Sunday, February 2, 2020

Dumb Hairstylists and Barbers?



Beauty and Barber education for dummies?
Image: Google
Did you know, “Egyptians are typically regarded as being the first “cosmetologists,” due to archeological discoveries of primitive make-up kits, and, of course, the Egyptian art that shows us how and where they wore make-up. They were known to neighboring cultures for “painting their eyes” using eyeliner and primitive mascara – and in a style and manner that is still replicated today whenever someone wants to emulate the Cleopatra look. Egyptians used kohl for eyeliner, as well as a galena, which was a type of lead. Red ochre was also used to redden the lips, which was crushed into a powder. Then the Romans, the Greeks and others soon followed the precedent set by the Egyptians?”

The history of beautification did not begin during the 1800’s. The history of beauty began before Christ! In addition to history, there is much skill, science, art and creativity in the disciplines of beauty and barbering. Unfortunately, a few powers that be in the state of Ohio do not care. Currently, there are three bills being introduced in the state of Ohio to lower the standards of education in cosmetology and barbering. HB 399, SB 245 and SB 235. These bills represent the belief that the science, skill and artistry are of little value; not to mention history. Lowering cosmetology and barbering standards hurts in three way. The first way is via education. The biggest impact to both industries will be felt immediately when they lower educational standards/hours. The second way are the standards to actually perform the services and the third is the ability to address the diversity of our industry. Let us explore.

The benefits of education are to learn, do, resolve complex problems and gain exposure. When educational requirement on any level are lowered, the communities from which the people reside are at risk. Licensed professionals will lower education will be limited in their abilities to learn, do, problem solve and gain more exposure. The community will be at risk to lower paying jobs. They will not have the ability to ask or fight for better pay. They will be at the mercy of their employer to be trained and taught by what the company gives. The exchange for training or apprenticeships, as we call it in the beauty industry, is grid locked. That is correct. Lowering educational standards by way of decreased hours, decreases the ability to leave Ohio and work in surrounding or other states that require more. In exchange, those people can come into Ohio, but licensed beauty and barber pros from Ohio can not enter their markets.
Education matters.
image: vivateachers.org

Believe it or not, the beauty and barber industries do have standards. The educational standards of cosmetology (hair, skin and nails) and barbering are pretty much governed by the state and NACAS (National Accrediting Commission of Cosmetology Arts and Sciences. Yes, accredited beauty and barber schools must meet certain academic and institutional requirements. If one does not attend an accredited school in any discipline, their credibility is compromised and questioned. Standards translates into what we do behind the chair. When standards are lowered, the what we do becomes lowered. State and government officials who have no knowledge of the intricacies of what it takes to style, create and care for in the matters of hair, skin and nails have no business suggesting or introducing bills to lower our education.

They do not understand how standards, coupled with quality education, enables licensed beauty and barber professionals to open salons and barbershops to meet the needs of the ever-changing scope of citizenship and beauty in America. Lowering educational standards, changing the meaning of hair styles, barbering and scientific terms in the name of favoring one’s way to expand and control the industry over another is morally and economically wrong. Yes, I am eluding to the reality that these types of changes impede, hurt and will in some instances eliminate our ability to do what we do behind the chair. These changes are often supported and even initiated by billion-dollar chain salons such as Great Clips and product manufacturers, such as Paul Mitchell. In addition, they typically persuade the very association created to support both industries, such as the PBA (Professional Beauty Association) to come over to their side of the fence. So, you see doing hair, skin and nails is at risk of being a cookie cutter profession. A cookie cutter approach to hair, skin and nails will only result in customers having the options to look like each other as they purchase from a menu where everyone will have cookie cutter options. So, to all the supporters of HB 399 and SB 245 such as the franchise Ohio owner, Clara Osterhage of 70 Great Clips salon, Mr. Charles Penzone of Penzone Salons, Nicole Cumberland, owner two Paul Mitchell Schools in Ohio and HR-Stephanie Howse (D) and Sen. Sandra R. Williams creators of SB 235 to eliminate education and regulation of natural hairstylists, I say, “Really?”

Chain and corporate salons and barbershops having control over the employment pool and the employed is bad. Having control over the industry compromises booth renting options. If those any or a combination of those bills pass, chain salons and corporate salons will be competing with booth renters. And that will be a sure shot to disaster. Hair, skin and nails have physical, social, cultural, financial and physical ties to them. Creating an industry that divides people according to their skin color and hair texture is sheer madness to this sheer shot disaster. Consumers are demanding a more diverse, creative, socially conscious, spiritual and price conscious beauty and barber professional. They want access to these professionals. They want to know what they use, who they get it from, where they get it, how they got, when can they get it again and why. In addition, they must perform creatively exceptionally well behind the chair. That is the pulse of the cosmetology and barber industry. The future of the industry must grow in education, skill set, technology, science, business, taxes, diversity and wholistic wellness in order to meet the demands and survive.

