair. I even joined the Ohio State Board to stop them; only to find out the Ohio State Board never even taught cornrow braiding or adding hair extensions in the first place. SMH, go figure. 

Change Agent Extraordinaire

Then came the infamous now "all of a sudden" hairline snatching edge puller outer with that Naomi Campbell picture popping up everywhere, lace front wigs. Next up, the "creamy crack." And yet another comedian, Chris Rock, puts the smack down on hair styling. This time, it is the once popular salon chemical service for textured hair called, "the relaxer." Just as Eddie Murphy did the Jheri curl in "Coming to America," Chris Rock did it to weaves and the relaxer. That documentary exposed the masses to how just about every textured hair woman of color went running across the globe, clicking onto every website and going to every corner store in America and even putting it in the layaway to get the famed "bulk" of exotic "Good Hair" weave...roflmbao. To stay on course, what do you think followed next? The "transitioning of hair" games began. That is right my fellow hair care junkie readers, women around the world ditched their chemically overprocessed tresses for the "no price is to high" natural hair. I don't get it. It grows from the scalp for free; yet "natural" hair care product manufacturers are generating more money than chemical relaxers and hair weave makers could ever dream of.  Now, I type this blog on yet another hair craze. Another hair craze that is unfortunately, again, only targeted to women with textured hair with emphasis on women of color; protective hair styling. "Ayeeeeee," I say as I pull out my hair! Black people. My people. Why?

Funny thing, as I was doing some research on protective hair styles, I decided to look up the definition of "protective." The dictionary defines protective as "giving or capable of giving protection." 

Yet when you use the word "protective" with hair styling, many translate that into not doing anything to hair to protect it from grooming. When I first entered the profession of cosmetology there was a big to do on hair styling. I mean women were really into getting their hair coiffured. From curls, waves, up-do's, spikes, flips and the whole nine yards. Then the introduction of computers and the internet changed the way women viewed themselves. How? Well it gave them a glimpse into beauty and hair care from around the world and behind the scenes. The computer and the internet did things licensed hair stylists would not do. Communicate. 

The reality of what others were doing, not doing, saying and not saying world wide angered, disappointed and for many liberated them from hair styling. However, you know how the cliche' goes, "if it sounds too good to be true; it usually is." Best believe there are a plentiful of "it's" in hair care. The biggest "it" in hair care today is the misrepresentation of hair care. 

In no other profession do I see such a vast amount of "jumping on the wagon" like I see in hair care. In other professions, honesty is the best policy. For example, let us examine the medical field. While most doctors are not exercise physiologists; they do agree that the safest and most effective ways to lose weight is to either eat less, exercise more or do both. While there are doctors who prescribe pills and surgeons who perform surgeries to aid in the process for those who may be a tad bit more challenged than others; the representation of the truth in the battle of the bulge is honesty. There is a consensus among all interested and concerned that coupling balanced nutrition with routine fitness is best. 

In the profession of cosmetology that is not the case. There remains no consensus in the caring of hair. Even though trail blazers like Madame CJ Walker, Taliah Wajiid and Dr. JoAnne Cornwell has dedicated their lives to promoting hair care to those of any race with textured hair to do; many do not. Take the case of the latest crazy phenomenon sweeping the industry; "protective hair styling." Bewilderment is the first word that comes to mind. I mean they are hashtagging this stuff. Make no mistake, there are some hair styling techniques that obviously compromise hair. But we are not talking damaged hair, we are talking hair care. Hair care is "doing" something to your hair in a timely organized fashioned to ensure that it at least clean and groomed. Can that be a consensus that we all agree upon? Everything else in between, we're just gonna call it, extra. To care for hair is to protect hair. 

There are not to many of hair styles that require no or very little maintenance. The only two I can think of are braids and perms (Jheri curls and Ogilvie)! And in those two hair styles if you do not care for them in a timely fashion, permanent hair damage or hair loss is almost always the result. 

