The Best Hair Moisturizer

Hands down, the number one complaint about hair is that it is too dry. All day every day, everywhere; someone is complaining about dry hair. In addition to complaining about dry hair, people also complain about the difficulty of finding the right product to remedy their dry tresses. They are in constant search for the perfect moisturizer. Oh, but the search becomes a tad bit tricky if one person's hair texture is different from the other. For example, those who have straight hair, are looking for something that will make their hair feel silky, more smooth, shine more and less likely to revert or frizz.  For those who have curly or Afro textures, they are looking for a moisturizer that will make their texture spring, coil, curl, wave while at the same time giving it some slip and actual moistness. Both hair types loathe the dry, frizzy, dull, and brittle feel to their textured hair. 

Well, guess what? The solution to dry hair, rather it is straight or textured, is NOT a topical moisturizer or moisturizing treatment of any sort! I know, sayings like, "Stawpitt Judy!" or "Whatchu talkin bout Willis,"  comes to mind, right? Yes, my wonderful hair junkies, knotty know it alls, natural knowers, textured Titans, and organic only's, moisturizers in the world of hair care ain't what they are pretending to be. Most products that claim to moisturize hair, do not. They simply coat the hair; thus making it literally dry.

But, why? How can that be? Read on before you click that mouse and search for more answers. You know the name of my blog is, "What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon," right? So let me tell you what they are not telling you at the hair salon. After you read this blog, you will have a clear understanding of what to do about your hair that you have been lead to believe is dry and is in need of moisture.  

Holy, smokes and gee whiz!

First, what they don't tell you at the hair salon about moisture and hair is that moisture for hair is an internal process. Properly moisturized hair only begins with a well-hydrated body. Before you purchase another bottle of moisturizing anything, I urge you to pick up a bottle of water or pour you a few cups and drink up. If you hate water, then your hair will truly be dry and no fancy moisturizer will help. 

Second, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that each fiber of hair consists of several outer layers that comprise of what we see (hair on our heads) with the naked eye called keratin. Another term for keratin is cuticle layer.  If you were to look at each strand of hair fibers under a microscope, those fibers would resemble fish scales or shingles on a roof. The objective to hair feeling, being manageable and looking a certain way is in direct association with that very tiny microscopic keratin or those cuticle layers. Also, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that those tiny scales or shingles must always lay flat in order for your hair (regardless the texture or

hairstyle) to feel and look nice. So, when you touch your hair and it feels brittle, gritty and frizzy, what you are actually feeling are those tiny microscopic scales that are raised. Because you are not aware that those keratin or cuticle layers are actually raised, your mind associates the feel of your hair with dryness. That is why the objective in hair care is to keep that tiny microscopic keratin or cuticle layers flat, not moist. If those layers are raised in any form, the result is hair that feels rough, gritty and brittle. Your hair will also tangle, mat and knot easily. From there, your hair will begin to snap and break. Then when you look at your shirt or in the sink or on the floor; all you will see are frayed fibers lying about. The next thing you know, you are running to the salon or beauty supply store in search of a moisturizer to stop what you think is dry hair from falling out. On the other hand, if you use products that actually 
coat and keep the hair physically damp, more breakage, musty smelling, and snapping is the result.

Third, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that 90% of all hair care products primary ingredient is water. When water comes into contact with hair, the result is buckled, swollen cracked, gritty, brittle and rough feeling hair. Just as water damages wood, fabrics, metals or skin; it does the same to hair. Initially, when anything is immersed in water it looks and feels great. Take a moment and think about how sexy you and your hair looks when wet. Place your clothes in water; notice the colors look so rich and moist. Now place your favorite flatware in water; it too looks amazingly more vibrant in color and shiny in appearance. Now step out the water or remove those items from the water. Next, allow them to air dry. How does your skin feel? How do your hair, face, and feet feel? What about your flatware? How do they look? Now touch them. Feel free to apply oil or some sort of shining finisher in the water or on your items. Hours later, touch your body, hair, face, feet, and items again. How do they feel? Still a somewhat rough, gritty and brittle, huh? 
Feel me? Yeah, buddy, that's how they getcha.

What they are not telling you at the hair salon is that you have been trained and taught to verbally express raised keratin or cuticle layers as dry hair. And since they really want more money, they have also trained you to believe that now your hair is damaged. Damaged hair, dry hair, brittle hair, color faded hair, dry relaxed hair, dull breaking locks, frizzy cornrow braids, tangled nappy hair, dry limp hair are all synonymous raised keratin or cuticle layers. 

Now for the kicker. And just as those words are synonymous with keratin and cuticle layers, so is protein! Shocking isn't it? Say it ain't so, you declare?

Don't believe me? Click on another link and read for yourself. 

