The Best Hair Moisturizer

Hands down, the number one complaint about hair is that it is too dry. All day every day, everywhere; someone is complaining about dry hair. In addition to complaining about dry hair, people also complain about the difficulty of finding the right product to remedy their dry tresses. They are in constant search for the perfect moisturizer. Oh, but the search becomes a tad bit tricky if one person's hair texture is different from the other. For example, those who have straight hair, are looking for something that will make their hair feel silky, more smooth, shine more and less likely to revert or frizz.  For those who have curly or Afro textures, they are looking for a moisturizer that will make their texture spring, coil, curl, wave while at the same time giving it some slip and actual moistness. Both hair types loathe the dry, frizzy, dull, and brittle feel to their textured hair. 

Well, guess what? The solution to dry hair, rather it is straight or textured, is NOT a topical moisturizer or moisturizing treatment of any sort! I know, sayings like, "Stawpitt Judy!" or "Whatchu talkin bout Willis,"  comes to mind, right? Yes, my wonderful hair junkies, knotty know it alls, natural knowers, textured Titans, and organic only's, moisturizers in the world of hair care ain't what they are pretending to be. Most products that claim to moisturize hair, do not. They simply coat the hair; thus making it literally dry.

But, why? How can that be? Read on before you click that mouse and search for more answers. You know the name of my blog is, "What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon," right? So let me tell you what they are not telling you at the hair salon. After you read this blog, you will have a clear understanding of what to do about your hair that you have been lead to believe is dry and is in need of moisture.  

Holy, smokes and gee whiz!

First, what they don't tell you at the hair salon about moisture and hair is that moisture for hair is an internal process. Properly moisturized hair only begins with a well-hydrated body. Before you purchase another bottle of moisturizing anything, I urge you to pick up a bottle of water or pour you a few cups and drink up. If you hate water, then your hair will truly be dry and no fancy moisturizer will help. 

Second, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that each fiber of hair consists of several outer layers that comprise of what we see (hair on our heads) with the naked eye called keratin. Another term for keratin is cuticle layer.  If you were to look at each strand of hair fibers under a microscope, those fibers would resemble fish scales or shingles on a roof. The objective to hair feeling, being manageable and looking a certain way is in direct association with that very tiny microscopic keratin or those cuticle layers. Also, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that those tiny scales or shingles must always lay flat in order for your hair (regardless the texture or

hairstyle) to feel and look nice. So, when you touch your hair and it feels brittle, gritty and frizzy, what you are actually feeling are those tiny microscopic scales that are raised. Because you are not aware that those keratin or cuticle layers are actually raised, your mind associates the feel of your hair with dryness. That is why the objective in hair care is to keep that tiny microscopic keratin or cuticle layers flat, not moist. If those layers are raised in any form, the result is hair that feels rough, gritty and brittle. Your hair will also tangle, mat and knot easily. From there, your hair will begin to snap and break. Then when you look at your shirt or in the sink or on the floor; all you will see are frayed fibers lying about. The next thing you know, you are running to the salon or beauty supply store in search of a moisturizer to stop what you think is dry hair from falling out. On the other hand, if you use products that actually 
coat and keep the hair physically damp, more breakage, musty smelling, and snapping is the result.

Third, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that 90% of all hair care products primary ingredient is water. When water comes into contact with hair, the result is buckled, swollen cracked, gritty, brittle and rough feeling hair. Just as water damages wood, fabrics, metals or skin; it does the same to hair. Initially, when anything is immersed in water it looks and feels great. Take a moment and think about how sexy you and your hair looks when wet. Place your clothes in water; notice the colors look so rich and moist. Now place your favorite flatware in water; it too looks amazingly more vibrant in color and shiny in appearance. Now step out the water or remove those items from the water. Next, allow them to air dry. How does your skin feel? How do your hair, face, and feet feel? What about your flatware? How do they look? Now touch them. Feel free to apply oil or some sort of shining finisher in the water or on your items. Hours later, touch your body, hair, face, feet, and items again. How do they feel? Still a somewhat rough, gritty and brittle, huh? 
Feel me? Yeah, buddy, that's how they getcha.

