Pillow Talk

"I sure hope this cotton pillow don't mess up my hair!"

Those of us who work in the beauty industry are use to hearing all sorts of old wives tales when it comes to the do's and dont's of hair, nails and skin care. Wikipedia explains, "Old wives’ tales originate in the oral tradition of storytelling. They were generally propagated by illiterate women, telling stories to each other or to children. The stories did not attempt to moralize  but to teach lessons and make difficult concepts like death or coming of age easy for children to understand. Also these stories are used to scare children so they don't do certain things.

So now that we have a clearer understanding of what old wives tales are. Let me share with you   some funny old wives tales that I have heard while servicing my customers. Starting with cutting hair. I have heard, "Get your hair cut often because cutting your hair makes it grow." I have also heard,"Soak your nails in Jello to make them stronger." Another funny one that I  have heard, "If you are Black do not shampoo your hair frequently (like 1-3 times per week). Black people can not shampoo their hair as much as white people." But the funniest one of them all that I most recently heard, "Don't sleep on cotton pillow cases because they cause your hair to break and come out."

Typically when I write blogs, I make it a point to do a lot of research on my topic to ensure the information that I am writing about is not one sided. The challenge in writing this blog was that I could not find a expert of any sort who had done "pillow and hair" research. Hmmm!

In my professional opinion, thee old wives tale cotton pillow cases being the culprit to hair breakage and falling out is just that, another old wives tale. When I teach my customers about hair care, I always ask them to look in the mirror. I am certain to give them a hand held mirror to show them that they walked into the salon and sat in my chair hair WITH on their head! I remind them that the objective in the beauty industry (beauty supply stores included) is to make money. So they will tell you a lot to get your money. Do not fall for the "buy a satin pillow case" pitch. Many people grew up sleeping on cotton pillow cases and had heads full of hair. Many even went on to have fun at sleep overs, survived pillow fights and prop their heads up while nursing a cold; believe it or not, all this was done on pillow cases. Cotton pillow cases at that.

Sooooo, to make a long blog short. Do not run to the beauty supply or linen store to replace your cotton pillow cases with fancy satin or silk pillow cases. I guarantee no matter what kind of pillow case you sleep on your hair will be the same. And if you take the time to look, you will see some strands of hair. I can also guarantee you that cotton pillow cases work best if you sweat a lot in your head. Cotton absorbs moisture better than the other fancier fabrics. Also for the record, wrapping your hair in any kind of fabric is simply to preserve the hair style or to cut down on styling time the next day. If you want to reduce breakage and hair loss; drink more water, exercise, eat  balanced meals, get some sleep, be sure to have nice bowel movements :-) and keep your hair clean, conditioned and combed (where applicable).

How is that for some "COTTON" pillow talk!

Adventures in Continuing Education

In the state of Ohio, licensed cosmetologists are required to obtain 8 hours of continuing education in order to work as a licensed professional. I am always excited about continuing my education. This time for my education, I decided to take on the art of learning how to do a Quik Weave properly.

Invest in being properly trained.

This continuing education workshop was nothing like the ones I typically take. Most people know that the field of cosmetology is a very creative one. And most people think that most cosmetologists are naturally very creative people. Well, I am not. So learning this art will be quite challenging and creative!

To get things started, I did a little research on hair weave and learned that an African American woman from Cleveland, Ohio named Christina Jenkins invented "Hairweeving." Hairweeving is her patented art of sewing wefts of hair onto cornrow braided hair. Christina opened a school for licensed cosmetologists to learn her technique of Hairweeving. She also opened a chain of businesses named, Christina's Hair Weev throughout Cleveland. As for the Quik Weave, two highly recognized and sought after hairstylists from Detroit, Michigan named Lil Willie and Big Bad D took hair weaving to the next level by introducing the world of cosmetology to Quik Weaving.

Quik Weaving is hair addition technique that entails the meticulous application of gluing on wefts of real or synthectic hair to hair that is molded. I will highlight the 4 most interesting things I learned about Quik Weaving.

The first "most interesting thing" I learned about Quik Weaving are the different kinds of hair additions techniques that are best for certain hair textures, hair types and scalp conditions. 

