Showing posts with label protective hair styles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label protective hair styles. Show all posts

Friday, January 1, 2016

5 Worst Techniques in Hair Care

January 1st marks the 7th day of Kwanzaa. Kwanzaa is a celebration of family, community, and culture. Founded by Dr. Maulana Karenga, he provides 7 Principles of the Nguzo Saba for us to live life more purposefully. Wouldn't it be nice if we had 7 Principles of Hair Care?

Well, after I count down the Top 5 Worse Techniques Hair Care in 2015, I think I just might develop a few principles in hair care myself. 

The rise of textured hair has returned to the spotlight once again, and I think this time it is here to stay. As a reader of my blog, you probably know by now that I have a serious disdain for the term/phrase "natural hair." If I typed it once, I'll type it again, if it grows from your scalp, it's natural. How one chooses to manipulate, enhance, cut off and design their tresses makes it all natural. I know, I already blogged about that!

Hair care to me is like body care. Both result in beauty when you care for it from the inside out. While many like to refer to "natural" hair care as they would vegetation care, to that I would say, "Watch out for the poison ivy!" In 2015, the trends in hair care got about as tacky as those "Instagram Eyebrows." Professional makeup artists worldwide were like, "Clutch the eyebrow pencils." To say they were pissed at the dumbing down of professional makeup artistry would be an understatement. Without a convention, summit, or hearing of any sort; they united to get rid of the Gawd awful "Instagram Brows." My sentiments, exactly. It is my mission to report and galvanize the masses to get rid of this notion on "natural" hair care. I will be starting with...drum roll please:

#5 Monistat and Hair Growth Mixture
"Hell to the naw naw," with is this concoction. In my opinion, this is the "swine" of hair care. It is so dirty and so not practical in hair care. According to dermatologists at the famed MayoClinic, "The scalp has two types of sweat glands; apocrine and eccrine. The eccrine is responsible for the smell and the eccrine, when combined with the sebaceous oil that the scalp produces, creates yeast when they come into contact with each other." Understanding the
function of the scalp will enhance one's hair care exponentially. The scalp is the foundation of a beautiful, shiny and unique hairstyle. Regardless, the texture of your hair and the infinite styling options you have with it; if the scalp is not clean; no cigar chief. The concept and practice of mixing Monistat with another hair care product, particularly if the hair care product's main ingredient is oil, you are actually creating more yeast. In reality, your scalp combined with the Monistat concoction becomes a Petrie Dish of sorts. And we all know about them Petrie Dishes, don't we?  Provided that you do not have any scalp or hair disorders that prevent your hair from growing, simply clean your scalp and hair as needed. It is going to grow anyway. 


#4 Water Wash
What the "french toast" is this all about? It appears the concept behind water washing is again, to be natural. To not use synthetic, natural or organic products on your hairs. Followers of this regimen want the hair to do what it would do natural. They want you to squeeze, not comb it too much and umm, wash it with water. To that I ask, "Would you "water wash" your vagina?" Next.


#3 Protective Hair Styles
Now, why in the "baloney sammich" would someone want to get on the bandwagon of a hair care trend named, "protective" hair style? Let me explain this to you as if you were a 2-year-old. There are three strengths in hair. Fine being weak. Medium being kinda strong. Coarse being very strong. The varying strengths are comprised of a number of layers called "cuticles." They look like fish scales. Whenever you cause friction against those cuticles, you are physically
popping them off or breaking them just as you would using a knife to descale the fish. Friction causes heat and the heat loosens the cuticle Sooooo, rather you are braiding, flat ironing, coloring, relaxing, twisting, locking, gluing, bonding, wrapping, tying down, laying down on your hair, adding hair, covering and so on to your hair; you are not protecting it; you are compromising it. When you style your hair in any hair style, you will compromise it. You can reduce the likelihood of damaging the cuticle layers by protecting it with products that have the ingredients that are designed to do so. You can not protect hair by styling it. 

You can only protect hair by using hair care products whose molecules are tiny enough to enter the cuticle then go directly to the cortex (that second layer that actually gives your hair its strength) to fortify it from within. You can also use products that include ingredients with very tiny molecules that can coat the cuticle layers.  If the tiny molecules are proteins or fillers they will act a band-aid of sorts on those broken or missing cuticle layers. Then, they will temporarily hold the tiny cuticle layers together as it is styled to keep the hair from breaking. That is protection!

