Showing posts with label ladosha. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ladosha. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 16, 2017

The Strength of Hair

One of the most interesting things about being a hairstylist is the large number of customers who have so much misinformation about hair.
Ewe, damaged hair!

Prior to becoming a hair stylist, I worked in the social service field. I could see the connection between this new phenomenon called "the internet" and the inquiry of hair care. It was as if every woman was on a personal quest to find out about the behind the scenes of hair. They wanted to know what is going and what is not going on in the hair salon. So to that point, it was in social work that I learned just how little information customers were getting about their own hair in spite of paying hundreds of dollars for months and for many years to have their hair cared for and styled.
The agency I worked for would on occasionally pay for hair styles to use them as incentives for positive reinforcement for clients. So while they were being motivated to grow via an occasional hair style, some of that was done in vane because many walked away with just that; a hair style. During that time many women revealed much disappointment in their salon experience by way of the conversation being focused on the stylist, social issues and gossip. The disclosed just how little hair care and care of their own hair was being discussed.This type of service was unfortunate. Those services were truly being paid for with the intent to promote a positive image of self. Many walked away feeling as if their incentive was purely for the financial gain for the stylist as they got a hair style for the moment.

While I no longer work in the field of of social service, as a hair stylist, I still see the conflict women have with their hair and their image. The struggle is real for those with textured hair trying desperately and consistently to find solutions to the challenges of caring for textured hair. 

Rather it is wash and wear, twist out, corn rows, press and curl, silk press, weaves, roller sets, braids, bantu knots, locks, coils, hair cuts, hair color, bald heads and everything in between; the challenge of how to achieve and maintain remains a very frustrating enigma. What is a girl or guy to do? How could it be, that I've spent hundreds of dollars on hair care products and salon visits and I am still not satisfied with my hair? 

The answer lies in the anatomy of each strand of hair. When people think of their hair or touch it, they often associate the head of hair as a bulk versus each individual strand. I feel in my heart that taking people on simple visual  journey of their unique fiber (regardless the texture) can help make the daunting tasks of hair care not daunting! Notice,I did not write easy or quick. Caring for textured hair is not quick or easy. Caring for textured hair is routine. It requires a regimen. Once you get into your regimen, it becomes habitual; not necessarily easy. The more you fight the reality of the regimen your unique fiber requires, the more daunting the task of hair care and hair styling will indeed be. 

To make hair care and hair styling compliment your lifestyle; take the time to get a clear understanding and knowing that hair care is something you must do for your hair on a daily basis.. From there pick a day(s), time(s), and commit to it. Hair care and grooming is very similar to oral care, fabric care and body care. If you don't do it in a timely fashion with the right products, right tools and the right technique; bad teeth, bad breath, faded clothes, bad skin and body odor is the result. So while you may tire of personal, oral hygiene routine, you do it. Ultimately, you get in the habit or routine of  managing them all. You understand what it takes in its entirety and what is required to preserve the life and appearance of them all.

This is a result of the wrong comb, products
and hair styling techniques.
Understanding the hair on your head is simple requires the same thought processes and acceptance that a routine is a must. To help you get your hair care routine mojo going below outlines a few VISUAL guided facts about hair and scalp that will give you a clear depiction of exactly what is going on top of that head of your!










Drum roll please:
  • Know that the scalp is a microbial habitat that needs to be cleansed once to twice a week.
  • See each strand of hair for what it's worth. One of many! 
  • Each strand of hair has multiple cuticle layers that look like shingles on a roof.
  • The objective in hair care is to keep those layers in tact.
  • Keeping those layers in tact protects the cortex.
  • The cortex where hair gets its the strength.
  • The cuticle and cortex is strengthened by using the right products, styling tools and right technique.
  • Wide tooth combs scrape, tear and compromise the outer cuticle layer; thus further compromising the cortex layer.
  • Using water to style hair causes the outer cuticle layer to swell, buckle and snap. This too further exposes the cortex layer.
  • Applying conditioners and synthetic oils to the scalp will clog the mouth of the follicle. 
  • The mouth of the follicle is the tiny whole each hair grows from.
  • When the mouth of follicle is clogged, hair growth becomes compromised rapidly.
There is much hype about the outer layer of hair as it relates to the cuticle. While cuticle care is vital to hair care, remember the color of hair and the true strength of hair lies in the cortex layer. And in hair care, the goal is to protect that cortex layer of the hair to ensure great curls, braids, color, weave, textures, waves, fros, kinks and everything in between. 

Seeming as color and strength are pretty much the primary goal or concern of many when it comes to the appearance and performance of hair, I hope this helps.

Do not make hair care difficult. Keep it simple. Find a routine that suits what your hair fiber calls for and stick to it until it changes. When the texture of your changes, change your regimen. The texture of your hair will change as you age. 

As long as you recognize that protecting that cortex is what is truly responsible for the integrity of each strand of hair, then you too will KNOW the strength of your hair!


Sunday, January 1, 2017

Happy New Hair

On January 1st, after the clock turned 12:00 am, I decided to surf social media for inspiration for my first blog of 2017. What was trending most was the amount of deaths in the entertainment industry of some of the industry's finest, The MMA fighter, Ronda Rousey's beat down from Amanda Nunes and what many were hashtagging as the #epicfall of the millennium; the one, the only, Mariah Carey's lackluster lip-synced live television performance. 

