How to Care for My Hair?

Girl bye...

I often hear that being a cosmetologist is similar to being a psychologist or therapist. Hmph, I beg to differ. Being a cosmetologist is more like being an audience member at a comedy show. While it is true that people do share some interesting problems to us, no problem they share compares to the funny stories they tell. The funny stories they tell about haircare ranks up there with the scene in "Blades of Glory" when Will Ferrell is explaining why use uses "Mane and Tail" shampoo and how he brushes his hair with his special brush 100 times each night...lol Go YouTube it!

In this blog ndogo, I will highlight some of the craziest things I have heard in the name of hair care.  

Love, peace and hair grease!

Understand that for many, cultural practices along with good old fashioned trial and error, plays a pivotal role in the humor of it all. The examples that I find humorous are no attempt to directly or indirectly offend anyone, any culture, any practice or any hair texture. So, read along. Maybe you will get a laugh too!

All right now, here we go!

Starting with the crazy over use of GREASE. OMG! When asked why? The response typically goes like this, "Ladosha, the reason I have so much grease in my hair is because I am trying to keep my hair from feeling so dry!" LOL, you can stop laughing or nodding now! Ok, seriously people, grease will never bring moisture to hair. Grease (of any and all makes) coats your hair. Grease is actually an anti-humectant. So, the more grease/mineral oil you use on your hair, the dryer, more brittle and gritty your hair will feel. How could this be, you ask? Because most greases are made from petroleum. Petroleum will NEVER attract moisture. It coats hair and skin. It sits on top and the toxic waste is absorbed into your skin making your body work hard to get rid of it. Even if you put a plastic cap on it! The minute you take that cap off and your hair or feet dries; both will feel dryer after a few hours. People, do not try this at home or any place else. Grease and synthetic oils are great conductors of heat (though they do burn off, just press the gas pedal on your car). It also adds sheen. If you want moist hair you will need to drink more water and use a product like Decca Plus' Satin Tame. It has ingredients in it to bind moisture, strengthen it, seal the cuticles to keep textured tress from tangling (yeah boyee) and keep hair feeling supple. It does not over soften to compromise texture. It does not coat hair making it feel wet or gooey.

Don't believe the hype.

Next up is the crazy CO-WASH hog wash. What the ham sammich is going on? There are so many hair stylists wondering how are people falling for this. Often when I observe the scalp of a new client during my scalp and hair analysis, I notice what looks like cottage cheese or yogurt on the scalp. When I ask what is going on with your hair? The typical response is, "Oh, Ladosha I went on YOUTUBE and learned about a better way to clean my hair.  It does not have any sulfates and all those other harsh ingredients. It's called co-washing" Ooooh kaaaaay. Again, what the ham sammich is this nonsense? "Listen honey, listen!" The detangling benefits of co-washing often over soften hair after extended use. Leaves a stinch on the hair liken to Peppy Le Pew. And a coating that only Dawn dishwashing liquid can remove. No shampoo on the market and cleanse the scalp and hair effectively of this kind of product. Co-washing your hair is the equivalent  of washing up with lotion. Enough said.

The next crazy attempt done in the name of hair care is the INVERSION METHOD. Yes, it is true that blood flow is essential to the health and growth of hair. You can increase blood flow to the scalp by way of massaging the scalp, brushing to stimulate the scalp, medication, stimulating essential oils (i.e. peppermint, camphor, tea true and the likes), and electric scalp massagers, infrared lights and now "thee" inversion method! The inversion method was accidentally discovered by the original medicine man, Hippocrates. He was using this technique for back problems and accidentally discovered that folks hair was growing. So basically, the name tells it all.  The Inversion Method requires that you hang upside down (hence inversion) or at a certain angle one lays to get the blood flow to the scalp. Anybody can do it, except people who have the following:

Upside down, hair you turn me (in my Diana Ross voice)!

• Low or High blood 
• Detached retina (duuude!)
• Ear infection
• Spinal injury
• Heart or circulatory problems
• Pregnacy (do they really need  warning...lol)
• Hernia
• Obesity (oh well, that excludes me...lol)
• Unhealed fractures or injuries
• Recent Stroke
• Migranes

In the infamous words of one zany crazy comedian, Judy Tenuta, 'It could happen!"

