BLACK HAIR

Segregation in hair carae must go.

I must admit, it is hard to believe in this day and time when we no longer see signs that read, “Whites Only” or “Blacks Only,” we can walk into a store and go down an isle with signage that reads, “Black Hair or Ethnic Hair Care.” SMH

When I walk down the isle with signage that simply reads, “Hair care,” I am pleased with photos of different textures, types and hair styles. For it is that image that helps shoppers with making their decision on which product to buy or make the right choice.  When I walk down the “Ethnic” isle, I cringe. On every product, with the exception of hair color, all the photos consist of people of color with black (as in the color) hair, donning only 2-3 different hair styles, with the same photo-shopped air brushed finish photos on the product bottles and boxes.

The image on the bottles, boxes or posters play an important role in helping the customers know which product to buy.  The images used to promote hair care for women of color do not reflect the consumer who is making the purchase. Purchasing the correct product for your hair is very important to anyone regardless of race. But (there is always a but), for people of color; many do not rely on or use the images and posters seen on the product to help them make a decision to buy or not to buy a particular product.

The purchase of hair care products for most women of color and women with textured hair begins via word of mouth. Before he or she enters the store and walk down the aisle; they have a general idea of what they are looking for. Ironically, most of what they are looking for is probably the wrong product. Why? More than likely, the visit to the store is driven by a word of mouth promotion; which is great in theory, but horrible in practice.

When it comes to matters of hair care and how to style it, a live and DIRECT consultation is the best way for the those who honestly do not know or is looking for a new direction in the right way to care for their hair (textured or not). Word of mouth advice does not quite capture what an in depth conustation can. Removing or eliminating the expertise of a trained professional to assist with how to properly care for hair is like removing the lawyer from the court room. Do not do it.

Chemists and makers of hair care products rarely use images of people to help them formulate. To be honest, the color of a person's skin is at the bottom of the equation when creating a formula. Actually, they rely on the science of hair and chemicals when formulating hair care products. Many companies no longer or simply refuse to test on animals too (ain't life grand). As a result, it would only make since to promote and influence the consumer to visit a professional to assist them in making purchases without the influence of image.

While it is biologically true that Africans have a unique coil in all textures where African descent is evident; however, the physiological characteristics of the hair is not the same for every person of the same race regardless which side of the continent they came from. It is impossible for every man, woman and child of color to have the same hair (textured or not). So it should be illegal to be allowed to promote or sell a product that reflects otherwise. End segragation in hair care.

Europeans would not allow a day to end to have to shop in a store and make purchases of hair care products that have bottles, boxes and posters where everyone has blonde hair and blue eyes. All White people do not have straight blonde hair with blue eyes. Just as all people of color do not have the same color of black hair, straightened hair or kink patterned hair with brown eyes. End stereotypes in hair care.

Hair is as unique as the head on which it lies. There is no such thing as “black" hair as it relates to buying hair care products. There is also no such thing as a white doctor or white attorney not being able to provide their services to people of color. The same standard of practice needs to exist in hair care. The days of a White stylist not doing locs and an African American cosmetologist not being able to service a Asian customer cannot come soon enough. Why are we surprised to see a White person palm rolling locs and Asian person braiding corn-rows? The segregation in hair care needs to be put to an end.

End segregation in hair care.

In a country that is calls itself a “melting pot,” how can segregation still exist on any level? We can all eat together, vote together, shop together, breathe together, pray together and sleep together; but you can’t do my hair?

Really?

The Natural Hair Scare

The Natural Hair Scare
Mean Mug Shot

My career in cosmetology is full of things that I would have never imagined. This career is full of things that never even came up in cosmetology school. Understand schooling for anything can not possible expose its students to every scenario, but one typically gets the just of what they are in store for as they proceed further into their education. Well in cosmetology, I found myself, very often, saying things like "Really," "Ooooh kay," "Do tell," and my favorite that I stole from Spanky of The Lil' Rascals, "You don't say!" Those sayings were indicators that I did not have enough of a spectrum of what I signed up for to get the "just" of what I was getting into.