What they are not telling you at the hair salon is that you have been trained and taught to verbally express raised keratin or cuticle layers as dry hair. And since they really want more money, they have also trained you to believe that now your hair is damaged. Damaged hair, dry hair, brittle hair, color faded hair, dry relaxed hair, dull breaking locks, frizzy cornrow braids, tangled nappy hair, dry limp hair are all synonymous raised keratin or cuticle layers. 

Now for the kicker. And just as those words are synonymous with keratin and cuticle layers, so is protein! Shocking isn't it? Say it ain't so, you declare?

Don't believe me? Click on another link and read for yourself. 

Welcome back. Quite interesting isn't it? Keratin, cuticle layers, and protein all mean the same thing. Damn semantics. Semantics are the things I do not like about the "American English" language. They play too much with them words...LOL 

You are getting sleepy...

What you have been deliberately misled to believe is dry, tangled, knotty, nappy, frizzy, dull, weak and damaged hair is actually raised keratin, cuticle or protein layers. So what raises them? Aside from water; combing, brushing, braiding, twisting, heat, locking, relaxing, coloring, and wearing fabrics on your hair that absorbs moisture like cotton, and the likes are all that contributes to raised keratin, cuticle or protein layers. Basically, whenever we do any form of grooming our hair in any hair style we can think of, we compromise those layers by raising them. From washing it to weaving it; those layers will inevitably raise.

So why are hairstylists calling it dry hair? Why are they suggesting moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, treatments and styling agents? Ignorance and money. Ahh, but you knew I was gonna type that. See, most hair stylists are simply not trained enough to understand hair. The varying hair textures and types require different types of cleansing and conditioning agents. Not all hair types require a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Hair care products are formulated for hair types and textures. Some textures need moisture and some do not. They are mostly trained and certified by schools and hair care companies who want their money like they want my money and yours. The manufacturers have to tap into our emotions and our association with things to get us spend our all mighty dollars with their brand. And what easier way to get our money than to tap into anything that makes you feel good, even if it doesn't work? "Holy smokes and gee whiz," that's what I said!

If all hair stylists were educated, trained and licensed to understand hair and the chemistry of these hair care products and ingredients, the eb, and flow of selling what is needed to customers would flow right along with happiness and profits.

By now you should be ready to take action and be in charge of your purchasing power. You have the right information. Now, what is your actual resolve to those raised layers that leaves hair feeling rough, tangled, nappy, brittle, gritty hair that is dull, snaps and breaks? 

Eat your way to healthy hair.

The answer is protein. "Whatchu talkin' bout Dosha?" I am well aware of people's hatred of protein. But for the record, humans are lean mean protein-making machines. Without those 23 amino acids, our building blocks to life will come crashing down. We not only need the 23 amino acid in our diet for our bodies, they are equally important in hair care. So, what you want to do is first eat your way to your protein. Then purchase products that have protein in them. The best and most effective proteins are going to be your soy, wheat, quinoa, crystal quartz, natural clays from the earth such as bentonite clay and of course keratin. The molecular weight of these ingredients is tiny enough to be absorbed into the hair via those keratin, cuticle or protein layers. Heavier protein molecules from eggs, mayonnaise, and heavy oils take longer for the hair to absorb. Manmade, hydrolyzed or synthetic proteins will suffice. There are many others, but those work best, they are easier to access and are affordable. In addition, moisture binding ingredients for those who wear their textured hair work best to keep the keratin, cuticle or protein layers sealed. For example, aloe vera gel, alpha-hydroxy acids (from fruits), egg yolk, glycerine, honey or molasses to name a few. For those who wear their hair straight or heat styled, use products that have anti-humectants in them. Anti-humectants ward off moisture and keep your straight, silk press or heat styled hair from reverting. Again, remember to drink plenty of water and eat protein rich foods. Annette Hollimon, Wholistic Practioner and Reiki Master of Forever Phoenix located in South Euclid, Ohio recommends that you drink half your weight in ounces to achieve proper hydration. She also recommends getting your protein from whole foods and fresh vegetables. 

Lastly, understand, that hair feels better and readily absorbs the benefits from any ingredient, be it natural, organic or synthetic when it is clean. Therefore, be sure your hair is clean to reap the benefits of whatever you will be using on your hair. The longer you go without cleaning your hair and using the now trending co-wash option to care for your hair, the more those layers will remain raised. The longer the layers remain raised your hair will become more compromised. Also, your hair care will be more expensive.

