Up In Smoke

As a writer, I'm really liking this blogging thing. I find it pretty cool. It is like writing an essay and the readers are your teachers. Readers give you feedback. Good, bad or indifferent; many have much to say about what you write and of course, how you write. Nothing beats the feedback from my grammar Nazis who informs me when I have a grammar faux pas. 

one day.....

So while blogging connects me with many wonderful inquiring readers from near and far via the internet, believe it or not it also connects me with some in real life! Nothing makes anybody feel more cool than being spotted or questioned as to who they are like, "you famous" or something. It rarely happens to me. But 'er now and then, I will be out in the public and someone will say, "Hey aren't you..." And I gets to blushing, smiling, hand gesturing and all that jive. Well, a few weeks ago, it happened again. I was in the store and this woman was looking over in my direction. I don't know about you, but I can feel when someone is staring at me. So, I looked in her directions a few times. Before I knew it, she was tapping me. She said, "I know you don't know me, but I follow you on all of your social media and I think you are pretty cool. I like what you are doing helping us common folk with our hair." I smiled and said, "Alrighty there! I appreciate you." Then she went into the famous, "I hate to bother you while you are shopping, but..." 

You know me, I am the queen of loquaciousness. Did someone say talk? If you think I can write. You should here me talk. Girlaaaaaah! "Shoot," I replied. She went on to explain her discontent with her hair stylist. She was frustrated that her hair styles were not lasting. She felt her hair was limp and dull. She also asked me touch her hair because it felt like it was coated with something. So, what's a wanna be celebrity blogger turned Children's book author to do? Oblige her. 

After I did my "in store in between the clearance section at TJ Maxx (yes, I'm a a Maxanista) consultation," I responded, "Do you smoke?" She bashfully replied, "Well yes, but I am trying to stop."

Ok, let's pause for the cause. This blog is not in any fashion an attempt to put down smokers of any kind. If you want to smoke or like smoking what ever it is that you smoke, it is most certainly your prerogative. But. I know there is always a but. But understand, that I am aware that smoking soothes, calms, relieves, helps, replaces, in lieu of and so on for many. Just understand that aside from the obvious physical and mental side affects smoking has on the body and person, let's go there about what it does to hair and skin. 

As much as I want to drag this blog out with facts, data and research, I ain't. I'm gonna cut through that ( as much as I don't want to) and shoot straight from the hip. Stop. Stop smoking. Smoking is so awful on hair. All smokers are aware of the film smoke leaves on any surface. They are also aware of stench it leaves in your clothes, hair and breath. Right? They also know that no amount of perfume, deodorizer, or air cleaner will remove the odor of smoking. Ok, so I'll type it again. Stop. Stop smoking because the film that it leaves on your hair is not easily removed with shampoo. Shampoos are primarily formulated to remove oil, dirt, a small degree of hair product build up, flakes and slight odors. As for films, heavily coated hair, excessively flaking hair, pasty scalps, scaly scalps, they will never work. They will clean the obvious, but that is about it. 

If you insist.

In the case of this young lady concerns about her hair, the film left behind on her hair from smoking is the culprit to all what she did not like about her hair. She hated the reality that her hair did not shine, it was dull, limp, thinning, lacked volume, would not hold a style and it felt funny. Her expression, did not change much when I asked if she smoked. I am of the understanding she is aware of the impact smoking has on her hair. I am certain she was not of the understanding that it is NOT her hair stylist fault. 

Hair stylists are not magicians. We can only work with the hair fabric you enter the salon with. If the hair fabric is good, you will have a good hair style. If the fabric is compromised...well. Compromised, damaged unhealthy, fragile, over processed, under processed and unkempt hair fabrics takes just as much time as it does money to repair. Understand, the time and money is NOT spent in the salon. No hunty. That time and money will be spent at home. Hair styles and treatments are for the moment. After the moment, it's all back on you. You know kinda like talking to the nutritionist about weight concerns. They can give you great meal planning ideas and recipes. Tell you what stores to shop at and where to buy those cute lil' containers. They can even tell you how and what to cook it on. But after that, it's on you. 

Hair care and hair styling starts at home with what you put or what you do not put into your body. Give your hair the life you want it to have so it can look and feel the way you want it to look. You know? Just like your body. 

As much as I knew she was looking for the magic answer with the magic hair care product and the very magical hair stylist who could fix it like Jesus. I also knew that she intuitively knew that like Jesus, only she could sincerely fix it. 

Ok now...