So what are folk to do? Make the time to take the time to care for your hair. While some people can do no more than brush their hair because they are hair care and style challenged.  Others can care for their hair and style their hair better than a licensed hair stylist. What ever the case, you have to find a happy medium.  A hair care regimen is equally as important as caring for your teeth and other body parts (if ya know what I mean). Do not be duped by these self taught, angry and unscrupulous hustling money seeking individuals who are not taking into consideration two very important factors. The first factor is, no two heads of hair are alike. The second important factor; they do not wake up with you in the morning. I do like the advantage of clicking a button to get a glimpse at "how to do" something to hair. However, the generic cookie cutter promotion of "black hair care" and "textured hair care" is crazy. You can watch any video you want. It is still not your hair. And your hair is different from who is in that video, on that picture and in your blood lines. You have to be involved with your hair.

How many times are you gonna fall for the lies?

Take it from a person who works behind the chair, writes books and blogs on  hair care, teaching hair care, travels the nation teaching women how to do it themselves (yep, I'm about that life) and one who does her own hair daily. I can tell you that if you opt to chose a "protective hair style" that keeps you from doing anything to your hair for more than two weeks; oh boy. Your hair will be compromised. The vicious cycle is on. Understand your hair is growing from an organ called a follicle every day all day. Yes every single strand of hair on your body has its own organ. While I will not type it again, feel free to re-read that sentence again. And can you think of any other organ or opening on your body that you would not tend to in some fashion for two weeks and it be "healthier" from not tending to it for over one week all in the spirit of "PROTECTION?" 

There is no bond like the one between
child and caregiver. None.

It is air apparent that these fads and trends are only targeted to Black people. Black people who hate their hair. Black people who do not want to wash their hair. Black people who do not make time to do their own chidlren's hair. Black people who are looking for something quick in hair care. These companies are making and marketing products to any and every Black consumer who fits that profile. In other races; their norms, practices and folkways is caring for their hair themselves. So they do not manufacture and market those kinds of products to them. They are not trying to escape the obvious...self love. Though every family, regardless of race have their own customs of hair care. In the history of hair care in Africa, hair care and styling was a ritual of bonding between daughter and mother, daughter and caregiver or the young and elder. It was a an esteemed privilege to be able "to do" someone's hair especially within the family. Also for the record, no where in the history of beautification in Africa is not doing your own hair documented as some sort of dignity. 

There is nothing "African" about not caring for hair your own hair. There is nothing "African" about not cleansing hair for weeks at a time.

For many reading this, that may come across as a bit harsh. It is. The human body. of any race or sex, in all its splendor: functions better, serves its purpose, smells awfully nice and looks damn good when we consistently and properly protect it by caring for it.

Amani.


Princess wave...

White Girl Hair

Erase racism. 

Can you believe during this day and time racial turmoil continues to be one of the greatest social ills world wide? You can not help but to wonder, why is the complexion and color of someone's skin really getting certain folk all in a tizzy? After all, at the end of the day we are all humans of some sorts. 

When one thinks of racism, the stereotypical images that comes to mind are those black and white images from the 50's and 60's where there were signs everywhere that read, "No Coloreds Allowed," "For Whites Only," or water hose and dogs attacking protesters and the likes. Some other stereotypical images are those of Black men being beaten and choked by White police officers, or Black people beating up on white people, or when certain people look at people with slanted eyes and dark hair and call them all Chinese. As if only three color hues exists. If one was to turn on the tv, pick up a magazine or newspaper, unfortunately it would b easy to conclude that racism is here to stay; at least for a while. But, we can change that. 

In the beauty industry, the theories of genotypes of race are constantly being challenged. If by nothing but the varying textures we see on people's hair from varying ethnicities and races world wide. Yet, the number one question that comes to most people's mind when they see someone whose image does not fit their opinion of how that person should look is.."What ethnicity or race are you?" No two things evoke the mind to wonder such a question than skin color and HAIR. For the record the difference between the ethnicity and race is; ethnicity is about tradition, learned behaviors and customs.  It is about learning where you come from and celebrating the traditions and ideas that are part of that region. While race is defined as as your biologically engineered features. Race is also an indication of the heritage with which you were born, regardless of location or learned behavior. At least that is what two people's version of the definition is today.

The world does not look like this.

