Sunday, December 18, 2011

A Curl's Gotta Do What a Curl's Gotta Do


Oh no, not again!
 Don’t you just love when you finally get to go on a date with someone you have been attracted to for quite some time? In your mind, you imagine exactly how the date will go. You get off work, you decide you are not going to dress up and put on airs. Instead, he has to like you as you are, so do a little wiggle to fit into your tight but not so tight jeans, a little cleavage, nice silver hoops, a little trunk jewelry, light on the make-up, heavy on the eyeliner and not too glossy on the lip gloss. Oh yeah a nice spritz of Viktor & Rolf’s Flowerbomb. Now all you have to do is freshen up your….WTF!

Say it ain’t so. Of all days, your hair once again does the “not act right” thing. Unfortunately, it would be on the night of thee date. You look in the mirror in disgust. This is not a night for your straight hair to begin to frizz and convert back. What is a curl to do? Well don’t cancel the date; continue to read this blog

When it comes to textured hair; it is very unpredictable and unmanageable naturally. Textured hair comes in 4 different types; curly, wavy, kinky and afro. After I share some common mistakes made with textured hair, I will provide some solutions that (with practice) will provide some practical solutions and keep you smooth for a date and any other occassion.

First things first, many people truly believe curly, wavy, kinky and Afro textures are the same. Often times beauty editors, parents and even licensed professionals confuse the varying textures. They simply clump them into one category. With that being addressed, let me make this abundantly clear; in no way shape, form or fashion are curly, wavy, kinky and afro textures of hair are the same. 

If you have read my some of my other blogs, then you are aware that I always educate my readers that hair is skin. So, just as you purchase your skin care products according to your skin types; oily, dry, aging, acne or combination. You should do the same for your hair. This may seem unrealistic, but in reality that is the best way to make the right purchase and get the best bang for your buck. Wording on the products helps you make the best choice. Remember the companies are trying to sell you something; as a result the wording can be misleading. Words like “natural hair,” “women of color,” “textured hair” and the likes confuse anxious and frustrated consumers. Buyer beware; every person of color do not have the same hair. Race, a la’ the color of your skin contributes to the texture of your hair. However, it is not the determining factor. Your genetics are. Do not fall for the okey doke! As a result, be sure to read the bottle first. Do not be tricked by fancy marketing that have catch words and savvy photos.

Second, in case you did not know, when a chemist formulates a product for hair; the last thing on his mind is the color of the person’s skin. The same can be said for the makers of soap and toothpaste. Any soap will clean skin, just as any toothpaste will clean teeth. The trick is when specific issues are in demand; you will have to make your product selection more refined. Folks in the marketing business goal are to make that refined selection process quick and easy. So that is when the hair care companies fancy marketing, photo shoots, promotional campaigns and advertising comes into play. Chemists formulate and the owners of the formulation/product make the product have what I call, “sales appeal.” The primary function of any hair care company is to make money. So once the chemist does his thing; he gets his paycheck and he is gone. Understand; that all hair care companies are not created equal.

Third, now that you are aware of the game, a consultation to get the right analysis of your hair’s texture is order. Make an appointment with your stylist to receive a detailed consultation to find out your hair’s unique fabric. Be leery of a cosmetologist who simply looks at your hair, pick a piece out and tell you that you have coarse hair. Coarse is another word that is used generically like textured, natural, ethnic and women of color. The term Coarse used to describe a file or fabric is very different from the definition of Coarse used in the world of cosmetology. Coarse means strong as in strength; not as in texture.

Fourth, styling with the right product and the right technique makes a hell of a difference. With practice, curly, wavy, kinky and Afro hair needs to be shampooed at least once every 4 to 9 days. This texture of hair does not need to be shampooed as frequently as straight hair. The more curly, wavy, kinky and Afro hair is shampooed, the dryer is will be. The dryer the hair; the more it will convert, swell and make poof happen! Pomades and oils work best with these hair textures versus serums, silicones and spray oils. So, start by adding dime size amounts at a time to reduce unwanted oily weighed down tresses. If long lasting straight hair is what you truly desire; a lot of heat will be needed to tame those curl, wave, and kink and Afro fibers. Yes, that is right. 430-450 degrees of heat will ensure that the hair will not convert back. If enough pomade or oil is added, hair will stay straight until it is shampooed out. In case you are wondering what kind of oils, to keep from having to read another blog…lol; I recommend any food grade oil (yes, the kind you eat) in a dime size amount. As for pomades, I recommend any vintage brand such as NuNile, Sweet Georgia Brown and Ultra Sheen’s Yellow Pressing Pomade to name a few. Be sure to flat iron your hair in 1/8th inch sections. Do not even tempt or cheat by using larger sections. If you do, your hair will convert back. Comb your hair frequently throughout the day to reduce swelling and frizz.

A quick recap, if you are unsure of the correct texture and type of hair you have; get a professional consultation, refrain from making hair care purchases according to your race, be sure the wording on the bottle describes your hair texture and type, keep it clean, use a pomade versus a serum, use very hot flat irons, smooth small sections and comb your hair frequently throughout the day. 

Will that guarantee that your curly, wavy, kinky or Afro tresses will not convert back? Maybe, maybe not. But then and again, a curl’s gotta do what a curl’s gotta do!