Covering your hair with a scarf, braiding it up or covering your hair with artificial hair will not protect your hair. It will only keep your fingers out of it. 

The above explanation about the friction: covering hair, braiding it up and adding artificial hair will actually break the cuticle layers and at times expose the cortex. That results in damaged hair. The integrity of your hair is now compromised. So while you may see where your has grown in a few months, you will conclude that it wasn't so protected after all. When you uncover it, take it down, uncover it, and comb your hair; it will be limp, dull and lifeless. 

Then the vicious cycle of re-covering it with a wig, scarf, hat or adding artificial hair or human to your hair starts all over again.

#2 Co-Wash
Co-wash; hog-wash. If this concept is so cool, then why isn't it practiced in other cleansing methods? For example, you can't co-wash a floor, dishes, cars, and the likes. Back in the day, whenever I wiped something off, my mom would yell, "Don't half clean my shit. If you gone do something, do it right or don't do it at all" If you had one of them, "keepin it real" mommas, then you know Co-Wash is hogwash. The concept of using a conditioner or a conditioner like
product to clean a yeast producing orifice is paradoxical to cleaning. While I agree that soap and sulfates are not the only way to clean something, you do need some sort of cleansing agent to effectively clean away the dirt, yeast and hair care products from the scalp and hair. So to this I ask, "Would you wash up with lotion?"

#1 YouTube
The greatest thing since sliced bread? Well, if you don't have a million dollar budget and a marketing team; it is. I absolutely love YouTube. I can catch up on all my old Flinstone cartoons, music and James Wright (no relation) singing about the Patti sweet potato pie.  In addition, I too am a fan of the many YouTube how-to channels. However, when you couple those how-to YouTube channels with hair care; start singing, "self-destruction, you're headed for self-destruction." I do understand and love the premise of watching something to get the just of its functionality. I also understand that most hair stylists are not teaching hair care from behind the chair. And both explains the exodus from customers walking away from salons and is moving to their computers and mobile devices to learn how to care for their hair. Women all over the world are looking for help with their hair; especially those with textured hair. So they are turning to the internet to find help. But, it is a choice in futility. Watching a video so you can learn how to cook, dance or exercise won't produce the same results. Why? Because, unlike food, ingredients and dance moves; hair on humans are rarely the same. In other words, no two heads of hair are alike. So watching what one person does to their hair will not produce the same results on yours. Watching those videos and expecting the same results with your hairstyle or hair color reminds me of watching those Sears and JC Penny commercials around Christmas time and wishing just half of it would show up under your Christmas Tree. It never happened, did it? So, to conclude, watching YouTube so you can learn how to care for your hair ranks as the worst technique in hair care in 2015. Again, why? I will quote the famed R&B singer Chris Brown a.k.a Chris Breezy, "She ain't you."

Happy Kwanzaa and Hotep to all my readers. 2015 was great. In spite of all the ridiculousness, many strides were made in hair care. Because I serviced so many women, men, and children who all have fallen victim to the hype of the "natural hair" movement, I thought this blog might help more followers of this movement. It is with my greatest expectations that this blog will liberate you and encourage you do what you know and feel is right about taking care of your hair.

In the end, I get the point of movements, rhetoric and extensive forms of hyperbole in hair care. It makes the sale. It's all about the benjamins baby. Right? Yes. It is also about inflating the egos and pockets of people who for the most part do not like themselves. It also about getting "followers" on  these social networks so they can be social network famous. So, they create hype. They dress it up very well. They filter the heck outta them photos. They shoot their photos from slenderizing angles. They create cool hashtags so we can find them quicker. In the end, they end up spewing a certain kind of hair care ignorance that result in confusion of self. It also results in damage to the scalp and hair that often times are irreversible.  

So, as my blog was inspired by the Nguzo Saba, I will use the 7th principle of the Nguzo Saba, Imani. I will practice Imani to develop my own principles in hair care for the righteousness and victory. For too long, many have fell victim to the myriad of hair scams brought on by the money and fame seeking hair texture violators. This year, let's put an end to the trend of following and watching them. Educate yourself more about your hair. Start with yourself, the mirror and from there; the world is yours!

Happy new year!