As a licensed cosmetologist, I have to admit, nothing curdles my blood than segregation in hair care. I can not find the words to type about the hair atrocities I see in hair like I see standing behind the chair every day for 16 hours. I mean, the affects are way beyond financial, physical, emotional. The hair atrocities eat at the core of a person's existence. Yes, it is that deep. So these are the people I've dedicated my life to serving. I was so unnerved by this, I decided to get to the bottom of this. I came up with my version of a solution to end this madness of fighting with texture regardless of your race, ethnicity and socioeconomic background. I was quick to conclude that dirty hair, the wrong comb, not combing hair enough or at all and using the wrong; yet inferior hair care products were the culprits. 

Mr. Philip Pelusi, teaches and promotes, results
beyond the salon!

I figured I could easily do something about the dirty hair part, so I solicited the help of the great hair care extraordinaire, Philip Pelusi out of Pittsburgh, PA to help me. Beyond help is what he did. As I result, I tell every hair stylist I meet and every customer I service, "If you do not have use anything on your hair at least get one product by him to incorporate into your hair care." Yes, he is that much of the truth. He has the education, history, knowledge of application, hair salons and products to prove it. As for the combs, I've dedicated a portion of my own income to give them away for FREE to every person who enters the salon where I work at, The Reverence Design Team, and teach them how to use them via a free scalp and hair consultation. 

As for the inferior hair care products, well that blew my mind. To make a long blog short, what I did was sign up for a virtual conference on hair care ingredients put on by my homies over at the cosmeticsdesigns.com (a.k.a The Pink Papers). This virtual conference was virtually attended and represented by the chemists who actually makes the ingredients to sale to the hair care companies to manufacture for us to use on our hair at home or in the salon. Most impressive beyond words, I must say. So there I sit with my mouse and webcam going from workshop to workshop learning about how all this hair science comes to fruition in my hands and onto my customers hair. The question I am seeking to ask is, "Why the term ethnic hair?" and "Why is it made with such crappy ingredients?" Finally, I virtually enter a workshop on marketing and ask my question. The response crushed me. From my webcam, I could hear the distinguished Nobel Prize nominee, "Vell Ms. Wright, the simple fact that you are the only person from your entire industry, race and sex who is attending this virtual conference further validates our research.I must admit, I am impressed by your tenacity to further educate yourself to help your customers more." So, I click onto my camera and ask as proper as I could with anticipation, "What does your research reveal?" She responds in her thick accent, "Our research reveals, that the consumer has removed licensed beauty professionals from the equation of hair care..." I was crushed. I do not know what she said after that to answer my two questions. It was as if her voice faded off into the abyss of deafness. I heard nothing. The sound was mute and the computer monitor went black.I was devastated. I was embarrassed. I was lost. As loquacious as I am; for the 999th time, I again found myself lost for words. 

Accepting no offers in advertisement, these people
deliver!

Meanwhile, back at the salon behind the chair, I had to give in to the reality that her statement was so surreal; yet it was real. Segregation in hair care is real. There, I typed it. Just as much as the color of one's skin and hair texture often leads people of color to being treated differently at the polls, within the justice system, their places of employment or treated differently at school; unfortunately the hair salon is not exempt from on of those places. Just as Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. said in his speech, "I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the color of their skin, but by the content of their character." The same excerpt from his famous impacting speech can be applied to, of all places, the beauty salon. I too have a dream that my four little customers will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the texture of their hair, but by the content of the licensed professionals education and character to service them regardless of their hair texture and race. Because the educator from the virtual conference pointed out how licensed hair stylists are removed from the equation of hair care, one can see how "white girl hair" remains a overt and covert thought processes for many who do hair. One can see how people who host "meet ups" about hair care with and without licensed professionals. One can see how the masses are turning to YOUTUBE. One can see how hair care companies are clicking to YOUTUBE looking for their next spokesperson.One can see why people continue to do hair at home and promote it on Instagram. One can see that perhaps her statement has merit.

Yep, beauty certain hair salons across the nation can go for a crash course of eliminating race and ethnicity and incorporating caring for textured hair as effectively as "white girl hair" when it comes to providing hair care service to the public. Just as the medical field has no race requirement to utilize the tools, implements and equipment to service the patients; neither should a hair salon. Just as a chef has no race requirement to utilize their education in culinary to prepare, cook and serve food; neither should a licensed beauty profession. 