There are many things that amaze me as a cosmetologist, that school simply did not cover; nor did it even "quite" capture. For instance, no amount of education could have prepared me that I as a salon owner would have to speak to employees about combing their own hair. To me that is like the owner of a dental practice telling his staff to brush their teeth. I am sure it happens, but; really?" Or a chef who will not invest in fine cook and flat ware, "Ooooh kay!" Or a messenger who is chronically late, "Do tell," I say. And I love the retired sports person who always brags about how they use to be this and how they use to be that,"You don't say!" But the kicker for me in the beauty industry is how an entire industry has somehow established itself as a profession with the use of one kind of hair; straight. SMH

Prior to entering cosmetology school, I anticipated the day I could learn how to cut an Afro. People have a lot of assumptions about people of color. And one of the biggest assumption is that we all have the same kind of hair and we all know how to the same things to it. You know; cut an Afro and braid cornrows? You don't say. I was flabergasted when I was given the option to purchase a Black or White mannequin head with straight hair. I was like, "Yo' where are the textured hair mannequins, textured hair samples or textured something." My cosmetology instructor responded, "Well most people will want straight hair." I asked, "Well what about people with Afros and textured hair?" She did not respond, she just gave me a blank stare in which I interpreted as, "Get yo' black  ass in that class." So, I did just that.

Throughout my education, I seriously anticipated learning about the varying degrees of textured hair. It never happened. All I got was some hogwash about how challenging it will be to work with textured hair and that I would get my practice in upon working in a hair salon. "You don't say." I am going to be able to become licensed with no true working knowledge of how to properly work with textured hair except for the lessons my mom and Big Momma gave me? So some time in April of 2000, I received an Ohio State managing cosmetology license. One with no official texture hair training, instruction, education, formal introduction or any of that fancy stuff you get when you pay for education.

One thing's for certain and two things for sure; while the state granted me the license, the public at large would be in for a rude awakening. The average person is under the assumption that receiving an education in cosmetology would include learning or getting exposure to the various textures and the concept of how to care for and style those varying textures. Nope, no sir-ree. Textured hair in the world of cosmetology has somehow escaped the rigors of expertness, study and practicum. It is not woven in any principles in the fundamentals of hair care. Textured hair receives mention (with all do respect; they do not want to offend the people of color).

How in the dickens can Milady (the writers of the book of cosmetology who is running a monopoly on the education of cosmetology nationwide) write a book, sell a curriculum, offer advanced training in everything cosmetology and deliberately overlooks textured hair, any and all facets of how to care for and style it? I am certain they must be aware of how that blatant oversight scares the masses and leaves open a virus of ignorance, greed, self serving and manipulative people to take with it and do what they damn well please.

The natural hair scare is running rapid nation wide and internationally. People are proclaiming themselves as "natural hair experts" by the very nature of having it on their head fully equipped with anywhere from 300 to 1800 hours of education from a beauty school and a license from some state in any state USA. Hell, some people do not even have that.  How is that able to happen? I mean in any other line of work that would be called, "Impersonating." A gynecologist of obstetrics does not become one because they received a bachelor of medicine of some sorts. They had to go through the rigors. The mere suggestion of putting someone through the rigors of become a cosmetologist or a natural hair braider beyond the 300 and up to 1800 hours is like suggesting someone goes to jail.

If the powers that be are really serious about this industry; they would stop this segregated nonsense called "natural hair." If the hair is on your head; it is natural. You do not even have to be a cosmetologist to figure that one out. Really, have you ever heard of a doctor who went to medical school and learned to only work on "White" people with medical conditions? Just because a person feels that their predisposition to certain styling techniques that are stereotypically associated with a race of people does not automatically make them more prepared than a person of another race who works with hair with NO texture.

The varying states that issue a "Natural Hair Styling" license need to incorporate everything in the education of hair styling and hair care that the public at large is interested in receiving from a licensed professional; regardless race and hair texture. I get the feel that the powers that be on the state board level was caught off guard and allowed these people to let them get away with the minimum to get the maximum (a license.) The decision to allow these people to become licensed only in "natural hair styling" has segregated the industry. It has scared off people of other races who want to learn and do textured hair. Customers are afraid of their own natural hair and some people of other races are afraid textured hair. That type of fear is unwarranted. There is no need to fear textured hair on your head or textured hair that one may be interested in doing professionally. I have not seen a white person locking, braiding, sister locking, tree braiding, extension adding to braid or twist hair and so on. I know their must be some, but I have not seen one. In any other profession, that type of strong arm tactic would never be allowed. No one can escape law school because they were of a certain race that was predisposed to a life of criminal activity and felt they could represent criminals more effectively than a person who went to law school and learned to defend a criminal from a "book" and internship.

Prostitution was such a taboo. People feared it in every way imaginable; yet prostitution is the oldest profession in the nation. Hair styling is the second. If legalization can work in prostitution (and all the special tricks that come with the profession for those who practice it of any race); imagine what it can do for hair (and all the tricks and textures that come with it)!
 
