Roll Out

To hell with what "they" say.

Hair stylists listens to a lot of shop talk in the hair salon. Shop talk ranges from topics hot off the press such as the most recent preposterous government shut down for a wall to keep the country safe from people entering the country illegally, to the latest R. Kelly fiasco, to unjust killings of innocent African American men, to America's history of mistreatment of women, and of course thee old hair care do's and don'ts.

While attending cosmetology school, I recall being advised to keep our opinions out of religious and political school of thoughts. To date, I do as advised. I merely listen because they truly do get heated. But, now when it comes to topics about hair, I'm mouth all mighty.

People enter salons with all kinds of notions about hair care. The notions, I must say are all pretty much entrenched from cultural practices to the ever popular and most credited, "they." Yaaaaaas huntee, you know what "they" trumps anything and everybody; including hair stylists. This particular statement was stated around the holiday. A customer entered the salon to purchase some hair care products. She entered the salon with a head full of curls. As everyone complimented her, the customer I had just styled asked in amazement, "How do you keep your curls looking so nice and lasting so long?" "Easy, I roll my hair every night on sponge rollers," she happily replied. In astonished unison, all the other customer responded, "Sponge rollers!" "Yes. Sponge rollers." She was bombarded with statements and questions about how bad sponge rollers were for hair.

Sponge rollers are great for preserving curls.

The customer chimed in very loud, "Ladosha, did you hear what she said? What do you think about sponge rollers?" I replied, "Well, considering I told her to use them, I think they are great for what they are designed to do." Everyone was shocked. You would have thought I took my shirt off, or sneezed without covering my nose, or said I voted for Trump. With haughtiness, they were disdained by the mere endorsement and approval of sponge rollers on hair; let alone to be used to preserve curls. They all had much to say about what "they" say about rollers on hair. There were so many poignant comments about "they," Their comments were coming at me like a swirling scene straight out of Stephen King's 70's thriller movie, Carrie. It was as if everyone's comment was swirling in my ears, "They're all gonna laugh at you. They're all gonna laugh at you." I literally put my head over my ears and yelled, "Who are they?"

The bombardment of comments were silenced. "Who are they," I asked? Everyone looked around at each other, but had no response. My sentiments exactly. In hair care and hair styling refrain from what "they" say. Ignore the comments in your head about what "they" say. Ignore, any comments or suggestions from what "they" say. I honestly have no proof of who "they" are but If I could make a good guess, I'd say, people who don't know much about how curls are created and recreated.

"They" are typically the people telling people things with no merit, rhyme, reason or truth. "They" are typically the people who do not read any instructions per the manufacturer. "They" are typically the people who have lost all or most of their hair from doing too much to their hair. "They" are typically the people who did not complete their training or continue their education in cosmetology or trichology. You see, "they" are not the people anyone should be listening to as a source of credibility or assistance.

For the records, all curls are created in many forms of a rolling, twirling or winding fashion. Be it rolling a curling iron barrel, twirling of marcel curling irons, turning of flat irons, winding hair in a circular motion using two index fingers, or physically rolling hair onto a roller; in order for hair to curl, it must be rolled. Therefore, it is very obvious, for the varying manipulations used to achieve curls are all done in some rolling, twirling or winding fashion; it is practical to do the same to preserve the curls.

The ludicrous claim that sponge rollers pulls or snatches hair out is the same claim "they" make about combs. Just as people refrain and refuse to use rollers to preserve and maintain their curled hair, they refrain and refuse to use a comb to comb out their hair for the same reasons; what "they" say. Rollers not combs pull hair or take hair out.

For the sake of Pete and Pam, please stop listening to "them." Them people will not be there in the morning when you wake up and your curls are gone because you did not roll your hair. Them people will not pay for your hair to be curled daily. Them people will not be their help you with your hair, but you will. Hair styles are not like sculpting and molding a statue. Hairstyles are like sculpting and molding the blankets on your bed. Once you get out, you have to make it back up. Once you get out, you have to make it up. Hair styles like making up your up bed. Once you roll out, you have to make it up as soon as you get out the bed. The longer you wait, the more you pile things on it as you get ready for your day; thus make making your bed more difficult.

The same rules apply for rolling your hair as it does rolling out your bed. Rolling hair is best done the moment you've lived in the hairstyle and is ready to preserve it for the next day to wear it and live in it!

Keep it simple. Roll your hair with sponge rollers to keep your curls. The plastic rollers are not best for all hair textures like the sponge. Plastic rollers may fall out. Sponge rollers snap in and hold through the night. If you are seeing hair in your sponge rollers, it is probably because you did not comb your hair out thoroughly prior to rolling your hair, your hair is dirty (dirty hair sheds profusely) or simply you are seeing hair that is naturally shedding.

Now as for what "they" say about rolling hair?  Put on some Ludacris, motivating you to have them... Rollout (My Business) and roll your hair!

Hair Care

What does hair care mean to you?

