Winter Hair Care

Have you ever done strange things as a practice you did not understand why you were doing them? For example, do you pick your purse off the floor the moment you realize your mom always said, “Don‘t put your purse on the floor or else you’ll be broke?” Do you refuse to turn on the air conditioner in your car because someone told you doing so burns more gas? Or do you not wear white after labor day? These are a few things that come to my mind when I think about my family, friends and myself doing things out of habit or because someone told us. 

As it relates to habits, it would be more like routine or rote memory; doing things on auto pilot. The latter, would be, because momma (or an elder) said so. Rather putting your purse on the floor will have money flying out your purse faster than you can spend it or turning off the AC in your car will save on gas or if wearing white after labor day will cause a fashion faux pas; we all are a lil guilty of doing strange things we have no clue because Momma said so or because of something we heard or read. I can say the same about hair care. 

As a hairstylist, I hear strange things about hair care and hair styling. The winter is fast approaching. It is during this time of the year I continue to hear winter weather causes hair to fall out or contributes to damaged hair. 

Most wives tales are turned into beliefs after years or generations of saying them. For many wives tales are not only said, but they are also done. As a hair stylist we hear and see of many wives tales. Winter season is approaching, so are the wives tale about winter and hair. While, I have no idea how they got started, I am interested in putting an end to three popular wives tale. I will identify three wives tales, their culprits and conclude with three solutions. Perhaps these three winter wives tale will be in their last season!

Winter is here. These are the three wives tales I hear the most: winter causes hair to fall out, become dry and compromise hairstyles.

Winter can't make hair fall out, but lifestyle changes can. Cold weather does affect hair, but not drinking enough water will parch hair faster than mercury moving on a thermometer. As for hairstyles not lasting, provided the elements does not physically wet the hair, not combing hair to recreate the look is more responsible than the weather, a hat  scarf or wool coat.

The first solution for a less active lifestyle is to exercise. Exercising promotes blood flow. Blood flow carries vital nutrients to hair; thus making it strong and healthy. During winter months, it is not uncommon to become more sedentary. It is cold outside. People are more apt to simply go home and snuggle with someone or under the blankets after a long day. The decrease in physical activity can influence performance and appearance of hair. 

The solution for dry hair during the winter month is water intake. Drinking plenty of water is crucial to healthy hair. During winter months, warm and tasty cocoas, coffees, teas and fine spirits are the choice of many when it's cold outside and holiday parties are everywhere. An increase in beverages with decrease in consumption of water is common. The lack of drinking plenty of water contributes to hair feeling dry, looking dry, scaly scalps; thus making hair more susceptible to breakage. 

Cold weather, snow and slushy grounds are enough to make the average bear say, "Bah humbug," to caring for hair. The solution to saving a hair style during the winter months is to comb it. Prior to going out into the elements, cover your entire head of hair. Once snow, rain, sleet or slush hit it; the style is over. Second, upon taking your hats, scarves and coats off, comb your hair thoroughly. Fluff, shake and go or running your fingers through your hair are sure to promote dryness. Materials rob hair and scalp of oil. Therefore combing immediately after removing hats, scarves and coats will quickly restore your hair's natural luster. Wear hairstyles that are sleek, simpler or braided. Sleek and braided hairstyles are low maintenance. They also look stylish between work and social functions. 

A decrease in physical activity, water intake and grooming are the culprits to dull, dry hair and scalp during the winter months. When it is cold outside, do go inside. Just remember to keep moving, drink water, comb your hair frequently to prevent hair damage during the winter season. 

Winter is here. As it arrives, sunshine leaves. The nothing to do blues will make you want to snuggle, sleep in and not want to get up and work out. They will entice you to consume one more hot cocoa, one more shot and of course one more hour on the sleep. 

Before you hit the snooze button, take one more drink and run your fingers through your hair, remind yourself to care for your hair. Just because it's cold outside, your hair can still look and feel nice! 

To learn more about hair care, visit www.lwrightbooks.com to order my new book, What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon.

The Have Knots

Hide ya wife, hide your hair!

The history of cleaning textured hair is yet another telling story of the downright mean treatment of the Africans who were enslaved. When the story of slavery is told, it has an undertone of people of color who came from a dark continent who were void of content, character, spirit, and purpose. It reads as if the people they stole and enslaved were merely dark colored slaves. This leads into the confusion in caring for textured hair today.

The history of slavery in America tells the story of devaluing human life abusively. This abuse was hash. It was from extreme physical and mental abuse to the subtleties of denying slaves simple human hygiene; such as hair care.

When the Africans were enslaved most don't realize they brought them over with nothing. They were not allowed to practice any rituals of any sort. Many were from different regions and did not speak the same language. So the ability to communicate with one another on how to carry on any sort of ritual was out of the question. Zoe Olivia Rhodes, a student at the University of Warwick in the UK writes this in her dissertation on textured hair that brings to surface the above-mentioned fact, "historically, Afro hair was denigrated by European slave masters. Slaves hair was referred to a wool; contributing towards black slaves being treated as animals and not being human beings." Her research argues, "this behavior came as a response to racist ideology and was meant to devalue the physical attributes of black people in order to sustain white supremacy. Indeed this denigration affected how slaves perceived themselves and resulted in them disguising their hair so it appeared more European or it was covered up." This affliction still haunts many Africans and people with textured hair today. So begins the woes of the haves and the have knots.