No fear.

Wait, Wonder & Pay

Wait!

How many times have you turned the television on to see a comedy skit about someone waiting in a salon for hair appointment with cobwebs growing on them? How many times have you tuned into our favorite radio show and the topic of the hour is about extensive waiting in hair salons across America?

Many women are fed up with waiting. A percentage has resolved to do it themselves, some have moved on to other salons where there is no waiting and there are still those who simply sit, complain and pay.

Like staying in a bad relationship, many have an ear full of excuses as to why they sit, complain and pay. Many have a familiar scenario of arriving to the salon on time with their iPad to kill some time until their name is called. Thirty minutes pass, they check the time on their iPad and keep reading the funny posts on Facebook. Forty minutes passes, another social network is being browsed and they are still waiting. Moments later they decide to ask the stylist how long before she will get started on their hair. The stylists smiles and responds, “Fifteen more minutes.” In the end, the fifteen more minutes has turned into thirty five more minutes. Approximately one hour and half after your arrival, your stylist has her assistant start your salon service.

As you lay back in the shampoo bowl to have your hair shampooed, you think to yourself, “Something about this feels all too familiar.” Is it a bad relationship or that awful cell phone contract you previously signed? You know, promising you something and not following through? What about, baiting you with something wonderful as you sign the agreement; only to be left void? Or how about getting all excited and anticipating something new; only to be disappointed with their mediocre tokens let downs and nothing. You question, are you being un-grateful? Are your expectations too high and so on and so forth?  As your stylist begins to blow dry your hair, you have an “Aha” moment! “Who waits,” is your incessant thoughts as you gently nod to yourself. Your stylist pauses and asks if you are okay. You respond, yes with the undertone of why wouldn’t you be? The stylist proceeds with the service, your hair looks magnificent. You pay her the money; thank her for the service and leave.

On the drive home, initially you want to call someone and tell them of yet another wretched salon visit as a result of waiting too long. You tap the end icon on phone’s screen and say to yourself. “If I can end a bad relationship that went awry and terminate a cell phone service based off of lies, empty promises and thrill-less frills; surely I can end this business relationship with my stylist who has very little respect for my time, sense of importance and hard earned dollars.” “I’m paying for speed and accuracy and that is what I expect.” At that pivotal moment, you know you will not be returning to that stylist and you have no reason why you will not let her know.

The scenario above is an all too familiar experience for many who visit hair salons. Many people have often referred the relationship with their stylist like one of a dysfunctional relationship and a bad cell phone contract. In the end, you conclude that you stayed in it (the business relationship with their stylist) too long. Many had crossed the lines of customer to stylist relationship by way of disclosing personal challenges and triumphs and lost focus of the business relationship that was in place due to monies being exchanged for services. “That's my girl,” became the unspoken contract between the stylist and their customer. For many as long as the hairstyle (man/relationship) was intact; all was well, right? Wrong.

As a licensed professional cosmetologist, I am often perplexed by cosmetologists that makes their paying, returning and referring customers wait. Where does my perplexity come from? Um, in case you did not know; cosmetology is a time conscious career. We need certain things to arrive, sit, develop, process and pay on something called….ahem, TIME! I urge you to attempt to not have payment in full at the end of that salon visit. Oh boy. It is like the Incredible Hulk. "Don't make me angry. You won't like me when I get angry!"

In the world of work, time, speed and accuracy is what gives work and pay value. The more you are on time, the faster you are, the more intelligent your application is to your job; more pay on time is expected. When a cosmetologist does your hair, they expect to be paid on time. And when you as the customer arrive; you expect to be seen on time because you are going to pay on time. Gone are the days of waiting. Everything is quick, instant and fast. Salon services are not exempt from what makes things worthy of their price tags. Rather it's a BMW, a cell phone or a credit card transaction; today timing, speed and accuracy is what gives things (expensive and inexpensive) value. Imagine waiting twenty seconds for a phone call to connect, or twenty five seconds for your computer to load, or thirty seconds for McDonald's to pass that Fish Filet through that window, oh and heavens to mercatroy if your debit card transactions takes longer than five seconds. The first thing that comes to a cosmetologist's (excuse me, a person's) mind is, "What, why is this taking so long?"

Wait, wonder and pay; who does that?

The Golden Time of Day

Sandra to the right and her lovely daughter!

As a cosmetologist, I have to admit there are a few things that really make my day at work, for example punctual patrons, smiling patrons, patrons who refer and patrons who learn how to do their own hair. Are you surprised?