The problem with a large portion of hair salons in America is that many licensed professionals see textured hair and run to the calculator or to the boarder. In America, how many licensed Caucasian hair stylists do we know can cornrow hair or press hair using a straightening comb? How many licensed Negro hair stylists do we know can cut an Afro or press hair using a straightening comb? How many licensed Mongoloid hair stylists do we know can loc hair or use press hair using a straightening comb?  You see, across the nation, most Americans at large truly believe that when one goes to cosmetology school; passes and when one goes to state board and passes that to some level they are proficient to some degree at caring for and styling all hair types. Wrong. That my fellow Americans, you are so very wrong. Many Americans think that licensed professionals are taught or at least introduced to the concept of many hair styling practices for all textured hair but choose to their own are of specialty after becoming licensed. Wrong again. 

Things that make you go, hmm.

For the record, across the United States the ability to do hair, skin and nails is not a requirement to become and obtain a licensed beauty professional. Sad, but true. Here in the United States, becoming a licensed beauty professional is about following the laws each state has designated to open and conduct business with one's cosmetology license. In addition, the practice of public safety and sanitation are also requirements. But do you have to actually know how to cut hair, roll hair, comb hair, press, cornrow, loc hair, demonstrate that you know how to discern when and not when to relax hair and formulate hair color? No. We are introduced, taught and tested at school by what is in our cosmetology book; but we do not have to prove that we know how to do any of it. When we go to the state board (and yes there is such a physical location) to take the test, we are tested via questions on the content of the one book, Milady's Standards in Cosmetology. Strange as it may seem. Believe it or not, every cosmetology school across the nation uses the same book. Also, we are then tested on our ability to follow a series of generic instructions that most companies in the areas of chemical services for hair, skin and nails have outlined for us to follow behind the chair in the salon. The proctor at the testing site actually stands next to us to see if we know how to apply it via a demonstration. Not with the actual chemical, but a conditioner...smh. We do not even have to bring in a real human to cut hair. No, we can use a mannequin. They do not even entertain to include if a person is deaf, with disability or anything. As if a person in a wheelchair does not want their hair styled. But the laws of every state says we do have to accommodate them. Though they do not teach us anything about how a wheelchair functions or the etiquette of servicing a blind or deaf person. Any extra education and training a licensed beauty professional has outside of what the state has tested us on, is on the individual licensee and salon owner. And of course the salon owner, need not have any knowledge or a license in cosmetology. 

The varying state boards across the nations has no legal authority to oversee if what the person is doing behind the chair is appropriate when they come to the salon to inspect us. There is no such board to report a bad hair, skin and nail service to; unlike the medical, mental health and culinary fields. When the state board inspector comes to inspect a salon they are only looking for three things. The first is to make sure our license to do hair is active. The second is to make sure we are practicing public safety and sanitation by making sure the salon, our drawers and implements our clean. The third is to make sure we are following the laws outlined by the state to be in business. As simple as those three key inspection points are, that is not to say that there are no qualified beauty professionals and salons who can effectively, with care, can provide hair, skin and nail service to someone regardless of the color of their skin and hair texture. Unfortunately it is the case for the majority and is of concern to the public at large. I also know that just because someone is a licensed doctor that makes them exempt from not being able to provide medical services to a patient based on their skin color; because we have know that it happens in there too. 

One book for an entire nation?

The beauty industry is terribly segregated. No one wants to blog about it. No one wants to report about it. No one wants address it. But, I am. The beauty industry pretends that it is not segregated. It simply promotes images of the so called "talented tenths" who can do "all" types of hair texture. Yes in the beauty industry, if some one can do straight, wavy, curly, kinky and the esteemed Afro hair; they are the shit. I mean, the simple fact that we have displays of overt racism with varying designated "ethnic" aisles speaks, in volumes. When a beauty professional has to quantify how she/he can do "both" or "all" races, speaks in volumes. When the media (print and TV) glorifies the Black beauty professional for doing the hair of White celebrities and vice versa, that too speaks in volumes. 