Prior to becoming a hair stylist, I was a social worker. I enjoyed teaching parenting classes and getting teen parents to return to school. It was a job I loved to do. To be honest, I was very successful. I completed many reports to funders that demonstrated how mothers reunited with their children and how teens returned to school. Many may think that referrals and linkages were the keys to my success. After all, that's what families in crisis need, right? That is true. But I kind of liken my success as a social worker to that famous "Ginsu" commercial from the 70's, "But wait, there's more!"

Yes, not only was there more. There was another way. Referring families to the appropriate community resources was essential. But then so was, connecting the families to resources that provided bus passes, pampers and milk which afforded them help to aid in their decision to return to school. Yes, referring and connecting was pretty much my focus as I headed off to my drive to work. However, whenever I arrived at my families homes, something more than referrals and linkages were always happening. No, there were no fights. I rarely experienced a "no-show" on my home visits. My parenting classes were always full to capacity. So what was it you ask? Why were the families I served so consistent and determined to modify their parenting and return to school?

The answer is easy, hair. Yes, I must have told this story a thousand times. So writing it in a blog surely won't hurt. Right? Yes, I have a funny sense of humor. Humor is very important when working with people. So, humor is what I used to incorporate hair care into my scope of social work. It appeared that upon my every arrival, my hair was the key to getting my big toe inside the door. They loved my hair. Regardless the race, income, age and hair texture; my hair always became the main topic of discussion. Having no knowledge of hair styling, I humored them by creating analogies to hair care and self-esteem (or whatever the issue was that I was there to modify). Modifying their behaviors took more than a pep talk. My goal was to change their action of sitting in the house complaining, to them physically doing something that mattered to them. I wanted them to experience the magic of their actions. 

Before I knew it, those hair care analogies were being shared more than candy. It seemed whenever I arrived to a home or to one of my parenting groups, the word was already out that the "hair lady" had some good news to share about how to do your own hair. When I look at my career as a cosmetologist, I see that like Brian McKnight; I am, "back at one." 

Yes, with the natural hair movement sweeping the beauty industry like a push broom, people continue to want to know what is going on with their hair. Now that social media has quickly moved from photos to "live" feeds; oh, it's on and poppin'! Consumers are quickly realizing that pictures are not worth a thousand words nowadays. No. Pictures are worth a thousand filters, fancy phone camera lights and selfie angles that make my size 16 look like an 8. Ok, well maybe not an 8, but you get where I am going with this? The case of the fake people is rearing its ugly head. Once again, certain hair stylists are finding themselves lost in yet another trend. At first, it was finger waves. Then it was the Afro. Then it was cornrows. Then it was those Farrah Fawcett layers. Then it was the relaxer. Then it was curly perms. Then it was relaxers are bad. Now it's,  "going natural" (which by the way, I still have not figured that one out. Seeming as any hair that grows from the scalp is natural. But nobody asked me-sips tea).  The next trend certain licensed hair stylist found themselves lost in was, "The Big Chop." Then it was "protective styles." The latest appears to be these "twist out" hair styles. 

The disappointment is real.

In the famous words of the little boy who's video went viral as he attempted to explain to his mom, "Listen, Linda, listen!" Listen up people, understand that hair care and hair styling are entirely two different things. A hair style can never be hair care. And hair care can never be a hair style. Why? Well because they are not trends that you follow. They are not videos and tutorials. No, they are verbs that you do. You really have re-do them both daily. Neither last like batteries or trends. For some reason, many sincerely feel and believe that a paid for hair style or hair care products translate into lasting. 

The time has come to end this madness for once and all. Hair styles have their place in the world. Hairstyles belong in places such as photo shoots, picture day, TV sets and special occasions (i.e. holiday hair, weddings, family photos and so on). They don't last. Hair care products are supposed to be used up. You don't wait to use your products for Easter or a special occasion. Once the hair is styled, it is officially being "lived in." So, the wanting your hair style to last situation has to be put to an end. For the most part on most humans; hairstyles honestly do not last long. The attempt to preserve it is a gallant one. But trying to make a hairstyle last hours (for some) or days after it is has been "lived in" is about as effective as trying to preserve a souffle' that has been poked. Dude, it ain't happenin'. And for those whose hair can last, a big shout out to you and your one in a million hair. For many people, hair styles don't last because hair moves. Hair care products should not be in your cabinets for years. No, they should be used. If you are not using them, discard them. Do not share and pass them off to your children or friends. Many people say to me, "Why am I just now hearing this?" Well, I'm certain it has been said. What it has not been, is PROMOTED. There are not enough licensed cosmetologists standing up to help the consumers face the reality of hair care on real people in real life. 

So, I'm going to do my own "gallant effort" to help the masses with the "how to" of hair care that will result in a great hair style for a few hours if that long.

Shameless plug!

Yes, it is official. I have decided to come out of the closet about my dream. My dream is to be a writer. So, I write. I aim to write to tap into the feelings of what it takes for my readers who want to know and learn more about themselves. I aim to connect with the readers who are willing to be responsible and actually do it. In addition to writing, I am going to teach "how to" care for your hair the right way.  