Because no one knows their last moment, death is imminent for us all. Yet, the shocking passing of the legends who have entertained, inspired and molded some of our fondest memories stunned many. However, most believe their legacies will live on through the undying support of fans who continue to watch or listen to their varying forms of entertainment. Needless to say, the buzz around the MMA fight and the Dick Clark's New Year's Eve televised historic ball drop was the jaw-dropping, gossip fueled, disappointing, shocking events that sent everyone to their phones, tablets, and computers to post what I would describe for, Ronda and Mariah, "stay ready and you ain't gotta get ready" moments.

This blog aims to help us set the new year off right. If you "wasn't ready" for the 2016 most shocking moments. Then this blog aims to get you ready for success in all the things your heart's desire. This blog is going to highlight the benefits of keeping both your heads and hair together. In order to do that, should "auld acquaintance be forgot, and never brought to mind?" 

Yes. And, it's the good old, "out with the old. In with the new" attitude that is going to help us enter the new year with a mind and hair that will be clean in 2017. The many themes of letting go of old things, bad habits, weight gain, boring people, mischievous lovers and meaningless careers are amongst the top things most people want to ditch from the previous year. Now they want to bring in the new year with an amazing zest and zeal for life. 

Believe it or not, hair is on the resolution list of many people for the new year. As people strive to make themselves and their lives better in the new year, they want to do it all in good taste with a good image. What better way to modify things for the new year than to complement it with a beautiful head of hair? Rather, you are resolving to care for your hair or buy some new hair to wear; care is the operative for both options. 

If you are among the millions who resolve to have no #epicfailures in thoughts or hair care. Then read on as I write out 5 great ways to "care" by having both beautiful thoughts and great hair in 2017. In addition to reading what was trending on social media after the new year came in, I attended a spiritual celebration, The Feast of Sekhmet that honored the Kemetic (Egyptian) deity, Sekhmet whose who is a warrior and goddess that represents divine femininity. Sekhmet translates into power. 

Great thoughts and great hair begin with clean. At the Reverence Design Team Hair Salon located in Cleveland Heights where I work, our theme for 2017 is encouraging our customers to come clean. We want them to be clean in thought and use the word "clean" symbolically in other areas in their lives.

So in the spirit of having healing and power over our lives, goals and destiny these 5 tips will surely aid you in your resolution to be clean and epic in thoughts and beauty in 2017:

  1. Start each morning with clean thoughts and a crystal clear vision of how you want to see your day come to full fruition in divine order. Meditate and speak your desires into existence. What better way to do this to cleanse your thoughts than to do so as you shampoo your hair? Rather, you are shampooing your hair at night or in the morning, clean thoughts and clean hair will get your day going. As you scrub away dirt, debris, and yeast from your scalp; scrub away negative thoughts and memories of what you don't want.  Speak or whisper your desires as you scrub. For a man thinketh, so is he. Choose only good thoughts and have crystal clear visions of the life you wish to have as you scrub your scalp and gently cleanse your hair.  If you are wearing artificial hair (sew-in, weave, or fusion), a dry shampoo method of using your favorite essential oil, Listerine, Seabreeze or Decca Plus' Scalp Therapy with a cotton ball is best. Simply apply the product of your choice to a cotton ball or a white face cloth and scrub the fibrin (flakes) away from the scalp. Remember, speak or whisper your desires into existence. This will cleanse the scalp, keep your hair smelling fresh and your thoughts clear. 
  2. After cleaning your thoughts, hair and speaking your crystal clear vision of your abundance and prosperous day into existence, CONDITION your mind and hair with the best. Rather, you are reading the bible, a book or listening to a CD; condition your mind throughout the day that all is well and that you are deserving. When it comes to conditioning your hair, always apply the conditioner to the ends of your hair first because they are the oldest and most fragile part of your hair. Afterward, apply the conditioner to rest of your hair. Be sure the pH is between a 4.5 and 5.5. A low pH conditioner can decrease tangles and the hair absorbs the good ingredients in the conditioner. If you are wearing artificial hair, I recommend the use a quality leave in conditioner such as Decca Plus' Satin Tame to help maintain the look and feel of your hair as well as extend the life of the hair you paid for.
  3. Now that you have conditioned your thoughts and hair, you can now prep yourself for the style. Style begins in the mind. Begin to prep your mind by sticking to the words you spoke. Live by your words. Don't just merely recite an affirmation, if you have no intention living and doing good by them. Your every action, your every movement must be intentional to reflect what you visioned and spoke. NO excuses. If you fall off your vision and word, correct yourself and get back on the good foot by doing and being who you say you are. You hold yourself accountable. The same actions are needed for a great hair style. Be sure you protect your hair (real or fake) with the right products and styling tools. The cost and the source will be up to you. Be true to your image or it will be fake to you. No amount of posting can offset an #epicfailure with your appearance if you do not prepare and invest the time and quality of products and styling tools that will yield the results that reflect who you say you are with style. 
  4. Ok, we have the thoughts, actions, and hairstyle in motion. We are doing and being true to our words. We are styling our hair. Now it's time to comb it out. The best way to become an #epicfailure in person and in style is to not wear it well. It is very unspiritual to have fear. A good dose of fear is ok especially if you see a car heading towards you, that alerts you to move. Other than that, no fear. Wear your clean thoughts and hair; conditioned mind and hair with style and confidence. Get rid of the fear. Do something throughout the day that is in alignment with your desires. Do something throughout the day to your hair and face. Not many people can pull beauty off for 8 or more hours without some form of touching it up! Do not care what others will think of you taking a moment to spruce your look. Remember, you are doing you. This is the, 2017 where you have decided to come clean. Clean in your thoughts, actions and hair!
  5. Now that you are wearing it well. You are living the reminder of your focus for the day
    toward the big picture of your life. You see yourself in the leading role. You are passionate about your actions. Now start all over and repeat. The same applies to your hair. You may not need to wet shampoo and condition your hair daily, but you do need to start the day off with re-styling your hair. It is imperative to remind yourself your intentions and spruce up our hair and makeup throughout the day. Hair can not be slept on with no re-grooming. Rather you are reproducing the same look, wearing it pulled back, picked out, brushed down or shining a bald head; it needs upkeep. No excuses for bad thoughts and actions. No, excuse for dirty bad hair or bald heads in 2017.
Be epic all the time. A fall from grace typically is a reflection of lack of preparation or bad thoughts. Create the time to honor and give thanks for the gift of being divine. Live, act, do and be accordingly. Do not post a pretty picture with ugly thoughts. Do not post an ugly picture with pretty thoughts. We are all divine. We are all in his likeness and image. 