As for the deliberate attempt to dupe consumers on what moisturizing hair is all about, I hope you find this blog informative and helpful. Share it with your friends. Make it a part of your group discussion. Teach your children about this as well. And the next time a hair stylist or someone suggests a moisturizing treatment of any sort for your hair, tell 'em...

"Aww, dry up!"

Herbal Shampoos

Here we go again. Shampoos. Shampoo is one of those words in the hair care industry that I wish they would change. 

Have you ever heard the expression, "Hair is to be shampooed not washed?" In my opinion, people who use that statement or support that school of thought have no clue of how discern shampooing from washing. For the amount of heavy products, infrequent practice of shampooing and what the scalp naturally emits, washing is truly a better verb to use to teach people how to clean their scalp and hair. But, since shampoo is the proper term, let us investigate it!

Sometime during 5000 BC, the Egyptians were using all sorts of herbs, oils and tinctures to apply to hair and scalp for cleansing and beautification. That wasn't working to well due to some little tiny life forces called micro organisms. Mircro organisms resulted in scalp issues, hair bugs of lice and mice that promoted the invention and wearing of wigs. Soon, the invasion of Egypt changed things.During the same time, the Babylonians had their own methods of beautification. The Chinese method of champing was common. Champing is a massage technique using fingers, thumbs and knuckles to massage the entire body. 

During that time an Indian military soldier named Dean Mohamet observed this technique of champing during his military travels working for the elite. After the war, Dean Mohamet became unemployed. He decided to use the art of Champing, now termed Champu to provide body cleansing and massage services for Hindi sultans and nabobs. Tired of the champu technique being exclusively provided to the wealthy, he ventured away from servicing the wealthy and added soap to his champing technique to service everyday people. After being practiced in England for such long time, in 1860 champu spelling was changed to shampoo. Then it was officially recorded and entered into the dictionary as "the soap used for cleansing hair."

Later in 1908 Hans Schwarkzkopf (yes, the maker of the professional hair color) developed a powder to clean hair because he disliked soap and the film it left behind on hair. To promote his new found invention, he took an article out in the New York Times titled, "How to Shampoo Your Hair." It was an instant success. 

Not be outdone by a German, an American doctor, Dr. John Breck (yep, of the Breck girls commercials) invented the first pH shampoo, thus making the experience of shampooing hair more gentle to the touch and less tangles in the hair. 

So, now we are in the new millennium and shampoo is just now making a turn around the corner to be in the spot of hair care where it should be....from the hands, to the hair and back to the hands again!

The shampoos of today gets its the force to make the curve from its ingredients. The force of the ingredients are herbs. What are herbs? Botanists describe an herb as a small, seed bearing plant with fleshy, rather than woody, parts (from which we get the term "herbaceous").   In addition to herbaceous perennials, herbs include trees, shrubs, annuals, vines, and more primitive plants, such as ferns, mosses, algae, lichens, and fungi. So now we see herbs are the good stuff. 

What makes herbs good? Nutrient bioavailability is what makes the herb worth its weight on a shelf in your salon or shower caddy in your bathroom. So what exactly is bioavailability?Bioavailability in hair care is very similar to the process of it when consuming food. The difference is when the product comes into contact with the scalp and where the those vital nutrients from the herbs and essential oils go. For example, when you apply the shampoo to your hands the ingredients are absorbed into your skin. Next you apply it to the customers scalp and the nutrients contained in the shampoo are released from the matrix of the herbs or and essential oil, absorbed into the bloodstream and transported to their respective target tissues. In this case the target tissue would be the, papilla. Bam!

Come on now Aveda, Aryuvedic is a BELIEF in the balance
of mind, body and spirit. Not long volumizing hair. 

However, not all nutrients can be utilized to the same extent. In other words, they differ in their bioavailability. So, the first step in making a nutrient bioavailable is to liberate it from the herb (which is a food too) matrix and turn it into a chemical form that can bind to and enter the follicles (that are on your scalp where the hairs on your head grows from) cells or pass between them and work their magic. 

The question is; does your shampoo do that? Probably not. 

Do not be duped by products claiming to be organic, natural, for natural hair, for women of color, for Black women and for ethnic hair. Those terms mean nothing in the world of bioavailabiity. Bioavailability is how your hair, scalp and other organs receive or not receive what is intended to improve or maintain the health of your hair. 