Welcome back. Quite interesting isn't it? Keratin, cuticle layers, and protein all mean the same thing. Damn semantics. Semantics are the things I do not like about the "American English" language. They play too much with them words...LOL 

You are getting sleepy...

What you have been deliberately misled to believe is dry, tangled, knotty, nappy, frizzy, dull, weak and damaged hair is actually raised keratin, cuticle or protein layers. So what raises them? Aside from water; combing, brushing, braiding, twisting, heat, locking, relaxing, coloring, and wearing fabrics on your hair that absorbs moisture like cotton, and the likes are all that contributes to raised keratin, cuticle or protein layers. Basically, whenever we do any form of grooming our hair in any hair style we can think of, we compromise those layers by raising them. From washing it to weaving it; those layers will inevitably raise.

So why are hairstylists calling it dry hair? Why are they suggesting moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, treatments and styling agents? Ignorance and money. Ahh, but you knew I was gonna type that. See, most hair stylists are simply not trained enough to understand hair. The varying hair textures and types require different types of cleansing and conditioning agents. Not all hair types require a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Hair care products are formulated for hair types and textures. Some textures need moisture and some do not. They are mostly trained and certified by schools and hair care companies who want their money like they want my money and yours. The manufacturers have to tap into our emotions and our association with things to get us spend our all mighty dollars with their brand. And what easier way to get our money than to tap into anything that makes you feel good, even if it doesn't work? "Holy smokes and gee whiz," that's what I said!

If all hair stylists were educated, trained and licensed to understand hair and the chemistry of these hair care products and ingredients, the eb, and flow of selling what is needed to customers would flow right along with happiness and profits.

By now you should be ready to take action and be in charge of your purchasing power. You have the right information. Now, what is your actual resolve to those raised layers that leaves hair feeling rough, tangled, nappy, brittle, gritty hair that is dull, snaps and breaks? 

Eat your way to healthy hair.

The answer is protein. "Whatchu talkin' bout Dosha?" I am well aware of people's hatred of protein. But for the record, humans are lean mean protein-making machines. Without those 23 amino acids, our building blocks to life will come crashing down. We not only need the 23 amino acid in our diet for our bodies, they are equally important in hair care. So, what you want to do is first eat your way to your protein. Then purchase products that have protein in them. The best and most effective proteins are going to be your soy, wheat, quinoa, crystal quartz, natural clays from the earth such as bentonite clay and of course keratin. The molecular weight of these ingredients is tiny enough to be absorbed into the hair via those keratin, cuticle or protein layers. Heavier protein molecules from eggs, mayonnaise, and heavy oils take longer for the hair to absorb. Manmade, hydrolyzed or synthetic proteins will suffice. There are many others, but those work best, they are easier to access and are affordable. In addition, moisture binding ingredients for those who wear their textured hair work best to keep the keratin, cuticle or protein layers sealed. For example, aloe vera gel, alpha-hydroxy acids (from fruits), egg yolk, glycerine, honey or molasses to name a few. For those who wear their hair straight or heat styled, use products that have anti-humectants in them. Anti-humectants ward off moisture and keep your straight, silk press or heat styled hair from reverting. Again, remember to drink plenty of water and eat protein rich foods. Annette Hollimon, Wholistic Practioner and Reiki Master of Forever Phoenix located in South Euclid, Ohio recommends that you drink half your weight in ounces to achieve proper hydration. She also recommends getting your protein from whole foods and fresh vegetables. 

Lastly, understand, that hair feels better and readily absorbs the benefits from any ingredient, be it natural, organic or synthetic when it is clean. Therefore, be sure your hair is clean to reap the benefits of whatever you will be using on your hair. The longer you go without cleaning your hair and using the now trending co-wash option to care for your hair, the more those layers will remain raised. The longer the layers remain raised your hair will become more compromised. Also, your hair care will be more expensive.

As for the deliberate attempt to dupe consumers on what moisturizing hair is all about, I hope you find this blog informative and helpful. Share it with your friends. Make it a part of your group discussion. Teach your children about this as well. And the next time a hair stylist or someone suggests a moisturizing treatment of any sort for your hair, tell 'em...

"Aww, dry up!"

Summer Madness

You better not wet my hair!

I once came across a summer quote: "An ocean breeze puts the mind at ease." Well, it sounds pleasant, nice and relaxing, but whoever came up with that phrase was certainly unaware of just how many people are hesitant about savoring the rays of the summer sun and taking a dip in the ocean or pool all because of their hair!

Nat King Cole crooned it best in his song, “Those Lazy-Hazy-Crazy Days of Summer,” a time when people look forward to doing everything or nothing, all in the name of fun and relaxation. For many, it is a time to travel. It is also a good time to finally finish that book you have been reading, catch up on old movies, visit family, work on other projects or sit on the porch with a tall glass of lemonade or sweet tea as you curse winter. Summer usually find us throwing caution to the wind, going for some spice in our life or simply chillin’. I always say, people who take after the legendary hip hop artists, MC Lyte, Milk Dee and Giz like to chill! 

