Protective Hairstyles Advice

America is fascinated with fear.

America. Ah, the land of the free and the home of the brave! Right? Wrong. We might be free, but we most certainly are not brave. While some are brave in fighting the enemies in war to protect our homeland, others are not when it comes to having some heart to fight the ignorance and care for their hair. 

As a cosmetologist, fear in hair care behooves me. To be honest, it was working with women who were afraid of their own hair while working as a social worker is what got me behind the chair in the first place. 

Exhibit A - The famous coveted "protective
silk" scarf.

Yep, during my social work days I can not tell you how many women had children services involved in their homes for lack of hair care, abuse with hair care, trafficking drugs for hair, fighting over hair, stealing hair; they got into all kinds of mischiefs about hair. Well, everything but caring for their hair or their children's hair themselves. Why? I asked myself that question on several occasions. 

The same answer I got over 15 years ago is the same answer I get today. Fear. Don't get me wrong, America is a great place to live. However, if there is one thing I would like to change about our country, it would be our abuse and misuse of fear. Quite naturally in some instances. fear serves a great purpose. Like when there is a bear, you broke your momma's lamp or your water broke. We all can agree, a good dose of fear comes naturally and quickly in those examples. Yet, when it comes to hair, why is there so much fear?

In this blog, I will take on the fear that many women have in caring for their hair under the guise of "protective hairstyles." Yes lawd, these people with this natural hair movement need to go somewhere and sit down. I get the natural part, but the movement throws me. For starters, the guise of "protective hairstyles" that are being promoted by this natural hair movement is moving people in the wrong direction in many instances. Because this topic can get long. I will briefly cover 3 ways that "protective styles" within the natural hair movement, unknowingly promoting "NO HAIR CARE." 

Exhibit B - The most recent "protective" hairstyle, "Latch Hook" braid style.

The first way is fear. There are many women out there who are abandoning hair care in the name of protection for fear. They actually believe that if they comb, can't comb it, wash it, use sulfates, use man made products that their hair will fall out. That is not true. Have no fear because "protective hair styles" are just a fancy way of saying, "keep your hand out of your hair." That concept works great for those who just won't stop combing, weaving, styling, coloring, relaxing and everything in between every time you turn around with their hair. Yes, braiding it up will temporarily suffice. 

The "temporarily suffice" leads me to the second way that the "protective hairstyling" is unknowingly promoting fear and a clique mania within the natural hair movement. Protective hairstyles purpose is to physically cover the hair to reduce friction that often causes breakage and loss of length. Protective hairstyles do not clean hair. Nor does protective hairstyles fortify and reconstruct hair. If protective styles in all its array of choices are your prerogative to protect and grow your hair...then; "Do what you wanna do!" (In my Bobby Brown voice). Protective hairstyles simply cover your hair. Nothing more and nothing less.

But, make no mistake protecting and growing hair will never result in strong, fortified hair that will withstand the rigors of manipulating hair in its many ways. Manipulating hair is typically done via braiding, wrapping, flat ironing, combing, brushing, wearing a scarf, chemically altering it, getting it wet and so on. Hair needs protein to fortify the second layer of hair to keep it strong enough to handle manipulating it. Hair also needs reconstructors to repair the cuticle layer which is responsible for the shine and feel on our hair.

How many braids do we braid on a daily?
Me say, "Money, I mean many many many!"

The third and final problem with the promotion of "protective hair styling" is cleanliness. Next to dehydration, nothing weakens and compromises hair in every way imaginable than dirty hair. Keeping your hair covered, braided or with weaves to keep your hands out of it to keep from breaking your hair off and losing your length is understandable. However, what you really need to understand is that the yeast, dirt, and growing bacteria is the perfect breeding ground for hair eating and follicle (the tiny hole that your hair grows from) compromising micro-organisms that will always result in weak, limp, damaged, over processed, lackluster, thinning, smelly, scaly scalp, lice, and nit infested hair. That is; when you take it down.

I so get the importance of embracing what God gave you by way of hair texture. But what good will pointing out the beauty of your God given hair (regardless your race, texture and length) if you do not wash it properly with the correct products formulated for your unique hair fabric? What good is protecting your natural hair if you cover it, braid it or  "weave" it and you will not wash it and fortify it? What good is it to boast and brag about being natural and going natural when you are too busy to care for it? What good is it to be "natural" if you do not want to learn how to do it yourself or invest in someone who can?

Hair nits. The struggle is real. Do not use hair straight
from the package. Clean the artificial hair first.