How does one care for their hair the right way? By using "The Wright Hair Products."... I couldn't resist! They also have to learn how to care for their hair by using the "Wright" hair styling techniques. Doing hair properly requires doing the right thing. I will introduce to the world how I am going to do it. I will be live and direct, Saturday, April 8th at the Reverence Design Team Hair Salon. I will go live on all the social media platforms. Because I am not the only hair stylists in the world who feels this way, I have united with hairstylists from around the world starting with Arizona, Atlanta, Cleveland, Gambia (yep, Gambia the one in Africa), Kentucky and North Carolina. 

In my opinion, the mood in hair care and hair styling is going nowhere fast. It has an undertone of cyber bullying, it's light weight sexist, it's stereotypical, at times racist and fascist. It alienates and leaves many women running to the chairs of hair stylists worldwide with their smartphones and tablets showing us picture after picture; video after video all but saying, "I wanna sit with them." I honestly do not liker that. Because you can't. They won't let you. You don't have their hair, their phone, their filters or their apps...lol I understand your angst and hopes, though. 

I never was a fan of the mean girls, the clique, the echelon, the it-girls, the pretty little liars, the haves and the have-nots and the "you're not a factor bitch-boo-bye," thing-a-ma-jiggy. Nah, I liken myself to the part of change that has taken place in the world of hair care and beauty that promotes cleanliness is next to godliness. The, "be your own kind of beauty" message. After all, change is here. Change, done came, saw and conquered. Change is the new chic. Change is the new "to do." It is the big kahuna and kapow. Change is the little engine that could. It is the BMOC (Big Man On Campus)! And since it is on the minds of millions influencing them to do something about themselves. I have decided to drop the hairstylist, cosmetologist title and be my own kind of beautiful in this hair care, hair styling industry and be a "Change Agent." 

Hair care is about adapting to the changes that it goes through every single day of your life naturally. It will never matter the texture, the length, they type or the race. Because change is inevitable when it comes to hair. Change in hair needs to promoted so you will be prepared to accept and embrace it.  And who's better to help you with the changes your hair goes through than a, Change Agent?

Welcome, my dear readers, welcome.

Growing Hair

"I see the bad moon rising," a popular song from back in the 60's that was sung by Credence Clearwater Revival. It is also the first song that comes to my mind whenever I hear anything about the moon and whenever I see the moon rising. 

Anthony Morrocco is the Master Hair Shaman who
developed this Lunar Chart to aid in hair care and
hair growth.

The moon is mystic and magical. It pretty much captures you whenever you look at it. It does some amazing things. For example, it changes colors, it makes the waves rise and fall. It helps the crops grow, it acts as an indicator for becoming pregnant and it even helps your hair grow. Yep, that moon is bad; bad to the bone. 

In spite of its splendor and beauty, many people underestimate the moon. Many do not understand the moon and its influence on the human body. Since the beginning of time, mankind has used the moon to their advantage to do things that are humanly impossible. How does the moon, that is way up in the sky, have the ability to impact and influence what is going on in the ground, in the water and in our bodies?

Simple, it is the gravitational to and fro pull from the moon that shifts, moves, lifts, lowers and stirs what truly makes the world go round; life force. The moon has mystical powers to help what we put into the ground to feed the masses of people worldwide, possible to grow. In humans, the moon is responsible for increased blood flow, decreased blood flow and hormonal activity; all of which are directly related to our physical and mental health. 

"Hmmm," ye say? Yes, the moon is really bad, a b-b-b bad to the bone! It is amazing how it works. It is interesting how we can utilize the force of the moon to aid in improving or maintaining our physical health. The human body is 75% water. The theory is, just as the moon's gravitational pull affects the water here on earth, it also affects the water inside humans. 

Another theory behind the moon and it's effect on humans is how when women menstruate. In theory, the menstrual cycle in reproductive-age women lasts about 28 days, which is similar to the length of a lunar phase (29 days and change). In a  2011 study in the journal Acta Obstetricia et Gynecologica Scandinavica tracked the menstrual cycles of 826 women. The study showed how nearly 30% of the women started their menstruation near the time of the full moon. 

Going back in time. It was during some time in 1930, a prominent doctor named, John Billings developed the "Rhythm Method." This was a form of natural birth control for those whose religion forbid them to take any form of synthetic or manmade birth control to prevent unwanted pregnancy. The concept around the "Rhythm Method" was directly related to when a woman ovulates, her body temperature and the moon. While it very intricate, many women incorporated this practice into their scope of "fertility awareness." In brief, the "Rhythm Method" suggests that up to 12 days before a woman menstruates, ovaries begin to ovulate as she becomes more fertile, her body temperature rises as she becomes physically ready (or horny...lol) for relations with the intent to conceive. If she does not want to become pregnant, then she should refrain from sexual activity during this time. 

Keep in mind, the theory about the concept of the moon and it's effect on the human body is just that a theory. However, it is a theory that many, including, myself believe because I personally experience them and I witness the theory in live action during my line of work daily. 

