Salons, A Good Phase One Activity?

To go or not to go? Typically, salons and barbershops are the places to be when debates get heated. The debate of to go work in a hair salon or stay at home is now the feature story on the news, government zoom testimonies, social media posts, and text messages.

Opinions are like cell phones; everybody’s got one. In this case, one more won’t hurt. As a licensed cosmetologist, I can think of three simple reason why we should not be in the first round of businesses to open May 1st, in the state of Ohio. I do not need a doctor on the government's task force to tell me that. Drum roll please.

Number one. We should not be open because we have not flattened the curve in Ohio. We are slowly making progress. We need to allow the hospitals to align their resources of staff, PPE and mental health readiness for future patients and the ever-looming potential of a resurgence. We do not work in the hospitals. We are not on the front line, but when we or our loved ones get sick, trust me; we won’t be whistling Dixie. Citizens are getting acclimated to social distancing, wearing masks, washing hands and staying away from crowds. This will take some time. Some will never abide by the rules of engagement during a pandemic. They do not care how their actions can seriously affect others. Some will get the virus. Some will transmit the virus. Some will live and some will die.

Number two. Considering the idiot #45 and the federal government has failed us miserably, we are not aware of the status of the supply of PPE available. This country is broken. “It is a third world country wearing a Gucci belt as one post read.” Money over lives, the American way. Many prefer and value business over science to navigate this pandemic. The beauty and barber industry are in the business of public safety and sanitation, believe it or not. I am not aware if the supply chain is up to par for the demands of all the industries who need gloves, masks, cleaning supplies, wipes, OSHA solutions, bleach, and so on. Currently, salon and barbershop owners will be shopping at supply stores and alongside their customers to buy what is needed to open per the outlines of the state. Therefore, we need to wait for that supply chain to build up so everybody’s spending can be spent on what is needed to operate during a pandemic. The last thing we want is to have to close our doors again. 

Number three. The Coronavirus yields the COVID 19 disease. Both are detrimental and health compromising to African Americans who are elderly, African Americans with lung diseases, compromised immune systems, heart diseases, cancer and obesity. That is a double whammy for us as African Americans professionals and customers. I personally do not desire to be a crash test dummy. I love my elders. Before, after and during the inception of this country enslaved Africans, slaves, negroes, Blacks and African Americans have suffered from diseases that were given to us by those who enslaved, colonized and used us as guinea pigs. From the Tuskegee Syphilis Experiment, to Henrietta Lacks, to Agent Orange. Now, the novel Coronavirus and its disease COVID 19 is affecting us more than the people who reside on the continent where it was first discovered. This is not our stuff! 

Not again, ye say? I dare you to read Medical Apartheid by Harriet A. Washington. The introduction alone will gripe your stomach and tear your eyes. Don’t care to buy or read another book? Simply download the free snippet. If you are the faint at heart and can’t handle the truth of the torture African Americans went through for the advancement of modern medicine, try Dr. Joy DeGruy’s, Post Traumatic Slave Syndrome. That ought to get your drawls in a bunch.  If you are not big on reading beyond this blog, then copy and paste the link below to watch her tell it better than this blog.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGjSday7f_8   

Photo: Lydia Carlis Kearney

Ladosha and Fatou inside The Wright Library

On that note, I conclude. I do not mind the wait. At some point we all will have to return to work. We will have to learn to live during a pandemic. We will have to wait our turn and follow the orders given; rather we like it or not. I am in a financial pickle like most. As a business owner, my business is not eligible for a loan. Nor do I want one. I have not applied for unemployment. No, I have not received a stimulus check. I know the struggle is real. I am using this opportunity to rewrite my business plan. That current one is no good for a pandemic. I am having fun using the “new normal” to do what I always knew was normal. Like volunteering. I volunteer my time every Monday to teach cosmetology online to the students attending cosmetology school in the Gambia and Senegal. Who knew...the library I was able install at the school with the help of the Cleveland Public Library and fine donors would yield what I knew in my heart would some day be needed? The students are using the library with the books and computers donated to learn during a pandemic. I am making some money. Not as much as I do behind the chair, but some beats none. Perhaps, you can visit my new hair care membership on Patreon at, https://www.patreon.com/globalhaircare?fan_landing=true to support my new business venture. 

It is hard out here now. Yes, things are difficult. As the young folks say, “The struggle is real.” It is real. I also know, that no matter how hard one struggles, once they are placed in a body bag, it’s zipped. There is no wiggling out.

In the meantime, I miss you. I will be glad when I can go back to work. I’ll be saving a seat for you. Enjoy this fascinating video produced by Mr. Wil Shelton. He is the CEO of Wil Power Integrated. It best captures my sentiments.

https://vimeo.com/411251004

Peace, love and hair

Ready Made

Big Ma, my great grandmother

I have a beautiful cousin named Nickcole who lives in Memphis. She had the pleasure of being raised in a home with our great grandmother. One day, I decided to ask her what was it like. I asked her if she could share with me an important lesson our great grandmother shared with her while being raised by her. She replied in her extreme southern accent, “Ooh, there’s so many. Ok cousin, here is a good one. Big Ma said, stay ready and ain’t gotta get ready.” Upon sharing our great grand mother’s beloved wisdom, that became the mantra of my life. As I continue living, I find myself looking for advice and wisdom to carry me through, motivate me and teach me like my Big Ma’s wisdom did. Blessedly, I am able to do this through conversing with my elders, the youth and reading.