I will reiterate how I get the movement. I understand. I too promote braiding it, covering it , and weaving it. But, where the movement is going and who are allowed to go on it, remains something of an enigma to me? Using fear and ignorance, coupled with unresponsible leadership will continue to move those with hair in the illusive wrong direction of protective styles that require no care, no treatment, no cleaning, no nothing; well not at least for 3 weeks to 3 months. That will never suffice and result in strong shainy hair. 

In closing, would you Google a movement, followed its directions and buty their endorsed products to protect your vagina like that?

Exactly!

How to Care for My Hair?

Girl bye...

I often hear that being a cosmetologist is similar to being a psychologist or therapist. Hmph, I beg to differ. Being a cosmetologist is more like being an audience member at a comedy show. While it is true that people do share some interesting problems to us, no problem they share compares to the funny stories they tell. The funny stories they tell about haircare ranks up there with the scene in "Blades of Glory" when Will Ferrell is explaining why use uses "Mane and Tail" shampoo and how he brushes his hair with his special brush 100 times each night...lol Go YouTube it!

In this blog ndogo, I will highlight some of the craziest things I have heard in the name of hair care.  

Love, peace and hair grease!

Understand that for many, cultural practices along with good old fashioned trial and error, plays a pivotal role in the humor of it all. The examples that I find humorous are no attempt to directly or indirectly offend anyone, any culture, any practice or any hair texture. So, read along. Maybe you will get a laugh too!

All right now, here we go!

Starting with the crazy over use of GREASE. OMG! When asked why? The response typically goes like this, "Ladosha, the reason I have so much grease in my hair is because I am trying to keep my hair from feeling so dry!" LOL, you can stop laughing or nodding now! Ok, seriously people, grease will never bring moisture to hair. Grease (of any and all makes) coats your hair. Grease is actually an anti-humectant. So, the more grease/mineral oil you use on your hair, the dryer, more brittle and gritty your hair will feel. How could this be, you ask? Because most greases are made from petroleum. Petroleum will NEVER attract moisture. It coats hair and skin. It sits on top and the toxic waste is absorbed into your skin making your body work hard to get rid of it. Even if you put a plastic cap on it! The minute you take that cap off and your hair or feet dries; both will feel dryer after a few hours. People, do not try this at home or any place else. Grease and synthetic oils are great conductors of heat (though they do burn off, just press the gas pedal on your car). It also adds sheen. If you want moist hair you will need to drink more water and use a product like Decca Plus' Satin Tame. It has ingredients in it to bind moisture, strengthen it, seal the cuticles to keep textured tress from tangling (yeah boyee) and keep hair feeling supple. It does not over soften to compromise texture. It does not coat hair making it feel wet or gooey.

Don't believe the hype.

Next up is the crazy CO-WASH hog wash. What the ham sammich is going on? There are so many hair stylists wondering how are people falling for this. Often when I observe the scalp of a new client during my scalp and hair analysis, I notice what looks like cottage cheese or yogurt on the scalp. When I ask what is going on with your hair? The typical response is, "Oh, Ladosha I went on YOUTUBE and learned about a better way to clean my hair.  It does not have any sulfates and all those other harsh ingredients. It's called co-washing" Ooooh kaaaaay. Again, what the ham sammich is this nonsense? "Listen honey, listen!" The detangling benefits of co-washing often over soften hair after extended use. Leaves a stinch on the hair liken to Peppy Le Pew. And a coating that only Dawn dishwashing liquid can remove. No shampoo on the market and cleanse the scalp and hair effectively of this kind of product. Co-washing your hair is the equivalent  of washing up with lotion. Enough said.

The next crazy attempt done in the name of hair care is the INVERSION METHOD. Yes, it is true that blood flow is essential to the health and growth of hair. You can increase blood flow to the scalp by way of massaging the scalp, brushing to stimulate the scalp, medication, stimulating essential oils (i.e. peppermint, camphor, tea true and the likes), and electric scalp massagers, infrared lights and now "thee" inversion method! The inversion method was accidentally discovered by the original medicine man, Hippocrates. He was using this technique for back problems and accidentally discovered that folks hair was growing. So basically, the name tells it all.  The Inversion Method requires that you hang upside down (hence inversion) or at a certain angle one lays to get the blood flow to the scalp. Anybody can do it, except people who have the following:

Upside down, hair you turn me (in my Diana Ross voice)!