Upon becoming a cosmetologist I was surprised by the number of women who did not know how to do their own hair. But then I had to ask myself, “When did my mom turn me loose to my own hair?” I will not divulge that in this article, that would require me to write another one! Contrary to rumor, there are many women who do not know how to care for and style their own hair. Many with textured hair were forbidden by their fathers to cut it and mothers to even comb it. So the natural hair care phenomena that continues to ripple across the nation is ever increasing because for the first time women can stand up, speak out and declare what they really want. What many women want is to learn how to do it themselves.

I decided to make “learning how to style your own hair and debunking hair care myths” my business. I am the first to admit that I am not the best hair stylist but I am a great teacher full of information who is willing to share what I know to help liberate girls, teens, women and everyone in between. The ability to care for and style one’s hair is innate, but not a natural talent for most. I use my profession to teach women step by step what they need to do in between salon visits to ensure the hair that grows all day every day one is alive on the head stays there.

Let me refer to my subject, Sandra Golden. Sandra was the least likely client who desired to go natural let alone do her own hair. In the beginning, I start off by educating every client about their unique fabric. This part of my day at work is the most fascinating because so many women do not know their true hair fabric. And many truly believe their unique fabric is unique in a bad bondage suffering and punitive fabric. For many, as their hair stylist (next to Big Momma, Granny and so on), I was the first to tell them that their hair fabric is unique and beautiful just like themselves. So Sandra, like the others was quite flattered but not impressed; yet appreciative of my honesty.

Seligman and Pavlov's Salivating Dog Experiment

After months (for most years) of consistently un-doing all the bad and wrong information with the help of my colleagues, visual aids, hand-outs and books the transformation of “my hair is as beautiful as I am” begins. Next for Sandra and others I begin a gradual process of introducing them to their hair via touching it, combing and simply looking at their hair in the mirror. How fascinating is this for many. Sandra was in awe of how beautiful hair felt and looked. She could not find the words to decipher the difference between what she saw in the mirror to what she felt in real life. After that, the true concern of the cost of the salon visit. I always use this as my introduction as “the time” to let go of the relaxer. Convincing women to let go of the relaxer always reminds me of Martin E.P Seligman and Ivan Pavlov  “Pavlov’s Salivating Dog.” The learned helplessness theory is so prevalent in hair care for those with textured hair. Letting go of that relaxer is like when Pavlov opened that cage, the dog would not go out. The same can be said for letting go of the relaxer. Many women can now be free to be but for the love of hair; they will hold on to what they really want to let go of for so many reasons that  too would require another blog!

Sandra had one hundred excuses why she could not let go of the relaxer which would obviously free her time and money up to begin a small savings for the future and free her time from the salon to enjoy life doing other things. Her biggest and most real concern was the constant sweating brought on by the “M” word! Menopause and the other real concern, that she simply could not care for and do her own hair. So the next thing to do was to teach her how to live with her sweating and teach her how to style her own hair.

Now if ever there was a journey; this was it. For about six years Sandra toiled, tangled, fought and fussed her way to a love affair with her hair. I can recall countless times when Sandra longed for a simple was gray reduction color service that required a speedy and unique color application and walk out the door. Again for years, I would consistently tell her that is a very do-able salon visit, but visit after visit she would deny herself the opportunity to be free and walk out the "hair care bondage" cage like the Learned Helplessness Experiment and remained in the “hair care bondage” cage.

During the summer of 2011 Sandra finally gave in and began to attempt a few wash and wear hair styles. Did I mention she also traveled one fourth way across the state of Ohio for these unique fibers too! So, last week guess who walked into the salon, requested her gray reduction hair color service and walked out with four plats in her hair to take down later and wear it natural….Sandra!

I swear it was an “Oprah tearful” moment for me. I was so overjoyed that Sandra’s love affair with her hair turned into love of her hair. She walked out the freaking cage!  Pavlov don't have to ring that bell…LOL!

We all know every love and triumph story has a theme song somewhere playing in the background. Sandra Golden’s theme song would be The Goldent Time of Day by the legendary Maze featuring Frankie Beverly. A verse of the song goes, “People let me tell you there’s a time in your life when you find who you are; that’ the golden time of day. And in your mind you will find you’re a bright shining star; woo that’s the golden time of day…. and Frankie Beverly bellows out the song as Maze plays melodically alone. Can’t you picture Sandra cruising her car with the wind blowing through her hair as she peeps at herself in the side mirror blasting this song in the background?

So I write this blog in honor of Sandra Golden’s Time of Day.