Not even owned by an African,
let alone has herbs in it. 

Herbal shampoos that tout SLS-Free, Sulfate Free, Petroleum Free, Mineral Oil Free, Vegan, Gluten Free, No Animal Testing, Paraben Free are simply buzz and trending works marketing companies use to promote their client's shampoo.

Instead, look for buzz words in the ingredients or pamphlets that include words like nutraceuticals, enyzmatic activity, bioavailability, absorption, USP (United States Pharmacopeia),follicle care to name a few to spike your interest to grab the bottle, click the mouse or press your finger. 

Herbal shampoos that actually include herbs, essential oils, fruits, vegetables, vitamins and proteins will suffice when coupled with some of the buzz word used above. 

While the word "organic" gets people all warm and fuzzy inside; buyer beware. The results are more often anti-climactic for the masses. Understand that the term "organic" is a term for agriculture not hair care. Organic is all how about how. To know the efficacy of what is organic in you shampoo, look for seals from such caring agencies who test the efficacy of what is supposed to be organic. Agencies such as Ecocert and ICEA (International per la Certificazione Etic de Ambientale) have websites that provide links to hair care companies who they have certified. 

Make your next purchase via ICEA.

The Reverence Design Team Hair Salon located in Cleveland Heights, Ohio prides itself as one of the many salons worldwide who uses USDA Organic, Ecocert and ICEA certified shampoos, conditioners, proteins on their clients' hair as well as a salon who retails soaps, lotions, body butters, deodorants and toothpaste. 

How's that for herbal shampoos.  

Ridculousness

Is it me, but is there something about the "natural" hair phenomena that makes you go hmmm? Going "natural" with hair to me is like going "natural" with race. In both instances, you are already natural. Just because you alter them doesn't mean they are not natural. It simply means they are altered. And that is the natural beauty of the varying hair textures and skin complexions. You can alter both. You can alter them topically, chemically, surgically, permanently, temporarily, organically and naturally. You can alter your hair and skin color any way you like for any reason you want. For some reason, there are people who like to make people feel some kind of way about altering their hair. Regardless the method. When a person does something another person doesn't like we use words to express it. And one way we use the words are via semantics. Americans are good with semantics; we love wordplay. For example, there are individuals who are playing with the word "natural." They are using the word with hair and is taking "natural" hair to places it should never go. 

In my professional and personal opinion, "natural" hair care should never go to ridiculousness. Just a few weeks ago, I wrote a blog about the crazy "natural" things people do to their hair. I actually thought I was blogging about something. Just when I thought I touched on a topic and covered its bases, another interestingly ridiculous "natural" hair care phenomena had spewed from the mind of an individual into the homes, salons, and typed into the search bars of millions of computers world wide. What ridculous "natural" hair craze am I referring to? In the words of one my favorite hip hop groups, Stesasonic; "Brace yourself for the ultimate rare!" 


The latest ridiculous "natural" hair care craze that is spreading like the Ebola virus is the use of Monistat Vaginal Cream. Yes, there is one person who is responsible for this ridiculous non medically proven ignorant concept and practice as they tout it as "natural' hair care. You are reading that sentence correctly. Monistat Vaginal Cream is being touted as a "natural" alternative stimulant that can promote hair growth. How? Well what I've read is that, due to the anti-fungal ingredient in Monistat called ketoconazole, it is supposed to help your hair grow. There is a theory that the Ketoconazole ingredient supposedly can act as an interceptor to a gene that lies deep down inside the walls of the follicle that causes hair to thin or not grow at all. The follicle is the tiny hole that hair grows from. In theory, the ketoconazole in turn lets some of the hair grow in pretty fast because it blocks those gene receptors in the follicle from receiving the signal to not grow. There is nothing "natural" about applying Monistat Vaginal Cream to your scalp to act as an interceptor to a gene that makes hair thin or not grow because the makers of Monistat Vaginal Cream has NOT said so. While it may not be natural, it is ridiculous.

Monistat Vaginal Cream is suppose to block the thinning hair gene
from receiving the message to shrink and thin or not grow.
Yeah right.

