Co-Wash or Hog Wash

As a some time follower of trends and fads; I have had my share of things I wanted to try. Remember shoulder pads? I would go to the Limited clothing store to buy them by the dozens. I wore the earring with the key on it. Today my lil earlobes are paying a price for them. I also wore Swatch watches. I will admit, there was a time when I wore 3 of them complete with the overall strap hanging off my shoulder. Of the all the fads and trends I tried, Co-Washing is one I have not and will not.

Would you wash up with lotion?

According to Carly Cardellino, a Blogger for Cosmopolitan Magazine, Co-Washing simply means cleansing your hair with your favorite conditioner versus your shampoo. She also reports that this “gentler way” of cleansing makes hair softer, reduces drying and protects hair color from fading.

I say, “Hog wash with a capital H!” I first heard of this phenomena a few years ago in the salon. I did not think much of it. Why? Well, I am no scientist, chemist or dermatologist; but the first question that came to mind is, “Would you wash up with lotion?” As a licensed professional who shampoos hair for a living, I can not reiterate the importance and relevance of proper scalp cleansing. I can also assure you that no maker of any conditioner would promote or advise any of their valued loyal customers to shampoo hair with one of their conditioners. Never.

It is true that sulfates have been the main source of removing dirt and debris from the hair and scalp for years. Sulfates are surfactants that attract dirt, oil and they are also what makes soaps suds thus resulting in squeaky clean hair. There are many experts who report that sulfates causes cancer. The verdict is still out on that one. However, sulfates can cause allergic reactions such as dry skin, itchy skin, skin rashes and the likes. Understand that allergic reactions to many things are not uncommon. Every hair care product instructs users to discontinue use when any form of skin allergy or eye contact with their product is the result; sulfates or not.

The scalp is a part of your skin. Skin is the largest organ of the body, contrary to popular belief. Skin is also part of the excretory system which means; it excretes waste from the body via skin. Many think of sweat as the only way. Well, the scalp release yeast, fibrin, medicines, drugs, alcohol and sweat. For some; pimples (which can be scratched) can also show up on the scalp. Keep in mind the hair and scalp typically has dirt and debris from the environment, micro organisms as well as hair care products. Also, I must add there is another element of debris on the hair and scalp if you smoke or live with someone who smokes. Keep all these contributing factors in mind; now ask yourself, “Is this conditioner really removing all this off my hair and scalp?” Of course not.

If you desire to have softer and manageable hair that will also protect your chemically treated (hair color and relaxed) hair, there are 3 great options to achieving this. The first option is to use a sulfate-free shampoo (some lather and some do not). The second option is to invest in a better quality shampoo. The third and final option is to use a detangling conditioner after you shampoo, detangle your hair and follow up with your favorite conditioner.

In my professional opinion Co-Washing is very dangerous to the scalp and skin. When the scalp and hair is not cleansed properly with the right products; the immediate effects are tender sore scalps, very scaly scalps, excessive shedding, dull hair, limp hair, acne around hairline, acne on the back and acne wherever the hair touches and over processed heavily coated hair.

Conditioners are typically made of synthetic or organic softeners. The pH on many are low enough to make the hair soft. When conditioners are mis-used as they are in the case of Co-Washing, over a period of time, hair becomes overprocessed. Many conditioners do not contain the proper proteins to re-fortify, strengthen and rejuvenate hair til the next wash. Instead, they coat, seal the cuticle, increase shine, soften and make hair more manageable. Though many conditioners contain sulfates, there are not enough in them to effectively clean hair and scalp. 

So, when someone asks you about Co-Washing simply ask, “Would you wash up with lotion?”

It's All in the Shampoo

When I was younger I experienced some tragedies in my life. You know: bad grades, spankings, standing in the corner and eating squash? While those experiences were tragic; they helped mold me into the refined young lady I am today. But (there is always a but), no tragic experience was more excruciating than (drum roll please) getting my hair shampooed.

Take your time when shampooing!

Oh my goodness it's a wash. I hated every moment of it. Whenever I reflect back on those days I shake my head and I think of my mother; poor thing. I use to think of her being that character in Moby Dick when the octopus would come out the water and attack. That is how it was for my mother. My hair would swell into this monstrosity of Afro, naps and kinks. My hair would attack my mom and her Afro comb while simultaneously snatching at my brain. I am telling you, it was horrific!

My poor lil mommy. What was she to do? She would threaten to cut it all off and she would curse my father's side of the family with every stroke of the comb grunting through her seething teeth. She would pause between every word as she combed, "You. Have. Thick. Nappy. Hair. Just. Like. Your. Father!" I remember thinking, "Well why didn't you pick another man?"

While the above mentioned story is interestingly funny; the selection of hair care products available back then was even more funny. Back in those days there were only a handful of products available for Afro hair and none of them did any of what was written on the bottles. Fast forward to today and the selection is too many to name and so overwhelming to choose from.

To make shampooing hair at home less tragic and with less hassle at home, I have four simple steps to selecting the right shampoo and the correct comb. I have 3 tricks to minimize the tangle.

The first step to hassle free shampooing is to identify your the texture of your hair. Hair textures come in 4 types. Curly, Kinky, Wavy and Straight. Some people can a combination of textures. The second step is to match the shampoo to the texture. For example, if you have wavy hair; your shampoo should read "wavy" hair on the bottle. The third step, I suggest the shampoo should also read to the condition of  your hair. For example, color treated, damaged, dry and the likes. The fourth is tricky. Do not purchase your shampoo according to your race. For example, words like "natural," "African-American," "mixed," "women of color," and the likes. Those words have a very large meaning and is generic for those who are looking for a shampoo that is formulated for their unique hair fabric.

Your styling tools should consist of a comb out comb or a long tooth comb out comb. Refrain from using smaller combs, flimsy combs or combs that break easily. Those types of combs promote breakage.

Three tricks for tangle free hair begins with a detangling conditioner (these conditioners are soley responsible for making the hair softer; thus giving it more slip). Next, be sure the hair is very wet. Wet hair combined with the detangling conditioner will give the hair more slip. Last, be sure the water is warm. Warm water makes the hair sofer; while cold water causes the hair to constrict and tangle more.

Shampooing is the foundation to hair being tangle free, bouncy and shiny. Take your time. Concentrate on massaging the scalp thoroughly; for it circulates bloods which provide nourishment and promote growth. Lastly shampoo your hair as needed. For some it's weekly and others it can be every few days.

If you take your time and use these tips; I am certain shampooing will be easier, less hassle and you too will conclude that, it's all in the shampoo!