The second "most interesting thing" I learned was how the different types of hair (synthetic or artificial) are to be used for certain hair weaving techniques. Many people think that the varying hair can be generically used for any kind of hair weaving technique on any head of hair. It is very important to match the proper technique to the right kind of hair for the right technique. For example, the Remy hair is best used for Quik Weave and the Brazilian hair textures are best used for strand by strand or fusion methods to create movement and illusion of realness.

The third "most interesting thing" I learned is that there is nothing quick about a Quik Weave. I assumed this would be quick, hence its namesake. Dud, it takes a lot of time to do a Quik Weave service! You have to mold the hair properly. The client has to sit under a dryer until the molded hair is completely dry. Measuring, cutting, applying glue to the weft and applying the weft to the hair takes a great deal of time. I was surprised that the odor of the glue smelled like like fish (lol) I was also surprised how quick the glue adhered to the molded hair. Also I was impressed that the hair adhered very secure and looked very real.

The fourth "most interesting thing" I learned about hair weaving is how the inventor, Christina Jenkins, of this very profitable technique is not getting any recognition for her invention. She is also not receiving any monies in her name of any sorts. This woman was robbed of her invention by a large number of students who dropped out and began their own versions of what she was teaching. (how tacky) The same can be said for Lil Willie and Big Bad D. In the spirit of continuing education, as licensed professionals, let us be mindful of education and who teaches us. Do the right thing pay in full for your education and give credit where it is due. 

Give credit where it is due.

While I would not declare myself as skilled with this method of hair styling, I am thankful to my educator Herbert Pittmon who trained me and gave me a little history before we got started. I would recommend any one interested in any of the hair addition techniques to only patronize well trained cosmetologists. Ask who trained them, where and what did they learn. Stay away from self taught hairstylist. Also, stay away from those hair stylist who watch YOUTUBE, then come to work and charge you. I would not try this at home. As for licensed professionals who have the proper training, experience and credentials...RAISE YOUR PRICES!

Fired Up and Ready to Style!

First Lady, Michelle Obama

Barack Obama is our first African American president. Michelle Obama is our first African American first lady. Not since Jackie O, has Americans been excited about the image and beauty of our nation’s first lady. At the most recent Democratic convention, not only did she give the absolute most memorable speech she also gave us the most absolute image of a lady that is educated, poised, confident, loving and extremely attractive.

As a cosmetologist, we are often inundated with pictures in magazines of women and men requesting “the look” on the pages adorned by the famous and not so famous. Of all the hair styles I have been commissioned to reproduce, no look has been more requested than the look Michelle Obama’s hair, skin, nails and the health of it.

I was more excited this time than I was the last time when I watched our “First Family” walk out onto the stage after President Obama won the election. Images of their red and black garments, varying hues of caramel skin tones, straight hair, curly hair, corn rows and Caesar low cuts graced television screens across the world. The world was excited and united, no doubt.

While I do not style Michelle, Malia and Sasha Obama’s hair, I do have expertise on what it takes to achieve their looks.

A few things stand out in this First Families hair care regimen that I do recommend. The first is versatility. If you are really paying attention to the ladies in the first family; they have a tendency to wear different hair styles. Changing your look gives your hair a break from heat styles, braid styles, pony tails and natural styles. When hair is textured, a myriad of looks can be worn to enhance your image and free you from the tasks of meticulous grooming on a daily basis.

The First Family

Second, notice how Michelle Obama, like our mother’s preserves her “special occasion” hair styles for special occasions. Most of our parents adorned our hair with braids, plats, corn rows or pony tails for every day wear. Michelle Obama does the same for her daughters. Like our parents, she reserves those “special occasion” hair styles for photo shoots, formals, church and other forms celebrations or special occasions. As for Michelle, notice she too changes her hair style to match her lifestyle. Hair stylists across the globe often encourage women to lower their expectations when it comes to hair styles. Attempting to look photo finished is not realistic for most working women and school attending girls. Most women make salon visits with the goal of “keeping” a hair style for a week or two. All hair styles can not last two weeks or til the next salon visit.