Monday, November 30, 2015

Protective Hairstyles Advice

America is fascinated with fear.
America. Ah, the land of the free and the home of the brave! Right? Wrong. We might be free, but we most certainly are not brave. While some are brave in fighting the enemies in war to protect our homeland, others are not when it comes to having some heart to fight the ignorance and care for their hair. 

As a cosmetologist, fear in hair care behooves me. To be honest, it was working with women who were afraid of their own hair while working as a social worker is what got me behind the chair in the first place. 

Exhibit A - The famous coveted "protective
silk" scarf.
Yep, during my social work days I can not tell you how many women had children services involved in their homes for lack of hair care, abuse with hair care, trafficking drugs for hair, fighting over hair, stealing hair; they got into all kinds of mischiefs about hair. Well, everything but caring for their hair or their children's hair themselves. Why? I asked myself that question on several occasions. 

The same answer I got over 15 years ago is the same answer I get today. Fear. Don't get me wrong, America is a great place to live. However, if there is one thing I would like to change about our country, it would be our abuse and misuse of fear. Quite naturally in some instances. fear serves a great purpose. Like when there is a bear, you broke your momma's lamp or your water broke. We all can agree, a good dose of fear comes naturally and quickly in those examples. Yet, when it comes to hair, why is there so much fear?

In this blog, I will take on the fear that many women have in caring for their hair under the guise of "protective hairstyles." Yes lawd, these people with this natural hair movement need to go somewhere and sit down. I get the natural part, but the movement throws me. For starters, the guise of "protective hairstyles" that are being promoted by this natural hair movement is moving people in the wrong direction in many instances. Because this topic can get long. I will briefly cover 3 ways that "protective styles" within the natural hair movement, unknowingly promoting "NO HAIR CARE." 

Exhibit B - The most recent "protective" hairstyle, "Latch Hook" braid style.
The first way is fear. There are many women out there who are abandoning hair care in the name of protection for fear. They actually believe that if they comb, can't comb it, wash it, use sulfates, use man made products that their hair will fall out. That is not true. Have no fear because "protective hair styles" are just a fancy way of saying, "keep your hand out of your hair." That concept works great for those who just won't stop combing, weaving, styling, coloring, relaxing and everything in between every time you turn around with their hair. Yes, braiding it up will temporarily suffice. 

The "temporarily suffice" leads me to the second way that the "protective hairstyling" is unknowingly promoting fear and a clique mania within the natural hair movement. Protective hairstyles purpose is to physically cover the hair to reduce friction that often causes breakage and loss of length. Protective hairstyles do not clean hair. Nor does protective hairstyles fortify and reconstruct hair. If protective styles in all its array of choices are your prerogative to protect and grow your hair...then; "Do what you wanna do!" (In my Bobby Brown voice). Protective hairstyles simply cover your hair. Nothing more and nothing less.

But, make no mistake protecting and growing hair will never result in strong, fortified hair that will withstand the rigors of manipulating hair in its many ways. Manipulating hair is typically done via braiding, wrapping, flat ironing, combing, brushing, wearing a scarf, chemically altering it, getting it wet and so on. Hair needs protein to fortify the second layer of hair to keep it strong enough to handle manipulating it. Hair also needs reconstructors to repair the cuticle layer which is responsible for the shine and feel on our hair.
How many braids do we braid on a daily?
Me say, "Money, I mean many many many!"

The third and final problem with the promotion of "protective hair styling" is cleanliness. Next to dehydration, nothing weakens and compromises hair in every way imaginable than dirty hair. Keeping your hair covered, braided or with weaves to keep your hands out of it to keep from breaking your hair off and losing your length is understandable. However, what you really need to understand is that the yeast, dirt, and growing bacteria is the perfect breeding ground for hair eating and follicle (the tiny hole that your hair grows from) compromising micro-organisms that will always result in weak, limp, damaged, over processed, lackluster, thinning, smelly, scaly scalp, lice, and nit infested hair. That is; when you take it down.

I so get the importance of embracing what God gave you by way of hair texture. But what good will pointing out the beauty of your God given hair (regardless your race, texture and length) if you do not wash it properly with the correct products formulated for your unique hair fabric? What good is protecting your natural hair if you cover it, braid it or  "weave" it and you will not wash it and fortify it? What good is it to boast and brag about being natural and going natural when you are too busy to care for it? What good is it to be "natural" if you do not want to learn how to do it yourself or invest in someone who can?