So should, "auld acquaintance be forgot and never brought to mind?"


Of course not, Happy New Year!

#epicsuccess #becleanin2017

Sunday, January 4, 2015

The Most Wonderful Time of the Year

It's the most wonderful time of the year
Where this hair care blogger will be of good cheer 
As I critique the best and worst hair styles of the year!

In 2014 we saw some interesting hairstyles come across our varying screens. With the ability to see what is going on in the entertainment industry, or the ability to see the person sitting directly across from you without them even knowing it is pretty interesting. In addition, photos can be posted to social networks like Facebook, Twitter, Snap Chat, The Vine and now the ever trending can't do without it, scrolling through your phone as you ignore people, Instagram. They all have the ability to give us an immediate glimpse into the world of the masses caught on camera by others, photographers, paparazzi and selfie masters world wide.

As we all know there are pros and cons to this sweeping phenomena called "sending" and posting to social networking. The pros of course are exposure to what is caught on camera by way of sending, following, getting followed, getting liked and now hashtagged. While filtering does wonders of hiding, blending and accentuating what we like and dislike about a photo; it does not save you from the world of those who like to compliment and critique. Rather the complimenting and critiquing is done by the every day, all day; anytime "sms/mms sending," or the 24 hour non stop inundated talk show hosts gossiping, funny and loquacious radio disk jockeys joke telling or screen shooting to repost... SMH, it is all exposure none the least. 

So as 2014 has come to an end, it truly is the most wonderful time of the year where I get to add my two cents about the popular and not so popular hairstyles of 2014. Drum roll please:


She did that; that thang!
The Sock Bun. For a minute there, I was getting kind of excited that women from all over were paying us hair stylists top dollars to create this vintage look that is very easy to do as well as maintain until, the "As Seen on TV" infomercial introduced the masses to a simple way to re-create the look at home. I know; but I ain't gone hate. It truly is simple to do when you have enough hair...lol
Way too much weave

Next up, Weaves, the R&B Divas LA. I could not resist. Honestly, I have never seen it. Well, from the looks of this Google image with their hair weaves jumping out atcha, this photo is worth a thousand words and I will just pick the shortest word that comes to my mind...FAKE! I admit, I have no concept of how to create a hair weave by any stretch of the imagination. Yet, I am truly of a fan of the option to transform oneself just because you can. However, reality shows that are full of fake everything gets my "hair styling" goat. I am of the understanding of the skills it takes to wear a weave let alone make a weave; but when every Reality TV show casts women wearing fake hair during almost every show and photo op; the fake hair actually takes away from the reality of  real hair styling...LMAO 


The incomparable Jill!
Next, Funky Spiky Hair. The incomparable songstress extraordinaire, the lady Jill Scott tore it up in 2014. While I was not a fan of her blonde weave on the cover of Essence this year, I loved the versatility of a woman who can do what ever she likes. Especially when she does it well. I was attempting to think of all kinds of fascinating things to say about Jill Scott, but her hair speaks for itself...YOLO

Ok, Natural Hairstyles. This one was an easy... but the SMH of the millennium goes to the entire United States Armed Forces. That is right the United States Armed Forces took a stance earlier this year to say that "braids wider than 1/4 inch and artificially enhanced braid and twist styles violate the code." Code, schmode. They get a big fat WTF! This is the most wonderful time of the year to honor the women who leave their families behind to go out into the world to make it safe for us to do everything from blog to buying the fake hair and everything in between. And the best the gov'ment can come up with is a "code" to violate hair styling. "Tisk, come on, don't gimme dat!" In my Biz Markie voice. United States Armed Forces, yall got me twisted on this one! I would love to sign that petition to have that changed. While the Armed Forces give these braid styles a violation without a salute, I give them two thumbs up and a salute! ...IJS

I hope they change this one day soon.

