Trends in Hair

Trends in hair care are essential in the world of hair styling and hair care. As a cosmetologist, being on the pulse of what consumers are looking for are very important. In my last blog, I highlighted the top five worst trends in hair care last year. In this blog, I will highlight the importance of discovering your hair and it's texture, style ability, care and it's uniqueness.

The purpose of the previous blog was to inform readers about gimmicks used in the one size fit all approach to hair care. Understand that hair care is unique and different for every head of hair. There is certainly a discovery process in trying different things to learn what will and will not work for your hair. So quite naturally, taking a chance to try out some these hair care antics are par for the course in discovering. However, under no circumstances should no one get to the point of discovery where the health of the hair and scalp is compromised. My goal in hair care, hair styling and blogging is to prevent hair damage and hair loss.This is my passion. 

This year when you research or look up what the trends will be in 2016 for hair styling, your search will come up with: braids/twists extensions, tree braid extensions, straightened hair, short pixie cuts, and wash & wear hair. I doubt very little that there is much difference in hairstyles this year compared to last year. With the change of hair additions going from long, straight and wavy to long braids and twists; adding hair will pretty much be the same. As a matter of fact, hair extensions still trump as the most sought after of all hair styling options. 

As a hair stylist, quite naturally I am not anti hair additions or any hair style that gives one a myriad of creative options wear their hair and express what makes them unique. So, go with the trend or be a daring trend setter. Either way, I'm a happy hair care camper. Just be sure to keep your hair on your head.

I love this look for the trend in 2016!

What concerns me as a hair stylist about hair styling is not so much as the trends. What concerns me is this massive collection of untrained and unskilled people encouraging them to "follow." The follow me, like me, tweet, and give me hearts trend in hair care is scary from my perspective of working behind the chair. Why? For some reason, the follower translates what they are seeing and watching as their own hair. What I see are women who are devastated by the level of damage done to their hair, time and money lost trying out what the see on their phones, pads, computers and other devices. Don't get me wrong, I love looking at pictures that are posted on all the social networks. I also enjoy reviewing videos on YouTube to see what folks are doing and creating with hair. But when following and copying becomes synonymous, like it has in hair care and hair styling, "Houston, we've got problems."

Videos, blogs, periscoping, tutorials and photos main purpose are simply to inspire; not duplicate. Of course I can't watch look at every post and watch every video, but I do find the key words of "inspiration" are lacking. Many creators of these pages, links and videos are leaning towards a "monkey see - monkey do" indirect approach in their efforts to get viewers to buy into their act. Copying what someone does to their hair and trying it out on your hair is risky. In my opinion that is the equivalent of using someone else's toothbrush. Yep. hair care and hair styles like toothbrushes are great. They all have a universal appeal. One can watch videos and go to as many dentists as they like to learn how to properly care for their teeth. Yet, you will not find one dentist or person who will suggest that you use someone else's toothbrush and brush your teeth as they do. As a matter of fact, it is when your dentist customizes your visit that makes your experience more individualized. You get a sense of concern and care when your dentist demonstrates how to care for your teeth and gums and how "this' toothbrush is for your teeth and your teeth only. Imagine if your dentist reached over and took that toothbrush from another person's mouth and said, "here, do it like her" and walked away?

Follow for inspiration. Do not copy.

It is the individual and personal level of instruction and care that must be given to every person from all over the planet who will someday do their own hair that is important. If you are in the spirit of looking, liking, following, reading, listening, and watching things about hair, remember, those are guides. Do not copy it verbatim. 

Instead, read up on your product first. Call or visit the company's social media of the product you want to try. Companies love hearing directly from their consumers. Often times they will send samples or coupons that will give you the opportunity to try before you buy. Also, only buy travel size or travel size kits of the products you want to try. If you make smaller purchases, your closets and cabinets will not end up in a heap of unwanted clutter. Another option is to allow your hairstylist to try things out. This will give you the hands on chance to actually try and get instructions. Most hair stylists will give you pointers in caring for and styling your hair. If not, find a new one.