Hair nits. The struggle is real. Do not use hair straight
from the package. Clean the artificial hair first.
I will reiterate how I get the movement. I understand. I too promote braiding it, covering it , and weaving it. But, where the movement is going and who are allowed to go on it, remains something of an enigma to me? Using fear and ignorance, coupled with unresponsible leadership will continue to move those with hair in the illusive wrong direction of protective styles that require no care, no treatment, no cleaning, no nothing; well not at least for 3 weeks to 3 months. That will never suffice and result in strong shainy hair. 
In closing, would you Google a movement, followed its directions and buty their endorsed products to protect your vagina like that?

Exactly!

Monday, September 21, 2015

How to Care for My Hair?

Girl bye...
I often hear that being a cosmetologist is similar to being a psychologist or therapist. Hmph, I beg to differ. Being a cosmetologist is more like being an audience member at a comedy show. While it is true that people do share some interesting problems to us, no problem they share compares to the funny stories they tell. The funny stories they tell about haircare ranks up there with the scene in "Blades of Glory" when Will Ferrell is explaining why use uses "Mane and Tail" shampoo and how he brushes his hair with his special brush 100 times each night...lol Go YouTube it!

In this blog ndogo, I will highlight some of the craziest things I have heard in the name of hair care.  

Love, peace and hair grease!
Understand that for many, cultural practices along with good old fashioned trial and error, plays a pivotal role in the humor of it all. The examples that I find humorous are no attempt to directly or indirectly offend anyone, any culture, any practice or any hair texture. So, read along. Maybe you will get a laugh too!

All right now, here we go!

Starting with the crazy over use of GREASE. OMG! When asked why? The response typically goes like this, "Ladosha, the reason I have so much grease in my hair is because I am trying to keep my hair from feeling so dry!" LOL, you can stop laughing or nodding now! Ok, seriously people, grease will never bring moisture to hair. Grease (of any and all makes) coats your hair. Grease is actually an anti-humectant. So, the more grease/mineral oil you use on your hair, the dryer, more brittle and gritty your hair will feel. How could this be, you ask? Because most greases are made from petroleum. Petroleum will NEVER attract moisture. It coats hair and skin. It sits on top and the toxic waste is absorbed into your skin making your body work hard to get rid of it. Even if you put a plastic cap on it! The minute you take that cap off and your hair or feet dries; both will feel dryer after a few hours. People, do not try this at home or any place else. Grease and synthetic oils are great conductors of heat (though they do burn off, just press the gas pedal on your car). It also adds sheen. If you want moist hair you will need to drink more water and use a product like Decca Plus' Satin Tame. It has ingredients in it to bind moisture, strengthen it, seal the cuticles to keep textured tress from tangling (yeah boyee) and keep hair feeling supple. It does not over soften to compromise texture. It does not coat hair making it feel wet or gooey.

Don't believe the hype.
Next up is the crazy CO-WASH hog wash. What the ham sammich is going on? There are so many hair stylists wondering how are people falling for this. Often when I observe the scalp of a new client during my scalp and hair analysis, I notice what looks like cottage cheese or yogurt on the scalp. When I ask what is going on with your hair? The typical response is, "Oh, Ladosha I went on YOUTUBE and learned about a better way to clean my hair.  It does not have any sulfates and all those other harsh ingredients. It's called co-washing" Ooooh kaaaaay. Again, what the ham sammich is this nonsense? "Listen honey, listen!" The detangling benefits of co-washing often over soften hair after extended use. Leaves a stinch on the hair liken to Peppy Le Pew. And a coating that only Dawn dishwashing liquid can remove. No shampoo on the market and cleanse the scalp and hair effectively of this kind of product. Co-washing your hair is the equivalent  of washing up with lotion. Enough said.