Considering Africans were brought here forcibly with no ties to the resources to care for their hair and the belief that they were not humans worthy of soap, water, and a comb; explains the present day mass confusion. In addition, it explains the refusal to ensure that all who are licensed to do hair know how to care for and sometimes style Afro-textured hair.  To reiterate, in the Americas, the start of hair care for Afro-textured hair people started from the mindset of people who controlled them and did not look like them. Remember they believed the enslaved Africans hair was of no pertinent value. Because they believed they were not humans; they taught them all to not clean their hair, not comb their hair or to cover it up.

From there, the madness in caring for textured hair began. Africans and Black people in the Americas pretty much hold on to this belief and practice today. Just as many who practice the ritual of placing a lost tooth under a pillow in exchange for money from the Tooth Fairy. Demanding Africans and Blacks in the Americas to clean their hair more often is like asking them to not believe in the Tooth Fairy. Many still hold on to the belief that cleaning hair frequently is for Whites. Cleaning hair infrequently from 2 weeks to two months is fine for Blacks, bi-racial or people with textured hair. They believe this to be a very effective ritual and practice simply because of the color of their skin, the texture of their hair and the local of where they reside.

This blog aims to debunk both belief and practice. Hair for all humans is an appendage of skin, regardless of race, texture, region or nationality. Hair grows individually from a regenerative organ or tiny hole called a follicle. Every seven years, the body gives each tiny hole or follicle a new strand of hair. The scalp; like the mouth, ears, nose, vagina, and mouth is self-cleaning. Therefore, like those other orifices, the scalp and hair need to be cleaned regularly with appropriate cleansers per the scalp, hair texture, and type.

To clean knotty and textured hair effectively, you must know what kind of textured hair you have. Is it curly, wavy, kinky, Afro or a combination? A trichologist or dermatologist is qualified to identify hair textures and types. You can opt to do one yourself by using a magnifying glass to see the direction the hair grows from the scalp and a simple tug of one strand of hair. If the hair grows straight from the scalp, it is straight. If the hair grows in an angle, it is wavy. If the hair grows in an obvious "c" pattern, it is curly. If the hair grows close and flat to the scalp, it is considered kinky. If there is frizz accompanying any of those growth patterns, it is combined with Afro. Thus making it combination between Afro and the textured growing from the scalp. If you tug the one strand and it snaps quickly, it is fine weak hair. If you tug the one strand of hair and it takes a while to snap, it is medium or normal hair. It is not too weak or strong. If you tug the one strand of hair and it never snaps, it is coarse or very strong hair.

Because slavery was such a money-making venture, the practice of making money made its way into everything; including hair. So, here is where the masses continue to have cleaning hair wrong from White slave masters. How you ask? To clear things up, the semantics used to explain and justify cleaning hair are wrong. For starters, the word shampoo is wrong and used interchangeably. This means more confusion which means more money.

Washing hair, cleaning hair and is NOT shampooing hair. The all have different meanings. Washing hair is a method of cleaning hair with a mild to vigorous scrub with shampoo, but not the scalp. Cleaning hair is to use the proper techniques to ensure that the scalp tingles and the hair squeaks; which means both scalp and hair are properly cleansed. A shampoo is a Hindu word that translates to massage. A shampoo is also the name of the soap people used to apply to hair and scalp to clean it. Let the madness continue as they get rich off the stupidity of the masses.  Shampooing hair and scalp really does and means nothing as it relates to washing or cleansing, again because to shampoo hair and scalp literally means to massage it. So why you may not be getting either cleaned, it sure feels good to get a good massage!

Shampoos are basically soaps with fancy ingredients and names that are formulated to clean hair or/and scalp. All shampoos are not formulated to clean the scalp. Be sure to read the label and instructions before you buy. Conditioners are formulated to help with manageability and appearance of hair. So both are created by scientists who specialize in cosmetic formulations to create a cleansing and softening agents according to hair textures. Those are called shampoos and conditioners.  Both products affect the performance of hair as it relates to cleanliness, volume, shine, sleekness, manageability, color protection, chemical altered fibers, artificial fibers and so on. Again race and nationality are not included in this formulation. Marketing and advertisement are responsible for the introduction of race and nationality to help sell the shampoo and conditioner.

The technique to clean textured hair is different from the technique of cleaning hair that is straight. To clean textured hair effectively, you must part and section the hair, then apply the shampoo (soap) directly to the scalp, scrub the scalp vigorously and conclude this cleansing process with a mild to aggress massage (shampoo). To shampoo straight hair effectively, you can either section the hair into parts and apply to the scalp, then scrub vigorously and conclude with a massage (shampoo). You can also, squeeze the soap (shampoo) into your hands, apply to hair and scrub vigorously into scalp. This process can be repeated 2-3 times if hair and scalp is cleansed within 6 days. If the hair has not been cleaned in over 7 days, the steps must be repeated 4-5 times to ensure flakes, fibrin and yeast are cleansed away from the scalp and hair properly. Hair must squeak in order to be considered clean. If hair does not squeak, then the hair is not clean. If the scalp does not feel tingly, then the scalp is not clean. The scalp must tingle in order to be considered clean.