Weaves that look bad in photos in any year. This one is so difficult for me. Because 2014 really went HAM on posting and selfies, I have to blog about it. I love to be in photos and I take my share of selfies. But, the truth of the matter is that if it looks bad in a photo; you know it looks worse in real life. So, it is also that time of the year to inform Ne Ne Leaks that her weaves do not look nice in photos. There are many hairstylists who can create her a more polished natural looking and PHOTOGENIC weave. Why do the people who work around her do not tell her that her hair looks like the "Little People" toys in her photos? Can you say, "The Emperors New Clothes?" If there was one celebrity I would love to hear the truth about how wiggy and plastered on her weave look, it is her. NeNe is a beautiful woman. Her skin is flawless. Her smile and attire are always pristine. I don't care if she has had a little lift and tuck; she is beautiful as she is statuesque. However her hair is too fake for a woman that is so very real...TTYL
This is what happens when you surround yourself with...



Ahh, on to Long Layers. All by her wittle lonesome in 2014, the first lady Michelle Obama is set the tone for versatility in a world of diversity. Michelle Obama wears the kind of hair almost any woman, with any image of any race on varying income levels can relate to. Her hairstylist is excellent at reflecting and capturing what makes her tick...her personality. I love the new color. I love the hair cut. I love the way she keeps herself looking nice and adjusts her image to what the work day or life calls for...HAK (hugs and kisses)

I love it!

Next, the Pony Tail! Rhianna shut it down in 2014 hair style wise. As iconic is her taste in fashion and attitude, so is her flair for hair. The pony tail, by far, is the most under rated and most hated hair style. As a hair stylist, I do not know why. A pony tail does wonders when time is of the essence, money is low, products are no where to be found, water is not near by and when a comb is just too much to bear. I love the pony tail. In 2014 there were so many takes on the pony tail. I loved them all. For Rhianna to wear one during a very personal and formal occasion, further proves my case.  In the infamous words of my favorite world renowned make up artist Renny Vasquez, "You betta ...CYE (check yo email)!"

Last but not least, Not Knowing How to Do Your Own Hair hair style. It is the year 2014, believe it or not there remains a large number of hair stylists who continue to service women and not make sure they know how to re-create that "paid for" hair style in between salon visits. It remains the number one thing in the beauty industry that I do not like the most. Image for many is very important. It is not uncommon that I come across women and men who do not have the courage to stand up for how they want to look; let alone how to do it. This can be an issue for those who have not developed a sense of individuality or a skill of how to do their own hair. Yet as hair stylists it is imperative that like a doctor who never gives up on a patient, we should never give up on teaching someone the basics of preserving or creating a hair style. With that being wrote, absolutely nooooooo woman comes to mind as I write this last example of hair styling at home gone wrong than Pam Oliver. I would be some kind of not wonderful if I was to give a bad review on her hair style.

Supposedly, she mostly does it herself. And unfortunately doing so cost her her job. This one is difficult too because it more than demonstrates the most un-talked about topic in hair care and hair styling; not knowing how to do your own hair.....SOS

Make the time to take the time to learn your hair.
SOS, help, assistance, guidance and the likes is what Ms. Oliver needed. While I am not sure if she has hair underneath her wigs and weaves, I am certain that she somehow lost herself along the way. Many women see hair as an accessory. Hair is not and accessory. Your hair is an intricate part of you as your personality. Like her, I have been put under the pressure to look nice on a moments notice with limited hair styling options. Though I have never worn a weave, styled one or even applied one; I am sure that with proper guidance and strong foundation of who she is; this unwanted hair style of shame could have been avoided.

So with that being said, I am a fan of inspiration. There is nothing wrong with throwing a wig on in a pinch and incorporating it into a style that you call your own. I am a even bigger fan of being uniquely you. In 2015, make the time to take the time to learn your hair. When it comes to hair be it your hair or hair additions, I highly recommend taking the time out to investigate, consult with and invest in a stylist who can help you help yourself as you grow and change with your image. Do not puppet your image. Do not surround yourself with people who tell you what you want to hear. 

There will be much hair styles a showing
And hair will be growing
When hair stylists are or not near
It's the most wonderful time of the year!

Happy new year...







Sunday, December 28, 2014

A Few of My Favorite Things!

A Few of My Favorite Things
Raindrops on roses; a Aston Martin to get in
Bright copper jewelry and brown furry mittens
Brown leather Chanel purse and a lot of bling bling
These are a few of my favorite things..

In the spirit of holiday singing and shopping, I revised this song just for this blog!

And, I would be some kind of blogger if I did not write about a few of my favorite and not so favorite things as the year comes to an end. In 2014 some creative folk introduced some interesting hair styling tools to help make this "getting cute thing" easier. Play The Supremes as you read this blog to see if any of your purchases or interests makes the list. 