• Low or High blood 
• Detached retina (duuude!)
• Ear infection
• Spinal injury
• Heart or circulatory problems
• Pregnacy (do they really need  warning...lol)
• Hernia
• Obesity (oh well, that excludes me...lol)
• Unhealed fractures or injuries
• Recent Stroke
• Migranes

In the infamous words of one zany crazy comedian, Judy Tenuta, 'It could happen!"

Read the ticker...water, oil/butters and a plastic cap
will not make hair grow.

Next, the crazy thing done in the name of hair care is the GHE a.k.a the Green House Effect for hair. It was created by Mika Lishauna. Again, the name says it all. This one here...SMH. Again, there are some of us hair stylists who just don't get it. I like the analogy of plant care to follicle care...but-ter-umm.  Ok, so in theory the concept is to mimic the effects of what a green house does for plants to hair. GHE instructs users to do 3 things. One, spritz hair with water until damp. Two, apply oil or butter (shea or coconut) to hair and three, cover hair with a plastic cap leaving it on overnight or as long as you can. In the morning style your hair in a non-heat hair style and at night place the cap back on your head to start all over again. According to my readings, the GHE technique was created "to increase blood flow that stimulates hair follicles and raises your hair growth rate." Now I don't know Mika and I most certainly do not know Monica of the "Curly Hair Lounge" blog that I got my quote from; but-er-ummmm. "blood flow" by no stretch of the imagination can NOT come from misting water onto hair, adding oils/butter and then placing a plastic cap on your head for as long as you can. To promote growth for hair all you need is a sound diet, water, bowel movements. And according to Mr. Charles Truss of Decca Plus hair care cleansing, nourishing and circulation will most definitely suffice. Second, humans are wired to only grow about 1/4 inch per month give or take a few millimeters. It ain't happenin' people. Not even with a time lapsed camera attached to your re-qrowth to capture the growth.

Another one, the "PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLES" craze.  Did the Beetles just return to the US from Britain? LOL! This latest craze in hair care is sweeping the globe. Yet, I don't know about this one either. Back in the day in the day we use to just call them french braids, cornrows, plats, wigs or my favorite, "keep yo hands out yo hair!" As for protection, a hat will protect...lol 

Throwback Protective Style formerly known as BRAIDS!

At this point, I'm like Lawrence Fishbourne in"School Daze," Waaaaaaaake up! You can use any word you want. Anytime you stop yanking on it and being heavy handed or aggressive with your styling techniques you won't need protection. Just a new habit!

But wait, there's more. The crazy, zany over rated "NATURAL HAIR" movement. Oh lort! Do not sip tea or do a lap for Jesus! The Pink Panthers were a movement. Ditching your relaxer is not a movement. It is a choice. Listen my dear readers...If it grows from your scalp; it IS natural. For the record whenever, however and with whatever we apply to our hair and skin; we are indeed altering it. Hair is a living pliable fabric that you can do some pretty cool things to. But that does not mean it is any less natural if you alter it in any facet. And for all the licensed pros jumping on this cash cow train to the bank, you should be ashamed of yourselves. Customers are asking, "Shouldn't they have beein making the decision to improve my hair texture on their own with educations and training without the influence of the internet?" These women out here are not stupid. That is why many do not trust or do business with licensed professionals.

Y'all know about The Mack...lol

In conclusion, if you find yourself navigating to the latest trend or hype in hair care and growth, ask yourself, "Who's the mack?" Don't fall for the okey doke. Remember, it only takes 3 steps to promote growth and the health of hair. "Cleanse, nourish and circulation." I suggest you couple those three simple steps with the proper styling tools, caring hands and your natural hair is gonna be alright. While some hair textures and hair styles require more time than others...hey, it what it is; hair!

Protective Hairstyling

Protection?

Let me get this right, first there was a re-introduction to alternative hair styling when the most coveted outspoken Change Agent Extraordinaire, my shero sister Taliah Waajid stepped in on the hair care and hair styling scene back in the late 90's. She enlightened and collaborated with the masses in ways no one could imagine on natural, loc and twist hair styling to name a few. Shortly afterwards, Dr. JoAnne Cornwell, owner and inventor of Sisterlocks blew the California courts and state board of cosmetology out of the water when she won her unprecedented law suit for her patented "I will sue the french toast outta you if you use my technique without my permission" Sisterlocks. (I love this country!) Then the Africans entered the industry without a license and began making a lot of money to add hair and braid it because American hair stylists frowned upon and refused to do the ancient practice of cornrow braiding and adding hair. I even joined the Ohio State Board to stop them; only to find out the Ohio State Board never even taught cornrow braiding or adding hair extensions in the first place. SMH, go figure. 