The next crazy attempt done in the name of hair care is the INVERSION METHOD. Yes, it is true that blood flow is essential to the health and growth of hair. You can increase blood flow to the scalp by way of massaging the scalp, brushing to stimulate the scalp, medication, stimulating essential oils (i.e. peppermint, camphor, tea true and the likes), and electric scalp massagers, infrared lights and now "thee" inversion method! The inversion method was accidentally discovered by the original medicine man, Hippocrates. He was using this technique for back problems and accidentally discovered that folks hair was growing. So basically, the name tells it all.  The Inversion Method requires that you hang upside down (hence inversion) or at a certain angle one lays to get the blood flow to the scalp. Anybody can do it, except people who have the following:
Upside down, hair you turn me (in my Diana Ross voice)!
  • Low or High blood 
  • Detached retina (duuude!)
  • Ear infection
  • Spinal injury
  • Heart or circulatory problems
  • Pregnacy (do they really need  warning...lol)
  • Hernia
  • Obesity (oh well, that excludes me...lol)
  • Unhealed fractures or injuries
  • Recent Stroke
  • Migranes
In the infamous words of one zany crazy comedian, Judy Tenuta, 'It could happen!"

Read the ticker...water, oil/butters and a plastic cap
will not make hair grow.
Next, the crazy thing done in the name of hair care is the GHE a.k.a the Green House Effect for hair. It was created by Mika Lishauna. Again, the name says it all. This one here...SMH. Again, there are some of us hair stylists who just don't get it. I like the analogy of plant care to follicle care...but-ter-umm.  Ok, so in theory the concept is to mimic the effects of what a green house does for plants to hair. GHE instructs users to do 3 things. One, spritz hair with water until damp. Two, apply oil or butter (shea or coconut) to hair and three, cover hair with a plastic cap leaving it on overnight or as long as you can. In the morning style your hair in a non-heat hair style and at night place the cap back on your head to start all over again. According to my readings, the GHE technique was created "to increase blood flow that stimulates hair follicles and raises your hair growth rate." Now I don't know Mika and I most certainly do not know Monica of the "Curly Hair Lounge" blog that I got my quote from; but-er-ummmm. "blood flow" by no stretch of the imagination can NOT come from misting water onto hair, adding oils/butter and then placing a plastic cap on your head for as long as you can. To promote growth for hair all you need is a sound diet, water, bowel movements. And according to Mr. Charles Truss of Decca Plus hair care cleansing, nourishing and circulation will most definitely suffice. Second, humans are wired to only grow about 1/4 inch per month give or take a few millimeters. It ain't happenin' people. Not even with a time lapsed camera attached to your re-qrowth to capture the growth.

Another one, the "PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLES" craze.  Did the Beetles just return to the US from Britain? LOL! This latest craze in hair care is sweeping the globe. Yet, I don't know about this one either. Back in the day in the day we use to just call them french braids, cornrows, plats, wigs or my favorite, "keep yo hands out yo hair!" As for protection, a hat will protect...lol 
Throwback Protective Style formerly known as BRAIDS!


At this point, I'm like Lawrence Fishbourne in"School Daze," Waaaaaaaake up! You can use any word you want. Anytime you stop yanking on it and being heavy handed or aggressive with your styling techniques you won't need protection. Just a new habit!

But wait, there's more. The crazy, zany over rated "NATURAL HAIR" movement. Oh lort! Do not sip tea or do a lap for Jesus! The Pink Panthers were a movement. Ditching your relaxer is not a movement. It is a choice. Listen my dear readers...If it grows from your scalp; it IS natural. For the record whenever, however and with whatever we apply to our hair and skin; we are indeed altering it. Hair is a living pliable fabric that you can do some pretty cool things to. But that does not mean it is any less natural if you alter it in any facet. And for all the licensed pros jumping on this cash cow train to the bank, you should be ashamed of yourselves. Customers are asking, "Shouldn't they have beein making the decision to improve my hair texture on their own with educations and training without the influence of the internet?" These women out here are not stupid. That is why many do not trust or do business with licensed professionals.

Y'all know about The Mack...lol
In conclusion, if you find yourself navigating to the latest trend or hype in hair care and growth, ask yourself, "Who's the mack?" Don't fall for the okey doke. Remember, it only takes 3 steps to promote growth and the health of hair. "Cleanse, nourish and circulation." I suggest you couple those three simple steps with the proper styling tools, caring hands and your natural hair is gonna be alright. While some hair textures and hair styles require more time than others...hey, it what it is; hair!