Listen up America, something is terribly wrong when with the education of cosmetology when again, every school of cosmetology teaches from the same book, written by the same curriculum writers. No where in the education of American in any education or vocation are all students across the nation are taught from the same book by the same author. There is something terribly wrong when we live in a country that is touted as the "melting pot" that the mannequins we practice on ALL  have straight "white girl hair." As if the other textures do not want to be reversed, cut and altered of some sorts. Something is terribly wrong, when we are taught to blow dry, perm, relax and color; but we are not taught to cornrow, twist and loc hair. Something is terribly wrong when we go to the state to petition for a law that requires all who practice any form of beauty service be licensed too. After all, it is a requirement of the state, right?  But then, those places are allowed to remain unlicensed in business because the schools never taught cornrow, twisting, locking, threading, sugaring and the likes in the first place. Yep, that's another thing. The state only becomes interested in the varying ethnic beauty practices that are introduced to the world from the varying ethnic people when they come to this country and share them with the masses. Then the powers that be wants to get in on some of the action. Unfortunately, they are a tad bit too late. They are too late because they have no research, no history and absolutely no understanding of the practices of beauty world wide that can be applied and monitored by any governing body here in the good old U.S of A. 

Okay now.

So what do I have to say about all this "white girl hair" stuff? My resolve to this. Buyer beware. Beware of licensed beauty professionals who are just that; licensed. Buyer beware of self taught beauty professionals who operate primarily from self taught education. Buyer beware of angry and fed up self taught people who do it out of their home. Buyer beware of social network professionals who are great at collaborating with photographers, web designers, graphic designers, clothing designers and everyone in between who look very "like" in your phone to gain popularity and notoriety versus credibility. I say buyer beware of all those beauty professional who all of a sudden are into "natural hair care" and sustainability when they had the option to do so way before you got fed up with what you knew they were never doing behind the chair in first place. You know as if organic and natural is new. Buyer be aware that you have the power.

Inasmuch as natural hair care is booming, chemical services are down, sustainability/eco- friendly is of great concern and the public is demanding more from licensed professionals; folk still do not know what they are doing when it comes to textured hair. Rather they are licensed or not. Black, white, green, purple; curly, kinky wavy or straight; many people simply have no clue of what they are doing let alone seeing. And just as you would have guessed, some states have decided to do away with cosmetology licensing all together. I am sure that other states will follow in the not so near future; but it will happen. 

Standard Beauty School Kit...smh

There still remains places in rural America and urban metropolis' with their re-gentrification processes and diverse populations of gays, Blacks, Whites, Latinos, adoptions, persons with disabilities, employed and unemployed have salons who can not and do not know how to care for and style textured hair but they do know "white girl hair."

. 

Sulfate Free Shampoos

Shampooing, the key to a great hair style, Shampooing, the secret to great hair color. Shampooing, the essential of healthy hair. Shampooing, one of the best ways to the clean scalp. Shampooing, one of the most popular reasons one visits a hair salon!

For as great as shampooing is, it remains the most misunderstood and misinterpreted step in the effort clean hair to promote the health and beauty of it. In addition to be being misunderstood and misinterpreted, it is also mostly done incorrectly.

The key to understanding what makes shampooing so magnificent to know the true meaning of the word. As a licensed cosmetologist, shampooing is the once service I value and takes seriously over any and everything I do at work. As a matter of fact, when it comes to shampooing hair, I'm like Erykah Badu, "I'm an artist and I'm serious about my shit."  Once you understand the history behind this very vital process to hygiene and to clean hair; the importance shampooing regularly, properly with the correct products will resonate with your innate ability to adorn yourself.  You will also understand how hair that is shampooed properly with the correct products for your scalp and hair type/texture will result in healthy hair that looks and feel great.