I’ve talked to many, read many books and articles. Of all the people I’ve talked to and things I’ve read, no one has quite motivated and inspired me like the wisdom of my great grandmother like the legendary, Madam C.J. Walker. I was reluctant to becoming a licensed cosmetologist because my hair styling skills were very poor. My creative mind, fingers and concepts just would not mesh together to create all the elaborate hairstyles that makes once successful. Hair styles such as: finger waves, tapered Anita Baker styles, pineapple waves, En’Vogue’s updo’s, Aretha Franklin’s beehives, Beyonce’s hair weaves; you name it, I simply could not master the skills to bring about a fabulous hairstyle. Yet, while working as an outreach worker, people loved my hair. Their love of my hair influenced my decision to actually becoming a licensed cosmetologist. It was during that time I discerned the difference between hair care and a hair style. I deduced hair care is what contributed to what they liked about my hair. I was complimented on the appearance of it, the feel, the length and my scalp. As I investigated the idea of becoming a licensed cosmetologist, who could I turn to for guidance and lessons if I don’t actually know how to create a hair style, but was good at hair care? In the spirit of staying ready, I decided to do a lot of research and then enroll into cosmetology school. During this time, I read about a prominent African American hairstylist out of Boston, Massachusetts named Olive Benson. Olive Benson turned out to be my “Oprah Winfrey” of cosmetology. She had many accomplishments in her life. She helped improve the formula of hair color to create safe permanent coloring options for people with textured hair. She promoted hair care. She created her own line of hair care products. She styled many celebrities. She won many awards and served as a proctor for the American Board of Certified Colorists. She was truly in a lane by herself because she achieved all of this under the guise of trichology. Trichology is the science of scalp and hair. Olive’s stance on all great hair styles and hair coloring was healthy scalp and hair.

Ms. Olive Lee Benson

Fate would have it, the first year of me becoming a licensed cosmetologist, I had the opportunity to actually meet Ms. Benson. It was via one her customers who needed a hairstyle while visiting Cleveland.  She was a Boston news anchor woman named, Karen Holmes. Karen received compliments on my hairstyle from viewers and her hairstylist (unbeknownst to me), Olive Benson! Olive asked Karen if she could have my number to which she obliged. The day I got the phone call was like any other. The phone rang, I said, “Hello.” She introduced herself as Karen’s hairstylist. We talked literally for almost 30 minutes. We discovered we had much in common. There I was wanting to become a great hairstylist and she wanted to become a great social worker. Then via mid-sentence, she excused herself for not telling me her name. I replied, “Oh yeah, what is your name?” She replied, “My name is Olive Benson.” I immediately started crying. There was nothing I could say or do, but cry. How could that be? I’d patterned my entire career; even my hair color pattern after her. I did everything like Olive Benson, except roller set hair. It was my ability to blow dry hair safely that prompted her to call me because she admittingly was not a fan of blow dryers. She wanted to compliment me and invite me to meet her and share with her how I blow dried hair so effectively. During the conversation, I could feel my Big Ma’s energy of “stay ready and ain’t gotta get ready,” emanate from the ethers around me and the phone call. During this conversation, I asked Ms. Benson who inspired her. She replied, Madam C.J. Walker. “Oh, the lady who invented the straightening comb?” She suggested I do more reading about Madam C.J. Walker and to come visit her after I completed my research. 

Eager to meet her and learn more about Madame C.J. Walker, I ended up getting the facts in the form of a book that was gifted to me from a customer who new I was serious about my Madam C.J. Walker research so I could meet Ms. Benson. This was before the internet. So, when I got that book, I screamed with excitement. The book was titled, On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker by A’Lelia Bundles. Ms. Bundles is the great-great granddaughter of Madam C.J. Walker. It was truly a magnificent read. The book was drop dead interesting with facts about her humble beginnings, her struggles, her accomplishments, her family, her ability to build an empire, earn millions and shockingly the fact that she did not invent the straightening comb! I recall calling Olive Benson almost one year later with my research. I had to retract my statement. I was able to visit Olive Benson. We became good friends. I got a chance to be personally trained by her on her famous roller sets. She shared with me some of her secrets and more. She was most extremely proud that I did my research on Madam C.J. Walker. She introduced me to hair coloring and required that I become a Master Colorist to inspire other African American cosmetologists to become one as well. She mentored me to her last days. I was devastated by her passing. Currently, I’ve worked in the industry for 20 years and that was the only day, I simply could not come in.

Self Made: March 20th, Netflix

Ironically in June of 2020, I will have been in business working as a salon owner and cosmetologist for 20 years. And this month on March 20^th, Netflix will be airing a mini-series titled, Self-Made: Inspired by the Life of Madam C.J. Walker. This mini-series is inspired by the book On Her Own Ground, again, written by her great-great granddaughter. NBA star LeBron James collaborated with a few of Hollywood’s heavy hitters to produce this series with a star-studded cast. In my lifetime of meeting fascinating people and reading fascinating books, I believe Madam C.J. Walker was the readiest made for her purpose and passion. She has impacted and influenced the entire beauty industry beyond measure. From homemade to door to door sales, to education, patents, image, determination, business and the newly enacted C.R.O.W.N Act legislation of 2019; this woman prevails as the greatest of all times. Her contributions and standards are being lived out as you read this blog. Her legacy of being self-made on her grounds is the epitome of the wise words of by Big Ma as shared with me by my cousin, “Stay ready and ain’t gotta get ready.”

Hair Care is Important

Hair styling. 