Read the ticker...water, oil/butters and a plastic cap
will not make hair grow.

Next, the crazy thing done in the name of hair care is the GHE a.k.a the Green House Effect for hair. It was created by Mika Lishauna. Again, the name says it all. This one here...SMH. Again, there are some of us hair stylists who just don't get it. I like the analogy of plant care to follicle care...but-ter-umm.  Ok, so in theory the concept is to mimic the effects of what a green house does for plants to hair. GHE instructs users to do 3 things. One, spritz hair with water until damp. Two, apply oil or butter (shea or coconut) to hair and three, cover hair with a plastic cap leaving it on overnight or as long as you can. In the morning style your hair in a non-heat hair style and at night place the cap back on your head to start all over again. According to my readings, the GHE technique was created "to increase blood flow that stimulates hair follicles and raises your hair growth rate." Now I don't know Mika and I most certainly do not know Monica of the "Curly Hair Lounge" blog that I got my quote from; but-er-ummmm. "blood flow" by no stretch of the imagination can NOT come from misting water onto hair, adding oils/butter and then placing a plastic cap on your head for as long as you can. To promote growth for hair all you need is a sound diet, water, bowel movements. And according to Mr. Charles Truss of Decca Plus hair care cleansing, nourishing and circulation will most definitely suffice. Second, humans are wired to only grow about 1/4 inch per month give or take a few millimeters. It ain't happenin' people. Not even with a time lapsed camera attached to your re-qrowth to capture the growth.

Another one, the "PROTECTIVE HAIRSTYLES" craze.  Did the Beetles just return to the US from Britain? LOL! This latest craze in hair care is sweeping the globe. Yet, I don't know about this one either. Back in the day in the day we use to just call them french braids, cornrows, plats, wigs or my favorite, "keep yo hands out yo hair!" As for protection, a hat will protect...lol 

Throwback Protective Style formerly known as BRAIDS!

At this point, I'm like Lawrence Fishbourne in"School Daze," Waaaaaaaake up! You can use any word you want. Anytime you stop yanking on it and being heavy handed or aggressive with your styling techniques you won't need protection. Just a new habit!

But wait, there's more. The crazy, zany over rated "NATURAL HAIR" movement. Oh lort! Do not sip tea or do a lap for Jesus! The Pink Panthers were a movement. Ditching your relaxer is not a movement. It is a choice. Listen my dear readers...If it grows from your scalp; it IS natural. For the record whenever, however and with whatever we apply to our hair and skin; we are indeed altering it. Hair is a living pliable fabric that you can do some pretty cool things to. But that does not mean it is any less natural if you alter it in any facet. And for all the licensed pros jumping on this cash cow train to the bank, you should be ashamed of yourselves. Customers are asking, "Shouldn't they have beein making the decision to improve my hair texture on their own with educations and training without the influence of the internet?" These women out here are not stupid. That is why many do not trust or do business with licensed professionals.

Y'all know about The Mack...lol

In conclusion, if you find yourself navigating to the latest trend or hype in hair care and growth, ask yourself, "Who's the mack?" Don't fall for the okey doke. Remember, it only takes 3 steps to promote growth and the health of hair. "Cleanse, nourish and circulation." I suggest you couple those three simple steps with the proper styling tools, caring hands and your natural hair is gonna be alright. While some hair textures and hair styles require more time than others...hey, it what it is; hair!

Color Treated Hair

Inquiring minds wanna know!

I recall the day I announced to my colleagues in social work that I would be switching careers from social work to hair care. They were all very excited for me. "What will you do, what will be your areas of expertise?" Those were the questions of the day. I would happily respond, "I will specialize in Trichology and hair coloring." I hope to travel the world teaching the masses how to do their own hair and in between engagements color the world beautiful!" They would all smile. Then one day, my dearly beloved colleague, Ellie Heiser overheard my response. She called me over to her office and said,"Ladosha, I'm a little old Jewish lady who spends a lot of money and time in hair salons. And though I don't know much about hair care for black women, I can tell you that women of all colors want to have their hair colored by a colorist who specializes in hair color who also has her hair colored."  I laughed so hard as I looked in the mirror at my black hair with a serious skunk streak going off center down my entire head of hair. 