So let me take you to the beginning of how it all got started way back when. Believe it or not the ritual or practice of shampooing is not nearly as old as people think. In the beginning of time, yeah I'm talking way back in those B.C and A.D days; shampooing was not the thing to do. Of course the lack of running water and exactly what to use to clean the scalp and hair was something of an enigma, so humans were busy being hunters, gatherers and trying to figure out how to survive in the elements. Clean bodies and hair was not priority one. In addition, to not being priority one, the enigma around how to clean the scalp and hair was a result of not understanding what was exactly coming from the scalp. When the varying hair textures (curly, kinky, wavy, Afro and woolen) was added to the equation; the etching into the stones stopped there. What was coming from the scalp and how to clean those strange and coiled fibers was enough to confuse the greatest philosophers of the day. Not even Confcius, Plato and all them other great thinkers could figure out the great mystery of how to clean hair especially if it had texture growing from the scalp. No sir-ree. They could pontificate the meaning of life till the constellations mapped out every zodiac, hours, days and years; but how to clean the scalp and the varying hair textures that grew from it was out of the question. Nobody wanted to be bothered with that. So "off with the hair," was the most popular resolve. While the ancient hyroglifics, papyrus' and other artifacts depict people using animal fats and essentials to clean the scalp and hair; they also depicted those methods were not best.

So what was one do? Surely, there were many of people who were not for having their cut off simply because they could not figure out how to clean it properly. For the most part soaps, salves, balms and essential oils were leaving the hair feeling very pasty, coated and hard. The practice of using those methods also left a magnificent breeding ground for micro organisms such as lice to grow, multiply and wreak all kinds of diseased havoc on  villages at large. Head lice was running rampant. So again, cutting all the hair off and making wigs just seemed the practical and safe thing to do to say the least. In spite of the all the dirty scummy filmy yeast growing, coated and lice infested and contagious hair; there were masses of people who longed to keep their own hair on their own head.  Hmm, sounds very familiar during this modern day and time, doesn't it? I mean with all the technology we have; how to properly clean the scalp and hair of the varying textures (curly, kinky, wavy, Afro and straight) that grows from the scalp still remains somewhat of a daunting task to do on a regular basis with resolve.

Somewhere along the way, the world was becoming more civilized. The powers that be decided to distinguish themselves from the haves and have nots by incorporating none other than cleanliness. Cleanliness as it relates to clean, slathered, massaged, perfumed and oiled bodies. Cleanliness as in clean hair and hair styles so people could discern who had it and who did not. To bring us to this date and time of now, one of the world's foremost historian's in the area of cleanliness, Virginia Smith author of Clean; A Personal History of Hygiene and Purity writes, "the countdown of modernity began."

Mr. Dean Mahomet, the
"Shampoo Surgeon."

And five, four, three, two, one; introducing a very modern distinguished educated well traveled Indian self made entrepreneur of sorts named, Mr. Dean Mahomet. Not that anybody asked, but don't you think that picture to the left of Mr. Mahomet lends the eye that he was actually a Black man? Oops, I digressed.  Mr. Mahomet was not only was well educated and well traveled, but he also was an author. In his writings he wrote of the many things he observed along the way. And one thing that stood out and caught his attention was a massage technique commonly practiced by the Chinese called, "Champing." Champing was basically a thorough massage that incorporated cleansing. As Mr. Mahomet settled, he decided to use what he observed in Champing and decided to open a Champing House and eatery of sorts. To his dismay and typical of the "White Man" back in those days, the British took over his business and shut him down. Yep, they made Mr. Mohamet a slave or an indentured servant to the wealthy aristocrats. Not be degraded, demoralized and belittled by his unfortunate turn of events; Mr. Mohamet decided to incorporate what he observed in watching the Chinese do with Champing and took his official title of "Washer of People" and changed it to a "Shampooing Surgeon." Yeah boyee! Instead of washing only washing the bodies of those wealthy people who shut down his business and took it; he decided to include washing their hair with washing their bodies and incorporated the fine skills of Champing to give his service more value. And they paid him for it! Well, how bout dem apples?