Google Image

The scalp is a microbial habitat. It secretes yeast and oil. Both attracts dirt and debris which ends up being trapped onto the scalp and hair. In addition to debris, unclean and unkempt hair and scalp are also the perfect breeding ground for head lice and nits. These biological factors applies to the entire human race. The environment of the scalp and condition of hair are what differentiates hair care and separate it from hair styling. Believe it or not, there was a time when hair care meant something. America was in a frenzy to clean up and to get their people clean. That time can be seen from a historical and cultural perspective. For example during the early to mid 1800's, America was transitioning from no plumbing to plumbing and from slaves to freed slaves. This time was unique because both histories were almost happening simultaneously; impacting American culture. A portion of this unclean problem would require tenacity and creativity. The unsanitary and unclean conditions not only affected the environment and communities, they also affected scalp and hair; especially of slaves. Now that they were freed, what was to come of their hair? Who could help? This came in the form of the tenacious and creative Madam C.J. Walker. This pioneer extraordinaire used her unique business acumen to introduce her cleansing methodology of hair and scalp care by promoting the use of her handcrafted hair care products. Historically and culturally she ends up teaching the masses of women (Black) that clean hair and scalp is hair care. Promoting cleanliness was very important during America's unique history of transitions. As of now that important history has been traded in for hairstyles and the now fading natural hair movement. It is my goal in my upcoming series of blogs, posts and videos to remind people that hair care is important. I plan on doing this by showing the difference between the two.

The current focus on hairstyles and the constant barrage of misinformation from the autodidacts of YouTube and their infodemic that fueled the natural hair movement, unfortunately has resurged the same hair and scalp problems that plagued people of color from yesteryear when America had no plumbing, people did not wash up and blacks (enslaved and freed) had no access to hair care products. Hairstyles definitely have their place and a very purposeful mainstay in people's freedom of expression. However, when you take a glance at the history of hair styles, it will validate the framework of the importance of hair care as the precursor to all hair styles. 

The history of hairstyling is strange in many ways. For example, in the 1500's, the Asians were saving cooked rice water to ferment and style their long tresses. The Assyrians were heating up metal helmets to achieve curls. The Europeans were coiffuring wigs with lard and covering them up at night in cages to keep away the rats. Meanwhile on the continent of Africa, Egyptians wore unique cornrow braided hairstyles that represented their tribes. They shaved their heads of hair to ward off lice. And they created elaborate wigs that were hand crafted from the scalped heads of their captives to wear stylishly. 

As societies grew and changed, so did their abilities to live on and off the fruit of the land. Make no mistake, living on and off the fruit of the land was no small feat. As mentioned above, cleaning, hygiene and plumbing would be a few of the various hurdles many developing nations struggled with. Some nations resolved their plights faster than others. Interestingly, the United States was close to last in developing sanitation, hygiene and effective plumbing systems with standards. They faced severe challenges in getting their citizens to clean and wash; even after getting their plumbing up and running. 

The lack of cleanliness and plumbing caused unsanitary and unsafe conditions. These were big problems for this newly forming nation. History teaches these unsanitary problems created conditions that were responsible for thousands of deaths for the soldiers serving during the civil war. In 1862 when President Lincoln signed the emancipation proclamation freeing all enslaved Africans, that changed the trajectory of what the United States would become. And of all the things to worry about, focus on, document, record and report during that time, hair would not be one of them. 

President Abraham Lincoln at the signing of the

Emancipation Proclamation. Google Image 

Hair was not a priority to the powers that be and the society at large. On the contrary, if you were a newly freed slave, hair was priority one. Newly freed slaves were all too aware of the role hair played in the culture of America. Hair determined if they would be rejected or accepted into certain aspects of this new "freed" paradigm. In addition, unbeknownst to many, having beautiful hair was also a rich part of their history as Africans. So, putting hair care and hairstyle at the forefront of their agenda as freed people would be inevitable. Free Indians, Mexicans, Asians, Blacks (freed slaves) who could pass as White by way of their softer textured or more straight to lighter colored hair would prove to be advantageous. They were being accepted into the new paradigm differently compared to the newly freed Negroes with tighter darker colored textured hair. The newly freed slaves knew that too. 

Hair, texture, and appearance would soon be resolved for this unique group of American citizens. The newly freed slaves had new racial categories assigned to them such as Negroes, Blacks, Mullatos, quadroons, octoroons and hexadecaroons. They were now experiencing the "Damned if you do and damned if you don't," idiom in the matters of hair care and hairstyling. This conundrum was quickly solved by the tenacious intelligent hair care pioneer, Madam C.J. Walker. This daughter of former slaves boldly entered the scene to do the damn thang for hair care and hair styling for newly freed Africans, now called negroes by demonstrating that hair care is important. She did it so well, she became America's first Black female millionaire.

Madam C.J. Walker's 

Wonderful Hair Grower.

 Google Image

Continue to read my blog as I delve into the difference between hair care and hair styling. I will write and discuss this issue on many levels. Follow me on social media, listen to my "What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon" podcast and watch me on YouTube @LadoshaWright. It is on these platforms where you will hear my take on the history of hair care starting with my reviews on the upcoming Netflix series titled, Self Made about the life of Madam C.J. Walker and her successful hair care empire! Peace, love and hair.

Dumb Hairstylists and Barbers?

Beauty and Barber education for dummies?

Image: Google

Did you know, “Egyptians are typically regarded as being the first “cosmetologists,” due to archeological discoveries of primitive make-up kits, and, of course, the Egyptian art that shows us how and where they wore make-up. They were known to neighboring cultures for “painting their eyes” using eyeliner and primitive mascara – and in a style and manner that is still replicated today whenever someone wants to emulate the Cleopatra look. Egyptians used kohl for eyeliner, as well as a galena, which was a type of lead. Red ochre was also used to redden the lips, which was crushed into a powder. Then the Romans, the Greeks and others soon followed the precedent set by the Egyptians?”

The history of beautification did not begin during the 1800’s. The history of beauty began before Christ! In addition to history, there is much skill, science, art and creativity in the disciplines of beauty and barbering. Unfortunately, a few powers that be in the state of Ohio do not care. Currently, there are three bills being introduced in the state of Ohio to lower the standards of education in cosmetology and barbering. HB 399, SB 245 and SB 235. These bills represent the belief that the science, skill and artistry are of little value; not to mention history. Lowering cosmetology and barbering standards hurts in three way. The first way is via education. The biggest impact to both industries will be felt immediately when they lower educational standards/hours. The second way are the standards to actually perform the services and the third is the ability to address the diversity of our industry. Let us explore.