Throughout the year, I periodically relapse into Ladosha the Hair care junkie. I just can't help it. I'm a hair stylist is my excuse. I try very hard to stick with tradition and stay on course. But then it hits me; the magazine articles, the sales reps, the customers exciting inquiries of "have you heard about..." and it's all down hill before I slip into the abyss of hair styling tools that I just swear will make my work day and my own hair styling better.  So as the year comes to an end my cravings for hair styling tools does as well. During my on again off again binges, I have spent my money and time playing around with and trying out these tools trying to get my next hair fix. Not that I am trying to encourage or discourage anyone, but here is my take on my 2014 hair fix relapses. Some have been worth the trip and others brought me back to reality. Drum roll please...



Air Curler
The Air Curler, in the infamous words of former President, George W. Bush, "Not one iota." In the very vast multi-trillion dollar world of hair care and it's infinite options of what to buy to style your tresses, this one does not cut the muster. Enough typed. Nexxxxxxt.....


Mira Curler
The Mira Curl by BaByliss Pro got my goat. It was the one tool that catapulted my relapse into the abyss! There I stood in the supply store that is supposedly "exclusively" for licensed cosmetologists, in awe as my heart raced as my eyes peered over at this apparatus. Initially, I tried to resist. I thought, "Now this supply store is suppose to be for licensed cosmetologists and barbers only, even though over half the products are sold over the counter how credible can this thang be?" You would have thought the price would have deterred me, but noooooo (in my John Belushi voice), like a feign; I tried it any way and I bought it. And, I liked it. That thang actually worked. It worked on all hair textures, hair weaves. It worked exactly liked the directions and the advertisement said it would. Of course that is rare, but hey this styling tool "creates perfect curls every time!" If you must, treat yourself. I even sold a few to my customers! 

The In Styler, a team of "esteemed 
hairstylists Bruno Meglio, Claudio Marino a design engineer and entrepreneur Michael Ragosta originally partnered with co-inventor Dave Richmond and invented this apparatus" as quoted from their website. While they may be esteemed, creative, dynamic and probably wealthy; they obviously have not consistently tried it on their own hair. I tried to desperately work this one out. However, because I specialize in hair care and not hair styling, I gave this one a
thumbs down. The "In Styler" is to hair what the "Fat Burner Belt" is to belly fat; not very effective. It sounds good in theory but what about practice? In theory, hair has many layers. The first layer is the cuticle (outer layer- what hair is mostly comprised of). Then there is the second layer, the cortex (where the strength and integrity of the hair is). The third layer is the medulla (this layer is absent in fine hair and the verdict is still out on why it's absent in fine hair).  Now considering your hair has all these layers, in practice, when you take a metal coated heated spinning barrel rotating in unison with a synthetic brush bristles, what do you think you get? You do not have to be a hair stylist who specializes in hair care to figure that one out.


I use this one weekly!
Next up, the Maxi Glide. The name says it all. It gives the maximum performance in SAFELY gliding through textured hair resulting in silky smooth, tangle free hair. This one was highly recommended to me during one of those, "Hey, have you heard about..." customer who came to the salon after relocating to Cleveland, Ohio from New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina wiped away her community. I recall anxiously staying up late; night after night to catch the infomercial she told me about. For nights, I missed it. Then finally, I caught it. I watched it and in my Judy Tenuta voice, I said, "It could happen." So I called the 1-800 number to purchase it. I use it to this very day. It is the next best thing to a Kentucky Maid straightening comb (for those of us with thick, dense, wavy, curly and Afro textured hair). For the cry baby, for beginner, for those who do not like taking hours to flat iron and for those who are afraid they might burn themselves...this IS the perfect flat iron.


Speaking of Kentucky Maid, that leads me into my next favorite thing, the Kentucky Maid Straightening Comb. While Madame CJ Walker gets all the credit for inventing the straightening comb, her great great grand daughter Alelia Bundles wrote a book about the life and times of her great great grand mother that includes the truth behind her not inventing it. In fact, it
Ol Reliable a.k.a Kentucky Maid Straightening Comb
was just a few days before Christmas. It was on December 21st, to be exact, that the United States Patent Office awarded Walter Sammons, an African American inventor his patent. And the rest they say is history. In the trained and skilled hands of a licensed beautician this is the "ol reliable" of hair styling that is safe for the scalp and hair. If you have not be taught the family tradition of pressing or straightening hair; then do not attempt to teach yourself or practice on anyone. In the hands of an untrained person, practicing on real people can lead to more than burnt tresses. So, be sure to have someone teach how to properly use it first.


If the good ol' fashioned straightening comb is one of my favorites, you can only imagine the next hair styling tool I like. You guessed it, the Cast Iron Marcel Iron. If you are a new to the career of hair styling, this styling tool may seem to like an ancient artifact. Though it is not as old as a dinosaur, it will remain in the beauty industry until it gets as old as a dinosaur. If one is blessed to learn the "intricate finger twirling heat observing, determining when to actually curl the hair with it" art; they will have a career in hair styling until they retire. Why you ask? The electric curling irons and flat irons always stay at the desire temperature. They never cool down. Well, the Cast Iron Marcel Iron does. Once the desired temperature is achieved to curl the hair, it immediately begins to cool down as the hair is curled. And all hair stylists know that cooler curls lasts longer.
Ol Reliable Jr. a.k.a Cast Iron Curling Iron
Electric styling tools are always hot. When a someone has fragile hair, electric styling tools are not a wise choice. Instead, cast iron combs and curling irons that can be heated in a oven apparatus where a skilled hair stylist can determine how hot the utensil should be throughout styling the entire head are the best option. Using these tools accordingly will result in safe heat hair styling. This tool is best for the discriminating skilled and caring hair stylist. 