But wait, there's more! Oh yes, my dear readers and fellow hair care junkies, there's more. The other ridiculous "natural" hair phenomena that is not cleaning hair is called; water wash.  What is this, again, you ask? I don't know. But, to me, "water wash" is very close to a oxymoron. I mean water is not a verb.  It is a noun. You know; a person, place or thing. Right? And isn't water a odorless, tastless clear liquid that is the basis of the fluids for all living ORGANISMS (microganisms are organisms). And isn't wash a verb that uses water and soap/detergent to clean? IJS (I'm just saying).

Now, don't go getting your hair into a bunch. According to what I watched on YOUTUBE, the "water wash" method is a simple technique of "washing" you hair with water with the intent to redistribute the sebum (scalp oil) oil from the scalp throughout your hair using water and hands only. NO COMB. Never mind the fact that your hand can absorb water and oil. Now, how is this "natural" redistributing of sebum oil works is weird science to me? The concept is being highly recommended by these ordinary people as an alternative for those who have sensitivities to shampoos, those who have textured hair but is low in density (number of hair fibers per cubic inch) and for those who want to maintain or improve the texture of their curly, kinky, wavy or Afro tresses. Now these people in these video; I don't know readers, but they are some dirty haired ladies instructing ordinarily sane clean haired women to do some insane stuff to their hair. Now that is not the word I really want to use, but I digress. Again washing implies the use of water and soap. So the term "water wash" makes me feel all foo foo frilly on the inside.

Something about this image reminds me of rinsing and
not washing.

Now in both cases, I must say my gut reaction was, "How ridiculous!" After my research, I am now yelling as loud as I can, "How ridiculous!" As a cosmetologist, my job's primary focus is not hairstyling, nail care and skin care. Instead, my primary job is public safety.  The Ohio State Board of Cosmetology allows me "to do" hair, skin and nails as I please. Provided, I practice public saftey and sainitation is the midst of me working. So while these ordinary people on YOUTUBE are promoting this practice at home. The "water wash" increases your chances of not being able to enter a salon almost anywhere in the United States due to the critters that will automatically grow in your head or make you a breeding gound for all kinds of micro icky stuff that will make a going into a salon illegal. Can you say microorganism, bacteria, MRSA, staph, lice, scabies and so on? Every salon in America has "state" rules and guidelines for public safety and sanitation that we by law must adhere to in order to safely serve the public, work, and let you sit in the chairs at our salons. No licensed hair stylist can provide service to a person with live bugs on their persons (hair included). To do so violates public safety. So wash your hair and wash it good with soap and water.

The Ohio State Board
of Cosmetology, by law requires
every hair, skin, nail and spa to
post the Rules, Regulations
and Law around PUBLIC SAFETY.

With that, I will conclude this blog with two informative facts about using Monistat Vaginal Cream in any fashion on your scalp to grow your hair and using "water wash" only method to clean your hair. Both are natural and both do not work. The mere act of squeezing Monistat Vaginal Cream from the tube and rinsing your hair with water as you rub your hair is indeed natural. Make no mistake. However, if you really want your hair to grow, increase your blood supply to your hair bulb located inside your follicle that is on your scalp. You can do this via washing your scalp or a scalp massage. Ketoconazole has not been medically proven to affect any gene via topical application. So don't use it and if you are, stop, 

If you want to preserve or improve the texture of your hair, you need to use soap and water. Lawd, people! Water is interestingly beneficial for you and your hair when you use it frequently properly.  I am certainly no Water Treatment Specialist and I do not work for the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency).  If your curly, kinky, wavy or/and Afro texture is being compromised from the use of any kind of shampoo and conditioner, it is because you are not 
using the right kind. You also are not using or is using the wrong kind of protein on your hair. Lastly, your hair could be coated from not being properly cleaned.  Water washing will only make matters worse after extended use. How? At one point in my life, I was a "Soap Hating" kid. One summer I decided to water wash and not use soap when I bathed. You know getting in the tub, dipping the soap in the water and rinsing off. One night I was itching profusely. When my sister and cousins asked why was I scratching and itching so much, my mother walked passed and said, "Micororganisms." When they asked, "What's that?" She replied, "The cooties!" No one wanted to play with me for the rest of the summer and I and the "cootie" touch all that summer....lol

Cootie Science Humo

The meaning of ridiculousness is "causing or worthy of ridicule or derision; absurd; preposterous; laughable. Absurdly or unbelievably good, bad crazy, etc." Now, let's use it in a sentence. Mixing Monistat Vaginal Cream with hair cream to apply to your scalp for your hair to grow is ridiculous. And to wash it off using water wash method and call it natural hair care is ridiculousness!"