In addition,cosmetology schools and salon clinics are great places to try things out on your hair. Most cosmetology schools and salon clinics are offering service much cheaper than a hair stylist or regular salon services. Provided the service you want to try out do not require chemicals, you should be safe. Wait, don't turn your nose up to these options. The trade of are the free or deep discounted services and assistance you would receive in the form of a one on one about your hair.What is the worst case scenario? None, because you will not have spent much money and you can simply wash out the unwanted style. Your hair will be in tact. The style can be washed out or un-braided if you really don't like it. Lastly, keep in mind that even the greatest of hair stylists were students first. You would surprised to the many talents inside your local cosmetology schools! When I was in cosmetology school, I was very sought after. I tried many things out under the instruction of my instructors and the the help of my fellow students. The prices were well under 10 bucks.

Carefully follow manufacturers instructions. Resist cookie
 cutting the directions.

With these tips in mind you can continue to follow, like, tweet, and watch without totally compromising your hair or wasting time and money. Remember, no two heads are alike. What you see and watch on a screen rarely results in what you will see in your mirror at home.And that is okay. Be patient, work with your hair in smaller sections, purchase travel sizes, keep your receipts and lastly try a hair stylist or your local beauty school to get the one on one attention your hair needs. 

Hopefully, by the time you read this and try out some of my tips, the only thing you will be following are the directions! 

Nappy Hair

Stereotype. 

Is it me, but do you ever reflect back on those pivotal moments when you had those "A-ha Moments" in learning that were very fascinating? I still have them to this very day. When I was in the 6th grade, I was full of excitement to learn how to use different words to express myself. 

In reminiscing, nothing quite tickled my fancy that I can recall, like learning the word, "stereotype." Now, if my memory serves me correct, which it doesn't as I age, I recall thinking the word stereotype meant some kind of stereo. I just knew my guess could not be wrong. After all, I knew what a stereo was and I knew what type meant; so how could I have went wrong on that word? Boy, was I wrong. 

Since learning what stereotype meant, I've come to realize that it is just as real at 48 years old as it was at 11 years old. If it has been a while since you've read the definition of stereotype, let me refresh you. As defined in Websters, "stereotype is a widely held but fixed and oversimplified image or idea of a particular type of person or thing."

Being a hairstylist, stereotyping, unfortunately, is very commonplace. For example, it is not uncommon for a hairstylist to assume that a person is black if they have brown skin with textured hair. I highly recommend licensed hairstylists to do a thorough consultation. A consultation gives the professional  a chance to get to know the customer first before they even touch their hair. It is the consultation that reduces the likelihood of stereotyping. 

Artificial hair.

In no place do I see stereotyping like I see it in the hair industry. Stereotyping has moved from the eyes to the thoughts, to the pages and now to the computer screens worldwide. Words and images of "natural hair" being predominantly associated with women of color regardless the location. As a matter of fact, stereotyping is also changing the meaning of words. Stereotyping promotes the ignorance that "natural hair' is textured hair for Black girls and women. Funny, what about boys and men?

Yep, it's that bad. I was in the salon the other day and my new guest asked, "What is your take on natural hair? I notice in all that I read about you, you shy away from that word." I responded, "Well...if it grows from your head, it's natural." She was like, "Oh." I told her that I was not trying to be funny or not sensitive. I told her that I was being professional. In being professional, it is in one's best interest to avoid stereotyping. I doubt any customer I serve would find me credible if I asked if they had "natural" hair as I touch it or implied it wasn't natural because it was chemically altered. To me, that would not be professional. To me, that would be stereotyping.

For the record, a wig or weave in any fashion is the only hair that is not natural. It is sewn onto some sort of netting, weft or is attached to the natural fibers growing from your scalp in many ways from gluing, to sewing, to clipping them in, fusing and the likes.  Seriously, not much of hair styling can take place without some hair. Except In the many cases of people who can not grow hair, is on medication that causes them to lose their hair or for those who simply shave it off because they don't want any hair; then no hair it is. They may opt for a wig in the many ways they can be made. 