If you want to grow your hair, adjust your hair care to be in sync with the moon for optimal results. In theory, as the moon waxes or becomes full, there is an increase in blood flow and hormonal activity. Blood flow is responsible for nourishing your hair. The hormonal activity of testosterone is directly responsible for growing your hair. So cut your hair when the moon is waxing because increased blood flow and hormonal activity will grow the hair back faster.

Hormonal Activity

In the instance of not wanting to promote hair growth as a result of shaving, waxing, hair coloring and the likes, perform these grooming activities during the waning of the moon. It is during the waning of the moon when blood flow and hormonal activity slows. Therefore, shaving, waxing and having your hair colored during the waning phase of the moon would result in longer lasting results because in theory the hair is growing slower.

So, rather you want to maintain your mental health, become pregnant or grow your hair; the waxing (growing full) and waning (becoming small) of the moon might be where you want to turn your attention to achieve them all. 

Growing your hair and having it healthy does not have to be difficult or expensive. While this is a theory, you have to admit, it does give you something to think about. The practice of infrequent shampooing and never cutting your hair will not give you the result of strong hair. Of course, your hair will grow rather you cut it under a full moon or not. The concept behind lunar hair care is optimal RESULTS. If you want to see the results of hair care, then incorporate lunar hair care into your scope of hair care for improved results. 

A good regimen to follow to promote growth and see the results within a year is to incorporate these steps:

Picture your hair like this as you shampoo and style it.
Don't look at those images on social media and YouTube;
they will trick you...lol

• Pre-clean your scalp with Decca Plus' Scalp Therapy or 2 oz of EVO (extra virgin olive oil) infused with 5 drops of peppermint oil.
• Apply the night before and massage vigorously to detox the follicle (the tiny hole your hair grows from).  
• Shampoo hair every 3-4 days fine less dense heads of hair
• Shampoo hair every 4-6 days medium to medium dense heads of hair
• Shampoo hair every 5-7 days medium to thick dense heads of hair
• REPEAT and lather hair at least 2-3 times
• Apply conditioner to ENDS of hair first. Do not apply conditioner to scalp area first. Doing so will clog follicle and prevent hair from growing from it.
• Comb conditioner through.
• Apply Extreme Daily Protein Treatment by Philip Pelusi. It is one of the best protein treaments that does NOT coat the hair. Instead, the molecules are tiny enough to be absorbed to the cortex (where the strenght of the hair is) to revitalize weak hair and rebuild the cuticle (outer layer of hair). 
• Let it stay on the hair for at least 3 minutes.
• Rinse hair thoroughly in warm water.
• Apply a leave in conditioner.
• Apply favorite water soluble styling agent.
• Style your hair to your desire.

Remember to refer to Anthony Morrocco's lunar hair chart to schedule your hair cuts quarterly. 

Now you too will be singing, "I see the bad moon rising" as you care for your hair!

When It Hurts So Bad

When it hurts so bad.

Being a female has many advantages. We get to adorn ourselves in many ways to look different. For example, we can wear certain clothes, shoes, jewelry and make up. We can polish our nails, gain or lose weight. And yes, we can even change our hair. Of the many things that we can do to adorn ourselves, two of those above mentioned have pain involved. Exercise and hair styling. Which one hurts the most? Well that is like choosing between the lesser of two evils. 

Hair styles are rad, cool, sexy, funky, conservative and they can be down right rebellious. A hair style can say a lot about a person before they even open their mouths. But the process of getting that hair style and the process of changing it as we see fit can be a tad bit daunting especially when you add texture to the hair styling process. 

What is it about textured hair that makes caring for it and styling it so dang on problematic and painful? Considering I take care of and style textured hair for a living, I have a clearer understanding of what the culprit is. In addition to working with textured hair,  I have a competitive advantage because I too have a head full of wavy Afro textured hair which adds to my knowing another level of understanding and credibility.  

The pain, headaches, oohs and ow's almost always comes from what I seriously think is the biggest culprit of them all. That one culprit is not knowing what kind of texture your hair is. I am always amazed by how  many people of color seriously believe that they all have kinky or and difficult hair. Why is that you ask again? Unfortunately, thanks to the people in marketing and those self appointed natural hair gurus for stereotyping an entire race of people. They have been very successful in doing this by duping masses of people into believing that race is somehow the determining factor to what kind of hair texture a person will have versus their genetics. There is something about the color of a person's skin that tricks even the most skilled into thinking that it is the skin color that determines what texture a person will have. That is not true. 

Natural hair and textured hair is not a Black thing.
It is a human thing.

For the life of me, I just do not understand how "natural" hair has become a "Black" thang. As if no other race of people have natural hair; not to mention textured hair. Why people? Why are so many people falling for this? In addition to stereotyping Black people, it is also the practices of hair care within certain races of  people that are passed down from generation to generation that I see as the problem to what makes caring for and styling hair difficult and painful. Often times these difficult and improper styling techniques are passed from culture to culture as well. When you put together generational practices and cultural practices; you end up with a brick wall of practices and techniques that are almost impossible to burst through. Again, why? It is simple; cultural practices trump. How? Because within those cultural practices are a level of respect and pride that people hold on to. Hence, self appointed hair gurus. People value the norms and practices of their family culture. Most of the people within that family structure have much respect for what has been, is being passed down or is introduced to them in hair care and hair styling. They want to pass it on. It becomes a "Black thing" simply because that person believes all Black people have the same issue. They will continue to pass on, share and practice improper hair care and hair styling techniques, even if it is wrong. 