Sunday, February 1, 2015

Not Hot Enough

Nothing came between Brooke and Calvin!
Remember when Levi's, Wranglers and Lee jeans were like khakis and corduroys? Boring. When designer jeans arrived on the fashion scene it was over. I even remember when the R&B funk group Cameo had a song, "Shake Your Pants." They had a verse dedicated to designer jeans letting you know that when you wore a pair, you were "dressed to kill." Jordache jeans were the "ish!" Then came Sassoon, then Gloria Vanderbilt and "Uh oh, Sergio's." But who can forget when Brooke Shields confessed to the world that nothing came between she and her Calvin Klein's? Along with looking nice in those designer jeans came the challenge of how to keep them looking like you just got them fresh off the rack. So the big question was, "to wash or not to wash?" Who can remember not wanting to ever wash your designer jeans because you did not want that rich indigo blue to fade on those stark white stitches" Sorry New Religion, but Calvin Klein ruled the scene way before you were a jean god. 

Whatchu know about dat...lol

In addition to questioning rather to wash them; you also questioned what kind of heat to use on them. You pondered, rather to put them in the washer or send them to cleaners? Hang dry or dryer? Steam or no steam? Starch or no starch? Niagara, Fautless or Stay Flo? For most, Niagara was always best. And if you were pressed for starch, your mom would teach you how to make some by using a lil flour and water...lol Now that's old school for you! The one thing you learned about designer jeans was that you had to have the right amount of heat to keep them soft, smooth and straight to preserve the fabric. And in determining that; it was unanimous that not enough heat, rather from the dryer or the iron proved disastrous!

Believe it or not, how to care for your denim (designer or not) is identical to the concept of hair care. Unlike blue jeans that all are cut from the same fabric, the same cannot be said for hair. Yet, you can apply the concept of fabric care to hair care. Provided you know what the fabric is FIRST and you follow the manufacturers instructions on the label; you can make it happen. Honestly, I see a lot of people putting cheap clothes and expensive garments in the cleaners that can easily be cared for AT HOME; like your hair. 

The trick to caring for your hair/fabric at home is to ask, "What is the most important part of caring for the fabric?" Is it the soap powder, the fabric softener, the bleach, the heat or the starch? Most come to the conclusion, if the fabric is not cleaned properly then there is no use in using any fabric softer, bleach, starch or heat. Again, the same can be asked of hair care and the response will pretty much be the same. If the hair is dirty; what's the point?

Hair like fabric, will not fit right or flow when it becomes soiled. Once the hair is clean and conditioned it will conduct heat safely. When straight and smooth is the goal, heat is the way to achieve it. Heat is responsible for how hair feels, looks and flows on your head just like heat affects how fabrics feel, look and flow on your body. Nothing, compromises the feel, look and flow of hair and fabric like not using enough heat. Both hair and fabrics will become damaged. If a cheap iron that leaks rust and sloughs off soot of some as it comes into contact with the hair or fabric. it too will compromise the health of the hair or fabric.

For mature audiences only.
Every time I hear someone say, "Heat is bad for hair." I immediately look at their clothes and go, "Oh. I see." Understand that if you have never had to do any laundry then understanding how hair is cleaned and cared for will be Greek to you. I am not only referring to the washing machine. I am making reference to having to wash your clothes by hand or on a scrub board or with rocks using the vary forms of soap. If you have never had to use any heat on clothes, then knowing and understanding how heat affects hair will be like Swahili to you. I am not referring to a Black and Decker iron heat . I am referring to the kinds of heat that can be used from irons you had to put on the gas stove, or a steamer, or hanging them in the sun to dry or even having to put your pants under the mattress (whatchu know about that)! Fabric care and the use of heat can be done using many forms. One thing's for certain and two things for sure; heat in some form is a absolute must when smooth and straight fabric is wanted. 

The thicker, the stronger, the more wrinkled the fabric; like hair the more heat is needed. In actuality, the less heat you use on hair that is textured or hair that is strong and thick; the more damage you will cause to your hair. Yep, I wrote it. Less heat is more damaging than too much heat. Again, most hair has 3 layers. The cuticle, cortex and medulla. Each strand of hair is mostly comprised cuticle scaly layers that look like shingles on a roof. The less heat you use to lay those shingles down; the more they will raise. The more they raise, the more the hair will not feel nice, look nice and flow nice. Instead, the hair will: frizz easily, feel gritty, revert quickly, appear dull, dusty, snap and rub out. Also it will not smooth and straighten evenly. 
Open cuticle-how ya hair looks when not enough heat is used.