Somewhere between 1860 and 1898, Mr. Mohamet used the Hindi word Champi (the art of shampooing) instead of the Chinese word Champing. Later the words were translated into what we now call shampooing. American English, ya gotta love it...smh. So as you can see, shampooing was never meant to be taken lightly. Due to the intricacies of what the body naturally emits via the scalp and the varying textures of hair that grows from the scalp, Mr. Mahomet felt it necessary to pay to clean the scalp and hair just as meticulously and if not frequently as you would your other body parts. To have it reduced to something as casual as wiping your mouth after some mayonnaise has dripped on the side of your mouth behooves those of us who work in the Cosmetology industry daily. For we are the professionals who have dedicated our entire careers to ensuring that you have a thoroughly clean scalp and hair in order to make it grow, be colored, shine, flow, braid, curl, crimp, set, perm, twist, weave and loc it. In addition, our shampooing talents also lend credibility to the knowledge and skill set to do so.

Moving right along to some time in 1908, Virginia Smith also wrote how the New York Times did an exclusive article on this new phenomena called shampooing was popping up all over the world. Via a host of interviews from hair dressers world wide; the New York Times reported how it was unanimous by all the hair dressers they interviewed that having your hair shampooed by someone every two weeks at night was best. The reasons being simple; plumbing.

Now we are counting up from 1908. From a Indian (who looks strikingly like a Black man...lol) named Dean Mahomet to one of my favorites in formulating shampoo, Hans Schwarzkopf. Schwarzkopf, (German for Black head and their logo) a German pharmacist pioneered hair shampoo. He went on to invent hair spray, perms and hair mousse. Voila, we are in the now and here we sit reading something called a blog on the continuing phenomena and enigma of still; how to clean hair. This time around animal fats, perfume, oils, salves and balms are not the concern. Nope it's, sulfates.

Just when we thought we had arrived with the invention and development of Shampoo. Someone comes along and says, "off with their hair" again because soaps had moved from being derived from animal fats to being derived from vegetable oils hence Castile soaps that were exclusively made in the region of Castile in Spain where all them olives grew! From Castile pure and safe cleansers came lye soap bars which some has sulfates in them in which many feel are now bad for hair and skin. Sulfates have been working their magic on dirt for over two hundred years. Because diseases from not being clean were killing troops more than guns back in 1858, the United States Army enlisted the sulfate soldiers from Proctor and Gamble and bought over one million bars of Ivory bar from P&G to get the troops to wash up and clean up their acts to fight the war and not dirt. So again, how did we get here, to the dangers of sulfates? 

Sulfates, sulfates frustrates. Consumers started complaining about the dryness of the soaps. While pure Castile soas and lye were the most popular ingredients back then, sulfates were introduced. So exactly what are sulfates? To keep it simple and take out all the fancy cool scientific mumbo jumbo, sulfates are the derivative of salts and minerals that act as a surfactants or scrubbing agent the cleanses the hair and it caused the soaps foam and suds. It was the the frothy foamy sudsy action of the sulfates that made them uberly popular and every soap making company wanted that ingredient. Though scientifically speaking the frothy foamy sudsy cleaner is not indicator that the body, scalp and hair is clean; people LOVED it! So what's wrong with that? Well for some allergic reactions were the result. Allergic reactions can range from itchiness, to redness, to swelling, to dryness or to a taught brittle feel on the hair. In other words, it's what they call ...clean. Even though every shampoo and soap making company in the world instructs every user to DISCONTINUE USE if any form of an allergic reaction occurs; I still had to write this blog.

When I was in cosmetology school, I admit; I would not read the manufacturers instructions. I would shampoo a customer's scalp and hair. Some would complain that their scalp would still itch after I shampooed it. My immediate thought was always, "they trippin." My instructor, Ms. Jackie (God bless her) would yell across the floor as if she was reading my thoughts, "Read the directions Ladosha!" As time went on I became educated and licensed. I even had the opportunity to meet a few chemists who were actually formulating shampoos and they too instructed me to read the directions that informed users how allergic reactions to shampoos were very very common. They also said that sulfates were one of many culprits in the plethora of ingredients that are in shampoos that could cause a person could be allergic to it. And no, I am not writing a blog about those other culprits...lol
  

As you can see from reading the history of cleaning, how to effectively clean hair was and still is very difficult. When you add texture hair to the scenario, it is almost virtually impossible to quantify and clarify what it really takes to do effectively. At the Reverence Design Team Hair Salon where I am employed, we make it a point to read the directions and warnings on every product we use as well as be trained by the company and personally meet with the chemists who makes what we use. Yep, we do that. ask every customer during and after a series of questions to ensure they are not having an allergic reaction. For example, we always ask our customers if their scalp itches, if their scalp feels tight and how do they feel. We asks these same questions every time they return to the salon and have a full service. In the event a customer discloses they are allergic to sulfates or other ingredients in the shampoos, our salon is equipped with gallons of apple cider vinegar, boxes of baking soda and other less harsh products to use as an alternative for those with skin sensitive issues. Before there was sulfate free; apple cider vinegar and baking soda did the trick. I say if it ain't broke; don't fix it. 