Naughty by Nature

Textured hair hooray.....ho!

Working with textured (curly, kinky, wavy and straight) hair all day every day is way cool. Trust me, I can tell you a thing or two about theory versus practice as it relates to textured hair. Textured hair is so diverse and unabashed. It makes a mockery out of any one who calls themselves “specializing in it!”

There have been oodles of attempts by people, chemists and hair care companies worldwide to concoct a one size fit all product that will work on the varying textured heads of hair; NOT. There are also oodles of attempts by people, hairstylists and naturalists worldwide whom attempt to produce a one size fit all video that persons with their varying textures of hair can watch and duplicate; NOT. And there have been many of experts and novices who too have attempted to write books that attempt to teach and instruct people into a one size fit all 4 categories of textured hair; NOT.

I don't know if you recognize this or not; but there is a mass market appeal to tame the beast within textured hair worldwide. Folk are trying to find the one magic answer to taming textured hair like they are trying to find out how humans actually came into existence. It ain't gonna happen.

From the getty up, textured hair is difficult. Think back when you were a kid. What was your first view or words on textured hair? For most; words like difficult, hard, nappy and unmanageable quickly comes to mind. Why? Ignorance, fear and brainwashing. When folk don't know, they don't know. And ignorance mostly leads to fear. Fear makes you vulnerable to brainwashing. Yet, if you know textured hair and know what you are doing, there is absolutely positively nothing difficult, hard and unmanageable about textured hair. Even if it is nappy!

TBT (Throw Back Trig)

As a matter of fact, saying textured hair is difficult is like saying trigonometry is hard. Ask a mathematician and I guarantee; he or she would disagree. Saying textured hair is difficult is like saying children are loud. It’s the nature of the beast. And that is the beauty in working with math and textured hair...lol

Textured hair is naughty by nature. You have no option but to work with the texture you have. The confusing thing about textured hair is trying to wrap your mind around the very contrived, controlled notion and promotion of generalized textured hair versus individualized textured hair. Understand, generalizations are purposefully designed to help people along the way. The challenge is, most people interpret those generalizations, suggestions and advice as bond. They really take the word of what they hear. And they sincerely try to duplicate what they see.

In a world of nano technology, speed, quick, instant and fast; who in the hell has time for textured hair? Because anybody with or without textured hair who has the tiniest sense of knowledge in their head knows there is nothing quick about textured hair for most. So, in my Italian accent “Forgettaboutit!” And though it may not be as simple as quick as the touch or swipe of a finger; textured hair is NOT difficult.

Textured hair is unique and diverse.

Genetically speaking hair textures are as unique as the faces on the heads in which they lie. No two heads of hair alike (with the exception of identical twins). 

Understand that textured hair is like the leaves on a tree. Textured hair is supposed to feel grainy. Textured hair strands take on different shapes just like leaves. All strands are not the same. The climate affects textured hair just like the climate affects the leaves. Textured hair is influenced by its source. Just like leaves are affected by its source of a plant, tree or soil. Textured hair changes color just like the leaves on a tree. Textured hair is very unique to every unique individual who has it. Textured hair is unruly. Like leaves, it takes different twists, turns an coils as it grows from the scalp.

Imagine all leaves looking the same, ugh!

Textured hair is for the movers and shakers. It’s naughty by nature; not cuz it hates ya!

Textured hair is lovely. It requires KNOWING hands to work with it. In order to handle all its twists, turns and knots, it requires knowledge of it. It does not want to be straight. You can put all the chemicals, locs, weave, glue, thread, wigs, surgical transplants, hats, rollers, heat and products you want on it. At some point, the texture will return and it WILL win!  It wants to be wavy, curly, frizzy and big. It does not want to be shiny artificially; it wants to be shiny in its natural way. You know like a leaf. So don’t fret and fight too much to try to make it act like other textures you want and see.

Simply beautiful

Make it your business to learn your unique fabric. Remember advertisements, photos, videos, books and blogs are guides. Be selective in the products you use on your hair. Make the time to spend the time with your hair. It will never be as instant as shake and go for most. Last but not least if it works use it. Textured hair must be embraced by its uniqueness. When treated accordingly; it will yield results of beauty that would leave most speechless. 