Change Agent Extraordinaire

Then came the infamous now "all of a sudden" hairline snatching edge puller outer with that Naomi Campbell picture popping up everywhere, lace front wigs. Next up, the "creamy crack." And yet another comedian, Chris Rock, puts the smack down on hair styling. This time, it is the once popular salon chemical service for textured hair called, "the relaxer." Just as Eddie Murphy did the Jheri curl in "Coming to America," Chris Rock did it to weaves and the relaxer. That documentary exposed the masses to how just about every textured hair woman of color went running across the globe, clicking onto every website and going to every corner store in America and even putting it in the layaway to get the famed "bulk" of exotic "Good Hair" weave...roflmbao. To stay on course, what do you think followed next? The "transitioning of hair" games began. That is right my fellow hair care junkie readers, women around the world ditched their chemically overprocessed tresses for the "no price is to high" natural hair. I don't get it. It grows from the scalp for free; yet "natural" hair care product manufacturers are generating more money than chemical relaxers and hair weave makers could ever dream of.  Now, I type this blog on yet another hair craze. Another hair craze that is unfortunately, again, only targeted to women with textured hair with emphasis on women of color; protective hair styling. "Ayeeeeee," I say as I pull out my hair! Black people. My people. Why?

Funny thing, as I was doing some research on protective hair styles, I decided to look up the definition of "protective." The dictionary defines protective as "giving or capable of giving protection." 

Yet when you use the word "protective" with hair styling, many translate that into not doing anything to hair to protect it from grooming. When I first entered the profession of cosmetology there was a big to do on hair styling. I mean women were really into getting their hair coiffured. From curls, waves, up-do's, spikes, flips and the whole nine yards. Then the introduction of computers and the internet changed the way women viewed themselves. How? Well it gave them a glimpse into beauty and hair care from around the world and behind the scenes. The computer and the internet did things licensed hair stylists would not do. Communicate. 

The reality of what others were doing, not doing, saying and not saying world wide angered, disappointed and for many liberated them from hair styling. However, you know how the cliche' goes, "if it sounds too good to be true; it usually is." Best believe there are a plentiful of "it's" in hair care. The biggest "it" in hair care today is the misrepresentation of hair care. 

In no other profession do I see such a vast amount of "jumping on the wagon" like I see in hair care. In other professions, honesty is the best policy. For example, let us examine the medical field. While most doctors are not exercise physiologists; they do agree that the safest and most effective ways to lose weight is to either eat less, exercise more or do both. While there are doctors who prescribe pills and surgeons who perform surgeries to aid in the process for those who may be a tad bit more challenged than others; the representation of the truth in the battle of the bulge is honesty. There is a consensus among all interested and concerned that coupling balanced nutrition with routine fitness is best. 

In the profession of cosmetology that is not the case. There remains no consensus in the caring of hair. Even though trail blazers like Madame CJ Walker, Taliah Wajiid and Dr. JoAnne Cornwell has dedicated their lives to promoting hair care to those of any race with textured hair to do; many do not. Take the case of the latest crazy phenomenon sweeping the industry; "protective hair styling." Bewilderment is the first word that comes to mind. I mean they are hashtagging this stuff. Make no mistake, there are some hair styling techniques that obviously compromise hair. But we are not talking damaged hair, we are talking hair care. Hair care is "doing" something to your hair in a timely organized fashioned to ensure that it at least clean and groomed. Can that be a consensus that we all agree upon? Everything else in between, we're just gonna call it, extra. To care for hair is to protect hair. 

There are not to many of hair styles that require no or very little maintenance. The only two I can think of are braids and perms (Jheri curls and Ogilvie)! And in those two hair styles if you do not care for them in a timely fashion, permanent hair damage or hair loss is almost always the result. 

So what are folk to do? Make the time to take the time to care for your hair. While some people can do no more than brush their hair because they are hair care and style challenged.  Others can care for their hair and style their hair better than a licensed hair stylist. What ever the case, you have to find a happy medium.  A hair care regimen is equally as important as caring for your teeth and other body parts (if ya know what I mean). Do not be duped by these self taught, angry and unscrupulous hustling money seeking individuals who are not taking into consideration two very important factors. The first factor is, no two heads of hair are alike. The second important factor; they do not wake up with you in the morning. I do like the advantage of clicking a button to get a glimpse at "how to do" something to hair. However, the generic cookie cutter promotion of "black hair care" and "textured hair care" is crazy. You can watch any video you want. It is still not your hair. And your hair is different from who is in that video, on that picture and in your blood lines. You have to be involved with your hair.