What is my professional and personal take on sulfates. In my opinion sulfate free in hair care products is like dairy to diets. Everything is not for everybody. There are some people who digest dairy and some who can not. There are some people who can use sulfates and some who can not. There are a whole bunch of reports that expose the dangers of sulfates as carcinogenic. To date, I have never met one person who has medically proved that their cancer is a result of using sulfates, yet that does not mean it was or wasn't a contributing factor. I am no researcher and I am certainly no oncologist. As you educate yourself on sulfates be careful of reading reports. There are many reports. I mean there are reports by people who do not trust reports. Then there are reports that report only what they want to report. There are also reports that are reported by the people who control the reports of what to report to the people they want to report it to. So be careful with those reports. 

Opinions are just that...opinions!

I am not suggesting that you ditch your sulfate shampoos. I use both sulfate and sulfate free in the salon and on my own hair at home. I admit, I do like the lather simply because it is an indicator that oil, dirt and hair products are being removed; though not clean, but being removed.  I do say pay attention to your body. If you are prone to allergies, proceed with caution. Just as you should proceed with caution, you should also follow the manufacturers instructions that instructs you to discontinue use in the event of an allergic reaction. The only draw back to allergic reactions is that for many, they may not know they are allergic to something until they use it. So understand there are some risk involved when using anything that comes into contact with the skin. Rather it is sulfate, sulfate free, organic, gluten, gluten free, natural and everything in between.

Provided you are not allergic, because sulfates are surfactants that are directly responsible for removing oil, dirt and product from the scalp and hair, I say use it. Technically speaking there are only 7 types of shampoo formulas for the millions of hair care manufacturers to choose from, including sulfate free to brand, market and sell to us all. So regardless whose name is on the bottle, whose hair is in the photo and what catchy mantra they develop that vibes with your hair cleansing mission, you are really only making a purchase from those generic formulas. And just as you would guess it; within those 7 formulas are sulfate free shampoos that are are still scientifically categorized as sulfate. Why because sulfate free can also mean that is derived from sulfate compounds or derivatives simply by moving some molecules around. Dangnabbits; I know! 

But there are true sulfate free products on the market that use gentler plant extracts, seed oils, amino acids, palm and coconut oil to name a few. Understand that sulfate free implies the product is gentler. Let me type that again...GENTLER. So just as sulfates truly clean the scalp; it is only honest for me to tell you that sulfate free shampoos do not remove excessive build up of oil, dirt and product from the scalp and hair as effective and sulfates or low poo sulfate derived shampoos. Because the cleansing agent is gentler, it is not meant to be an aggressive cleanse for people who like to use products that are of oily, creamy, lotion, waxy and greasy consistency.

No poo's are not for every body.

In other words, if you are the kind of person who shampoos their hair every two weeks or more using heavy natural or synthetic products on your scalp and hair; sulfate free products may not be the best cleansing option to effectively clean a scalp. Hair that is more soiled with oil, dirt, hair care products and more yeast that the scalp produces can not be cleansed properly with sulfate free. So put it back on the shelf. You are better off using Dawn dish washing liquid to get some of those heavy oils, greases, pomades, butter, balms, creams, lotions, putty, puddings, waxes and salves off the hair. Sulfate free products lack the scrubbing and exfoliating properties of sulfate shampoos to truly lift and remove that kind of oil, dirt, hair care products and yeasts from the scalp. So while your products may be free of sulfates, the costs of what it will take to remove the build up from not cleansing the scalp and hair effectively will increase in increments of $10.00 or more depending upon the severity of the build up.

Cha ching; how is that for free of sulfates?