Are we ready? Are the Ohio politicians creating another revolving door to cycles of poverty, structural racism, new slums, ghettos and white flighted suburbs? These are the same places inundated with chain salons, chain barbershops and diverted filled grocery stores, pharmacies and discount outlets. These places promote a distinct cookie cut climate of hair, nail and skin care options. Those options continually read the “ethnic” aisle, beauty supply stores, $10 cuts, fast cuts, hillites and JPMS. To make matters worse, the dividedness and segregation will clump all people of color with textured hair into a service setting of people who look like them; as if people of other ethnicities and nationalities do not want or can perform those services. As if all customers of associated races, ethnicities and nationalities are the same. They are not.

The public, beauty and barber professionals have the biggest voice. Show up to the Ohio State Board of Cosmetology meetings, committee and senate hearing. We have might and power in us between our fingertips and wrists; vote. The cosmetology and barbering education and profession requires more education. The beauty and barber industry is not for dummies.

Thursday, January 16, 2020

Combing and Brushing Hair

     Combing and brushing hair is important to hair care. Hairstylists encourage clients to care for their hair in between salon visits.  However, there are two school of thoughts about combing and brushing hair. First, is the notion, a paid for hair style requires no home maintenance.  Second is the notion to freely recreate your hair style at home. Which notion causes the biggest ruckus? The first one.

     To those who believe home hair care is not needed because it was professionally styled and paid for, may I suggest you lose that notion? For starters, a hairstyle is different from a school of thought. Hairstyles are physical and tangible. Hair styles are affected by the environment, weather and the human touch; unlike beliefs. Hair is not a concept. Hair is physical; it requires maintenance. Combing is mandatory to preserve the integrity of certain hairstyles and scalp. On the other hand there are certain hair styles that do not require a comb. Braids, locs, twists, extension and spiked hair styles do not require frequent combing, but they do require scalp care. Brushing is helpful because it stimulates and exfoliates the scalp. Brushing smooths hair and keeps it shiny.

     Combing and brushing hair is primarily a personal preference influenced by the hairstyle, the  home/environment or and hairstylist. Honestly, there is no science or rule that says textured hair should be combed more or less compared to others without texture. Parents, caregivers, hairstylists and barbers can assist in teaching which comb or brush is best for your hair. They can also assist in teaching the frequency needed to comb or and brush hair.

     Hairstylists, like den prefer customers to care for their hair in between salon visits, just as the dentist wants his patients to care for their teeth in between dental visits. Home hair care is vital to healthy hair, beautiful and super savings!
    
Brushing is not an absolute must in hair care. However, brushing hair is excellent for smoothing, promoting shine and scalp stimulation. Too much brushing can have adverse effect just as too much combing. The one hundred strokes theory is a tad bit outdated, but brushing a few strokes a day surely promotes sheen and blood flow. As for combing, combs are some the most oldest ancient artifacts found at many excavations sites around the world. Some combs even pre-date Christ. I encourage people to comb their hair several (4-6 times) throughout the day to redistribute oils from scalp to ends. This promotes exfoliates the scalp, promotes growth and keeps the ends of hair from drying out and breaking. Many with textured hair complain of not achieving length or believe their hair is not or will not grow because they never can achieve length. In my opinion, lack of combing, using the wrong comb and the wrong techniques are the culprit more than anything.

     There are many different kinds of combs and brushes. Haircare and hair styling are about the right products, the right tools and the right techniques. Be sure you have considered and incorporated all three into the decision making and actions of caring for and styling your hair.
A Journey to Nubia & Kemet by
Angel D. Harriott

     To get an interesting take on the history of combing hair, I recommend my readers to watch "400 Years Without a Comb," a documentary by Dr. Willie Morrow. It is available on YouTube. To learn about the rich history of the ancients and to get an excellent view of ancient combs, read Angel D. Harriott's, A Journey to Nubia & Kemet. Harriott's book is written for children to young adults. It explores African history, culture and contribution. I use it in all my presentations and at the salon to validate Africans contribution to hair and hair styling. This is one of my favorite books. As hairstylists, parents and caretakes, we should have great reading material and a good comb on hand for our clients and loved ones.