The expensive flat iron that works wonders.
Back to the future, the Flat Irons. Flat irons, flat irons and more flat irons. Flat Irons are like smart phones. Both are multi-faceted and can be very expensive. As multi-faceted as smart phones are, for some odd reason, people opt to use them for one common thing and will pay a lot of money for one. At the end of the of the day, rather it is an iPhone or a Droid, both are smart phones. Though they both have different operating systems, both can still make phone calls, allow you to go online and take photos to name a few. The same can be said about Flat Irons, at the end of the day the expensive flat irons and the inexpensive flat irons are still, flat irons. Though they have different heating mechanisms on the inside and different names on the outside; both will still straighten hair, curl hair and shut off if they are left on too long even though people will simply opt to just smooth out their hair. My best advice for this favorite thing is to shop within your budget. If you are $30.00 shopper; go for it. If you are a $180.00, go for it. To keep you from going over board, just look at your phone!
The LESS expensive flat irons that works wonders. 

When the snow drizz makes your hair frizz; it will make you feel so sad. I want you to re-read my blog on My Favorite Things and then you won't feel, soooooooooooo bad (yass, in your Diana Ross voice)!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!








Sunday, December 21, 2014

The Transition Mission


 Believe it or not, I am not one of those cosmetologists who promotes salon visits. Yeah, I know! As a matter of fact, the main reason I opened a salon was to teach every person who walks in about the hair on their head, how to care for and how to style it. Really, you say? Really!
Afro

Some time ago "relaxer," "creamy-crack," "chemically altered hair" and all that jive started to become the fearing buzz words in the salon world of hair care like the Ebola virus scare came to CDC in the world of viruses. As a cosmetologist with a degree in social science, this craze really caught my attention. Soon, I found myself becoming to hair care what Michael Moore became to the government, the food industry, globalization, assault weapons and the American health care systems; a whistle blower.

Regrowth

While I do not possess the talent to write and produce documentaries; I do have the talent to write. Just as the attack on the Twin Towers in New York, the killings of innocent teens while at school in Columbine and the ignorance to the over consumption of fast foods irritated Mr. Moore to the point of investing his time, energy and money into exposing those wrong doers for what they were worth; the same for me in hair care. 
Flat ironed tresses to the left....

Nothing irritates me more in hair care than licensed hair stylists and hair care companies claiming they can make hair healthy. When they know it is the blood supply fueled by genetics, diet, exercise and bowel movements that does. Another irritant for me is now how all of a sudden relaxers are bad for your health and your hair. I still remain perplexed how the chemists, marketing execs and the companies themselves have allowed the same licensed professionals who educated for them, sold for them, used for them, promoted for them, applied their chemical relaxers to millions of women world wide and encouraged them to charge those millions of consumers worldwide for having their hair chemically altered. I am surprised how they have not backed up their claim that has always been stamped on every tub, printed on every direction in almost every language and taught by almost every instructor; DISCONTINUE USE if allergic reactions occur. To the credit of most companies; they have never claimed that their chemical relaxers were for everyone. The ownest has been and will always be on the person applying the chemical to be trained and follow the manufacturers instructions. 

So here I am today writing a blog about another thing that irks me, the transition scare! Good lawd, some of these hair stylists and hair care companies have lost their minds encouraging those who do not like or have had a reaction to the chemical to cut it all off. I am all for the option to cut it off for whatever reason, if that is your choice. But, when one enters the salon with over processed tresses; to be honest, cutting it off is the best option for the severely damaged hair. Anything less is hype.


Victoria's secret ain't so secret no more.
"TBH," as my colleague Malika Jones always says, when you break down the most common ingredient found in chemical relaxers: sodium hydroxide. The sodium hydroxide is nothing but salt, water and oxygen fluffed up with petroleum, conditioners, synthetic proteins and all that jive which all DRIES out hair to RELAX the texture (curly, kinky, wavy and Afro). It is the HEAT from the hot water, blow dryer, hooded dryer, curling iron or flat iron that STRAIGHTENS the hair. The relaxer never claimed to straighten the texture. The relaxer claimed to RELAX the texture. The side affects those drying chemicals are often excessive drying or irritation to the scalp, neck or/and forehead. Allergic reactions such as swelling, redness, bumps or burning (to those with sensitive skin) has always been explained either on the bottle, in the instructions or in training to licensed hair stylists. Just medicine or any other thing that is ingested or apply topically to your skin can irritate it; so can the relaxer. And for the record anything that is applied topically to your skin, NOT JUST THE RELAXER enters into your blood stream, going directly to your liver and kidneys which will filter out most toxins from the stuff we put on our skin. So if you think creamy crack is just gawd awful, then toss out all that Victoria's Secret,  Bath and Body Works, Flower Bomb perfume, MAC make up and more. I mean most people put that stuff on twice a day every day and more. Some even wash up in it. Do you do that with a relaxer?
The world's best protein
Voila!
So versus being scared to grow out your relaxer, be open to the options of what it takes to do so. If it is your personal desire to cut it off; then do so because that is what you want to do; not because someone told you to do so because relaxers are toxic. 

