Sunday, August 10, 2014

The Way You Make Me Feel

Magic happens daily at work!
The other day I was on Google looking for some inspirational tee shirts for a hair stylist. I came across so many, I could not decide on which one to purchase. As I was about to click on a link, I saw a tee shirt that read, "I'm a hair stylist; not a magician." My first response was, "Pompous!" That is the equivalent of a doctor wearing a tee shirt that reads, "I'm a doctor; not God." Neither of those leads a potential customer toward the areas of a great hair style or examination and most certain; not a salon or doctor's visit. 

As a licensed cosmetologist, I know that my primary job is to get all who sit in my chair to have a good feeling about the hair that is on their head and their experience in the salon. I am also of the understanding that, "Hair is unique as the person's head on which it lies." I heard that from one of my favorite hair industry's protege' Philip Pelusi. In other words, no two heads of hair are alike. 

For a true professional understands that every person they provide a service to is different. In the business of service our job is to honor, celebrate, embrace and work with what makes each person different. That is what makes our career so magical!  For every person who enters a salon and is looking for magic; magic is what they will get. I am certainly not in the business of over selling and under delivering. However, I do understand the positive impact I can have on one's self esteem and at times self awareness by getting each different person to discover the magic of what makes their hair unique and beautiful. For those who are adamant that there is absolutely nothing fabulous about their hair, I am one to wave the magic wand of optimism on how one unwanted feature can be offset by another (such as our smile, teeth, complexion, nails, feet, physique, energy, eyes and so on)!
This is where the MAGIC begins!

The magic in the hair salon happens when the person begins to feel their hair, embrace and fall in love with the many things they can do with their hair; as well as all their other physical and mental attributes to make that hair look awesome no matter how little, how thick, how nappy, how balding, how kinky, how gray, how dark, how curly, how fine, how what ever their hair is. The way my hair feels when it is straightened will feel the same way your hair will feel when it is straightened. The way my hair feels when it is curly, will not feel the same way when your hair is curly. The magic is in the discovery of this new uniqueness that makes you, you!


To get the "VOILA" effect on
you hair, be sure the bottle reads
to your hair texture and hair
style goal!
There are four things that contribute to how our hair feels. The first is heat. If you use too much heat; the hair will feel brittle, smell funny and become weak. The second is not enough heat. If you do not use enough heat your hair will be more susceptible to converting, your hair will not shine and your hair will snap. The third thing that contributes to how your hair feels are the styling products you use on your hair. To keep it simple, the reading on the bottle should speak to you hair's texture and the goal you have for your hair. For example, Amika has a product named, "Color pHerfection Shampoo." The label reads that it is safe for color treated hair, it is for all textures and types and the pH is low which prevents the hair from tangling. On the other hand, Philip Pelusi has a product called Longevity. Longevity is deliberated formulated for those who have and want longer hair. Therefore, it bottle reads how the product is formulated for those with longer hair and who want it. It also reads how the product will strengthen and protect the ends of the hair because the ends are the oldest part of the head of hair. The fourth and final thing that contributes to your hair are stressors. Stressors come in two popular forms. Physical and mental stress truly affects the way a person's hair feels. As a result, be sure to use sunscreen on your hair if you will be out in the sun or snow. Be sure to use the proper comb. Remember the wrong comb promotes breakage. Also, bad thoughts. If you think you have bad hair, then bad hair is what you will have. Eliminate both physical and mental stress from you hair care regimen. Good, bad or indifferent; the hair on your head is your. So you might as well learn to care for it and enjoy yourself!

As you can see, the magic in the hair salon happens we make our clients physically feel their hair so they can walk out feeling good about the hair that is on their head.

Now where were we.... oh, ABRAKADEBRA !

Sunday, July 20, 2014

When Hair in the Back Keeps Breaking

Culprits: wrong comb, no protein and improper
styling technique.
"A - is  for apple; J - is for jack; you ain't got no hair in the back!" Is one of those cruel teasing songs that some of the kids would sing as they taunted girls whose hair was either short or broken off in the back.

This blog ndogo aims to capture the culprits to hair breakage, hair damage in the back and what can be done to revitalize the back of the hair. The back of the hair, for many, is the most difficult part of caring for and styling the entire head of hair. The back of the hair for many is actually a different texture and for others there is typically a "false read" on the back of the hair as a result of not combing it properly, using the wrong comb or and using the wrong hair care products. 

For the sake of not writing a long blog, I'll define the "back of the hair" as the part of the hair that
Culprits: not combing hair frequently throughout
the day, the wrong comb, the wrong product and
improper styling technique, not drinking enough water and
not boo booing.
is below the occipital (the ball of the head). The back of the hair typically can be difficult to manage when texture (curly, kinky or wavy) and length is involved. The first and foremost important part of caring for hair in the back is making sure that the scalp is flake free. Make sure the hair does not have product build up (a white/gray cast on the hair or a pasty sticky feel to the hair) on it. When the hair is NOT properly cleaned the hair will stretch, tear and snap as a result of product build up. 


Here are my instructions to revitalize your hair in the back. To ensure the back of the hair is clean, FIRST, apply ample amounts conditioner or a detangler to the back area. Second, use a comb out comb (use a comb out comb with longer teeth, if you have dense or long hair) to detangle the hair thoroughly. The hair should comb through and be free of snarls and tangles. Third, section the hair from left to right (going horizontal) across the back. Fourth, apply a small amount of shampoo and with the balls of your fingers; scrub scalp vigorously, gently cleanse the midshaft and the ends. Repeat the step until the scalp feels tingly. The more the hair becomes clean; the more it will lather, feel springy and comb through. Be sure to look and feel for all three indicators. Just because your hair lathers, does not mean it is clean; so be sure to look for all three indicators.


Best protein in the world!
Perfect for every texture and lengthe
Now that the back of the hair is clean. Condition it with your favorite conditioner and follow up with a protein spray. Yes, X-Treme Daily Repair by Philip Pelusi remains the best on the market. Let both sit for 3-5 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Do not let the products sit beyond the directions. If you let the product sit longer, you risk over softening the hair and it will tear easily during the combing and styling process.

Ok, so your hair is clean and conditioned; now properly style it to your hearts content. If you are going to blow dry your hair. The proper way to do it is in small sections working your way from the back to the front using a Denman brush; not the blow dryer attachment (the heat is too intense for most textures). If you are going to wrap it; use ample amount of wrap product to ensure a smooth and sleek style. If you are going to braid, twists or coil it; apply ample amount of styling cream, gel or mousse (which ever you like). Next apply olive or grapeseed oil to the ends, section hair accordingly, use the proper comb to comb through the section you want to braid, twist or coil and then proceed to finish your look. Please pay close attention to finishing your look meticulously by making sure the ends of the style are secure and COATED. When the ends are not coated, breakage and loss of length are the immediate consequence.

Lastly, nothing will enhance your hair care and styling practices like drinking ample amounts of
Culprits: Definitely not drinking enough water, not getting
hair cut regularly and the wrong comb.
water and eating properly. Water is responsible for your hair being pliable, strong and shiny. Having regular bowel movements are a absolute must in assuring the back of the hair remains strong and long. In wholistic wellness, the gall bladder (where bile or boo boo is made) is associated with the back of the hair; so getting on the toilet to release toxins are key! Keeping your ends cut or trimmed on a scheduled basis reduces the likelihood of your ends splitting and breaking. 



Perfect comb for dense and textured
heads of hair. And is great for
medium to long hair.
When hair in the back keeps breaking, be sure to follow the above mentioned steps and I assure you stronger, longer hair will be the result.