How many times are you gonna fall for the lies?

Take it from a person who works behind the chair, writes books and blogs on  hair care, teaching hair care, travels the nation teaching women how to do it themselves (yep, I'm about that life) and one who does her own hair daily. I can tell you that if you opt to chose a "protective hair style" that keeps you from doing anything to your hair for more than two weeks; oh boy. Your hair will be compromised. The vicious cycle is on. Understand your hair is growing from an organ called a follicle every day all day. Yes every single strand of hair on your body has its own organ. While I will not type it again, feel free to re-read that sentence again. And can you think of any other organ or opening on your body that you would not tend to in some fashion for two weeks and it be "healthier" from not tending to it for over one week all in the spirit of "PROTECTION?" 

There is no bond like the one between
child and caregiver. None.

It is air apparent that these fads and trends are only targeted to Black people. Black people who hate their hair. Black people who do not want to wash their hair. Black people who do not make time to do their own chidlren's hair. Black people who are looking for something quick in hair care. These companies are making and marketing products to any and every Black consumer who fits that profile. In other races; their norms, practices and folkways is caring for their hair themselves. So they do not manufacture and market those kinds of products to them. They are not trying to escape the obvious...self love. Though every family, regardless of race have their own customs of hair care. In the history of hair care in Africa, hair care and styling was a ritual of bonding between daughter and mother, daughter and caregiver or the young and elder. It was a an esteemed privilege to be able "to do" someone's hair especially within the family. Also for the record, no where in the history of beautification in Africa is not doing your own hair documented as some sort of dignity. 

There is nothing "African" about not caring for hair your own hair. There is nothing "African" about not cleansing hair for weeks at a time.

For many reading this, that may come across as a bit harsh. It is. The human body. of any race or sex, in all its splendor: functions better, serves its purpose, smells awfully nice and looks damn good when we consistently and properly protect it by caring for it.

Amani.


Princess wave...

Not Hot Enough

Nothing came between Brooke and Calvin!

Remember when Levi's, Wranglers and Lee jeans were like khakis and corduroys? Boring. When designer jeans arrived on the fashion scene it was over. I even remember when the R&B funk group Cameo had a song, "Shake Your Pants." They had a verse dedicated to designer jeans letting you know that when you wore a pair, you were "dressed to kill." Jordache jeans were the "ish!" Then came Sassoon, then Gloria Vanderbilt and "Uh oh, Sergio's." But who can forget when Brooke Shields confessed to the world that nothing came between she and her Calvin Klein's? Along with looking nice in those designer jeans came the challenge of how to keep them looking like you just got them fresh off the rack. So the big question was, "to wash or not to wash?" Who can remember not wanting to ever wash your designer jeans because you did not want that rich indigo blue to fade on those stark white stitches" Sorry New Religion, but Calvin Klein ruled the scene way before you were a jean god. 

Whatchu know about dat...lol

In addition to questioning rather to wash them; you also questioned what kind of heat to use on them. You pondered, rather to put them in the washer or send them to cleaners? Hang dry or dryer? Steam or no steam? Starch or no starch? Niagara, Fautless or Stay Flo? For most, Niagara was always best. And if you were pressed for starch, your mom would teach you how to make some by using a lil flour and water...lol Now that's old school for you! The one thing you learned about designer jeans was that you had to have the right amount of heat to keep them soft, smooth and straight to preserve the fabric. And in determining that; it was unanimous that not enough heat, rather from the dryer or the iron proved disastrous!

Believe it or not, how to care for your denim (designer or not) is identical to the concept of hair care. Unlike blue jeans that all are cut from the same fabric, the same cannot be said for hair. Yet, you can apply the concept of fabric care to hair care. Provided you know what the fabric is FIRST and you follow the manufacturers instructions on the label; you can make it happen. Honestly, I see a lot of people putting cheap clothes and expensive garments in the cleaners that can easily be cared for AT HOME; like your hair. 

The trick to caring for your hair/fabric at home is to ask, "What is the most important part of caring for the fabric?" Is it the soap powder, the fabric softener, the bleach, the heat or the starch? Most come to the conclusion, if the fabric is not cleaned properly then there is no use in using any fabric softer, bleach, starch or heat. Again, the same can be asked of hair care and the response will pretty much be the same. If the hair is dirty; what's the point?