The easiest and most affordable way to grow out your relaxer is to incorporate a protein treatment into your hair care regiment that protects the outer layer (cuticle) and second layer (cortex) of your hair. If the protein you are using reads that it is only for the outer (cuticle) layer; you may not be impressed with the results and unwanted breakage may continue to happen. If you use a protein that reads that it can penetrate to the second layer (cortex), BINGO you are in luck! The cortex is where the actual strength of the hair is. So using a protein of that nature will increase the likelihood of strengthening the entire strand of hair (regrowth, mid-shaft and ends) which will decrease the likelihood of your hair breaking off at the demarcation line (where the regrowth and relaxed hair meets).

In conclusion, if you add that simple product to your hair care regimen...the transition will be successful. As for what is toxic and can kill you? That is another blog!

Sunday, November 16, 2014

You Could Pay More. But Why?

"It's the most wonderful time of the year," sings Andy Williams as well as every major and minor retailer during this time of the year. The holiday seasons, for most, translates into spending. For others, it translates into making; money that is. Whatever side of the spectrum you are on, getting and giving the best bang for your buck is the name of the game. 


Do you really think these products are "knock offs?"
Did someone say game? As a licensed professional working in the beauty industry for a little over decade, I can tell you that many who work in the industry often throw the word "game" around for the ball it truly is. But for the consumer who spends money in our industry, buying hair care products and styling tools are no game. Now more than ever are knock offs, bootleg and imitation everything more prevalent. Some time ago, the most popular knock off, bootleg and imitations goods could mainly be found in purses, jewelry, watches and movies. Fast forward to today and everything is knock off, bootleg or an imitation. You have knock off Beats by Dre', bootleg apple pie moonshine and imitation flat irons!


Paul Mitchell, Hairdresser, Co-Founder
Paul Mitchell
Hair Care Products
Yes. The beauty industry has its share of run ins with knock offs, bootleg,  imitated hair care products and styling tools. To sound very fancy, some have favored the verb, "diverted." In my opinion, diverted in the area of hair care is a PROCESS when a major hair care company starts off vowing their product can only be bought and sold in a hair salon by licensed professional cosmetologists or representatives of the hair salon; whose (meaning, the hair care company) hair care products or/and styling tool somehow mysteriously ends up being sold in a department store, grocery store, close out store, pharmacy or local beauty supply store. 

Now how could this be you, the consumer ask? Exactly what is so different about the Paul Mitchell, Joico, Redken, Keratin, Biolage, Matrix, Chi flat irons, Baybliss flat irons products and tools that are sold in the department store, grocery store, close out store, pharmacy or local beauty salon from what is being sold in the salon? Nothing.
John Paul Dejoria, Product Sales Rep, Co-Owner,
Paul Mitchell Hair Care Products and
Patron Tequila


I doubt the owners of Giant Eagle, Piggly Wiggly, CVS, Rite Aid, TJ Maxx, Marshall's, Big Lots and ABC 123 local beauty supply store are willing to catch a case for copyright infringement (a.k.a knock off, bootleg and imitation) just so we can use our discount card to get 10% off. I have even heard that these stores do not know that they are buying counterfeit products. I also heard that they are deliberately purchasing these fake hair care products to deliberately attract consumers who buy hair care products to their stores. Now, I don't know about you, but I am not going to the grocery store, TJ Maxx or Big Lots to buy salon quality hair care products and hair styling tools. IJS

When it comes to ingredients or technology in products or styling tools, words like: natural, nano, organic, ions, tourmaline, ceramic, titanium, jade, diamond and the likes, you should know; "you could pay more; but why?"


For a mere $17, 575.00 you could own a Lussorian Flat Iron
What is the difference between $300.00 keratin treatment product used in hair salon to perform the service in a hair salon and the $35.00 Keratin sold at Sally's for you to do yourself at home? What is the difference between the  $150.00 up to 450 degrees ceramic, ionic, tourmaline and titanium diamond encrusted flat iron compared to the Remington up 450 degrees ceramic, ionic, tourmaline and titanium cubic zerconia encrusted flat iron sold at Target? You got it, the price! While one could argue education, location, skill, certified and so on; keep in mind we are talking about the ingredients.

For the record, there is no such thing as generic keratin. Keratin IS hair. Keratin is a protein. Hair is keratin. Hair is a protein. Tourmaline is mineral from the earth; planet earth. There is NO such thing as generic keratin and generic tourmaline. Now when we add our fancy names, pay a few celebrities and their paid celebrity hairstylists who are made to look and sound really fancy by highly trained, skilled and educated marketing, promotion and graphic design people....voila! You now have "high end" keratin treatments and flat irons. 

Understand, that in a America and around the world, money negates the value and quality of things. Also, understand that money negates how foolish we can be at times. Do not be duped by knock offs, bootleg or imitated anything. Likewise, don't believe the hype of "exclusive" fancy hair care products and styling tools endorsed by folk who truly have the money to pay for the hype of high end keratin that is already hair or high end tourmaline; knowing that it is a precious stone from the earth.