Natural hair! 

Natural hair is hair that grows from the scalp in the varying textures of curly, kinky, wavy, straight and Afro. Everybody of the same race or within the same family does not have the same hair. Natural hair is not a black thing. Textured hair is most certainly not a black thing. Natural hair that is chemically altered via straighteners, texturizers or hair color REMAINS natural. Just because it is altered does not mean that it is not natural. It means your hair is altered. Promoting altered hair as anything but natural is like saying, "If you wear makeup, earrings or put clothes on; you are not natural." 

For the record, hair is a pliable resilient fiber that you can safely do many things to alter it. Hair's chief purpose is adornment because adorning yourself is innate. The unknown desire to be cute or alter your appearance (hair included) is natural as scratching an itch! To be exact, they still have not found any scientific or biological reason why we have hair. Aside from the obvious theory of protection, research has not yielded anything profound about why we have hair.

If it grows from your scalp, it's natural.

Rather a person wants to braid, twist, loc, color, relax, perm, wave or weave their hair; it is still natural. Texture and race have nothing to do with determining whose hair is natural. Again, if it grows from the scalp or skin; it is natural. 

The deliberate act of excluding others who do not look like you is along the lines of discrimination, racism, classism, sexism. When you clump people together and assume they are all the same and share your sentiments is stereotyping. I professionally and deliberately do not do business with any hair company, styling tool manufacturer and hair stylists who overtly or indirectly incorporate stereotyping in their scope of service for financial gain. When it is at the expense of uninformed people, it makes my skin cringe. 

Natural Hair

As much as I am a fan of social networking, I do not like it when I see people stereotyping the phrase, "natural hair." Then they have the audacity to take it to another level by indirectly cyberbullying and using overt racism by promoting that "natural hair" is a black thing. That type of behavior is exclusive. Natural hair is inclusive. Most humans are designed to grow natural hair. Therefore, promoting it as exclusive to one race or textured hair group of people is not true. Exclusion is mean spirited. It scares people and it confuses people. 

This "natural hair" movement in some ways is not moving.  The "natural hair" movement has an element of rhetoric that misinforms, divides and hurts. It is rhetoric that takes advantage of people who want to belong. It misleads those who are looking for solutions to hair styling challenges. It is also rhetoric that has an element of a clique that only a certain photo filtered shades of brown with made up faces and innuendos of being "black enough" is natural. That is wrong on every level and you know it. 

If you cut us open, humans are
pretty much wired the same!

Stereotyping happens to me often. I once participated in a "natural hair" event and was questioned the "naturalness" of my race and hair because my hair was artificially colored blonde. My hair is still blonde. Regardless if my hair is artificially colored or not; I am a woman of color and my hair is still natural. Challenging a person's authenticity of naturalness based on the color of their skin or if their hair is chemically altered or artificially enhanced is preposterous.  Suggesting that girls and women must somehow be validated as "natural" by images that rarely looks like them when they wake up and get on with their day is uberly unrealistic. That challenge and suggestion give way to a belief that "natural" is carefree and automatic. Natural is never carefree and automatic. Natural requires time, creativity, care, attention, and patience. 

In conclusion, as a licensed hair stylist, I know for certain that "natural hair" really does grow from the scalp of all who can grow hair. I know that "natural hair" is not a black thing. It is a biological thing.

I Hate Hair Cuts

There I stand behind the chair as my customer is sitting in the styling chair. We exchange pleasantries. Though she was smiling and sharing good news, I could tell something was troubling her. So I asked was everything okay. She responded, "I want to tell you something, but I'm afraid you'll get mad at me." I replied, "Unless you're gonna tell me my dad is not my dad, I promise I will not get mad."  LOL She laughed and said, "Well okay. I hate getting my hair cut. I never want to cut my hair again. Every time my hair grows, you cut off the length. So I was thinking that if I never get it cut, it will keep growing and I don't care how bad the ends look."