The benefits of education are to learn, do, resolve complex problems and gain exposure. When educational requirement on any level are lowered, the communities from which the people reside are at risk. Licensed professionals will lower education will be limited in their abilities to learn, do, problem solve and gain more exposure. The community will be at risk to lower paying jobs. They will not have the ability to ask or fight for better pay. They will be at the mercy of their employer to be trained and taught by what the company gives. The exchange for training or apprenticeships, as we call it in the beauty industry, is grid locked. That is correct. Lowering educational standards by way of decreased hours, decreases the ability to leave Ohio and work in surrounding or other states that require more. In exchange, those people can come into Ohio, but licensed beauty and barber pros from Ohio can not enter their markets.

Education matters.

image: vivateachers.org

Believe it or not, the beauty and barber industries do have standards. The educational standards of cosmetology (hair, skin and nails) and barbering are pretty much governed by the state and NACAS (National Accrediting Commission of Cosmetology Arts and Sciences. Yes, accredited beauty and barber schools must meet certain academic and institutional requirements. If one does not attend an accredited school in any discipline, their credibility is compromised and questioned. Standards translates into what we do behind the chair. When standards are lowered, the what we do becomes lowered. State and government officials who have no knowledge of the intricacies of what it takes to style, create and care for in the matters of hair, skin and nails have no business suggesting or introducing bills to lower our education.

They do not understand how standards, coupled with quality education, enables licensed beauty and barber professionals to open salons and barbershops to meet the needs of the ever-changing scope of citizenship and beauty in America. Lowering educational standards, changing the meaning of hair styles, barbering and scientific terms in the name of favoring one’s way to expand and control the industry over another is morally and economically wrong. Yes, I am eluding to the reality that these types of changes impede, hurt and will in some instances eliminate our ability to do what we do behind the chair. These changes are often supported and even initiated by billion-dollar chain salons such as Great Clips and product manufacturers, such as Paul Mitchell. In addition, they typically persuade the very association created to support both industries, such as the PBA (Professional Beauty Association) to come over to their side of the fence. So, you see doing hair, skin and nails is at risk of being a cookie cutter profession. A cookie cutter approach to hair, skin and nails will only result in customers having the options to look like each other as they purchase from a menu where everyone will have cookie cutter options. So, to all the supporters of HB 399 and SB 245 such as the franchise Ohio owner, Clara Osterhage of 70 Great Clips salon, Mr. Charles Penzone of Penzone Salons, Nicole Cumberland, owner two Paul Mitchell Schools in Ohio and HR-Stephanie Howse (D) and Sen. Sandra R. Williams creators of SB 235 to eliminate education and regulation of natural hairstylists, I say, “Really?”

Chain and corporate salons and barbershops having control over the employment pool and the employed is bad. Having control over the industry compromises booth renting options. If those any or a combination of those bills pass, chain salons and corporate salons will be competing with booth renters. And that will be a sure shot to disaster. Hair, skin and nails have physical, social, cultural, financial and physical ties to them. Creating an industry that divides people according to their skin color and hair texture is sheer madness to this sheer shot disaster. Consumers are demanding a more diverse, creative, socially conscious, spiritual and price conscious beauty and barber professional. They want access to these professionals. They want to know what they use, who they get it from, where they get it, how they got, when can they get it again and why. In addition, they must perform creatively exceptionally well behind the chair. That is the pulse of the cosmetology and barber industry. The future of the industry must grow in education, skill set, technology, science, business, taxes, diversity and wholistic wellness in order to meet the demands and survive.

Are we ready? Are the Ohio politicians creating another revolving door to cycles of poverty, structural racism, new slums, ghettos and white flighted suburbs? These are the same places inundated with chain salons, chain barbershops and diverted filled grocery stores, pharmacies and discount outlets. These places promote a distinct cookie cut climate of hair, nail and skin care options. Those options continually read the “ethnic” aisle, beauty supply stores, $10 cuts, fast cuts, hillites and JPMS. To make matters worse, the dividedness and segregation will clump all people of color with textured hair into a service setting of people who look like them; as if people of other ethnicities and nationalities do not want or can perform those services. As if all customers of associated races, ethnicities and nationalities are the same. They are not.

The public, beauty and barber professionals have the biggest voice. Show up to the Ohio State Board of Cosmetology meetings, committee and senate hearing. We have might and power in us between our fingertips and wrists; vote. The cosmetology and barbering education and profession requires more education. The beauty and barber industry is not for dummies.

Hair Care on the Go

Been around the world and I can't...

It's the most wonderful time of the year. No, not winter; summer! Summer time brings about fun in the sun, laying in the shade, drinking a little lemonade, traveling and hair! Summer season is not only fun season. For many summer season is travel season. 

Traveling has it's own quirks and quivers. The woes of traveling packing, forgetting things, flight delays and long TSA lines are the typical run of the mill traveling quirks. However, when it comes to hair care the woe quickly morphs into a foe. For those who love to travel or live on the go hair care my 8 tips for hair care on the go can make hair care and hair styling your friend. 

Never fear, the author of What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon and writer of this blog is here with 8 quick things to consider as you travel or live out of your suitcase. 

     1. Pack Light:  Not only sounds good when Erykah Badu sings it, but it will also feel good  as you get through your travels easily. Packing lights saves you time and frees your mind. Time is of the essence when you are on vacation or living to and fro. Pack light so you will not be tossing through packed items that you will never have time to change to wear or will frustrate your traveling experience. Packing light will also give you room to fit the hair care items you need for your journey.