Hair like fabric, will not fit right or flow when it becomes soiled. Once the hair is clean and conditioned it will conduct heat safely. When straight and smooth is the goal, heat is the way to achieve it. Heat is responsible for how hair feels, looks and flows on your head just like heat affects how fabrics feel, look and flow on your body. Nothing, compromises the feel, look and flow of hair and fabric like not using enough heat. Both hair and fabrics will become damaged. If a cheap iron that leaks rust and sloughs off soot of some as it comes into contact with the hair or fabric. it too will compromise the health of the hair or fabric.

For mature audiences only.

Every time I hear someone say, "Heat is bad for hair." I immediately look at their clothes and go, "Oh. I see." Understand that if you have never had to do any laundry then understanding how hair is cleaned and cared for will be Greek to you. I am not only referring to the washing machine. I am making reference to having to wash your clothes by hand or on a scrub board or with rocks using the vary forms of soap. If you have never had to use any heat on clothes, then knowing and understanding how heat affects hair will be like Swahili to you. I am not referring to a Black and Decker iron heat . I am referring to the kinds of heat that can be used from irons you had to put on the gas stove, or a steamer, or hanging them in the sun to dry or even having to put your pants under the mattress (whatchu know about that)! Fabric care and the use of heat can be done using many forms. One thing's for certain and two things for sure; heat in some form is a absolute must when smooth and straight fabric is wanted. 

The thicker, the stronger, the more wrinkled the fabric; like hair the more heat is needed. In actuality, the less heat you use on hair that is textured or hair that is strong and thick; the more damage you will cause to your hair. Yep, I wrote it. Less heat is more damaging than too much heat. Again, most hair has 3 layers. The cuticle, cortex and medulla. Each strand of hair is mostly comprised cuticle scaly layers that look like shingles on a roof. The less heat you use to lay those shingles down; the more they will raise. The more they raise, the more the hair will not feel nice, look nice and flow nice. Instead, the hair will: frizz easily, feel gritty, revert quickly, appear dull, dusty, snap and rub out. Also it will not smooth and straighten evenly. 

Open cuticle-how ya hair looks when not enough heat is used.

Heat is your straight hair style's best friend . Like starch, there are a myriad of thermal and heat protectors to buff the cuticle layers from the heat, thus making it safe. There are also a myriad of thermal and heat protectors as well as heated styling tools (flat irons, curling irons, straightening combs, blow dryers, brushes) that makes hair conduct the heat more evenly and safe. Not using any form of heat protector is like not using starch or a fabric protector on those expensive blue jeans. The results are faded, dull jeans that tear very easily. 

Do you spend more money on fabrics
that are not on your head than the hair
fabric that grows from your scalp?

For life of me why people spend more money on fabrics of all kinds designed by the many talented clothing, shoe, wallet and purse designers than the hair that grows from their scalp; behooves me.  After all, clothes, shoes, wallets and purses are made of fabric too. People spend a lot of money to keep those designer/expensive clothes, shoe, wallets and purses looking new.  Your hair is attached to YOUR body. Those fabrics in their varying forms are not. Yet, many of people will go to that ECO friendly cleaners and buy that organic detergent. Yes, make no mistake they, too will put that bebe and Guess shirt in the cleaners, they will buy that UGG cleaner, that Coach bag cleaner and wipe that fabric down whenever salt or goo gets on them. Some will even make a special place in their closet and car for them. They will be sure to use heat or no heat at all if that is what the fabric calls for. Whatever the fabric requires; no amount of money is too much. After all, "You're worth it?" 

But when it comes to hair. I dunno? I see women spending any where from $50.00 to $400.00 on hair weave and then spend $4.99 on oil sheen to make it shine. "Houston, we have a problem." That makes no since. With the exception of those who can not grow hair or those who are pre-genetically determined to lose their hair, everyone has the ability to grow hair for FREE. I'm talking the kind of free hair that grows every single second of the day. And in that hair which is growing for free all day every day, there is some form of texture. There are many people with textured hair who actually like the option of being able to smooth and straighten it. Yet, there are these interesting "self taught, heat free movement people who do not know much about heat; let alone how to use it on hair" people who tell people that heat is bad for hair. Heat is not bad for hair. As a result of their messages about heat, many doubt the safety and purpose of heat on hair as it relates to a straightened hair style. 

Propaganda; A hustle?

Don't listen to those people. Do not make the mistake of trying to smooth out your textured hair, in any form, without enough heat. Damaged hair will be the result. Heat has been so safely used on hair, they even started schooling and businesses for it. It is called, Cosmetology. One, I am proud to represent professionally. I can tell you from personal and professional experience, hair remains on the heads of the many people world wide with all kinds of texture who use heat. Hair that is straightened converts back to its natural state of curly, wavy, kinky or Afro on the many many people who straighten it out. If they purposely or accidentally over process it while using heat; quality protein will revert damaged tresses in due time. All that talk about burning your hair, well;  If you accidentally scorch and burn a piece of hair here and there; don't fret. It will grow back. It's not that serious. 