Heat is your straight hair style's best friend . Like starch, there are a myriad of thermal and heat protectors to buff the cuticle layers from the heat, thus making it safe. There are also a myriad of thermal and heat protectors as well as heated styling tools (flat irons, curling irons, straightening combs, blow dryers, brushes) that makes hair conduct the heat more evenly and safe. Not using any form of heat protector is like not using starch or a fabric protector on those expensive blue jeans. The results are faded, dull jeans that tear very easily. 

Do you spend more money on fabrics
that are not on your head than the hair
fabric that grows from your scalp?
For life of me why people spend more money on fabrics of all kinds designed by the many talented clothing, shoe, wallet and purse designers than the hair that grows from their scalp; behooves me.  After all, clothes, shoes, wallets and purses are made of fabric too. People spend a lot of money to keep those designer/expensive clothes, shoe, wallets and purses looking new.  Your hair is attached to YOUR body. Those fabrics in their varying forms are not. Yet, many of people will go to that ECO friendly cleaners and buy that organic detergent. Yes, make no mistake they, too will put that bebe and Guess shirt in the cleaners, they will buy that UGG cleaner, that Coach bag cleaner and wipe that fabric down whenever salt or goo gets on them. Some will even make a special place in their closet and car for them. They will be sure to use heat or no heat at all if that is what the fabric calls for. Whatever the fabric requires; no amount of money is too much. After all, "You're worth it?" 

But when it comes to hair. I dunno? I see women spending any where from $50.00 to $400.00 on hair weave and then spend $4.99 on oil sheen to make it shine. "Houston, we have a problem." That makes no since. With the exception of those who can not grow hair or those who are pre-genetically determined to lose their hair, everyone has the ability to grow hair for FREE. I'm talking the kind of free hair that grows every single second of the day. And in that hair which is growing for free all day every day, there is some form of texture. There are many people with textured hair who actually like the option of being able to smooth and straighten it. Yet, there are these interesting "self taught, heat free movement people who do not know much about heat; let alone how to use it on hair" people who tell people that heat is bad for hair. Heat is not bad for hair. As a result of their messages about heat, many doubt the safety and purpose of heat on hair as it relates to a straightened hair style. 

Propaganda; A hustle?

Don't listen to those people. Do not make the mistake of trying to smooth out your textured hair, in any form, without enough heat. Damaged hair will be the result. Heat has been so safely used on hair, they even started schooling and businesses for it. It is called, Cosmetology. One, I am proud to represent professionally. I can tell you from personal and professional experience, hair remains on the heads of the many people world wide with all kinds of texture who use heat. Hair that is straightened converts back to its natural state of curly, wavy, kinky or Afro on the many many people who straighten it out. If they purposely or accidentally over process it while using heat; quality protein will revert damaged tresses in due time. All that talk about burning your hair, well;  If you accidentally scorch and burn a piece of hair here and there; don't fret. It will grow back. It's not that serious. 

This movement around: protective hair styles, heat free styles, natural hair styles, healthy hair, curly, hair, loc hair, braided hair, twisted hair, coiled hair, textured hair and any other kind of hair in between is propaganda in its purest form. It totes the line of sexism, racism and classism. It separates people. They mainly do things like show images of women with dark skin and woolen hair or use words like "women of color." Sometimes they single people out by using terms like "mixed, ethnic or bi-racial." These people are wrong. Perhaps they are in need money. They might need attention. Some may have a strong dislike for licensed hair stylists. Some may have had bad experiences with heat. Some don't want to sit through cosmetology school. I don't know, but they are out of line. It has been proven by many how race contributes to hair texture not determine. It also has been proven that heat smooths, not damage when used responsibly. This type of propaganda is nothing more than a hustle in every since of the swindling meaning. 

Keep it simple people. Do not make another click on YouTube about hair. You do not need to be a cosmetologist, hair stylist, trichologist, dermatologist, mom-ologist, YouTubeologist, loctician, natural hair guru or hair blogger or anybody in between to know that if it is not hot enough; blah is the result. Blah, damaged poof hair is the result to be exact. So if you want to straighten out your hair, do it. Just remember heat is safe and not enough heat is damaging.