     2. Referrals, Google reviews and social media, oh my! Prior to traveling let people know where you are going and ask them if they can refer someone who may do hair where you will be traveling to. Read their Google reviews. Do not just look at the fiver stars. Read those comments. Utilize all the social media platforms to vet the potential hair stylist or salon. While inboxing and direct messaging are nice for scheduling appointments, nothing beats getting a good consultation in person. Be sure to talk in detail with the stylist prior to service about what you want, the time and the cost.

Pack light.

     3. Inspect and Respect Images: Scrolling through images are great. Understand those are photos. Therefore, inspect and enlarge those images to look for detail. Look into the stylist feed to see they are actually getting comments, writing responses and reposting the progression and retention of their clientele. Look for images of them highlighting them doing the hair style they are posting. Scroll to see if you notice the same face twice or more. If you are looking at different images with different people all the time; buyer beware. Cross check other social medias for continuity of posting and feedback.

     4. Cost: The cost of salon services can be easily found on a salon's website. However, if the hairstylist or salon does not have a website, getting an accurate price quote varies. Most hair stylists don't post the cost of their services or quote prices over the phone because of the varying hair care and hair styling needs that sits in their chair. Price quoting is difficult. Hairstylist needs to see the condition of your scalp and hair to determine the cost. In all fairness, visit the salon to get a consultation for the true price.

Hotel hair care? Maybe.

     5. Hotel hair care: The hair care products offered in most hotels are typically not the best for those who have textured or very long hair. While the shampoo will clean your hair, it may make your hair difficult to manage. The conditioners may not soften Afro, dense heads of hair or very long hair enough to comb it. Therefore, remember to pack what you use at home. Nothing will mess up travel experience than messed up hair from using the wrong products.

     6. Kids hair and travel: If your child has textured, dense or/and very long hair, braiding it up is best. When kids travel, they want to have fun; not get their hair done. 

     7. Heat free hair care: Heat free hair styles such as braids, braid extension hair styles, wash-n-go, weaves, locs, twists and cornrows are almost perfect for travel and the hot season. Keep in mind they need to maintained as well. Follow the directions given to you by the person who styled your hair. Do not leave braided, weaved or extension hairstyles in for long periods of time. Because the scalp is a microbial habitat, leaving those kinds of styles in beyond 3 weeks can prove disastrous when removing them. Heat free hair styles are to be in lieu of actually caring or and styling your own hair on a regimented basis. 

    8. YouTube: I absolutely love YouTube. I love the free advice people upload! YouTube gives you the behind the scenes and the how-to's of what you are looking for an answer to. "YouTube is awesome for everything except teeth and hair," is my favorite saying! Do not watch YouTube for directions on how to do your hair or child's. No two heads of hair are alike, except identical twins. Watching YouTube to learn how to do something to your hair or child's hair will almost always prove to be disastrous. Instead visit your hair stylist and ask for permission to record them doing you hair and your child's hair to learn how to do your hair or your child's hair. 

There you have it. Eight simple things to consider as you have fun this summer traveling or is living out of your suitcase. And in the singing voice of Erykah Badu, "pack light."

You can purchase my book, What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon at www.lwrightbooks.com, Amazon and Barnes and Noble. You can also purchase it via iBook, Kindle, Nook and Google Play Store. 

Unnatural Hair Care

The L.O.I.S Scale Hair Typing System

As a social worker turned cosmetologist, something about the natural hair movement in the early 2000's perplexed me. My gut reaction combined with my college education in social science, gave me all kinds of signals and pangs that something about this natural hair movement was not right.

20 years ago, I could not figure it out. Today, 20 years later, I still have not figured it out. While I most certainly understand, agree, empathize and applaud the efforts of deliberately celebrating varying textures of hair on people of African ancestry, I am not quite sure I understand how natural hair became specific to people of African ancestry. It is as if people of ethnicities do not have natural hair too. The other thing I do not understand about the natural hair movement is the constant promotion of the notion that chemically altered hair is not natural. If it grows from your scalp it is natural. If you alter the hair that has grown from your scalp, it remains natural; just altered. The last I checked, if you fry chicken; it's still chicken and if you dye your t-shirt, it's still a t-shirt.

My latest book, "What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon," speaks to the powerful influence the internet and social media has on hairstylists and the beauty industry. I am writing this blog using the natural hair movement to capture my confusion and what they don't tell you at the hair salon. For starters, what they don't tell you at the hair salon, the Internet will. While much of what is on the Internet is interesting, some of it is just plane old nonsense. Let's explore hair care and hair styling. There are like millions if not billions for searches for this topic; thus giving hairstylists and hair care novices a plethora of information to gather.

Read on as I explain the top four most unnatural hair care and hair styling techniques I have come across a cosmetologist and writer on and off the Internet. These practices have seriously influenced the minds of hairstylists and the beauty industry.

They are the LOC (Leave-In Conditioner, Oil and Moisturize) Method, the L.O.I.S Scale Hair Typing System, the Inversion Method to Grow Hair and the Monistat 7 for Hair Growth Method.

According to Google, the LOC Method is a technique for moisturizing hair. This one here perplexes me because drinking water is the best way to moisturize hair. The second reason this perplexes me is, for the most part this technique appears to be marketed to people with curly, wavy, coily and Afro hair.  For all practical intents and purposes, these textures need to be coated more than they need to be moisturized. Moisture implies the hair will be wet, damp, clammy; you get the picture. Any smart cosmetologist, dermatologist and trichologist will tell all clients that wet hair swells the cuticles and swollen cuticles are solely responsible for tangled hair. Therefore, the operative technique would be to coat these textures. And the CC (Coated Cuticles) Method would be more befitting. Leave-In conditioners, oil and creams all coat the cuticles (outer layer of hair) layer of hair.