This movement around: protective hair styles, heat free styles, natural hair styles, healthy hair, curly, hair, loc hair, braided hair, twisted hair, coiled hair, textured hair and any other kind of hair in between is propaganda in its purest form. It totes the line of sexism, racism and classism. It separates people. They mainly do things like show images of women with dark skin and woolen hair or use words like "women of color." Sometimes they single people out by using terms like "mixed, ethnic or bi-racial." These people are wrong. Perhaps they are in need money. They might need attention. Some may have a strong dislike for licensed hair stylists. Some may have had bad experiences with heat. Some don't want to sit through cosmetology school. I don't know, but they are out of line. It has been proven by many how race contributes to hair texture not determine. It also has been proven that heat smooths, not damage when used responsibly. This type of propaganda is nothing more than a hustle in every since of the swindling meaning. 

Keep it simple people. Do not make another click on YouTube about hair. You do not need to be a cosmetologist, hair stylist, trichologist, dermatologist, mom-ologist, YouTubeologist, loctician, natural hair guru or hair blogger or anybody in between to know that if it is not hot enough; blah is the result. Blah, damaged poof hair is the result to be exact. So if you want to straighten out your hair, do it. Just remember heat is safe and not enough heat is damaging.

Girl You Betta Watch Out

The Big Chop? Folk been chopping off
their hair!

As a cosmetologist who works behind the chair, teaches, speaks and collaborates with others in the hair care industry, I meet a lot of people who say to me, "I am interested in doing hair." Whenever I hear that, I always say, "Well, I suggest that if you wanna DO hair, get a mannequin."

I would be out of my hair styling mind if I seriously believed that every person who sits in my chair are looking for a hair "DO." The first thing I realized before I became a licensed cosmetologist was that women are very serious about their hair. They are not serious as it relates to looking good, cute, pretty, fine, gorgeous, sexy, better and all that jive. They are serious in as much as they TRUST us. When a woman (man, teen or child) sits in the chair of a licensed professional they are saying, "I trust you." There are a handful of licensed professionals who thinks that, "doing" hair is one of those careers where you can make fast cash and hide it from the IRS. Which is why I affectionately named this blog, "Girl, you better watch out!"

Remember this is my blog ndogo (small), so I'm going to get straight to the point. At the salon

Exactly what is a "natural" hairstylist?

(The Reverence Design Team Hair Salon) where I work at, we do not "do" hair.  We care for hair. As a team we teach and "do" things to care for your hair as well as your image to provide the ultimate salon experience which results in a great hair doo. So, girl you better watch out for these self appointed professionals who profess to be experts at things that made their debut as a trend. Why? Because ultimately after you have your hair serviced to receive any type of service, be it natural, synthetic, organic or chemical; you are ultimately still paying for a hair style. The trending of natural hair, healthy hair, organic hair, chemical free hair is just that a trend. Natural hair, healthy hair, organic hair care and chemical free hair has ALWAYS been staples in most salons. With the paradigm shift in beauty being half for textured and the other half straight; money hungry hair care companies with their savvy marketers as well as money hungry hair styling swindlers are capitalizing on one's desire to change their hair as they see.  

Hair Extension ad.

Girl, you betta watch out for the hair stylist who is quick to jump on any sort of trend. I am not against trends. Trends in the industry are good. They keep us moving, growing and help us look different. The trend now is natural hair versus hair weave and chemically altered hair. Unfortunately, the education is not catching up fast enough to the money making ventures. As a result, hair stylists are at anxious or some times forced to meet the demand by teaching themselves. In the meantime, the manufacturers of hair and hair care products are limiting what education they offer (if any) to supply the demand. In return, that puts both the consumer and hair stylists at risk.