I responded, "Well you do not have too. It is your hair. And if you never want to cut it, then I won't cut it." I went on to explain how her hair was growing and that the amount that I was taking off were simply frayed ends. I told her how frayed ends compromise the performance and appearance of hair but that in no way would not cutting her hair be to her detriment. She jumped out the chair and gave me a hug! Quite naturally, never in a million years did I think she was going to say that not wanting me to cut her hair would give her that much fear. But hey, better out than in.

Also, quite naturally that inspired this week's blog ndogo. Hair cuts, hmmm. Hair cuts are probably the most hated service in the hair salon. Though I am no trichologist, I do specialize in the study of hair and scalp conditions. So what I do is use the training I received in Trichology to help empower each and every person who enters the salon to take charge of their hair. Taking charge means different things to different people. But somewhere between what the individual wants and me providing hair care services that does not compromise the scalp and hair; together we can find a happy medium. Me being a licensed professional has nothing to do with the choice a person makes regarding their own hair. However, being a cosmetologists is more like me being an  I do not wake up with her in the morning. I'm more like a servant of sorts. Like a butler. We are paid to do a service, if we do not cut hair or attend to their personal needs, no one is really at a lost. Realistically, my job falls under the category of discretionary. Therefore, why would I tell her she has to get her hair cut if she does not want to? The fact that I am licensed cosmetologist would not suffice. For it is simple; because she does not have to cut hair in order for me to be of service. 

For the record, hair cuts are mostly about hair styles. This customer was clear that she was not interested in any kind of a hair style of any facet. I also took the time to explain to her what happens to hair when it is not cut and what happens to hair when it is cut. Now, I will explain it to you. 

First things first.  Hair grows in 3 phases. The three phases are anagen, catagen and telogen. Anagaen which is the first phase is when hair is actively growing at the rate of about 1/4th inch per month. To achieve that 1/4th inch; hair is growing every single waking sleeping moment hour of the day by the influence of genetics, blood and hormones.  Each strand of hair on your head is growing at different rates for between 5 - 7 years. 

Each strand of hair has goes through these phases. Human hair
growth is not synchronized.

Next up is the catagen phase. Within those 5-7 years, each individual strand goes through a resting or transitional phase of some sorts for about 10 days. During that resting and transition phase, the hair is not growing. It is getting ready to come out of that teeny tiny follicle or hole that the hair grows out of so new hair can grow in.

Then immediately after the hair finishes resting during its categen phase, it now moves on to the telogen phase which is the last phase. The telogen phase last about 90 days (3 months). During this time the hair is literally in the process of coming out. This final phase is a success when you see a tiny white bulb attached to each individual strand as it prepares for a new one to come in. So now you see why hairstylists don't fret too much when you complain that your hair is coming out. Every day some strands are going through the telogen phase. And as long as we can see those bulbs, then it's on on and crackalackin. If we see more snapping pieces, that tells us that YOU are snatching it out some how some way and we have to go into servant mode to serve you and your hair.

This is a indicator that new hair
will be growing in. Technically, this
photo reflects dead hair.

As you guessed it, now, new strands start grow back in. So all that jive about back when you were a kid and your mom cut your hair or permed your hair and it never was the same is just that...jive. It does not matter what they did to your hair because between every 5-7 years, you'll be getting an entire new head of hair that will be physically different in appearance and texture as you age. So please, forgive your mom, aunt, grandma, sister or best friend. You can also stop telling that story and begin to nurture the new hair God is giving you that will grow (except in the instance of hair disorders where the hair will not grow).