Take a look at our first lady, who looks just like us; she wears ponytails, up-do’s, head bands and soft flowing layers. She never always looks picture perfect. She looks like the wife and working mother she is. Take a look at her daughters. They too wear pony tails, braids, twists and their straightened or curled styles are reserved for those special occasions.  

Notice, their hair is never coated with heavy oils, pomades, waxes and flakes. I have seen pictures of Michelle and her children with pony tails, corn rows, braids, straight looks and curls. Therefore, relax and follow the leader of image for real women. If Michelle Obama can rock any look, work, take care of children and help get her husband re-elected to the white house; surely we can follow her lead. Be practical, affordable and do-able when it comes to hair care. Active life styles call for hair styles that are low maintenance and east to duplicate.

 On a final note, voting is a very important right that we have as Americans. While I am staunch supporter of the Democratic Party and President Obama (who will be re-elected), practice your right to vote for who you feel the best candidate is for the job on all levels of government. I will be exercising that right this year. Will you join me in doing so? Keep in mind, ex-felons and those who have not been convicted, CAN VOTE.

Buyer Beware

I really love my hair. Now what else can I do?

Once upon a time there was a young lady who had a thick head of hair. It was textured, strong, shiny and versatile. She could rock her natural fro. She could braid it. She could press it out and even flat iron. There was a time when she had relaxed it. She even transitioned from the relaxer back to her natural without loosing her hair. Occasionally her parents let her go the hair salon; but for the most part she did her hair her self. She was very good at caring for her hair. She did an excellent job her entire doing her own hair. 

One day this young lady grew bored with caring for her hair. (Please keep in mind, that her hair was already fabulous and she was doing a great job doing it herself). Along came Info-mercials. Often times this young lady was tempted to make a purchase, but her wise ol' head would kick in and remind her of how lovely her hair already was. Next, came the kiosk mall carts with their fancy hair care products and styling tools. Again, this young lady was tempted. As usual her wise ol' head kicked in and reminded her of how lovely her hair was. Then one day the internet popped in and bam; she met her match. She was impressed with the "click of the mouse," no icky trap to throw out. She loved the bright lights and the hidden surprises behind every click. She would be online for hours. She was looking for nothing special, just browsing (and to think no shoes, so her feet would not hurt). 

"Stawp it Judy, I can buy that for my hair too!"

Then bam, again. Out of nowhere.....hair care (can't you hear the voice)! "Awe silky silky nah." She was in heaven. There the young lady went and out went her wise ol' head. Before she knew it, her once clear shelves were now cluttered with hair care stuff. Instead of signing for flowers; she was signing for more hair care products and instead of purchasing those Rubbermaid storage containers for her hobby, seasonal stuff and shoes; she was now storing and hoarding....dun dun dun dun....HAIR CARE PRODUCTS!

"How did you get here?" And this was not Deborah Cox asking either. She looked in the mirror and her once long thick textured natural hair was broken, faded, tattered, torn and shortened to something she could not recognize. 

This is a scenario I see one too many times at work, while visiting my friends, shopping and so on. I am often overwhelmed by so many disappointed consumers who have been duped by these unregulated, untrained and under educated plethora of self - professed "natural hair care" Gurus, "healthy hair" stylist, "natural hair care" licensed pros, "YouTube Tell-Its," "As Seen On T.V.'s hair care Susies" and so on and so forth.

What is a consumer to do? Buyer and shopper beware is all I can say. I inform all of my customers; if you have it (hair) on your head before you buy those hair care products and sit in the stylist's chair; you OBVIOUSLY MUST BE DOING SOMETHING RIGHT. To make a very complicated situation un-very complicated; my response to this crazy hair care products enigma....is FREE samples. 

A fool and her money will always part

Do not spend money on things you can not try first. Hey if the person selling it believes in it so much; tell them to back that thang up! If they stutter or come up with some malarchi....remember it is just that; malarchi. And as for sitting in the chair; a referral is worth a thousand words. Ask around, Google that stylist, salon or professional. Not that professionals do not get bad write ups, but how many is the question. I, too, would be leery of the "Perfect Patties." However, it is how the stylist or business resolve the complaint is what I would be interested in. So, "money back guarantees" always work for me as well as easy return policies.