The LOC Method

Next, thee gawd awful L.O.I.S Scale Hair Typing System. For starters I loathe this one the most. Why? Well, first of all this concept has been jacked from Andre Walker (a.k.a Oprah's old hairstylist). He created the hair typing system to compliment his private label brand over some 25 years ago and now it's being high jacked by some rogue hairstylists. NaturallyCurly.com explains the, "LOIS system is broken down by letters and incorporates all hair types for black women. L = Bend, O = Curl, I = Straight, S = Wave. I take it they are referring to the hair textures taking on the shape of the letters? Any whoot, what a crock of over cooked spaghetti noodles. If you really want to take advantage of this concept go on over to https://andrewalkerhair.com/ and get it directly from the source! Number two, "incorporates all hair for all black women..." Considering, men's hair bends, curls, waves and goes straight, I think they should be included too! Both male and females hair textures are determined by their genetics and NOT their race; however, I'll give them two points for giving me the opportunity to give credit where credit is due...#AndreWalker.

Third, the interesting Inversion Method to Grow Hair. This technique instructs folks to "heat up some oil, like olive or coconut, apply it to your scalp, comb hair thoroughly, massage your scalp for four minutes, and hold your head upside down for a few moments to rush the blood to your scalp for nourishment and growth." Because I know children read my blogs, I will not curse. But, what the French toast and ham sammich are these muffler suckers talking about? I have no clue. It is true, blood flow will carry the much needed nourishments to your hair. And true massaging your scalp for four minutes is sure to increase blood flow to it. Why hang your head upside down for a few more mintues? Jeezus take the wheel!

Last, the questionable, Monistat 7 for Hair Growth Method. Woo sah readers; woo sa! For those of you who don't know, the scalp is a microbial habitat. The microbes the scalp produces are yeast microbes. The scalp is self cleansing just like the vagina. Both do so all day every day. Both orifices needs to be cared for and groomed with the right products, the right tools and the right techniques. When the scalp and the vagina are not cleansed a timely organized fashion, the results are typically an imbalance of good and bad bacteria flora. Monistat 7 was specifically formulated for the imbalanced vagina under the notion that when used as directed for 7 seven consecutive days the flora (environment of good bacteria) of the vagina will return to normal. It is imperative to use the products formulated for your vagina on your vagina; and use the products formulated to clean your scalp on your scalp.

The Monistat 7 Method for Hair Growth

Understand this is for the environment of the vagina, not the scalp. For the record, companies have formulated shampoos specifically for people who have problems with yeast on the scalp, a' la dandruff, clarifying, and medicated shampoos to be exact. I understand how some products can be multifaceted, like vinegar, olive oil and baking soda.

For the most part, I understand what they are attempting to do with this natural hair thang. Some of it I agree with and others, I do not. Whatever my position or yours, it is unnatural for curly, wavy, coily and Afro hair to be moist, it is unnatural (it may be natural, but it ain't right...#lol) to steal somebody else's idea and make it your own, it is unnatural to hang your head upside down for a certain period of time to make your hair grow, and it is unnatural to use products formulated to improve and alleviate problems with the yeast production in the vagina to improve and alleviate yeast production on the scalp.

Understand, the concept of the right products, the right tools and the right tools concept mentioned in my book are about empowering and educating the reader. In the name of shameless plug, please buy my book. It is much more accurate and user friendly to both the hair stylist and the customer. The wrong products, the wrong tools and the wrong techniques as outlined in this blog exposes how they are all about mass marketing to produce mass dollars. They know all to well the horrible narrative of hair care and hair styling for people of African Ancestry brought on by slavery. They know all too well the narrative told to slaves by slave owners that their hair was bad, nappy, kinky and should not be combed. They know all too well those words and terms were wrong. They know all too well slaves were denied the practice of cleaning and grooming their own hair. Now, 400 years later, they know all to well the result of their abuse and miseducation has become a cultural practice for many descendants of slavery. They know all to well that it has now become the narrative of the natural hair movement: don't wash it, don't comb it, it is difficult to manage and all black women have the same hair.

They were and are wrong. No two heads of hair are alike for people of the same race, ethnicity, nation or culture, I highly suggest a buyer and user beware  attitude towards these popular techniques. They are constantly being promoted over the Internet via social media, hair salons and under educated hairstylists. A cookie cutter approach to hair care and hair styling that categorizes and classifies hair to the social political construct of race is played out. Ain't nobody got time for that. Creating and stealing hair care and hair styling techniques in name of popularity to become a social media influencer or famous, get more attention, likes, followers and money will only benefit their Racially AAA (assigned asinine agenda). 

How unnatural is that?

Flair for Elderly Hair

The beauty of  white hair!

Fear enters our lives in many facets. From the moment we see the unexpected crawl of a bug or feel the rapid beat of our heart brought on by public speaking; everyone has something they fear. While the appearance of gray hair doesn't crawl and startle you or causes your to beat rapidly when you speak in front of crowds, for many, gray hair coupled with aging is a pain in the watoosi (otherwise known as the butt)! Gray hair and aging can be difficult. Some dislike having it, some anticipate it, and others downright embrace it.

Whether you embrace your gray hair and age or fight it every step of the way with make up, color sticks, mascara, Bigen or hair dye, there are a few key things everyone who is aging as their hair turns gray must always consider...

Hair definitely changes as we age.

Complaints about aging typically includes a fuss about gray hair. The complaints primarily focus around four issues. Limpness,  turning yellow, style ability and unruliness. The complaints are not so much related to aging. On the contrary, they are attributed to hair styling issues. Infrequent shampooing, not combing hair enough and using the wrong kinds of hair care products and styling agents are what makes gray hair look bad as opposed to how old you are.

Gray hair is an actual disorder that causes hair to loose it's pigment (color). Many people believe gray changes the structure of your hair. It does not. Often mistakes are easily seen and happen more frequent on gray hair because of the optical illusion that gray hairs are more tedious and less attractive to those who have it. Your gray hair is not difficult now compared to when it was darker. Your gray is is just as attractive as you was when you were younger. It is only the difference in color that sometimes changes one's attitude when their hair become shunned.