So as you can see in the explanation of how hair grows, no where during the anagen, categen and telogen phase does the body have a licensed person with a pair of shears in your scalp making your hair grow. So hair cuts do not make hair grow nor do they stop hair from breaking off. When it comes to cutting, trimming, snipping and precision hair cuts, they have nothing to do with growing hair. No sir ree, those words have more to do with money than anything. If you get a snip, clip or trim; its free. But if you get a precision cut; welllll,  that too is another story. Because haircuts can range anywhere between $12.00 to $1,200.00. Yep, can you say, Ted Gibson (ooh, I love him so). So why then do we even cut hair? And what are the benefits of cutting hair, you ask? I look at it this way, a hair cut is to hair what selecting the right clothes size is to the body ...what selecting the right shoe size is for the feet. And so those varying types of haircuts are tailored for the individual style just as tailored suits, shirts and ties are for the individual style and budget. There are people who would pay $1,200 for a shirt and there are some who would pay that for a hair cut.  Now you see why L'oreal says, "You're worth it." They don't tell you this kind of stuff at your hair salon, do they?

There many people walking around wearing the wrong bra size, the wrong clothes size, the wrong shoe size, ill fitted shirts and snap on bow ties; and you know what? It suits them just fine. I mean no has ever died from wearing ill fitted anything. After all togas were fashionable during its day. But something about tailor made led to the mass production of all different types of clothing at different prices for different people with different styles which ended up paving the way for fashion like no other. So while the toga lost is chutzpah in the fashion world, it made its way over to a more befitting (no pun intended) scene over in the world of sleep in the category of mattresses to what we now call a "top sheet." lol

While the 3 phases of hair growth clearly demonstrates that cutting hair has nothing to do with those 3 phases, it does show that the more the hair grows and gets longer, the older hair is. So long hair is old hair. That then explains why longer hair can be priced differently at hair salons. In addition to physically taking more time and more product to care for and style long hair, we have to tend to it differently from shorter hair because shorter hair is typically stronger. The longer the hair; the older the hair; the more fragile the ends become. The ends of the hair is where we literally see the length. So if the ends of the hair are not properly cared for: snapping, splitting, fraying, swelling and ultimately breakage is the result. Cutting, snipping, trimming and precision hair cutting helps hair in 3 ways. 

The picture to the left reflects frayed ends that typically comes
from using the wrong comb and aggressive styling techniques.
This customer grew her hair WITHOUT getting any hair cuts.

The first benefit of hair cut is that it reduces the likelihood of hair splitting and snapping off by cutting of the pieces that are splitting. Now if the hair stylist does not cut off the entire split, the hair will continue to split. So it is either all or nothing depending on how long the splits are. If they splits are not too bad, they have some pretty expensive hair products that can mend or hold the ends together until it grows some and you can get your hair cut. I use them all the time for customers whose ends are too bad. The second benefit of a hair cut is performance. A hair cut definitely makes the hair perform better as it relates movement and flexibility to style it differently be it wash and wear, roller sets, blow drying it, curling it or smoothing it out. The last and final beneficial reason to getting your hair cut is the style, pizzazz, razzamatazz and yes even sex appeal! Hair cuts are an artistic expression of the individual and the hair fabric itself. Again, just as having a piece of fabric cut professionals to fit your body type is so very different from going to TJ Maxx and buying a generic size 16 to fit your body type. I mean their is customizing and then there is sizing. So hair cuts in the varying forms of snipping, clipping, trimming, shaving, and precision cutting can be interpreted as a necessary artistic expression for those who want it at different prices from the varying skilled or unskilled people who cut hair. 

For those who are reading this blog and is frowning upon my advice of telling my customer that she doe not have to get her hair cut; don't be mad. Because, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that all hair cuts are not equal. All I am going to say about hair cuts are a few bewares. Beware of those FREE trims. Beware of "snip/clip ends." Beware of those, "Imma just take a little off." Why? Remember all hair strands in humans do not grow at the same time, right? So getting those free trims and all that jive is like NOT getting you hair cut at all. If you are not getting a precision cut from a licensed professional who can properly go throughout your entire head of hair and give it some sort of shape and balance so that it can do some amazing things, then get out the chair. In addition, inquire about their skill set and training. Ask what techniques have they learned lately. Ask to see their certificates. Ask who do they constantly work under or with. I mean doctors, attorney and professors do. You are better off without the hair cut if the hair stylist can not answer at least 3 of those questions. Any professional who cuts hair can tell you that just because someone has a cosmetology license, does not mean that they can cut hair proficiently. I am so serious about the entire team of hairstylists at the salon learning how to cut and style hair, I have consistently  hired the local top stylists, Stephano, Kris Blu, Dr. Spritz Nuccio and Cheryl Basilisco to train, certify and keep us on point. And our customers love it. In addition, the entire Reverence Design Team have been trained in Volumetrics hair cutting over at S.P.A.C.E. in Pittsburgh, Pa.  LaKeisha Glenn, my business partner and myself were certified in Volumetrics hair cutting by Philip Pelusi and Jeffrey Reitz personally. Training, collaborations and receiving certification are proven and effective bragging rights.  