In conclusion, if the Young Lady in this blog sounds like someone you know, don't fret. It is hair and it will grow back. Go back to your basics. Keep in mind if it sounds to good to be true; it usually is. And last but not least, also keep in mind that America is a country that loves to use fear to motivate the masses to spend spend spend. Soooo, money can be a great indicator of how good or not good something is; but it can also be a indicator of how foolish we can be.

Shop around and as Big Ma would say, "keep it simple silly!"

Blown Away



Oh no, blow me down!

The world of beauty has more myths than Greek Mythology. Of all the myths I hear in hair care, none has me roflmao (rolling on the floor laughing my anus off) like “heat damages hair.”

The first two things that come to mind about this myth is one, the beauty editors and writers who promote the school of thought that heat is bad for hair and the second are the beauty professionals who further perpetuate the myth. Not that a cosmetology license is needed to know all there is to know about hair; however  proper training and education increases the likelihood of knowing how to use heat, when to use heat, what to use heat with and who to use heat on. For certain, one could argue fire burns food. However, if one knows how to use the fire they can cook different types of food at varying degrees and never burn it. Feel me?

So with that tid bit, I can start by debunking that age old myth that heat is bad for hair because it burns it. That myth is not true. It is the misuse of heat that burns hair. It is unclean hair that burns. It is also hair that is coated with too much product that burns. Of course if the heat is too high for a certain hair fabric (texture); that too will burn hair.

To successfully blow dry hair, it must be clean and not weighed down with heavy oils or silicones. Clean hair is also flake or fibrin free. No scales should be on your clothes or in your eyebrows. Is blow drying more damaging to hair than sitting under the hooded dryer? Well according to Shake-n-Bake® you can fry chicken in an oven (lol)! In other words, if too much oil is on hair; you will l. In essence you will burn the oil first and your hair right along with. Therefore, do not use heavy oils, petro based oils, mineral oils and the likes. Instead use oils such as Olive Oil, Jojoba and Grapeseed to name a few. These are food based oils. They can be found in the grocery store with the recommended temperature setting written on the front of the bottle.

Now that we have clean hair, let’s be sure to have the right tools. It is the texture, density and length of hair that determines the best apparatus to smooth hair with. Everything is not for everybody. Hair is unique as the person whose head on which it lies. Therefore, do not cookie-cut how you blow dry your hair. The following is a guide to help you select the proper tools:

                  Hair Textures                                     Suggested Blowdrying Tool

Straight Hair (no wave, kink or curl)	Blowdryer, fingers or vent brush
Afro	Blowdryer with comb attachment in small sections
Afro-Wave	Blowdryer and Denman Brush in small sections
Afro-Curl	Blowdryer and Denman Brush in small sections
Kinky	Blowdryer with comb attachment in small sections
Wavy	Blowdryer, Denman Brush or comb attachment
Curly	Blowdryer, Denman Brush or comb attachment
Fine mousy hair (with or without texture)	No blow drying recommended

It is not uncommon for texture and density to be easily confused or used interchangeably. There is a distinct difference between hair texture and hair density. Hair texture is the actual feel of the hair while hair density reflects the number of hairs on the head. Therefore immensely thick dense heads of hair; the comb attachment is best. For medium dense heads of hair; the Denman Brush is best and for fine, sparse hair; Denman or no blow drying at all is recommended.

In addition to the right tool, the right amount of heat is needed. For medium to dense heads of hair with texture, the blow-dryer must be at least 1700-1800 watts.The cooler the temperature on the blow-dryer; the frizzier the hair. For fine to thinning hair 1600 to 1700 watts is needed to ensure that hair will not be burned or damaged. Think, steaming vegetables.

Now we have the tools; we have to know how to use them. First make sure hair is still somewhat wet; this helps give hair some slip when blow-drying. Second, protect your hair by using Olive Oil or a thermal protectant to buff the hair and scalp from intense heat. Be sure the blow-dryer is close to the hair for optimal results. The further the heat is away from the hair; the frizzier the hair will be. Remember, oil spreads when heat gets too it; so DO NOT use more than a dime size amount. You can always add more. To prevent hair from being oily, heavy and shellacked; start off using dime size amounts.