They will do things like make YOUTUBE channels, create hair care products in their kitchen and sell it. They seriously believe most Black people have the same textured hair and are struggling with the same problems; even though they are not.  And most Black people will watch it because they want to believe it. The solutions are limited. The solutions are clumped together. Basically, they are sincerely looking for help.

As if women of color are the only people with "natural" hair. Really?

In my line of work, I use trichology (the study of scalp and hair) to help debunk that stereotype. I use trichology to tell people what they don't tell you at the hair salon. I also use trichology to help break the barrier to improper generational and cultural practices that lead to difficult and painful hair styling. As a matter of fact, hair styles are not even discussed until after we examine, determine and get a clear understanding of the individual's hair fabric (texture). I do not even consider race. It is the analyzing, the consulting and the customer's ability to recreate the care for and recreate the hairstyle that sets the tone for the salon experience. This process will eliminate what makes caring for and styling textured hair that hurts so bad. 

The cookie cutter approach to caring for and styling textured hair is causing millions of women to make poor choices about what to use on their hair and how to style it. The natural hair care movement is damaging textured hair in epidemic proportions. It is also the biggest rip off and the biggest contributor to this misnomer in hair. The branding and marketing of it all is preposterous. Again, the audacity to limit and depict "natural" to one race of people is racist. Folk need to leave their cultural practices at home, in the kitchen, in the chair and on the floor of their living room. They need to quit acting like they have been to Africa and is bringing back what all African people do to hair. Because all African people do not come from the same place in Africa doing the same thing to their hair. The mode of operandi via filtered images, social networking and outright overt cyber bullying to those who chemically alter their hair or use hair care products with synthetic ingredients reflects what an all time low certain people have stooped to make themselves feel and look important all because they don't like the hair that is on their head. And they do not know what to do with it. 

Stereotype, stereotype ad more stereotype. 

I have not made it a secret that I am not a fan of those images in magazines, books, social networks and any place else that depicts, advertise or promotes a school of thought that portrays that there are certain kinds of textured hair for guess who? Black people. Black women, to be exact. Then they had the nerve to come up with numbers and letters from A to D and 1 to 4 that they say the bulk of us are suppose to fit in. I ask who are "they?" And I say, "Really people?" What about Black men? As if they do not have challenges with their textured natural hair. What about the races of men who have textured hair? Do they not count too? This is not a black thang. Do you know how many Black people there are in America (not to mention the world) to deduce that many people of the same race to 4 numbers and 4 alphabets?  Damn can we at least get 26 images that represents hair textures? Although assigning each person a image along with a number to their own texture would be more like it. Don't suck your teeth, they give us all our own social security number, passwords and combination locks; surely they can do it for our hair! 

I mean, genetically and phenotypically (hmm, is that a word...lol) speaking, no two heads of hair are alike. It is impossible to categorize millions of black people with textured hair into 4 letters and 4 numbers. It is also ridiculous to exclude other races of people and sex who too have textured hair. I'm just saying... So stop with the shananigans already. Understand that regardless the letter or number there are too many people and another sex to conclude 4 common anything. I get that like clothing sizes, hair textures and types are nothing more than categories that are to simply designed to help us decide on what and what not to do or use on our hair. People, please understand that those categories are not absolutes. They are not even generalizations. Nothing in fashion is more interesting than to see a person who wears a size 14 successfully outfit herself into a size 10. It can be done, but I do not think that is best for the body type or the clothing itself. 

The clothing industry has done a magnificent job with categorizing a very large and extensive fashion industry to outfit everybody who wears clothes regardless of their cultural practice. They have done an excellent job at considering the varying races of people who wear clothes. They have also done a great job at developing a clothing size system to help people shop for what fits one's body size and type. The hair care industry has not. The hair care industry can not. Nor have they not put that much work into textured hair to do so.  I am just being honest. To sum this up, using something that is formulated for curly hair on kinky hair is not advisable. Just like wearing something that is a size 10 when you are a size 14. They are not nor will they ever be the same. Even if it reads, "For all hair types and same size fits all." 

Mariah Carey and "Dem Babies." Funny, their  hair
types are not depicted in hair types A - D and 1 - 4...ijs

While getting your own seamstress to measure and design everything you wear is a tad bit much for the average bear, the concept of specialty stores makes a big as well as make clothes shopping a lot easier for the masses.

Because hair care and hair styling is a lot more affordable and more accessible than a seamstress; customizing is more achievable and doable for all who are interested. So, now back to this hair styling what can you do when it hurts so bad?