I don't know whose worse at selling bogus hair care products; social media, info-mericals or the myriad of home shopper programs. Whatever the options, selling visions of long hair from yesteryear, all modalities are like buying a cheese burger someone one took a bite from. If you are looking to revitalize your aging hair or your loved one's aging hair avoid buying products claiming to return hair to it's youthful luster, revert your gray hair to it's natural color or making your hair thicker. Anatomically and biologically, hair changes as we age. Yep, that is correct. As we age, hair naturally become thin, gray and thinner for most people. I attribute the changing of your thick strands of hair to thin strands of hair to the mouth of follicle (the tiny hole your hair grows from). As we age, the mouth of the follicle shrinks in diameter; thus shrinking the diameter of our hair right along with it. Hair care products and supplements can not revert this naturally occurring phenomenon. Therefore, buyer beware.

Au naturale

While aging may be the inevitable, there are ways to make maximize the optical illusion of younger, fuller and with more shine without trying to look like someone you are not. The easiest and most affordable way to enhance and modify the appearance of graceful aging are: haircuts, hair coloring wigs and head wraps/turbans. I advise everyone, short of the shampoo, a haircut is thee most important aspect of a salon visit. A haircut is to hair what fashion design is to fabric. Yes! Haircuts are that important and magnanimous. Hair coloring is a great way to camouflage, enhance or outright hide the changes that occur with aging hair. In earlier times, people wanted to return to their younger years as it related to their hair color. Not today. Today hair color is art. You can do what you like. To be exact, going darker is not the best way to reverse the signs of aging. Because of loss of pigment in the skin as we age, going darker makes most skin tones look stark and pale. Wigs are quick, easy and flexible. You can purchase a wig in any style and hair color, makes wigs a great alternative. Wigs can be removed whenever you want which makes wigs an even greater alternative. Wigs can be bought in most neighborhoods, online or via a catalog makes them one of the greatest alternatives. Head wraps or turbans are great for showing cultural pride and a sense of style. They sell head wraps and turbans in varying prints and colors. Some are pre-made. While others require intricate twists and turns of fabrics, cloths and for some even old t-shirts. Whatever your style, there is a fabric just right for your style. Covering your hair is also a great way to protect your hair from the sun and will suffice for a quick fix when all else fails or if you want to boldly steal the scene!

African head wrap!

The flair for elderly hair definitely ain't the ol' gray hair it used to be. Gray hair can be natural, short, spiked, sassy, colored or covered. Gray looks great on everyone at every age. Today's attitude towards hair, "It's mine and I love it." Regardless the texture, rather it is thick, thin, or balding, long or short, natural or colored; gray hair is on the minds of many. How to care for it and alter it means a lot many. Be sure to continue to make purchases for your gray hair according to it's texture and type, using the right products, the right tools and the right techniques.

Roll Out

To hell with what "they" say.

Hair stylists listens to a lot of shop talk in the hair salon. Shop talk ranges from topics hot off the press such as the most recent preposterous government shut down for a wall to keep the country safe from people entering the country illegally, to the latest R. Kelly fiasco, to unjust killings of innocent African American men, to America's history of mistreatment of women, and of course thee old hair care do's and don'ts.

While attending cosmetology school, I recall being advised to keep our opinions out of religious and political school of thoughts. To date, I do as advised. I merely listen because they truly do get heated. But, now when it comes to topics about hair, I'm mouth all mighty.

People enter salons with all kinds of notions about hair care. The notions, I must say are all pretty much entrenched from cultural practices to the ever popular and most credited, "they." Yaaaaaas huntee, you know what "they" trumps anything and everybody; including hair stylists. This particular statement was stated around the holiday. A customer entered the salon to purchase some hair care products. She entered the salon with a head full of curls. As everyone complimented her, the customer I had just styled asked in amazement, "How do you keep your curls looking so nice and lasting so long?" "Easy, I roll my hair every night on sponge rollers," she happily replied. In astonished unison, all the other customer responded, "Sponge rollers!" "Yes. Sponge rollers." She was bombarded with statements and questions about how bad sponge rollers were for hair.

Sponge rollers are great for preserving curls.

The customer chimed in very loud, "Ladosha, did you hear what she said? What do you think about sponge rollers?" I replied, "Well, considering I told her to use them, I think they are great for what they are designed to do." Everyone was shocked. You would have thought I took my shirt off, or sneezed without covering my nose, or said I voted for Trump. With haughtiness, they were disdained by the mere endorsement and approval of sponge rollers on hair; let alone to be used to preserve curls. They all had much to say about what "they" say about rollers on hair. There were so many poignant comments about "they," Their comments were coming at me like a swirling scene straight out of Stephen King's 70's thriller movie, Carrie. It was as if everyone's comment was swirling in my ears, "They're all gonna laugh at you. They're all gonna laugh at you." I literally put my head over my ears and yelled, "Who are they?"

The bombardment of comments were silenced. "Who are they," I asked? Everyone looked around at each other, but had no response. My sentiments exactly. In hair care and hair styling refrain from what "they" say. Ignore the comments in your head about what "they" say. Ignore, any comments or suggestions from what "they" say. I honestly have no proof of who "they" are but If I could make a good guess, I'd say, people who don't know much about how curls are created and recreated.

"They" are typically the people telling people things with no merit, rhyme, reason or truth. "They" are typically the people who do not read any instructions per the manufacturer. "They" are typically the people who have lost all or most of their hair from doing too much to their hair. "They" are typically the people who did not complete their training or continue their education in cosmetology or trichology. You see, "they" are not the people anyone should be listening to as a source of credibility or assistance.