To recap; we know heat is NOT bad for hair provided we do not actually burn our hair. Textures play an important role on what tool to use with the blow-dryer to get hair smooth. And, do not use too much oil or heat protectant.

Next it is best to begin blow-drying your hair from the back of your head starting from the bottom by your neck to the top of your head, then work your way to the sides, to the top of your head to the front. Hair clips are best to hold the hair out of the way as to not snag and tangle hair. Be sure each section is totally dry. Do not allow hair to air dry in any capacity; for frizz is the result. The more you brush or stroke the section of hair; the bigger and puffier your hair will be. So, pull and smooth the section of hair with the blow-dryer slowly until completely dry.

In the event you have Afro, Afro textured curly, wavy or kink, understand that blow-drying is to smooth hair; NOT straighten hair. If your hair is straight (no texture); blow-drying will straighten it out.

Feel free to print this and go step by step. Practice makes perfect. Have fun, after all it is your hair. So get blown away with these techniques and go for what you know!

Keeping it 100

The Living Legend, Vidal Sasoon,
"If you don't look good, we don't look good."

The beauty industry is quite exciting and full of surprises as well as wonderful people. Most of the attention is given to all the things and people they do not like about the beauty industry; while the good that people do continues to fall under the radar.

Whenever I do a presentation, I make it a point to stress that there is a paradigm shift in hair care where women want to know what are we (the beauty professional) doing to their hair, why does it cost what it does, how much training have we (the beauty professional) had, how much more training will we get and so on. I personally attribute part of this paradigm shift to the internet and the era of "do it yourself." Gone are the days of sitting in the chair and having your way with clients (guests). Women want to know. I am somewhat new to the industry and I constantly here about the good ol' days.

Well today, the good ol' days just got better and I am most certain that the best is soon to follow. As I keep it 100, I can tell you that there are some phenomenal professionals in the beauty industry who work in the spirit of the good ol' days to the point of making future "good ol'days" today. Some famous and some not so famous. Her are three (famous and not so famous) beauty professional who have kept and is "Keeping it 100."

My "shero," Lady, Olive Benson

I have had the blessing to meet the person I patterned my entire career after. I cried so hard when she called me on the phone; you'd thought I hit the Mega Millions! Her name was Olive Benson. What a pioneer she was. She single handed made it her priority to challenge the makers of hair color to make it safer for women who chemically altered their hair with sodium hydroxide and amonium thioglycolate. She was a proctor for the American Board of Certified Colorists. She went out of her way to pave the way for future cosmetologists to step up their A-Game and be amongst the elite working with the best using the best products and tools.

The Epitome of "A-Game,"
Pedicurist, Mr. Bastien Gonzalez

And what about Bastien Gonzlez? He is the manicurist extraordinare who is so profound at what he does, he doesn't even polish nails! Wow, now that's keepin it 100. This man is so passionate about the beauty of hands and feet; he is quoted as saying that "nail polish messes up the beauty of feet." Did I mention, you can not book an appointment with him because he has a "members only" policy. Dude, now that is what you call, "one-of-a-kind." Mr. Gonzalez epitomizes what it is to be true to yourself. He does not call his refer to his clients and customers as clients or customers. Nope, he call them his "foot" soilders. All they do is walk the beaches and hallways of the most luxurious beaches and spas around the world barefooted so gracefully, that others ask, "who does your feet?" That's keepin it 100.

In skin care, I met an esthetician named Raina Brown (sorry no photo was available). Raina is a recent graduate of esthetics. She simply amazes me with her signature flower in her hair to accent her beauty. She keeps it 100 by giving her customers (guests) the ultimate facial experience. She enhances that experience with her individualized take home tips and yes that flower in her hair lights up the room and makes everyone she touches smile in amazement.

In the era of Reality T.V , Dr. Oz, Oprah, Deepak and Wayne Dyer, I am surprised that we have no "Good News" T.V. They say that good news is boring and that it does not bring in the money or sponsorships like bad news does. As I keep it 100; perhaps what they have before them is not good news? I do.

I have some good news. The people who work in the beauty industry truly care and are very passionate people who make good news beautiful. And as I keep it 100, I am proud to be a licensed cometologist. We change lives. We enhance peoples beauty, we promote healthy self esteem and self awareness. We can turn a frown upside down. Beauty professionals do more than just hair, skin and nails. There are many of us who ooze reciprocity. We give back as much as we receive. For real; keeping it 100, I liken the passion and committment of beauty professionals who are on their A-Game to a mantra the living legend Vidal Sasoon made famous that I live by, "We take pride in everything we do. If you don't look good; we don't look good!"

To all the beauty professionals who are on their A-Game, is truly passionate about doing the right thing because it's the right thing to do and all that jive; keep up the good work. The customers love us. We are the blessed, humble, healty, wealthy and happy ones. The beauty industry is full of professionas who are truly,,,, all that and a bag of chips!

Hey I'm just keeping it 100.

My Hair Use to Be...

What's happening with my hair?

A woman has a lot to endure as she ages. Change is one of the biggest. When one thinks of the changes that a woman goes through as she ages, the first few things that comes to mind are her chronological age, her boobs and her ability or inability to have children. While those are the most popular, there are many more. 

Let's see; there is changing of the hormones, which for many, can bring about menopause. There is also weight gain, changes in the appearance of skin by means of moles, wrinkles, age spots and much more to name a few. 

Of all the changes a woman has to endure and live with, hair loss is one of those changes many women struggle with and can also downright deny that subtle to drastic changes are indeed occurring. In my professional opinion, more should be done to prepare a woman for the possibilities of hair loss and thinning as they age. Because America is such a image conscious place to live, preparing one for all the changes that will take place and what to do as those changes occur are just as important as preparing a new employee to prepare his taxes and investment portfolio to benefit him or her as he/she ages.

As a professional cosmetologist, I am often asked by women how come they were never told what to expect about their hair as they age. Many women are frustrated and in denial about how severe hair thinning and hair loss can be. The popular stereotype is that women begin to loose their hair in their sixties. Many also feel that at the age of sixty, looking attractive is not important. Those two school of thoughts can only be broken down to one thing and one thing only; myths. Regardless the age, sex, race, class and so on many women want to look nice and adorn themselves at any age. One is never too old to look nice or to want to look nice.

I tell every guest I service of all ages from every walk of life, "I'm in the beauty business. I'm not the person to step in front of and throw away any facet of beauty. The beauty salon is all about beauty!" That statement always brings a smile to a person's face. While we all have different definitions of beauty and how we want to express it; it is beauty nonetheless. However, there are things done in the name of beauty and anti-aging beauty that actually speeds up the process of aging and compromises hair with more speed and intensity. 

Just as we all know aging is innate and it will occur, does not mean that we have to speed things along and make the aging process go faster. While many women desire to age gracefully with time there are those in between and in the midst of it all who want to maintain some level of enhanced beauty. With that, I will examine The Top 5 things Done to our Hair to speed aging up and how we can slow that baby down!

The Top 5 things Done to our Hair that speeds up the its aging process (drum roll please)... 