First things first. As you can see from reading what I just typed, I urge you to ditch the cookie cutter approach and ditch three things. Hair care products, hair styling tools and hair styling practices that oozes: natural hair, black hair care, women of color hair care, ethnic hair care on the bottle or and advertising. Instead look for the words that have the language of texture (curly, kinky, wavy, straight or and Afro) and the results you want to see on your hair in the hair care products. 

Black & Sassy: lively, bold and full of spirit.
cheeky. What does that have to do
with hair? This company should just use
the words at the bottom.

When it hurts so bad, the language on the bottle will help you better than the image you see in advertisement and in commercials. For example, ouchless, tangle free, combs easy, softens hair and so on. Next, it is imperative that you actually see the words "for curly, wavy, kinky, straight, straight, Afro, coarse, fine. limp, color treated, chemically treated or thinning and balding on it." If not, please put it back. For the record, like soap; when a chemist formulates a product, he or she is formulating for textures, types (weak, medium and strong in strength) and the results you want to see. The chemist is not formulating for race and cultural practices, norms and beliefs. Dove soap is used to clean skin regardless of race or ethnicity or gender. The makers of Crest would never brand, market, advertise and promote that their toothpaste is for White people only. They would never put it down and ethnic aisle. So do not make purchases according to what is being branded and marketed based off of race, lifestyle and attitude. For example, "Black and Sassy," "Baby Don't Be Bald," "Co-Washing." Buyer beware. 

Next, when it hurts so bad consider the cost. Be sure that what you are purchasing fits your budget. Then be sure to use the right comb for your hair texture and hair type. If you have dense, thick or very long tresses; you will need a comb with longer teeth that are closer together. Do not use a WIDE TOOTH comb; it will pull your hair out and compromise your curls, kinks, waves and Afro. Using the wrong comb is the second leading cause to why it hurts so bad. It is also the biggest culprit to compromised, damaged, torn and broken tresses over a relaxer and hair color on any given Sunday. I would bet my last dollar on that. So any one promoting wide tooth combs and de-tangling tangled, knotted and matted hair from the ends are wrong. 

The wide tooth comb is why it hurts so
bad.

Lastly, credibility. Refrain from buying what is new or trending. That means the hair product is still in the testing phase. That means that you and your hair are a part of the testing group. Buy from reputable companies and individuals who you knofw who have been around and have put in the research. They have a vested interest in your unique hair type and hair goal. These hair care companies also have grown with the changes in hair care and hair styling. Companies, who I call the quiet giants. Companies like P2 by Philiip Pelusi and Eufora, have been on the market for over 30 years. Decca Plus and Phyto have been in the market for over 40 years. Those four companies have been formulating products using the finest ingredients coupled with the latest technology for all textures of hair to make hair care and hair styling easy and pain free. They do not care about your race. Those are a few of my favorites. But their are many more.

In closing, I have to steal a thought processes my sister concluded the other day while we were on the phone about self esteem, When it hurts so bad, consider this .... "For all the time, money, energy, sweat and tears you put into building yourself up; do not allow someone to tear it all down." Especially when all they are looking for is money, popularity and a "Like" on social network. Now that would truly hurt so bad.

The Mind of Hair Care

Hmmm, the mind of hair care.

Blogging about hair care is a lot of fun. I get to share my experiences about providing hair, nail and skin care. I also get to meet some fascinating people who often times ask me some very interesting questions. As a matter of fact, I think it is the questions that keeps me blogging. And the question that keeps me blogging the most is, how to care for hair.

I must admit, I do find it somewhat of an enigma of how so many women are looking for ways to not have to care for their hair. There are also a large portion of women who also want to know how spend the least amount of time caring for it. The questions of " no hair care, limited hair care or quick hair care" is something of a conundrum oxymoron. Confusing, huh? 

The truth of the matter is, "quick hair care" is like using mouthwash instead of taking the time to effectively care for your teeth. "Quick hair care" is like washing your private parts in lieu of a shower or bath. Exactly what is the conundrum of a oxymoron that makes the quest of "quick hair care" confusing and problematic? Well, it's the word "care." I don't know about you, but to me the word "care" kind of, sort of implies a person who has time to show it. 

A person trying to remove themselves from the equation of hair care is headed for a quick way to a bad hairstyle. I teach every person I serve that when it comes to hair care, they have to do what the hair calls for. There are textures that require very little time to care for it and very little effort to do what it takes to make it look nice. Then there are textures that require more time and more things for you to do to make you look nice. Whatever the case, rather your hair requires a lot of maintenance or not; what it really translate into is how nice to you really want to look and what are you willing to do about it.

Real life hair

The mind of "hair care" is somehow separating you from understanding the very crucial connection you have to doing your hair and how that affects your TOTAL image. Image to many women is very perplexing. The best way for me to produce a beautiful hairstyle for the clients I serve is for me to get a clear picture of their definition of image and NOT a hairstyle. For what is a hairstyle without image? The best way for me to capture what they have in mind is to have them either bring in a picture or select a picture out of a magazine/internet of what they would like. It is during that process that I can begin to capture THEIR mind of hair care. 