Hair care companies (manufacturers of hair weave as well) view the hairstylist and their customers as the same? There are absolutely no requirements for any one to buy weave, sell weave or apply weave. There is no need to quote a statistic or research. Just go to one of their websites. To meet and create the demand, these companies are selling de-scalped hair. They are calling this cut and de-scalped hair "real human" Remy, Brazilian, Peruvian, Indian, Polynesian and any other "ian"  hair to both the consumer and the licensed professional? Tisk (teeth sucking) come on, don't give me that (in my Biz Markie voice)!  Consumers actually believe they are paying for "real" hair. If it does not grow from your scalp (regardless the bulk, weft or track); it is fake. Real human hair grows from a living human body. Hair texture is pre-genetically determined and hair is biologically categorized by texture (curly, kinky, wavy or straight) not race (Brazilian, Peruvian, Indian and so on). How are women world wide falling for that kind of savvy marketing that was more than likely put together by a man who does not even have hair? You betta watch out for that kind of #trending. 

Girl, you betta watch out for front laced weaves. Now, all of a sudden the "glue in" weave, the dreadful, cancer causing; the "dun dun dun dun"

Exploited Countess Vaghn

bastard of all weaves, "Front Laced" wigs. Yes, they (licensed, untrained and unlicensed people) are about to do "front laced" what they did to the "creamy cracked" relaxer. Because they have permanently disfigured folk and made some permanently lose their hair, they are about to pass the blame on the glue. Knowing they had a responsibility to learn about every aspect of that service. Now the media with their licensed experienced talk show experts have exploited poor Countess Vaughn's image beyond repair. Seriously people? She consents to an expose' on the dangers of hair glue (medical adhesives, bonding and the likes) but at NO point does any of those million dollar making talk show doctors (you those highly educated and trained professionals) bring up the reality that licensed professionals in the United States need to be required to get at least half the education of a doctor (if not more). Considering all the varying medication people take that affect their hair and walk into a salon for service. Considering all chemicals hairstylists use, touch, exchange, roll, inhale, rub, slather, smooth, apply, wash, blow dry, press, flat, iron, and  curl daily for a minimum of 4 hours per day for 3-7 days per week?  

Is a relaxer a perm or is a perm a relaxer?

Girl, you betta watch ou! For your hair stylist has very little, if any, education on any sort of chemistry or science of hair and hair care products ingredients. They have no clue about the chemical make up and reaction about most things they use and put on your hair. We are not taught the chemistry on natural, organic or synthetic science of what we use. The most common understanding one may have about hair glue is that some people are allergic to it. Licensed professionals only know what the companies tell them about the products and hair weave they just bought. Keep in mind that your hair is not a product or accessory that you can return. Your hair and it's texture is assigned to you in-vitro. It has a genetic code that is uniquely passed to you from your parents. The mind rape, cultural rape and swap of what textured hair is and where it really comes from, is NOT hidden. The marketing mavens who the hair care companies hire are overt. They are very much in the open about what they are doing. The mind and cultural rape of hair texture has many denying their genetic assignment. Without knowing it, people are removing their parents from their image and replacing what their parents biologically gave them. They are denying their parents and replacing their genetically assigned hair with the beauty supply stores and the hair stylists for new "real human" hair. A beauty supply store and a hair stylist can not give you the hair TEXTURE you were not born with. All they can do is exchange what you want to change about your hair for change, if ya know what I mean. IJS

Since when does the prefix "co" means
in lieu of?

Girl, you betta watch out for that "natural" hair stylist. Remember that is the same hair stylist who said relaxers where the "whip." She/he is the same person who re-booked your chemical services every 4-6 weeks and would have the audacity to penalize you if you did not keep your "touch-up" appointment. She/he is the same stylist who called the perm, the relaxer, the relaxer the perm and the relaxer the creamy crack. Now the stylist is natural. Girl, you betta watch out. The same stylist now promotes, yet, another trend: CO-WASHING. "Co" means to assist. So if one was to apply conditioner to their hair to help detangle the snarls and kinks and then shampoo their hair. I'm all in. Only in the hair care industry do we change the meaning of a word like "co" to "in lieu of."  I challenge you, the reader of this blog, to turn that bottle of conditioner around, call that 1-800 number and ask the associate on the other end of the phone can you "wash" your hair with their conditioner instead of soap? Trends, schmends. I can not wait to see the research in a few years about the hidden dangers of co-washing!

Girl, you betta watch out because she/he is the same stylist that is saying permanent color is 

A rinse still chemically alters the color
of your hair.

bad for your hair. This hairstylist insists that the "rinse" is a safer. She says the "rinse" is a hair color that would rinse out. Now all of a sudden, that same stylist and others alike can not explain why that "rinse" will not rinse out. They can not explain why your gray hair has a murky metallic color of some sort. They can not explain nor do they know how to remove this safe color called a "rinse" from your hair. Really? 

Girl, you betta watch out. Those kinds of stylists are only about....that thang; that thang; that tha-a-ang!