To condition all hair textured and types effectively, use conditioner according to you hair type and texture just as you do when selecting a cleanser (shampoo). I suggest the language on the bottle speaks close to the language you use to describe the goal you want to see with your hair. Do not purchase conditioners according to your race or nationality. Apply conditioners to the ends of your hair first, then work your way up. Because the ends of your hair are the oldest part of the hair, they need to be conditioned first. After working the product up towards the scalp, use a comb to comb product through hair thoroughly. This assures the product is on every strand. Rubbing conditioners onto hair at the scalp area first does nothing but mosh the product around; thus making it settle to the scalp causing more flakes and itchiness. That will also inhibit the performance of the product giving it bad reviews and making the hair look and feel coated, dull and difficult to manage.

Be sure to use the proper comb for your hair texture and type. Straight hair typically requires larger tooth combs. Textured and Afro hair requires combs with more teeth that are closer and longer to prevent tearing and ripping of textured strands of hair. Using this kind of comb also reduces cramping in the hands and ensures even distribution of products throughout the hair. Lastly, using the proper comb will not damage the scalp.

When cleaning hair be sure to use warm water. Do not use hot water. Hot water will dry hair out, thus making it more difficult to comb and look nice. When conditioning hair, use cooler water. Cooler water causes the tiny hair scales called cuticles or keratin layers to lie flat. This will certainly make hair very easy to comb and shine more. Do not use cold water. Using cold water makes rinsing away the product ineffective and leaving hair difficult to comb and manage. Therefore, be sure to use cooler temperatures.

As you can see having knotty hair requires more than the mere act of purchasing something with images and words that are similar to you and your physical traits. Knotty hair care requires scalp care as well. The methods to cleaning and caring for knotty hair and not so knotty hair has three simple steps in no given order; the right products, the right tools, and the right technique. End the racist practice in hair care, starting with yourself and your family today. Embrace your hair and the time it takes to care for it. Having textured hair makes you unique not a money bag. Understand, people are getting very wealthy off of your ignorance, refusal to change and belief in the hocus pocus magic of the Tooth Fairy. We all know how the money gets their now. It comes a point and time to tell your child there is no such thing as a tooth fairy. There also comes a point and time to tell Africans who have resided in the Americas and have a lineage to slavery that not combing your hair, using a wide tooth comb, co-washing, infrequent shampooing are wrong as well. Instead, follow these three steps. They are as easy as 1, 2, 3. To not follow those rules only results in you being amongst the haves and the have KNOTS!

Peace out!

The Best Hair Moisturizer

Hands down, the number one complaint about hair is that it is too dry. All day every day, everywhere; someone is complaining about dry hair. In addition to complaining about dry hair, people also complain about the difficulty of finding the right product to remedy their dry tresses. They are in constant search for the perfect moisturizer. Oh, but the search becomes a tad bit tricky if one person's hair texture is different from the other. For example, those who have straight hair, are looking for something that will make their hair feel silky, more smooth, shine more and less likely to revert or frizz.  For those who have curly or Afro textures, they are looking for a moisturizer that will make their texture spring, coil, curl, wave while at the same time giving it some slip and actual moistness. Both hair types loathe the dry, frizzy, dull, and brittle feel to their textured hair. 

Well, guess what? The solution to dry hair, rather it is straight or textured, is NOT a topical moisturizer or moisturizing treatment of any sort! I know, sayings like, "Stawpitt Judy!" or "Whatchu talkin bout Willis,"  comes to mind, right? Yes, my wonderful hair junkies, knotty know it alls, natural knowers, textured Titans, and organic only's, moisturizers in the world of hair care ain't what they are pretending to be. Most products that claim to moisturize hair, do not. They simply coat the hair; thus making it literally dry.

But, why? How can that be? Read on before you click that mouse and search for more answers. You know the name of my blog is, "What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon," right? So let me tell you what they are not telling you at the hair salon. After you read this blog, you will have a clear understanding of what to do about your hair that you have been lead to believe is dry and is in need of moisture.  

Holy, smokes and gee whiz!

First, what they don't tell you at the hair salon about moisture and hair is that moisture for hair is an internal process. Properly moisturized hair only begins with a well-hydrated body. Before you purchase another bottle of moisturizing anything, I urge you to pick up a bottle of water or pour you a few cups and drink up. If you hate water, then your hair will truly be dry and no fancy moisturizer will help. 

Second, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that each fiber of hair consists of several outer layers that comprise of what we see (hair on our heads) with the naked eye called keratin. Another term for keratin is cuticle layer.  If you were to look at each strand of hair fibers under a microscope, those fibers would resemble fish scales or shingles on a roof. The objective to hair feeling, being manageable and looking a certain way is in direct association with that very tiny microscopic keratin or those cuticle layers. Also, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that those tiny scales or shingles must always lay flat in order for your hair (regardless the texture or

hairstyle) to feel and look nice. So, when you touch your hair and it feels brittle, gritty and frizzy, what you are actually feeling are those tiny microscopic scales that are raised. Because you are not aware that those keratin or cuticle layers are actually raised, your mind associates the feel of your hair with dryness. That is why the objective in hair care is to keep that tiny microscopic keratin or cuticle layers flat, not moist. If those layers are raised in any form, the result is hair that feels rough, gritty and brittle. Your hair will also tangle, mat and knot easily. From there, your hair will begin to snap and break. Then when you look at your shirt or in the sink or on the floor; all you will see are frayed fibers lying about. The next thing you know, you are running to the salon or beauty supply store in search of a moisturizer to stop what you think is dry hair from falling out. On the other hand, if you use products that actually 
coat and keep the hair physically damp, more breakage, musty smelling, and snapping is the result.

Third, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that 90% of all hair care products primary ingredient is water. When water comes into contact with hair, the result is buckled, swollen cracked, gritty, brittle and rough feeling hair. Just as water damages wood, fabrics, metals or skin; it does the same to hair. Initially, when anything is immersed in water it looks and feels great. Take a moment and think about how sexy you and your hair looks when wet. Place your clothes in water; notice the colors look so rich and moist. Now place your favorite flatware in water; it too looks amazingly more vibrant in color and shiny in appearance. Now step out the water or remove those items from the water. Next, allow them to air dry. How does your skin feel? How do your hair, face, and feet feel? What about your flatware? How do they look? Now touch them. Feel free to apply oil or some sort of shining finisher in the water or on your items. Hours later, touch your body, hair, face, feet, and items again. How do they feel? Still a somewhat rough, gritty and brittle, huh? 
Feel me? Yeah, buddy, that's how they getcha.

What they are not telling you at the hair salon is that you have been trained and taught to verbally express raised keratin or cuticle layers as dry hair. And since they really want more money, they have also trained you to believe that now your hair is damaged. Damaged hair, dry hair, brittle hair, color faded hair, dry relaxed hair, dull breaking locks, frizzy cornrow braids, tangled nappy hair, dry limp hair are all synonymous raised keratin or cuticle layers. 

Now for the kicker. And just as those words are synonymous with keratin and cuticle layers, so is protein! Shocking isn't it? Say it ain't so, you declare?

Don't believe me? Click on another link and read for yourself. 

Welcome back. Quite interesting isn't it? Keratin, cuticle layers, and protein all mean the same thing. Damn semantics. Semantics are the things I do not like about the "American English" language. They play too much with them words...LOL 

You are getting sleepy...

What you have been deliberately misled to believe is dry, tangled, knotty, nappy, frizzy, dull, weak and damaged hair is actually raised keratin, cuticle or protein layers. So what raises them? Aside from water; combing, brushing, braiding, twisting, heat, locking, relaxing, coloring, and wearing fabrics on your hair that absorbs moisture like cotton, and the likes are all that contributes to raised keratin, cuticle or protein layers. Basically, whenever we do any form of grooming our hair in any hair style we can think of, we compromise those layers by raising them. From washing it to weaving it; those layers will inevitably raise.

So why are hairstylists calling it dry hair? Why are they suggesting moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, treatments and styling agents? Ignorance and money. Ahh, but you knew I was gonna type that. See, most hair stylists are simply not trained enough to understand hair. The varying hair textures and types require different types of cleansing and conditioning agents. Not all hair types require a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Hair care products are formulated for hair types and textures. Some textures need moisture and some do not. They are mostly trained and certified by schools and hair care companies who want their money like they want my money and yours. The manufacturers have to tap into our emotions and our association with things to get us spend our all mighty dollars with their brand. And what easier way to get our money than to tap into anything that makes you feel good, even if it doesn't work? "Holy smokes and gee whiz," that's what I said!

If all hair stylists were educated, trained and licensed to understand hair and the chemistry of these hair care products and ingredients, the eb, and flow of selling what is needed to customers would flow right along with happiness and profits.

By now you should be ready to take action and be in charge of your purchasing power. You have the right information. Now, what is your actual resolve to those raised layers that leaves hair feeling rough, tangled, nappy, brittle, gritty hair that is dull, snaps and breaks? 

Eat your way to healthy hair.

The answer is protein. "Whatchu talkin' bout Dosha?" I am well aware of people's hatred of protein. But for the record, humans are lean mean protein-making machines. Without those 23 amino acids, our building blocks to life will come crashing down. We not only need the 23 amino acid in our diet for our bodies, they are equally important in hair care. So, what you want to do is first eat your way to your protein. Then purchase products that have protein in them. The best and most effective proteins are going to be your soy, wheat, quinoa, crystal quartz, natural clays from the earth such as bentonite clay and of course keratin. The molecular weight of these ingredients is tiny enough to be absorbed into the hair via those keratin, cuticle or protein layers. Heavier protein molecules from eggs, mayonnaise, and heavy oils take longer for the hair to absorb. Manmade, hydrolyzed or synthetic proteins will suffice. There are many others, but those work best, they are easier to access and are affordable. In addition, moisture binding ingredients for those who wear their textured hair work best to keep the keratin, cuticle or protein layers sealed. For example, aloe vera gel, alpha-hydroxy acids (from fruits), egg yolk, glycerine, honey or molasses to name a few. For those who wear their hair straight or heat styled, use products that have anti-humectants in them. Anti-humectants ward off moisture and keep your straight, silk press or heat styled hair from reverting. Again, remember to drink plenty of water and eat protein rich foods. Annette Hollimon, Wholistic Practioner and Reiki Master of Forever Phoenix located in South Euclid, Ohio recommends that you drink half your weight in ounces to achieve proper hydration. She also recommends getting your protein from whole foods and fresh vegetables. 

Lastly, understand, that hair feels better and readily absorbs the benefits from any ingredient, be it natural, organic or synthetic when it is clean. Therefore, be sure your hair is clean to reap the benefits of whatever you will be using on your hair. The longer you go without cleaning your hair and using the now trending co-wash option to care for your hair, the more those layers will remain raised. The longer the layers remain raised your hair will become more compromised. Also, your hair care will be more expensive.

As for the deliberate attempt to dupe consumers on what moisturizing hair is all about, I hope you find this blog informative and helpful. Share it with your friends. Make it a part of your group discussion. Teach your children about this as well. And the next time a hair stylist or someone suggests a moisturizing treatment of any sort for your hair, tell 'em...

"Aww, dry up!"

Summer Madness

You better not wet my hair!

I once came across a summer quote: "An ocean breeze puts the mind at ease." Well, it sounds pleasant, nice and relaxing, but whoever came up with that phrase was certainly unaware of just how many people are hesitant about savoring the rays of the summer sun and taking a dip in the ocean or pool all because of their hair!

Nat King Cole crooned it best in his song, “Those Lazy-Hazy-Crazy Days of Summer,” a time when people look forward to doing everything or nothing, all in the name of fun and relaxation. For many, it is a time to travel. It is also a good time to finally finish that book you have been reading, catch up on old movies, visit family, work on other projects or sit on the porch with a tall glass of lemonade or sweet tea as you curse winter. Summer usually find us throwing caution to the wind, going for some spice in our life or simply chillin’. I always say, people who take after the legendary hip hop artists, MC Lyte, Milk Dee and Giz like to chill! 

Yes, summertime is good and the living is easy, but not if you have to continuously stress about your hair. When people who are hair obsessed realize summer is fast approaching, they begin to make all kinds of commitments and plans on how this summer will be different. They come up with new rituals for their summer hair care routine. Of course, they want to have all the summer fun they can squeeze in, but fritting and fretting about their hair always seems to be a heavy cost they have to pay. Between the heat and the thought of having to go near water, people (especially women) are consumed with outright fear. For them, the very thought of having their hair in the summer heat or even in water will have them turning into Gizmo from the 1984 fantasy horror movie, Gremlins.

What is it about the summer heat and the water that scares these "Gizmo Scared Haired" people? Well, whether you recall the movie Gremlins or not, here is a little trivia. In the movie, the Gremlins were all very nice and sweet. But, there are three key things you can never do to a Gremlin. One: They cannot be in sunlight or hot lights. Two: Water for Gremlins is absolutely, positively out of the question and Three: Gremlins can have no food after midnight. Hmm, sound, familiar? Minus the no feeding after midnight part, the "Gizmo Scared Haired" people have numbers one and two in common with the Gremlins. Two out of three is not bad. So…I affectionately name people who are afraid of the sun and water during the dog days of summer after the main Gremlin character: Gizmo.

Listen up my "Gizmo Scared Haired" people! There is no need to fear the heat of the sun, or any light for that matter, when it comes to your hair. The sun is actually extremely good for hair. YES, I said that! Of course, basking in the sun does come with precautions.

Now, what are a few ways you can turn your hair into "sun friendly hair?”  Easy. The first thing is to know your hair. Then, know you, know your time, know your budget and know what makes you feel confident. 

For many, the sun poses a threat because the heat that emanates from the sun can wreak havoc on

hair, its color, style, texture and scalp. The easy resolve to contend with sun on your hair is to:

▪           Use a small amount of sunscreen on your hair and scalp.

▪           Wear a hat to protect your scalp and hair color.

▪           When wearing your wash-n-wear style, ditch the diffuser and allow the sun to dry your

curls, kinks, waves or Afro naturally. When prepped right, your hair will glisten. 

▪           For wash-n-wear hair styles, use an ample amount of your favorite styling agent to help form texture and hold the style.

▪           Leave-In Conditioners infused with proteins made of keratin, soy, wheat or quinoa ensures your hair texture will remain intact.

▪           Be sure to use the right comb. The wider the teeth on the comb, the more microscopic tears you will have in the individual strands of your hair, thus making your hair more susceptible to sun damage.

Next up for the "Gizmo Hair Scared" people is water. The first thing I want to do is assure you that you will not turn into Gizmo or a Gremlin if you get your hair wet. I also want to say for those of you who travel abroad to exotic waters, oceans, seas, lakes, private beaches and what not…please get your hair wet. You should not deny the dominant connection of your hair, scalp, body and spirit to its home—Mother Earth/Nature.

Here are the reasons why:

▪           Water from the ocean/sea is very purifying for hair and skin. 

▪           Water from the ocean/sea detoxes hair and skin.

▪           Water from the ocean/sea is rich in vitamins and minerals.

▪           Regular shampoo easily washes away the salt and residue from hair.

▪           A vinegar and water mix neutralizes mineral (salt) deposits left behind in minutes.

▪           Dipping your hair into the water feels amazing.

If you are concerned about the manageability of your hair upon getting it wet, here a few things you can do to reduce the likelihood of tangled "Gizmo Scary Hair."

▪           Braid your hair to keep it from matting.

▪           Wet your hair with tap water FIRST before getting into any body of water. Hair can only 

absorb one chemical at a time. Since tap water also has minerals, it will deposit those minerals into the hair thus reducing the likelihood of absorbing even more minerals from the ocean/sea water.

▪           Using a leave in conditioner with the right comb ensures "ouch-free" combing for Gizmo people.

Milk to the left and Giz to the right
"Top Billin'"

As you can see, the summer madness in hair care is fueled by lack of preparation and anxiety. Don't let the summer drive you mad about your hair. Like the Gremlins, all you have to do is take a few precautions before getting into the sunlight and water. If you proceed with caution, there is nothing to fear. Be wise when it comes to your hair. Be prepared. Have your hair necessities with you wherever you go. Remember: No one has hair like you. Your hair is like your fingerprint: no one else can match it. When you accept your hair’s unique fabric and do what the fabric calls for, you will be happy like the other Giz....chillin' and top billin'!  

Growing Hair

"I see the bad moon rising," a popular song from back in the 60's that was sung by Credence Clearwater Revival. It is also the first song that comes to my mind whenever I hear anything about the moon and whenever I see the moon rising. 

Anthony Morrocco is the Master Hair Shaman who
developed this Lunar Chart to aid in hair care and
hair growth.

The moon is mystic and magical. It pretty much captures you whenever you look at it. It does some amazing things. For example, it changes colors, it makes the waves rise and fall. It helps the crops grow, it acts as an indicator for becoming pregnant and it even helps your hair grow. Yep, that moon is bad; bad to the bone. 

In spite of its splendor and beauty, many people underestimate the moon. Many do not understand the moon and its influence on the human body. Since the beginning of time, mankind has used the moon to their advantage to do things that are humanly impossible. How does the moon, that is way up in the sky, have the ability to impact and influence what is going on in the ground, in the water and in our bodies?

Simple, it is the gravitational to and fro pull from the moon that shifts, moves, lifts, lowers and stirs what truly makes the world go round; life force. The moon has mystical powers to help what we put into the ground to feed the masses of people worldwide, possible to grow. In humans, the moon is responsible for increased blood flow, decreased blood flow and hormonal activity; all of which are directly related to our physical and mental health. 

"Hmmm," ye say? Yes, the moon is really bad, a b-b-b bad to the bone! It is amazing how it works. It is interesting how we can utilize the force of the moon to aid in improving or maintaining our physical health. The human body is 75% water. The theory is, just as the moon's gravitational pull affects the water here on earth, it also affects the water inside humans. 

Another theory behind the moon and it's effect on humans is how when women menstruate. In theory, the menstrual cycle in reproductive-age women lasts about 28 days, which is similar to the length of a lunar phase (29 days and change). In a  2011 study in the journal Acta Obstetricia et Gynecologica Scandinavica tracked the menstrual cycles of 826 women. The study showed how nearly 30% of the women started their menstruation near the time of the full moon. 

Going back in time. It was during some time in 1930, a prominent doctor named, John Billings developed the "Rhythm Method." This was a form of natural birth control for those whose religion forbid them to take any form of synthetic or manmade birth control to prevent unwanted pregnancy. The concept around the "Rhythm Method" was directly related to when a woman ovulates, her body temperature and the moon. While it very intricate, many women incorporated this practice into their scope of "fertility awareness." In brief, the "Rhythm Method" suggests that up to 12 days before a woman menstruates, ovaries begin to ovulate as she becomes more fertile, her body temperature rises as she becomes physically ready (or horny...lol) for relations with the intent to conceive. If she does not want to become pregnant, then she should refrain from sexual activity during this time. 

Keep in mind, the theory about the concept of the moon and it's effect on the human body is just that a theory. However, it is a theory that many, including, myself believe because I personally experience them and I witness the theory in live action during my line of work daily. 

If you want to grow your hair, adjust your hair care to be in sync with the moon for optimal results. In theory, as the moon waxes or becomes full, there is an increase in blood flow and hormonal activity. Blood flow is responsible for nourishing your hair. The hormonal activity of testosterone is directly responsible for growing your hair. So cut your hair when the moon is waxing because increased blood flow and hormonal activity will grow the hair back faster.

Hormonal Activity

In the instance of not wanting to promote hair growth as a result of shaving, waxing, hair coloring and the likes, perform these grooming activities during the waning of the moon. It is during the waning of the moon when blood flow and hormonal activity slows. Therefore, shaving, waxing and having your hair colored during the waning phase of the moon would result in longer lasting results because in theory the hair is growing slower.

So, rather you want to maintain your mental health, become pregnant or grow your hair; the waxing (growing full) and waning (becoming small) of the moon might be where you want to turn your attention to achieve them all. 

Growing your hair and having it healthy does not have to be difficult or expensive. While this is a theory, you have to admit, it does give you something to think about. The practice of infrequent shampooing and never cutting your hair will not give you the result of strong hair. Of course, your hair will grow rather you cut it under a full moon or not. The concept behind lunar hair care is optimal RESULTS. If you want to see the results of hair care, then incorporate lunar hair care into your scope of hair care for improved results. 

A good regimen to follow to promote growth and see the results within a year is to incorporate these steps:

Picture your hair like this as you shampoo and style it.
Don't look at those images on social media and YouTube;
they will trick you...lol

• Pre-clean your scalp with Decca Plus' Scalp Therapy or 2 oz of EVO (extra virgin olive oil) infused with 5 drops of peppermint oil.
• Apply the night before and massage vigorously to detox the follicle (the tiny hole your hair grows from).  
• Shampoo hair every 3-4 days fine less dense heads of hair
• Shampoo hair every 4-6 days medium to medium dense heads of hair
• Shampoo hair every 5-7 days medium to thick dense heads of hair
• REPEAT and lather hair at least 2-3 times
• Apply conditioner to ENDS of hair first. Do not apply conditioner to scalp area first. Doing so will clog follicle and prevent hair from growing from it.
• Comb conditioner through.
• Apply Extreme Daily Protein Treatment by Philip Pelusi. It is one of the best protein treaments that does NOT coat the hair. Instead, the molecules are tiny enough to be absorbed to the cortex (where the strenght of the hair is) to revitalize weak hair and rebuild the cuticle (outer layer of hair). 
• Let it stay on the hair for at least 3 minutes.
• Rinse hair thoroughly in warm water.
• Apply a leave in conditioner.
• Apply favorite water soluble styling agent.
• Style your hair to your desire.

Remember to refer to Anthony Morrocco's lunar hair chart to schedule your hair cuts quarterly. 

Now you too will be singing, "I see the bad moon rising" as you care for your hair!

When Moist is the Choice

Finally, the blog of the year is here, "Moisture and hair." There are not a many of folk who have curly, wavy, kinky, Afro or a combination of textures who do not want to approach the "Hair Sage," the "Dali Lama of Hair,"  the "Guru of Hair," the "Hair Shaman," or the "Hair god" with the greatest question of them all for their textured tresses, "How do I keep my hair moist?" 

How wavy hair
looks when
the saline and hydrophobic bonds are
re-arranged on hair.

I call this the blog of the year, about hair that is, because upon every consultation with every person who has curly, wavy, kinky, Afro or a combination of textures; they all ask me about what can be done to make their hair feel moist. They want to know, why does their hair feel dry? They want to know, why do they feel those little tiny brittle knots on the ends of their hair? They want to know, how come it doesn't shine? They want to know, why does it poof? They want to know, why does it draw up? They want to know, how come when it is wet it looks pretty but when it is dry it looks dull frizzy and ugly? They want to know, why when they put products their textured tresses, it absorbs all of the product like a sponge? They want to know, "How can I keep my textured hair moist?"

So, I will answer all those questions in order as simple as I can in my R.Kelly voice. Microphone please, "Well, I'm not trying to rude, but hey pretty girl I'm feeling you.." That whole moist hair thing is something of an enigma for many with textured hair. Coming from one Afro wavy textured hair person to another with textured hair; it ain't happening. There. I got it out. 

Mr. Chris McClain,
CEO/President
of Advance Beauty Inc.
who also owns the
highly favored hair
care products for
textured tresses
CANTU

Now again, I am not trying to be rude and people, I am feeling you. But I have to tell you. This is all a marketing scheme developed by people who are simply responding to what the consumer is demanding in hair care. Like a drug dealer. If a cheap high is what folk are after, then they will come
up with a product to meet the demand of a cheap high. Those who are in the business of hustling drugs for cash will deliver to all who demand it. The exact can be said for the hair care industry. I know it is hard to fathom, but it is true. What do the hair companies really care about your hair? It is the money they are after. Since "moist natural hair" is the new thing and people are now anti chemicals, as a person of interest in making money; they go and invest in what the masses are asking for. The transitioning movement is televised. The transitioning movement is real and it it coming to you live and direct. The people with the money to invest are listening. They are responding. Now here is the TBH, most  owners of hair companies who make products for people with textured hair do not even have textured hair themselves. Not that it matters, but it sure would help. In addition, nor are they licensed dermatologists or cosmetologists or even chemists for that matter. Case and point, not take away anything from Mr. Chris McClain, CEO and president of Advanced Beauty Inc. out of Dallas, Texas who holds his degree in BAA, Marketing (Bachelors of Applied Arts and Sciences) in Marketing doesn't have a lick of curl. wave, kink or for in his hair (well maybe a little wave or curl), yet he is yo pusha man. He is that brotha in the alley, givin you what you need...

Yo pusha man!

Now do not go all Black power on me, it's strictly business never personal. Do not get mad at Mr. McClain. He is simply doing his job. 

And, before I answer each of those questions in order, I will turn to who I will identify as "My Partners in Hair Care," L'Oreal. No they are not legally my partners and no, they are not all organic and junk but they care. They are vested in hair; textured or not. They have been for umpteen years. I invite all to click on the link at the end of this blog, and go on the journey of hair via their website and you too will experience why I  personally and professionally call them, "My partners in hair care." I'm not saying Mr. McClain does not have the knowledge or experience of L'Oreal but-ter-umm, well just go Advanced Beauty Inc web sit then go to L'Oreals.

"So baby gimme that toot toot.." Here we go, what they don't tell you at the hair salon or the beauty supply store is that it is the structure of the hair's protein that allows it to take on many shapes from curly, kinky, wavy, straight, Afro, crimps, straight, locks, braids, curls,  Jheri curls, spiral curls, tight curls, lose curls, flips, spikes, waves, finger waves, pineapple waves and the likes. 

My partners in hair care, L'Oreal!

So what gives hair its ability to manipulate into those varying shapes? Their hydrogen bonds. One is saline (hardens) and the other is hydrophobic (pliable). Those two bonds are so weak, it doesn't take much to manipulate them. "Water and even dampness can change the state of the bonds" per L'Oreal. It is water  in its many forms that causes hair to appear in the form of poof, frizzy, curls that have fallen, reverting and converting hair. Water in its many forms will not only make hair look different; it will result in the hair feeling different as well.  Your hair will feel different because the water, steam, dampness, HEAT or MOISTURE will have disrupted those bonds, moved them around to change the state of your textured tresses into the NEW SHAPE as a result of it's contact with MOISTURE. 

There is no need to fret because remember those bonds can be shaped or rearranged deliberately, by accident or an act of God (rain, mist, sweat...) and the hair will take on a new shape per the source MOISTURE use to manipulate them. It is only in the case of chemically altering or exposing the strongest bonds (disulphide) to extreme abuse can you permanently alter the texture (curly, wavy, kinky, Afro or straight) into a new pattern or texture.  "Let me get a beep, beep!"

How wavy hair looks when you
use heat from flat irons to
re-arrange saline and
hydrophobic bonds. Who gone
check me boo!

So now you can see why the ability have moist wet feeling hair all the time is probably not the state you want your textured tresses to be in. Also, you can see how heat is not bad for hair because those two hydrogen bonds are only temporarily responding and taking on its new shape per the source of moisture (water, dampness, steam, mist or heat) applied to it. And that only in the case of chemicals and extreme exposure to any forms of that moisture can we permanently alter the natural texture (curly, wavy, kinky, Afro, straight or combination) of our hair. 

Now, I will answer those questions in order.

1. How to make hair moist?

You wet it. But understand, that extreme exposure to moisture (water, dampness, steam, mist or heat) in any form will permanently alter the texture of your hair. That does not mean you can not put heat on your textured tresses. It means too much can permanently damage hair.

2. Why does my hair feel dry?

Because it is. Trying to make textured tresses feel moist is like always trying to make a leaf feel wet or concrete smooth. Texture hair is suppose feel textured and gritty just like leaf and concrete. To change it's state would be to expose it to extreme change in temperatures i.e the change of seasons or asphalt.

3. Why do I feel those little brittle knots in my hair especially on the ends?

A microscopic view of knotted or beaded hair. Also
known as Trichorrhexis Nodosa. Not Ladosha!

Again, if you are using products that are water based, it is the water in those products that are doing what? Arranging the hydrogen bonds. Affecting that outer most layer called keratin or cuticle causing them to knot up. That now becomes a hair disorder called, TRICHORRHEXIS NODOSA ( a problem when thickened or weak points/nodes along the hair shaft causes your hair to break easily). See, now you gotta go and pay your hairstylist or go back to the supply store and spend more money. Now do you believe me? There is a profit design in ALL of this. Either the person who is doing your hair, making the products for your textured hair or is selling the products for your textured hair do not know their hair science or they are simply selling you the hair science of hair that YOU DO NOT KNOW. Either way, you are being played like a piano. I don't do that. 

While water is natural, it also can be very damaging to hair; when? When you use it in extreme forms, again; it not only rearranges those two hydrogen bonds but now they are affecting the disulphide bonds which are the strongest of the three. To reiterate, when those disulphide bonds are arranged, permanent change in the structure of the hair is almost always the result. So if it is moist hair that you are truly after; drink it. Don't apply it. 

How textured hair looks when too
much moisture is applied to the
saline and hydrophobic bonds. 

Refrain from using products that are water base, where water is the first ingredient. Perhaps Aloe, glycerin, cetaryl alcohol which is a fatty oil derived from coconut people; not denatured. Also, oil based products are a great alternative. As the oil will act as a barrier, preventing the hair from taking on a new shape as it dries. Another great thing to do do it to go buy some litmus paper from the pharmacy to check the pH on those products. Yes, the organic and natural products too. If the pH is 7, so is what? Water. That means that product will be too drying for your textured tresses. Your hair will feel naturally taught, brittle and dry. I am not saying those products are bad. I am saying for textured tresses; they may be a tad bit too drying. A pH of about 5-6 would be ideal for a styling agent for textured hair! 

4. How come my textured hair doesn't shine?

Read number 2. In addition, because the hair is coiled, it simply does not reflect the light as well as if the hair was smooth and straight. Nothing more and nothing less. So do not go adding more product. Coloring your hair darker may help with the appearance thus making it look more shiny.

5. Why does my hair poof?

Re-read number 1.

6. Why does my hair draw up?

Again, re-read number 1. Understand that hair is skin. Hair like skin, climatizes. That means the skin and hair will adjust and take form to the climate/temperature it is exposed to. For example. if you go outside in the cold; what will your skin do? Constrict and draw up. You can feel your hands tighten. So will your hair, when it is wet and it becomes exposed to the drying air. If you go into moist steamy atmosphere, what will your skin do? Become moist, clammy and sweaty. So will your hair. It is your skin's natural response to the climate. If you don't want your skin to become clammy, sweaty and moist; you would use a ANTIPERSPIRANT.  And if you do not want your hair to frizz, you should use an ANTI HUMECTANT or DEFRISANT. Or oil! Yep oil and water do not mix.

7. How come when my hair is wet, it looks pretty but when it is dry it looks dull frizzy and ugly?

Re-read number 6.

8. How come when I put products on my textured tresses, it absorbs all of the product like a sponge?

Who ever said hair is dead, is why we ask these types of questions. Hair is dead in the sense that is has no nerve endings. When we cut it, we can not feel it; nor does it bleed. Yet,  hair has the innate ability to open and close via the cuticle (keratin) layers. Anything that open and closes; expands and swells and absorbs is very much alive.That is how we change its shape temporarily as this blog is highlighting or chemically alter it's shape, color and texture. If hair was dead, trust and believe none of this would occur. I have serviced enough people who have transitioned to know what I am talking about. Ask any mortician if you can chemically alter hair and they will tell you...no. Hair is very much alive, that is why it is absorbing what you put on it. The more you put on it, the more you are doing what? Arranging those bonds. The constant application of hair products is constantly rearranging those bonds and the hair is simply doing what is designed to to when it is constantly exposed to water; absorb it. Nothing more. nothing less.

9. Again they want to know, how can I keep my textured hair moist?

Wet it or drink water.

Drink plenty of water.

Please go on this hair journey with my partners in hair care and I at:
www.hair-science.com 

"Running yo hands through my fro..."