When women look at pictures of hairstyles or they begin to graphically explain the hairstyle they want, what they are in fact is selecting or describing is a what I call a "total image." A total image encompasses a total look that is put together by way of fashion, facial care (that includes a spectrum of facial care that is very made up to no make up at all), accessories and attitude that goes with the environment they are currently living in or going to (i.e. work, date, court, red carpet and the likes). However, the disconnect happens when in their mind, they focus on "hair style."

Confidence is beauty

For example, the myriad of hairstyles worn by Halle Berry are often the hairstyles that many women choose. When I ask them what is it about the hairstyle they like, they do verbally point out the layers, or the curl or the part. But when I point out what really makes the haircut is the stylist ability to mesh together all what makes Halle so very Halle.

The truth of the matter is, I have rarely seen a case of a hairstyle, in any facet, that is primarily based on the hairstyle itself. Hair, like jewelry or a scarf, is an accessory. It is part of the total package of one's definition of well kempt. When you think of hair care, think of your total image. Do not separate your hairstyle from you and your image and what you need to do to bring about a desired image. Instead, I suggest you consider bringing together YOURSELF, your hygiene, your hairstyle, your image and your attitude to give you the hairstyle you really want. 

In other words be very deliberate knowing the power that flow, continuity and inclusiveness has to do with the entire scope of the hairstyle that you think will make you pretty. You can not have any part of a beautiful anything, without you.

To rid yourself of this dilemma, understand that the hairstyle alone will not make you pretty. Refrain from going to the hair salon to "get yo hair done." It is a combination of all of you in the mind of hair care. 

Thee oh so very, Ms. Halle Berry

It will take more than a TJ Maxxinista outfit, designer shoes, a Michael Kors purse, an iPhone and some Sephora lip gloss to make that hair cut and style like Halle Berry's. Go the extra mile. Give yourself a facial, put on a smile. suck your gut in and stand up a little bit taller. Get rid of the frown and angst from the trials and tribulations of life. Our beauty inspires others and more importantly it inspires you. If you do not like what you see in the mirror, change it.

The mind of hair care is that the hairstyle is not the cure-all to what you do not like about your hair or want to do with it.

You are!

A Picture is Worth a Thousand Filters

Adorning oneself is innate.

In the world of beauty, there are quite a few things to be said about it. Let's see for example, "Beauty is as beauty does; as beauty gets." "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder." "God does not ugly and he ain't to fond of pretty either." The list goes on. As you could imagine, of all the things that are to be said about beauty, the popular saying that "beauty comes from within" is one that resonates with the masses. This blog ndogo aims to vibe with inner beauty.

No bath like a vichy!

I don't know about you, but I can recall a time when women making themselves beautiful was liken to preparing a fine cooked meal.  Ya know? You talked about what you were gonna cook, who it was gonna be prepared for, what grocery store you would go to, the recipe, the preparation, the serving and the response! In the history of women beautifying themselves, the beautification process was similar. Let's see, there were rituals of milk baths, dead sea salt soaks to Calgon taking us away to vichy showers and sea kelp masques. Women would compliment that cleansing ritual by wearing support under garments to enhance their figure to look svelte or voluptuous. At times, they wore gloves, pumps and so on to take their beauty to another level. 

Classic "Beat Face."

Make up application went from dramatic as Marilyn Monroe or Dorothy Dandridge look to classic and timeless as Audrey Hepburn or Lena Horne. Now the hair, ahh the hair. A hairstyle is to a woman's image what tableware is to a fine prepared meal. No matter how good that food is, no matter where you bought your groceries from and no matter the recipe, if the food is not served properly on a clean table, with clean plates, flatware and glasses; nobody will eat it. The same can be said for a woman's beauty when the hair is compromised! Regardless the clothes, perfume, body type, shoes, nails and makeup; if her hair is hit, everything else is compromised.

In the American cultural of "getting ready," women did what they had to do to ensure a delightful presentation. For, adoring hair to women was as innate as brushing teeth, thoroughly cleansing the va-jay jay and arm pits! It was vital to our image back in the day.  We did what had to be done. Fast forward to today. Sweet Brown's "ain't nobody got time for dat," seems to be the theme of "getting pretty."  I understand times have changed. Nobody wants to spend all that time getting cute. 

But think, have you ever heard an artist say, "Ain't nobody got time for drawing?" To me beauty is exquisite, intricate, unique and individualized; like art.  In order for beauty maintain it artistic value, it needs some tending to. Beauty also need to be appreciated. Appreciation of beauty will be simply defined as things that one can do done daily to appreciate the beauty they have. Things we can do daily to appreciate our beauty today are the same things we had did in the past, like make time for it. 

The epitome of inner and outer beauty. The
incomparable divine Ms. Lena Horne.

We made time for beauty in "real" time. In the day and time of "ain't nobody got not time for dat," beauty does not get tended to. No sir-ree. Instead, beauty gets filtered. Regardless of how popular selfies are now, no amount of filtering will be able to hide the reality of neglect and un-appreciation of beauty. Filtering can not hide reality. 