For us common folk, turn the bottle around and read what is in it. Purchase from companies who have vested time, money and give back to it's consumers, like Remington. And if you insist on trying what is new in the industry keep in mind that $275.00 iPhone or Galaxy note you purchased just two years ago. Remember when you purchased it, the technology was already out. "Hmm, ye say?"
For a mere $35.00, you can go to Target'
and purchase these!


You could pay more; but why? Please don't say, "QUALITY!"

"It's the most wonderful time of the year. With the kids jingle belling!
And everyone's telling you, "Be of good cheer!"
It's the most wonderful time of the year"

Sunday, June 8, 2014

Going Way Back!

Going way back to the early days of 75...
I have been blessed to live long enough to hear my share of "back in the day," "old school," "throwback," and "going way back." As much as I love hip hop, us hip hop heads know that know one speaks of "back in the day" no more than a rapper. "Skiiiiiiiirch," that is unless you are a hair stylist. OMG, I can not tell you how many people (rather I am doing a hair and scalp analysis or not) tell me how many stories of how their hair was, "way back when." 

Whenever I am doing a consultation or meet someone and disclose that I am a hair stylist, I always here the intro of "Goin Way Back" by one of my favorite old school hip hop artist, Just Ice! "Let me tell you about 75..." So many women take me back to 1975, 1965, 85, 95 and 2005 about the glory days of when they had beautiful hair. I have heard countless, "My hair was beautiful until my mom put the relaxer in it," stories. "My hair was beautiful until my grandma pressed my hair so hard it fell out," stories. "My hair was beautiful before my cousin bleached or colored it," stories.  Well my darling "going way back to the time I had beautiful hair" blog readers, I have some good news and I have some bad news. Before I reveal the two, I have to include my exception to the rule sentence. My exception to the rule sentence is, in the extreme cases of medical illness, genetic disorders and severe scalp damage (i.e. burns, accidents, trauma to the scalp and the likes) the hair may never grow or return to its beautiful luster prior to. So provided that you have none of the aforementioned extreme cases, you can move forward to today and tomorrow in your goal to have beautiful hair NOW! Back to the good news, bad good news information.

Let's start with the bad news. The bad news is, it is close to impossible to restore your hair back to the hair you had in 1965, 75, 85, 95 or 2005 (you get where I am going with this) when you were younger. Regardless if you believe the relaxer, hair color, bad braid job, scarf or anything in between was the culprit. 

Now the good news is, believe it or not, every 7 years you get an entire new head of hair. So what ever and who ever happened to your hair way back when does not matter because every 7 years, you will have an entirely new head of hair. How bout dem apples! Now in that process of getting a new head of hair every 7 years, you do not get the same hair you had when you were younger because as we age and the new hair grows in every 7 years, for many that new hair gets thinner, and thinner and thinner. But, it is new, nontheless. 

Wait just a cotton pickin' minute before you click onto a new link in search of. Let me explain. I understand your skepticism. I will explain how this is so. According to one of my favorite and one of the most respected leaders in trichology, Trichologist Philip Kingsley from London who develops his exclusive hair care line and hair care practice from the 3 phases of hair growth science. Now about this "going way back." his website reports that it is the growth cycle of the hair is that is directly responsible for giving us a new head of hair every seven years. The name of this natural phenomenon is, "The Hair Growth Cycle." The hair growth cycle has 3 phases. The 3 phases has a acronym that I personally call it, "The ACT." The ACT goes as follows:

ACT Stages of hair growth.
The first scene or phase is the ANAGEN. The anagen phase is also known as the growing phase. About 80 to 90 percent of your hair strands are in this phase of growing. Please keep in mind that human follicles (the little hole that your hair strand is growing out of) are not like animals. So all of your hair strands DO NOT grow at the same time. That explains why some strands are longer and shorter than the others. Also the during this phase the hair will grow about 1/4th an inch per month rather you take hair growing vitamins, shampoo it with fancy products, massage it or not (lol).

The second scene or phase is the CATAGEN. The catagen phase is also known as the transitional phase. This phase lasts about 2-4 weeks. So, about 2-3% of your hair strands are in transit to taking a lil break from growing, making the natural color in your hair and is beginning to rest to make way for new hair to grow in.

The third and final scene or phase is the TELOGEN. The telogen phase is the resting phase. This phase lasts about 2-4 weeks and about 3-4% of your hair strands are in this phase. During this phase the hair is still not producing any of it's natural color and it is being pushed away from the scalp (you call it shedding) so that new hair strands can grow in. Now you see why hair stylists always say you will see some hair shed.  I always tell my clients how hair shedding is natural and normal. When you see that little tiny white bulb attached to the strand of hair, do not panic, bingo; new hair is coming in!

So there you have it. No more, going way back to the early days of 75 (in my Just Ice voice)! It is most certainly all good. There could be a point in this scenario where too much hair could be coming out. If you seriously think that the hair your are seeing come out is too much, then schedule consultation with me, Philip Kingsley or a trained and concerned cosmetologist to learn more about what options you may have.

Philip Kingsley, world renowned Trichlogist
I'd like to send shout out to my trichologist homie Philip Kingsley, peace (in my Just Ice voice)!

Here is the link to his website: 

http://www.philipkingsley.com/hair-guide/hair-science/hair-growth-cycle/

 Enjoy and tell him, Ladosha sent ya.