The rest they say is history. At that pivotal moment, I decided I needed to step my A-Game up and learn more about what I was to specialize in and of course, re-vamp my image. I turned to my very southern belle of a cousin, Nickcole to help me in the image department. And boy did she pluck every hair that didn't belong, threw out my standard social work jacket, cut down my nails and urged me to fix my smile. Ahh, nothing like the brutal honesty of family!

Now that my image was all together, I still had this skunk streak I needed to get rid of. The interesting thing about becoming a colorist was learning the truth about hair color. So in my quest to get my tresses colored properly, I quite naturally devised a list of things to consider about coloring my hair. As a colorist, I have pretty much stuck to that list and only modifies it when a new technology enters the scope of services. 

So for those of you who are just dying to know the secrets to great hair coloring; read on!

There are five simple things to consider if you are interested in having your hair colored. Perhaps you are having problems with getting your gray hair to cover properly or maybe you are simply afraid of getting your hair colored. 

When it comes hair color, don't sweat the small stuff. The five tips I put together will surely help you if you want your hair colored or like me; want to become a colorist.

Money makes the world go
round and your colorist too!

Number one, the cost. Not in the spirit of you get what you pay for. The cost has to do with technology, ingredients and availability. That scenario includes what you purchase over the counter and who you pay to formulate and apply it.

Second is the formulation. Now this is where the cost and the results could increase or decrease; improve or worsen. A true colorist and a forthright company will formulate according to the desired outcome the person is looking for. If you are coloring your hair at home, this can be difficult. I suggest you call the company's 1-800 number for advice instead of re-reading the box trying to figure it out. Coloring your hair is nothing like polishing your nails. As for paying a professional, the colorist should always do a consultation upon every visit and prior to mixing anything up in the back. If your colorist at the salon is saying things like, "So are we keeping the same color?" Run for the door!

Applying hair color is not like
applying nail polish.

Third is the application. Applying hair color is as intricate as painting the walls in your home or finishing your hardwood floors. Meticulousness to details. In addition, a "method to the madness" always brings about flawless mouth dropping results. Apply color in haste not only makes waste, but it also brings about blotchy inconsistent patchy results.

Fourth, is maintenance. What you maintain your colored tresses with is as important as what you color your tresses with. Shampoos, conditioners and styling agents that are formulated for color treated hair are always best. These products are more gentle. These products have the technology and ingredients to prevent color from fading. They also help your hair from becoming brittle as well as afford you to chemically alter your hair by way of Keratin treatments, chemical relaxers, flat ironing and perming your hair. I recommend that you follow the manufacturers suggestions if you are coloring your hair at home. Do not play in this area. Doing so, almost always results in damaged hair and faded color. If you are going to a salon, purchase what your colorist recommends without hesitation. Almost all products are money-back guarantee; therefore you are never stuck with a product.

Framesi's Color Lovers
line for color treated hair is
one of the best on the
market. 

Read the technology and care
Framesi put into their
Color Lovers product line.

Do not be tempted or duped into buying products according to race and lifestyle. Quality hair care products are like soap. They are formulated to address the skin/hair condition; not the race of the person. I mean have you ever heard or read a Dove soap commercial say, "Dove, formulated for dirty white people only?" Neither should hair care products. There is something unique in all hair textures not just Blacks and minorities. There is also something unique in every individual. So while a certain group of people may be of the same race, they are all individuals. Customize your hair care just like you do your skin care. 

The best flat irons for the price.

Fifth, are the styling tools. If you are using heating implements that are too hot; you will cause the color molecules to dissipate and your color will fade faster. If you are using heating implements that are not hot enough you will cause your hair to feel rough, brittle and the color molecules will dissipate. Your hair will break, your color will fade and damaged hair is again almost always the result. Invest in a quality pair of flat irons that have the technology built in just like your hair color and hair care products. Remington Flat irons have some of the best technology that is safe and effective for all hair textures at prices under $70.00.

As you can see, dying to know about hair color not only gets you the answers, it will also bring life back to your hair. The responses will have you thinking more responsibly about coloring your hair or having it colored. If money and time are "true" concerns, then do not apply hair color or have color applied to your hair. It does not matter if the hair color line is organic or synthetic; temporary, semi, demi or permanent .... they are all chemicals and they all chemically alter your hair. 

So now that you have the answers, you can get back to living with your hair!