That is right, at some point you will be seen in real life. Reality will return as the "go to" source for where people will turn when they want to see beauty. Yeah buddy, the days of Stepford Photos are coming to an end, while the return of reality is near. The social network world of filtered photos will be replaced with the reality of what one sees in real life. "Real life" will get you your "likes" "unlikes" and "comments." Real life will reveal the truth about one's beauty. Real life will reveal who is unkempt, fake inflated and filtered. The screens of television, computers, tablets and cell phones that are connecting us via the world wide wide web will fade to black. No more face time, Skype and Tango. We will have no choice but to return who and what is before us in real time.

Kim Kardashian

I am all for the beauty that technology brings. I am all for what technology allows us to share at our leisure at the touch of a thumb. Yet, I cannot ignore the super duper advantage we as humans have over all this technology and what it allows us to do with beauty... see it in real life! 

Let's Get Physical

Being a professional cosmetologist has its pros and cons like any other career. Like most careers, the more you do something, receive training and get more training; the better you become at it. But, as good as I think I am, there is this one thing in my career that gets my goat every time. That one thing is the great debate about a hairstyle (image) versus exercise. 

Are you a chump or a champion?

As a professional who makes an honest living off of looking cute, presentable to the public and having a great hair day every day, I will make this Blog Ndogo even more short and sweet. First things first. There is no versus. The hair style will loose the debate every time because looking good is something that always starts from the inside.

There are many of days that I stand behind the salon chair and I get countless inquiries about this debate. Now, I don't know if you can tell, but-ter-rumm; I'm no fitness instructor! Nonetheless, I can not think of one fitness instructor who would support any able bodied person compromising their health over their hair. I know, I know; ya gotta get up early to get the kids ready, get ready for work, walk the dog, feed the husband (lol) and so on and so forth. I can see you now reading this blog thinking, "Umph, I bet that fitness instructor has locs or extension braids and does not know a thing or two about a hair style." Well, they may not. Yet, they can tell you that the more you exercise the more hair you will have. And if looking cute with great hair is what you are after; then the gym (or exercising at home) is the place to make it happen. Not the hair salon. 

Let's get physical!

I actually reward every customer who sits in my chair that chooses fitness/health over their hair! I have come up with the top 3 benefits that exercise does for hair to encourage the skeptics to do so. Drum roll please. Working my way back, the third reason one should choose fitness over a hair style is because there is a strong correlation between physical activity and GROWING hair. Yep, ya know it! Exercising gets the blood flowing something fierce. When blood flows hair grows. The best way to nourish your hair is from within. It's free and you do not have to sit under the dryer for a treatment. The second benefit of choosing fitness over a hairstyle is your beautiful glowing skin. Remember when the blood flows, hair grows and skin glows! (hey I'm on a roll here!)  Yes, exercising definitely promotes healthy glowing, acne free and blemish free skin as well.  Just look around; thick hair, blemish free and glowing skin goes hand in hand. Can you say, "Philly Weeden, Jane Fonda or Miesha Wilson!" They look good, don't they? I mean don't just look at their bodies; look at their hair and skin. Lastly, the number one reason to choose fitness over a hair style is because it saves you money! When you exercise you will not waste money on frivolous purchases at the grocery store, clothing store or hair salon. Well, you might buy more gear, but you catch my drift!

Okay now, real talk; if you are wearing any form of braided styles or a pixie cut, you will have to get those hair styling services more frequently. Compared to when you were more sedentary your hair growth was doing the bare minimum. Now that you are exercising you are getting the maximum and again, that blood flow promotes hair growth. So you are not tripping if you find yourself paying more frequently for those braided styles and pixie cuts. But at least you will have hair.

Yes you can!

In the end, I understand that looking cute and presentable in the public eye is very important to us image conscious folk; but I can tell you from personal experience, exercising as needed rules over a hair style any day! I can not think of any better advice to give to any person wanting to look good from the outside in or the inside out than telling them the honest truth of choosing health over hair. When you feel good, you will look good no matter how much hair you have, do not have and rather it is real or fake. 

I look the part of what I promote as a professional cosmetologist. I have a good hair day every day. One would be hard pressed to catch my hair looking cray, unless your name is Hattie Mae a.k.a LaKeisha (my colorist) or Malika (my back up colorist)! Like many, I too had to address my physical and mental health. I chose exercising. I do it at least 5 times a week for 45 minutes a day. I try it all. Some exercising makes me sweat more than others. And whenever I am asked, "What do you to your hair when you exercise and it messes up?" I realistically respond, "I do it over." My school of thought is, it's all about sanity; not about vanity. 

It's just hair people. Get up, get out, get to moving. Eat a balanced diet. Drink plenty of water. Be sure to boo boo; oh and think really good thoughts! The same effort you put into your hair, clothes, nails, shoes, make up, going out to dinner, going to social gatherings and all that goes with it; put it into your physical and mental health. In the words of my boy George Clinton of the Parliament/Funkadelic, "Free your mind and your ass will follow!" 

Let's get physical!