For the records, all curls are created in many forms of a rolling, twirling or winding fashion. Be it rolling a curling iron barrel, twirling of marcel curling irons, turning of flat irons, winding hair in a circular motion using two index fingers, or physically rolling hair onto a roller; in order for hair to curl, it must be rolled. Therefore, it is very obvious, for the varying manipulations used to achieve curls are all done in some rolling, twirling or winding fashion; it is practical to do the same to preserve the curls.

The ludicrous claim that sponge rollers pulls or snatches hair out is the same claim "they" make about combs. Just as people refrain and refuse to use rollers to preserve and maintain their curled hair, they refrain and refuse to use a comb to comb out their hair for the same reasons; what "they" say. Rollers not combs pull hair or take hair out.

For the sake of Pete and Pam, please stop listening to "them." Them people will not be there in the morning when you wake up and your curls are gone because you did not roll your hair. Them people will not pay for your hair to be curled daily. Them people will not be their help you with your hair, but you will. Hair styles are not like sculpting and molding a statue. Hairstyles are like sculpting and molding the blankets on your bed. Once you get out, you have to make it back up. Once you get out, you have to make it up. Hair styles like making up your up bed. Once you roll out, you have to make it up as soon as you get out the bed. The longer you wait, the more you pile things on it as you get ready for your day; thus make making your bed more difficult.

The same rules apply for rolling your hair as it does rolling out your bed. Rolling hair is best done the moment you've lived in the hairstyle and is ready to preserve it for the next day to wear it and live in it!

Keep it simple. Roll your hair with sponge rollers to keep your curls. The plastic rollers are not best for all hair textures like the sponge. Plastic rollers may fall out. Sponge rollers snap in and hold through the night. If you are seeing hair in your sponge rollers, it is probably because you did not comb your hair out thoroughly prior to rolling your hair, your hair is dirty (dirty hair sheds profusely) or simply you are seeing hair that is naturally shedding.

Now as for what "they" say about rolling hair?  Put on some Ludacris, motivating you to have them... Rollout (My Business) and roll your hair!

Winter Hair Care

Have you ever done strange things as a practice you did not understand why you were doing them? For example, do you pick your purse off the floor the moment you realize your mom always said, “Don‘t put your purse on the floor or else you’ll be broke?” Do you refuse to turn on the air conditioner in your car because someone told you doing so burns more gas? Or do you not wear white after labor day? These are a few things that come to my mind when I think about my family, friends and myself doing things out of habit or because someone told us. 

As it relates to habits, it would be more like routine or rote memory; doing things on auto pilot. The latter, would be, because momma (or an elder) said so. Rather putting your purse on the floor will have money flying out your purse faster than you can spend it or turning off the AC in your car will save on gas or if wearing white after labor day will cause a fashion faux pas; we all are a lil guilty of doing strange things we have no clue because Momma said so or because of something we heard or read. I can say the same about hair care. 

As a hairstylist, I hear strange things about hair care and hair styling. The winter is fast approaching. It is during this time of the year I continue to hear winter weather causes hair to fall out or contributes to damaged hair. 

Most wives tales are turned into beliefs after years or generations of saying them. For many wives tales are not only said, but they are also done. As a hair stylist we hear and see of many wives tales. Winter season is approaching, so are the wives tale about winter and hair. While, I have no idea how they got started, I am interested in putting an end to three popular wives tale. I will identify three wives tales, their culprits and conclude with three solutions. Perhaps these three winter wives tale will be in their last season!

Winter is here. These are the three wives tales I hear the most: winter causes hair to fall out, become dry and compromise hairstyles.

Winter can't make hair fall out, but lifestyle changes can. Cold weather does affect hair, but not drinking enough water will parch hair faster than mercury moving on a thermometer. As for hairstyles not lasting, provided the elements does not physically wet the hair, not combing hair to recreate the look is more responsible than the weather, a hat  scarf or wool coat.

The first solution for a less active lifestyle is to exercise. Exercising promotes blood flow. Blood flow carries vital nutrients to hair; thus making it strong and healthy. During winter months, it is not uncommon to become more sedentary. It is cold outside. People are more apt to simply go home and snuggle with someone or under the blankets after a long day. The decrease in physical activity can influence performance and appearance of hair. 

The solution for dry hair during the winter month is water intake. Drinking plenty of water is crucial to healthy hair. During winter months, warm and tasty cocoas, coffees, teas and fine spirits are the choice of many when it's cold outside and holiday parties are everywhere. An increase in beverages with decrease in consumption of water is common. The lack of drinking plenty of water contributes to hair feeling dry, looking dry, scaly scalps; thus making hair more susceptible to breakage. 

Cold weather, snow and slushy grounds are enough to make the average bear say, "Bah humbug," to caring for hair. The solution to saving a hair style during the winter months is to comb it. Prior to going out into the elements, cover your entire head of hair. Once snow, rain, sleet or slush hit it; the style is over. Second, upon taking your hats, scarves and coats off, comb your hair thoroughly. Fluff, shake and go or running your fingers through your hair are sure to promote dryness. Materials rob hair and scalp of oil. Therefore combing immediately after removing hats, scarves and coats will quickly restore your hair's natural luster. Wear hairstyles that are sleek, simpler or braided. Sleek and braided hairstyles are low maintenance. They also look stylish between work and social functions. 

A decrease in physical activity, water intake and grooming are the culprits to dull, dry hair and scalp during the winter months. When it is cold outside, do go inside. Just remember to keep moving, drink water, comb your hair frequently to prevent hair damage during the winter season. 

Winter is here. As it arrives, sunshine leaves. The nothing to do blues will make you want to snuggle, sleep in and not want to get up and work out. They will entice you to consume one more hot cocoa, one more shot and of course one more hour on the sleep. 

Before you hit the snooze button, take one more drink and run your fingers through your hair, remind yourself to care for your hair. Just because it's cold outside, your hair can still look and feel nice! 

To learn more about hair care, visit www.lwrightbooks.com to order my new book, What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon.