What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon: The 4C's of 4C Hair

Understanding 4c hair is something of an enigma for the masses. Shrouded in mystery, hidden in confusion, shamed by millions, categorized by cliques; yet protected by law, coily hair remains misunderstood and misguided.

The biggest misnomer in textured hair is the attempt to classify it. Currently there are three hair classification systems that are being used. The first and the original is the Hair Mapping System by Mr. Andre Walker, Oprah’s former hairstylist. Next on the scene is the L.O.I.S Scale System. This system uses letters to represent, capture or describe the various textures of hair. For example, L represents the bend in hair, O represents curly textures, I represent straight hair and S represents wavy textures. The N.K.O.T.B (new kid on the block) of hair classifying systems is FIA (not quite sure what it stands for). Basically, FIA Hair Mapping System is a combination of the Andre’s Hair Mapping System and the L.O.I.S System; but of course!

The misnomer of attempting to classify all human’s hair textures is like trying to classify the various colors, shapes, lengths and sizes of Poaceae (po-ay-cee), also known as grass. Dude, it ain’t gonna happen. For the record, Britannica’s encyclopedia estimates there are approximately 12,000 grass species that covers the 20% of land mass on the entire earth. And in that approximation of 12,000 grass species, 10, 000,000,000,000 blades of grass cover this 20% of earth’s land mass; thus, affording each individual human 418 million of grass blades who are still living. This amount changes drastically considering how much grass dies off and species become extinct. That goes to show you how unique hair truly is when using the grass comparison. Yes, it is that magnanimous!

Therefore, classifying any texture of hair is futile. Like grass, the best we can do is understand the various textures of found on human’s heads is to learn its science and care for it accordingly.

The science of hair on all humans is simple. Hair textures are genetically assigned. Our genetics are influenced by diet and environment. The color of person’s skin is about as good as a determinant of its textures as color is to the grass. Not gonna happen. Grass varies in colors just like human. Versus the Walker, L.O.I.S and FIA system to understanding hair textures, use the K.I.S.S principle. Keep it simple sweetie.

Due to the misunderstanding of textured hair, coily, kinky, nappy and Afro hair is catching the most flack. Liken to the brown paper bag test of the early to late 1900’s, hair mapping and typing has to go. With the exception of Andre Walker who created his system to help buyers navigate through his array of hair care products, the creators and users of the L.O.I.S and FIA hair mapping and typing systems is difficult to translate and use per the consumer, manufacturer, clinician, doctor, educator and hair stylist. These systems are not universally sound to humans with hair, humans who care for hair and humans who teach about hair. There is too much debate around Walker’s, L.O.I.S and FIA’s hair mapping and hair typing systems. Why? Because there is always someone who will say, “My hair does not fit into either of those hair classifying systems.”

So, to be universally sound to all who have hair and are involved with caring for hair, let’s take a play from taxonomists. Hair care is like grass (lawn) care. 4c now has a new meaning for humanity: culture, cleansing, conditioning and combing.

Culture: The culture of hair care pre-dates Christ. The culture of hair care is per the instructions, habits, lessons, styles, rules and understanding of the group of people who pass them to, across and down withing the family unit to community. Culture is key to understanding hair care and hair styles. Understanding culture is respecting hair. Understanding culture is key to introducing new hair care and hairstyling tip. Understanding culture is key to understanding the individual.

Cleansing: Cleansing Afro coily hair is best done by misting hair with water, apply conditioner and separate into approximately 4-6 sub-sections. Detangle each sub-section and pin down each section with a plastic clip. Apply shampoo to each sub-section, starting at the scalp working your way down the section WITHOUT tangling it. Rinse entire head with clips in. Do not remove the clips, to prevent hair from tangling.

Conditioning: Apply conditioner to each sub-section. Comb through thoroughly until hair combs easily. Rinse entire head with clips in. Do not remove the clips, to prevent hair form tangling.

Combing: Comb each sub-section from the scalp area down to the ends. Use a long tooth detangling comb. The wider the teeth on the comb, the less effective the detangling process. Squeeze sections tightly as you detangle to prevent sore scalp. Keep combing until all the tangles and snarls are gone. Add more conditioner and water to help loosen tangles and snarls. This process will take time.

Remember to braid Afro hair down at night to prevent hair from tangling during the night; thus, requiring the detangling process all over.

Classifying and categorizing hair does nothing to bring about a systemic effective resolve for all hair textures. There is nothing unique about hair care regardless the texture. However, there is something unique to the attitude, mindsets and teaching around hair texture. At best, the emotional backlash, misinformation and miseducation must be replaced with a universal scope of practice for all who have hair. The right product, the right tools and the right techniques suffices in theory and practice; as well as emotionally.

The video below gives you a visual on this user friendly process.