LaKeisha to the left and me to the WRIGHT, oops my
other right!

As for the ends breaking off, welllllll TBH, those ends are simply tearing for about 4 reasons. The first is the obvious, they are being snatched, pulled and torn by aggressive styling techniques (combing with the wrong comb, twisting the ends during hair enhancement services, drying out from heat products or your hands which produce friction/heat and lastly, too much moisture). Refrain from using water based anything on your hair if you want to NOT cut it and keep it long.  Again, I must reiterate; "You do not have to get it cut if you do not want to." Preserving the length without cutting is all about pampering those ends so they don't break off, split and tear as fast as that 1/4th inch grows from your scalp. If the hair is cut properly, technically it should look better as it grows out, and during that final month a hair cut is due. Preferably under a full moon. 

So if you want to keep the look, you will have to cut it every 4-6 weeks. If you do not want to keep the look then cutting hair every 10-12 weeks will suffice and you will be able to maintain some sort of style as you grow it out to get a new hair cut or just to grow it long. In the event you never want your hair cut; then don't cut it. Just understand that a hair style of any sorts is out of the picture. I always tell my customers, "If you want long hair; ya gotta keep the scissors out of it." And for those customers who complain how their hair looks awful only after paying for hair cut last month. I always respond, "Like dude, Philip Pelusi taught me that weight is the enemy of all hair styles. So that 1/4 inch of hair that just grew this month, basically is giving me a new canvas to either recreate last month's hair cut or do something new all together." They they go, "Oh."

I taught my customer how this picture
depicts what NOT to do your hair. It is
the wrong curling iron, wrong size and wrong
technique for that length and texture of
hair.

In the end, I took the time to listen to her. To hear what she was really saying so that I could meet her needs versus using the fact that I am a licensed professional who has some implied authority over her hair. Because I do not. In addition, I took the time to teach her how to care for her hair in between salon visits so that her hair would not fray, split and break off.  I gave her the pure and unadulterated truth of what will happen to her hair if she deviates in any form from her hair lessons. I drew pictures, used analogies and finally I did some good old fashioned hands on lessons to get her inspired to do the right thing by her hair. Hair care and how to do it, works best when customized. While I am a fan of YOUTUBE like many, understand that those are generalizations and should be used just for that; in general. If you want to learn about your hair and how to do it, it is best that you be the model in the lesson. Be prepared for some learning curves. But know that it can be done. 

The best part of my job!

As a licensed cosmetologist, I love cutting hair just like a chef loves cooking. And like a chef, I am of the mindset that you do not have to do status quo to achieve some amazing healthy, tasty and pleasant looking food in order to serve some tasty dishes, The same can be said for hair. All you really need are the basics and a little ingenuity. 

While I could have focused on the flip side of not getting a hair cut and scared her with a few scenarios about the dangers of never cutting her hair, I stepped outside the box and gave her what she wanted. In stepping out that box, I took the initiative to teach her what "no hair cut" means for her hair since she never wants to cut it. I am not saying that not cutting hair is for everybody. It all depends on what the individual is trying to achieve with their hair. Because I understand that no two heads of hair are like, I refrain from the "cookie cutter" approach to hair care and hair styling. And just like a size 16 does not look on me the way it will on the next person; the same can be said about a hair a cut.