"Smooth it out now!" 

The Transition Mission

 Believe it or not, I am not one of those cosmetologists who promotes salon visits. Yeah, I know! As a matter of fact, the main reason I opened a salon was to teach every person who walks in about the hair on their head, how to care for and how to style it. Really, you say? Really!

Afro

Some time ago "relaxer," "creamy-crack," "chemically altered hair" and all that jive started to become the fearing buzz words in the salon world of hair care like the Ebola virus scare came to CDC in the world of viruses. As a cosmetologist with a degree in social science, this craze really caught my attention. Soon, I found myself becoming to hair care what Michael Moore became to the government, the food industry, globalization, assault weapons and the American health care systems; a whistle blower.

Regrowth

While I do not possess the talent to write and produce documentaries; I do have the talent to write. Just as the attack on the Twin Towers in New York, the killings of innocent teens while at school in Columbine and the ignorance to the over consumption of fast foods irritated Mr. Moore to the point of investing his time, energy and money into exposing those wrong doers for what they were worth; the same for me in hair care. 

Flat ironed tresses to the left....

Nothing irritates me more in hair care than licensed hair stylists and hair care companies claiming they can make hair healthy. When they know it is the blood supply fueled by genetics, diet, exercise and bowel movements that does. Another irritant for me is now how all of a sudden relaxers are bad for your health and your hair. I still remain perplexed how the chemists, marketing execs and the companies themselves have allowed the same licensed professionals who educated for them, sold for them, used for them, promoted for them, applied their chemical relaxers to millions of women world wide and encouraged them to charge those millions of consumers worldwide for having their hair chemically altered. I am surprised how they have not backed up their claim that has always been stamped on every tub, printed on every direction in almost every language and taught by almost every instructor; DISCONTINUE USE if allergic reactions occur. To the credit of most companies; they have never claimed that their chemical relaxers were for everyone. The ownest has been and will always be on the person applying the chemical to be trained and follow the manufacturers instructions. 

So here I am today writing a blog about another thing that irks me, the transition scare! Good lawd, some of these hair stylists and hair care companies have lost their minds encouraging those who do not like or have had a reaction to the chemical to cut it all off. I am all for the option to cut it off for whatever reason, if that is your choice. But, when one enters the salon with over processed tresses; to be honest, cutting it off is the best option for the severely damaged hair. Anything less is hype.

Victoria's secret ain't so secret no more.

"TBH," as my colleague Malika Jones always says, when you break down the most common ingredient found in chemical relaxers: sodium hydroxide. The sodium hydroxide is nothing but salt, water and oxygen fluffed up with petroleum, conditioners, synthetic proteins and all that jive which all DRIES out hair to RELAX the texture (curly, kinky, wavy and Afro). It is the HEAT from the hot water, blow dryer, hooded dryer, curling iron or flat iron that STRAIGHTENS the hair. The relaxer never claimed to straighten the texture. The relaxer claimed to RELAX the texture. The side affects those drying chemicals are often excessive drying or irritation to the scalp, neck or/and forehead. Allergic reactions such as swelling, redness, bumps or burning (to those with sensitive skin) has always been explained either on the bottle, in the instructions or in training to licensed hair stylists. Just medicine or any other thing that is ingested or apply topically to your skin can irritate it; so can the relaxer. And for the record anything that is applied topically to your skin, NOT JUST THE RELAXER enters into your blood stream, going directly to your liver and kidneys which will filter out most toxins from the stuff we put on our skin. So if you think creamy crack is just gawd awful, then toss out all that Victoria's Secret,  Bath and Body Works, Flower Bomb perfume, MAC make up and more. I mean most people put that stuff on twice a day every day and more. Some even wash up in it. Do you do that with a relaxer?

The world's best protein

Voila!

So versus being scared to grow out your relaxer, be open to the options of what it takes to do so. If it is your personal desire to cut it off; then do so because that is what you want to do; not because someone told you to do so because relaxers are toxic. 