Your hair is an extension of you in ever facet. Socially, emotionally, financially, culturally, spiritually and physically; your hair reflects all of that. Do not dupe yourself, do not remove yourself from you. Your hair is truly as alive as you are. And while we can do many things to enhance or change what we like or dislike about our hair, ultimately the ownness is on you. Of all the things you can do to enhance or change about your hair; do it. But whatever you do, don't blow it up in smoke. 

Remember the surgeon general and yo momma been warning you about that smoking for quite some time. Go ahead make your day and give #stopsmoking a try. It won't kill you. It will make your hair look nice though!

Training Day

Last week,  I was riding with my cousin who was telling me about the rigors of training her dog. She told me that she had to solicit the help of a dog trainer. In addition, she was telling me how smart the dog had become as he has figured out that the treats are the secret to his training; so to the point that he now brings her the treat so she can give him a command!

Now if, only hair would train as easy as dogs. The other day I was in the salon servicing a new customer. I asked her what goals did she have for her hair. She responded that she wanted it grow longer, be healthy and to "train" it. Huh, train hair? I have not heard that phrase since 1977. I was not aware that people were still under the notion that hair could be trained. So, I told my new customer that her goal to train her hair would make for a great blog topic!

First things first, hair can not be trained. Yeah, I know. Another myth debunked. I am not quite sure how these things are coming to fruition into the minds of many as it relates to hair care and hair styling, but plenty of misinformation is spreading fast. She went onto to tell me that she was under the belief that hair could be trained via:

• Brushing hair in the desired direction
• Combing hair in the desired direction
• Flat Ironing
• Rolling 
• Wrapping 

In this kipufi (brief) blog, I will briefly explain why the above-mentioned techniques can not train hair. Drum roll, please. 

Brushing hair will not train hair. However, brushing hair will tame hair. Brushing hair has many benefits; again, training is not one of them. Brush hair promotes hair growth by way of stimulating the scalp to increase blood flow. Blood flow and the oxygen in it are what nourishes hair. Nourished hair is strong. Brushing hair will save you plenty of money on buying hair care products that claim to strengthen hair and make it shine. Most hair care products work on hair externally. It is the internal workings of hair care by way of nutrition that makes hair truly strong and shiny. So brushing hair does that. Brushing hair promotes growth, shine and smoothness.

Combing hair in any direction will not train hair. Combing hair is about two things. First and foremost, combing hair is another way to clean hair.  Second, combing hair will groom and style it. When hair is combed properly, the benefits are exfoliating, de-thatching, detangling and redistribution. What does that mean? 

When hair is combed properly with the right comb, the teeth of the comb will exfoliate and slough off dead and dry skin cells from the scalp.  As the comb loosens the fibrin (flakes) and debris from the scalp, it makes washing hair more effective. Though de-thatching is most commonly associated with lawn care. The concept of using a rake to remove the build of grass and organic matter by way of de-thatching; is synonymous to using a comb to remove flakes and hair that has shed. The concept of removing a build up of stuff with a rake-like tool is the same. Combing hair detangles it. If longer hair is the goal, detangling is the secret to getting there. Tangled hair prevents natural and added oils from getting to the ends of hair. When longer hair is desired, it is the ends of the hair that are directly responsible for the length. Detangling hair is

Combing your hair

 essential to hair being manageable, tangle free and minimizes the breakage on the ends. When hair is combed properly with the right comb, long, strong healthy hair is often the result, not trained hair. Lastly, when hair is combed frequently, you will have the opportunity to redistribute the oils throughout your hair from your regrowth at the scalp to the ends. When hair is only combed once per day, the more snapping and breaking of hair fibers you will see in your sink, on the floor, and in your comb. If you have any degree of texture in your hair, the longer you go without combing your hair, you will see and physically feel your hair reverting back in the scalp area. When hair reverts back as a result of not combing it. And then you add in sweating, scratching, the wind blowing and the likes, hair will become matted and difficult to comb. When hair is difficult to comb, the length of the hair is compromised from the tug of trying to detangle it. No more tears. So comb your hair frequently to redistribute oils, promote the health and achieve length on your hair.

But, by no power vested in your arm and hand will you be able to train your hair with a comb.

Flat ironing  is safe.

Flat ironing hair will not result in trained hair. Frequent flat ironing on any temperature will eventually break the bonds that are responsible for the curl, wave, kink or Afro texture within the hair strands. The result is overprocessed hair that results in loss of hair texture or pattern. While your hair will not be trained from flat ironing it frequently, it can be damaged. Hair is an excellent conductor of heat. So, to permanently break the bonds that give hair textured and patterns will take plenty of heat and aggressive hair styling. Be careful when using heat. Use heat responsibly with a thermal protectant with the right amount of heat and your hair will be fine for a very long time.