Yes, summertime is good and the living is easy, but not if you have to continuously stress about your hair. When people who are hair obsessed realize summer is fast approaching, they begin to make all kinds of commitments and plans on how this summer will be different. They come up with new rituals for their summer hair care routine. Of course, they want to have all the summer fun they can squeeze in, but fritting and fretting about their hair always seems to be a heavy cost they have to pay. Between the heat and the thought of having to go near water, people (especially women) are consumed with outright fear. For them, the very thought of having their hair in the summer heat or even in water will have them turning into Gizmo from the 1984 fantasy horror movie, Gremlins.

What is it about the summer heat and the water that scares these "Gizmo Scared Haired" people? Well, whether you recall the movie Gremlins or not, here is a little trivia. In the movie, the Gremlins were all very nice and sweet. But, there are three key things you can never do to a Gremlin. One: They cannot be in sunlight or hot lights. Two: Water for Gremlins is absolutely, positively out of the question and Three: Gremlins can have no food after midnight. Hmm, sound, familiar? Minus the no feeding after midnight part, the "Gizmo Scared Haired" people have numbers one and two in common with the Gremlins. Two out of three is not bad. So…I affectionately name people who are afraid of the sun and water during the dog days of summer after the main Gremlin character: Gizmo.

Listen up my "Gizmo Scared Haired" people! There is no need to fear the heat of the sun, or any light for that matter, when it comes to your hair. The sun is actually extremely good for hair. YES, I said that! Of course, basking in the sun does come with precautions.

Now, what are a few ways you can turn your hair into "sun friendly hair?”  Easy. The first thing is to know your hair. Then, know you, know your time, know your budget and know what makes you feel confident. 

For many, the sun poses a threat because the heat that emanates from the sun can wreak havoc on

hair, its color, style, texture and scalp. The easy resolve to contend with sun on your hair is to:

▪           Use a small amount of sunscreen on your hair and scalp.

▪           Wear a hat to protect your scalp and hair color.

▪           When wearing your wash-n-wear style, ditch the diffuser and allow the sun to dry your

curls, kinks, waves or Afro naturally. When prepped right, your hair will glisten. 

▪           For wash-n-wear hair styles, use an ample amount of your favorite styling agent to help form texture and hold the style.

▪           Leave-In Conditioners infused with proteins made of keratin, soy, wheat or quinoa ensures your hair texture will remain intact.

▪           Be sure to use the right comb. The wider the teeth on the comb, the more microscopic tears you will have in the individual strands of your hair, thus making your hair more susceptible to sun damage.

Next up for the "Gizmo Hair Scared" people is water. The first thing I want to do is assure you that you will not turn into Gizmo or a Gremlin if you get your hair wet. I also want to say for those of you who travel abroad to exotic waters, oceans, seas, lakes, private beaches and what not…please get your hair wet. You should not deny the dominant connection of your hair, scalp, body and spirit to its home—Mother Earth/Nature.

Here are the reasons why:

▪           Water from the ocean/sea is very purifying for hair and skin. 

▪           Water from the ocean/sea detoxes hair and skin.

▪           Water from the ocean/sea is rich in vitamins and minerals.

▪           Regular shampoo easily washes away the salt and residue from hair.

▪           A vinegar and water mix neutralizes mineral (salt) deposits left behind in minutes.

▪           Dipping your hair into the water feels amazing.

If you are concerned about the manageability of your hair upon getting it wet, here a few things you can do to reduce the likelihood of tangled "Gizmo Scary Hair."

▪           Braid your hair to keep it from matting.

▪           Wet your hair with tap water FIRST before getting into any body of water. Hair can only 

absorb one chemical at a time. Since tap water also has minerals, it will deposit those minerals into the hair thus reducing the likelihood of absorbing even more minerals from the ocean/sea water.

▪           Using a leave in conditioner with the right comb ensures "ouch-free" combing for Gizmo people.

Milk to the left and Giz to the right
"Top Billin'"

As you can see, the summer madness in hair care is fueled by lack of preparation and anxiety. Don't let the summer drive you mad about your hair. Like the Gremlins, all you have to do is take a few precautions before getting into the sunlight and water. If you proceed with caution, there is nothing to fear. Be wise when it comes to your hair. Be prepared. Have your hair necessities with you wherever you go. Remember: No one has hair like you. Your hair is like your fingerprint: no one else can match it. When you accept your hair’s unique fabric and do what the fabric calls for, you will be happy like the other Giz....chillin' and top billin'!