1. Treating your hair as you did when you were in your teens and twenties:  Believe it or not, the life expectancy of one strand of hair is 7 years. So every seven years, you practically have an entire new head of hair. When the hair is replenished, it is typically thinner (in diameter) and some follicles (the hole the hair actually grows from) can die off; thus making hair thinner and less dense (the number of hairs per cubic inch). As you age, I suggest upping the anty on the quality of hair care products one uses on their hair. The three words you should look for on the bottle or advertisement are: antioxidants (they fight off environmental stressors that deteriorates hair and makes it look older), protein (soy, wheat and hydrolyzed keratin are the best they rebuild and strengthen keeping it from snapping and breaking) and shine enhancers (olive oils, jojoba and other exotic fruit oils are great for giving the hair slip and adding sheen to the hair without weighing the hair down).
2. Infrequent Shampooing: Remember when you were younger, you could go for weeks without shampooing your hair? The operative word in that sentence is younger. Remember hair gets softer as we age, so infrequent shampooing leaves hair coated, limp and dull; hence unwanted breakage. The scalp is secreting yeast. The less often it is shampooed, the more the yeast will spread throughout the hair; thus making it porous, weak, fragile and prone to breakage. Shampoo your hair at least once per week. Remember, shampoo is to your hair what soap is to skin and soap powder is to clothes. Need I say more? Lastly, be sure to invest in quality products. Be leery of over the counter and savvy salon products that over promise and under deliver. Money back guarantee is a must.
3. Infrequent or Discontinued Hair Cuts:  As we age so does our time and money. So while both may be slipping through our fingers faster than we we can count it; save a few bucks for a hair cut every 8-10 weeks. Again, keep in mind; hair is more fragile as we age. Typically around the age of 35, women and men really notice a big difference in their hair. A hair cut is to your hair, what filing is to finger nails! Remember to shop around for a master cutter, get a consultation, pre-book your appointment before you leave and yes cutting hair under a full moon grows hair a wee bit faster. So download a lunar app on your phone or purchase a calendar with one and boom...that's it!
4. Incorrect Styling Tools: In the era of the "natural hair" phenomenon; nothing damages the scalp and hair more than the wrong styling tools. I am more than aware of the reported dangers of chemicals on hair. However, I tend to lend my expertise to the realities of practicalities. So why every self proclaimed or self taught expert on natural hair is bad mouthing, bad blogging, bad writing and every other bad thing-ing about chemical relaxers, straighteners or hair color; I tend to know it is what is done to the hair the most that is the culprit. So for all practical intents and purposes most people comb, tease, pick, brush, slick, clip, pull, tuck, scrunch, braid, twist, blow dry, roller set, wrap and everything in between when it comes to caring for and grooming the hair. Keeping that in mind; it is the styling tools that come into contact with the scalp and hair more than chemicals. If those styling tools are the wrong kind, damaged hair is the result. Improper and poor quality styling tools lead to scratching, scarring and in some instances cutting of the scalp. Improper and poor quality tools coupled with the wrong technique on how to use them is the equivalent of using a butter knife to cut raw meat. Proper tool selection and how to use them is very important. A consultation with your licensed beauty professional can help with this problem.
5. Medication and Vitamin Supplements: Another culprit to speeding up the aging process on hair are medications and vitamin supplements. There are medications that can promote hair thinning, dryness, hair loss and scalp irritation. In the event side affects from the medication begins or will affect your hair; speak with your doctor for help. Keep in mind your M.D, Gynecologists, Oncologist and all those other "gists" are NOT dermatologists. Be sure to have your doctor refer you to one for proper diagnosis and treatment. Do not play doctor. Do not ask your cosmetologist to play doctor. The inner workings of your organs, how they are nourished and scalp are the foundation of the health of the hair. Hair care products, styling tools and cosmetologists makes hair look and feel healthy. With that said, DO NOT discontinue medications without talking to your doctor first. Inform your doctor of any changes in your hair and scalp. Lastly, while vitamin supplements can help; they are not a cure all to re-grow and re-fortify hair. Ask your doctor about the benefits of vitamins and other supplements as it relates to your health and hair. 

In conclusion the hair you had on your head at 14, 21, 28,35,42,49,56 or 61 years of age and so on are not the same. Your hair changes as you age.  Your hair care regimen, products, styling products and styling techniques must change as you age as well. A consultation with a professional cosmetologist and/or a visit to the dermatologist is the best place to start with adjusting your hair care as you age. If it works use it. If it does not, seek help. If you do not have a professional stylist, feel free to contact those 1-800 and 1-866 numbers on the side of the box from the products you purchased. I also recommend visiting the company's website. Companies love to hear from their consumers. Trust me, it is how they get better. Everyone does not have to to go to the hair salon to have healthy hair at any age. Hair loss and thinning are the norm for all humans; both male and female. While we can not totally make our hair what it "use to be," we do not have to speed up the thinning and hair loss process and make it into something that "won't be...." on our heads that is!