Rolling hair will not result in trained hair. Rolling hair will result in curled hair. Aside from protection, adornment is considered to be the chief purpose of hair. Rather long, short or bald; hair is all about adorning oneself. Adorning for most humans and other animals for that matter is innate. For whatever reason, looking good is just as important as breathing. So, rolling hair is all about the hair style. If the hair is rolled the same way; then the varying styles associated with that rolled pattern will yield the desired look. However, by no stretch of the imagination is hair trained when it is rolled.

Wrapping hair will not train hair.  Wrapping  hair in a circular pattern around the hair is identical to rolling hair. The exception here is your head. When you wrap your hair, your head is the "roller!" Surprising, isn't it? So, when you wrap something long in a circular pattern, the result is almost always smooth and straight with a slight curvature. When wrapped properly, the result is less work to restyling your hair. However, trained hair will not be the result. 

As you can see the misnomer of trained hair is not possible in the world of hair styling. Hair grows every day all day for 6-7 years straight, non-stop. So how can something that is always growing be trained? It can be tamed, compromised and altered; but never trained.

Hair styling is a part of hair care. Have fun with your hair as you take care of it. If something sounds too good to be true, it typically is. So while training your dog to sit and giving him or her treats for behaving; hair might behave, but it can not be trained. Hair is rarely that cooperative, no matter how expensive or unique the treat is!

Now sit Uboo. Good dog.

Shedding Hair

Request or nah!

Working behind the chair as a cosmetologist can be similar to working as a DJ behind the turntables. Like DJ's cosmetologists get many requests. And like DJ's we like to fulfill what people are asking. In addition, like DJ's we also get a lil tired of getting requests for the same thing. 

Of all the things I tire of getting requests for, it would be the request to alleviate shedding hair. Shedding and hair breakage is like a classic song that you will have to put up with pretty much for the rest of your life. Currently, I am heavily involved doing research on follicle care. The research is so very interesting and full of splendor! The research is, of course, helping me in my day to day operations as a hair stylist. Recently, The Physiological Reviews Journal reports that “the most important theme in studying the cycling hair follicle is that the follicle is a regenerating system.”

With the scientific fact that the follicle is an organ that has a natural cycle to regenerate itself; like that Fifty Cent song "In Da Club," you are gonna see hair shed and break over and over again just like that song. It is a natural process of the regenerative life cycle of the every hair fiber on your hair. However, when it comes to hair shedding and breaking; one should not see excessive amounts of hair in the comb, in the sink, tub, floor or shower. 

Hair breakage

In order to get a grasp on hair shedding, hair breaking I will expound upon other culprits such as hair thinning and balding/hair loss fall under hair shedding and breakages.

Hair shedding is part of that "regenerating system" I learned about during my research. Your hair lives inside of an organ called a follicle (the tiny whole your hair fibers grow from). Your hair is formed, nourished and grows from a tiny bulb called a papilla. Before your hair becomes the strands you see growing from your scalp it goes through 3 phases. The first phase is the anagen phase which is the actual growing phase. It lasts up to 6-7 years. So that other request of what can I use to make my hair grow? Stop asking. And by all means, please stop buying products that make hair grow. It grows for free. The second phase is the Catagen phase. It is the resting phase that lasts about 2-3 weeks. During this phase, the hair is literally resting and the body is not making any hair. And the last phase is Telogen. This phase lasts 3 months. This is where the hair actually sheds. You will be able to differentiate between a strand of hair that has shed and a strand of hair that has broken. Hair strands that have shed will have little tiny white bulb attached to the strands of hair. On an average, you will see a lil over one hundred strands per day. That would look like about a teaspoon size amount depending on your length. 

Hair shedding

Most people do not understand that all hair fibers do not shed at the same time. Each strand of hair grows from its own follicle (organ). Therefore, they do not all grow and shed at the same rate. It is fair to conclude that at the end of a 7 year, or so cycle, you will have a new head of hair. So, do not panic at the constant shedding; for it is a reflection of new hair that will be growing in. You can woo sah now!

Using too much of anything compromises hair.

Next up is "breaking and snapping hair." The difference between shedding hair and breakage is the bulb. Remember, shedding hair will have the lil tiny white bulb attached. Breakage will not. Breakage is normal as well. Especially if you manipulate your hair frequently. Examples of hair manipulation are combing, braiding, heat styling, sew in's, chemical services, friction from wearing scarves, hats, brushing and the likes. Doing these things aggressively or using the wrong comb/brush are the number two culprit to hair breaking and snapping. In addition, leaving conditioners and super softening agents on your hair too long will cause hair to snap and break. Coconut oil, conditioners, synthetic oils, pomades, silicones mineral oils and petroleum are examples of super softening agents that folk apply when manipulating their hair. Unfortunately, they are typically the culprits to excessive snapping and breakage. Another cause to unwanted hair breakage and shedding are sulfates and sulfate free ingredients that act like sulfates on the hair. Sulfates and sulfate free ingredients are chemicals that most manufacturers use to clean hair. While they are cheap, universal and common in almost every kind of shampoo your money can spend, the side affects are often hair breakage and shedding. They actually speed up the telogen phase of the hair growth process. So buyer beware. Don't be duped by all this fancy sulfate free, natural and unfortunately certain organic ingredients that act like sulfates on your hair. 

Hair thinning is the natural process for all humans as we age. What happens is the follicle (the tiny hole that the hair is growing from) actually shrinks and gets smaller; thus producing hair that is thin, fine, limp, weak and very susceptible to breaking. While aging is a given for all, there is nothing we can do to stop it. However, we can slow it down. The best way to slow down thinning hair is to reduce the heavy products used to care for and style your hair. Use fewer styling products. On an average, you only need a maximum of 3 styling products to produce a beautiful long lasting hair style. If you swear that you need more, then you are most definitely using the wrong shampoos. But that is another blog. Thinning hair can also be hereditary. Therefore, be mindful of what you use and pay attention to your comb and brush when styling your hair to make sure that you are not physically snatching your hair out. Infrequent shampooing will certainly promote thinning hair because you are not getting the blood supply to feed the hair bulb the nourishment that is needed for your hair to grow. So if your are shampooing your every 8 days and beyond; eventually your hair will thin out, grow in weak, snap or break off and you will not see your desired length or density. Heavy products clog the follicle and leave no room for the hair to grow from. Do not apply conditioners or other heavy or thick styling agents to your scalp. Never. Doing so will promote thinning. These products are not formulated to apply directly to your scalp. Doing so typically results in scalp irritation which can promote hair thinning and breakage as well. Dring plenty of water, eat a sound diet, boo-boo and get some rest to promote hair that grows and will be strong as well. Using products that are rich in wheat proteins, keratin, essential oils and herbs are sure to be a winner in seeing noticeable long lasting results for those with issues of breaking, balding, hair loss and thinning hair. 

Infrequent shampooing is sure to promote thinning.

Lastly, is balding and hair loss. Both conditions have a few culprits. For many scalp disorders fueled by compromised immune systems can result in things like varying forms of alopecia, which results in hair loss. Alopecia happens when the communication between cells and hormones become very confused by a compromised immune system that actually sends the wrong message to attack the hair's ability to actually grow. For some this can happen in certain areas on the scalp, for others it is all over the scalp and for some it is every hair on their entire body (eyebrows, eyelashes, armpits and so on). This condition of hair loss is best supervised by a doctor or licensed holistic practitioner. Another culprit to baldness and hair loss is the Demodex mite. I know, "ewe!" Yes, sirree bob. The Demodex mite is a very tiny microorganism that actually eats away at the hair inside the follicle and the hormone DHT (dehydrolyzed testosterone) helps feed the mite as well. While there are many salon quality products claiming to get rid of this bug, research says it is virtually impossible considering it is in your blood system. Therefore, medication, essential oils, and herbs are the only sources that can effectively enter your blood stream and kill off those mites. Wearing hats, scarves and doo-rags help promote the loss of hair through the friction of wearing them. When this mite eats away at hair, your hair is actually growing in thinner; thus making it very weak and fragile. Hats, scarves, and doo rags rub away at the hair and hair loss happens that much faster. 

As you can see hearing the same old request to get answers to why hair sheds can be extensive, The request can get a little boring like getting those same song requests. And much like hearing the same old song, seeing hair in the sink, on the floor, on your clothes and so on is the norm. It is the excessive amount that should concern you. To recap, the likely culprits to excessive shedding are infrequent shampooing, washing hair too much, dehydration, scalp disorders, bacteria and using heavy products. If you listen to your hair and scalp like you listen to your music, you will respond to the request to care for it properly and differently. I guarantee that if you do so, it will be like music to your ears. And we all know what that sounds and feels like!