The easiest and most affordable way to grow out your relaxer is to incorporate a protein treatment into your hair care regiment that protects the outer layer (cuticle) and second layer (cortex) of your hair. If the protein you are using reads that it is only for the outer (cuticle) layer; you may not be impressed with the results and unwanted breakage may continue to happen. If you use a protein that reads that it can penetrate to the second layer (cortex), BINGO you are in luck! The cortex is where the actual strength of the hair is. So using a protein of that nature will increase the likelihood of strengthening the entire strand of hair (regrowth, mid-shaft and ends) which will decrease the likelihood of your hair breaking off at the demarcation line (where the regrowth and relaxed hair meets).

In conclusion, if you add that simple product to your hair care regimen...the transition will be successful. As for what is toxic and can kill you? That is another blog!

Scrub-A-Dub-Dub

Simple and affordable.

The two most annoying things about hair care are by far; de-tangling,  and smoothing it out. While those two nuances get the most attention, scaly scalps ranks number one for many who have this annoying and at times embarrassing problem.

There are many solutions for scaly and flaking scalp. The common "turn to" solutions are anti-flake shampoos, medicines, ointments and creams to name a few. But what do you do when you do not like those options? Perhaps you may not like them because they dry the hair out, or they seem a tad bit too toxic or you are just not in the mood to run out and buy some more. Never fear, the blogger hair junkie is here!

The easiest and quickest solution is directly across from you living room by way of your kitchen! Yep, all you have to do is open the fridge, grab a lemon, walk over to your cabinet and pull out that bag of brown sugar. Yes, that one. The one you haven't used since last Thanksgiving to make those cookies! You can also add a dash of olive oil to make the application process a lot easier.

Quick and easy

I know; nothing taste better that lemon drizzled humans topped with a little sugar! While tasting good is not the objective; looking good is! If your skin , like your scalp, has a tendency to be dry, scaly, discolored, blemished or just plain ol' dull looking, a "lemon sugar scrub" is the answer as well. If you find that the chemical solution of fancy facial cleansers, scrubs and automatic brushes are too abrasive; again, the "lemon sugar scrub is a great alternative!"

How can the "lemon sugar scrub" be good for both your scalp and your face/skin. Easy. There is this naturally occurring acid in sugar called "glycolic acid." In lemons, the active ingredients are vitamin c and salicylic acid. Vitamin C is known for it's super anti-oxidant properties. Anti-oxidants are all about anti aging. Glycolic and salicylic acid are about exfoliating and moisturizing. Exfoliating helps to clean skin of blemishes. It also prevents the skin from clogging which promotes unwanted acne. Lastly glycolic and salicylic acid helps keep the scalp and skin looking young by sloughing off dead skin cells thus helping to regenerate new skin cells that results in glowing younger looking skin.

Great for everyone!

Understand that your skin is the largest organ of the body. The skin is part of your excretory system. Your body rids itself of toxins through the skin by way of sweating, scaling at the scalp and so on. Therefore, keeping it cleaned is imperative. The skin and scalp naturally sloughs off old skin cells as the body naturally generates new skin. The old skin needs to be removed. Regular cleansing with a face cloth and your hands does not have the ability to remove scaly skin and flaking scalps that may have become thick, sticky and difficult to wash off. 

The goal in skin and scalp care is rejuvenation, protection and moisturizing. Instead of going to the local pharmacy and skin care counter to address your scalp and skin problems; walk out your living room right into your kitchen and get to mixing. This solution is safe and great for the entire family. Be careful not to get the lemon juice into your eyes or if you have a cut on your skin somewhere it will tingle. 

Cleanse scalp, body and face first to ensure dirt, make up and other environmental debris are off the scalp, face, feet and the rest of your body. To make the lemon scalp & body scrub, you will need a small bow. Next, roll the lemon around on a hard surface a few times to make it soft. Afterwards, cut the lemon in half and squeeze it. Next add the brown sugar until you get the consistency of a loose paste. Scoop with your fingers and in a circular motion, firmly massage your scalp, face, feet, legs, arms or entire body. Add one lemon as you go along as to not make too much. You DO NOT need to follow up with soapy wash. Simply rinse in warm water and slather on your favorite oil. 

The lemons and sugar scrub provide a natural, safe and effective solution at an affordable cost that is easy to make and effective.

Now stand back and lick ya-self!

Good News; Bad News

Remember this!

Providing hair care to thousands of women is very interesting. As a licensed cosmetologist, I am very deliberate in setting the tone with each and every woman, teen, child and male I encounter. The tone I am setting is that I am a cosmetologist who cares. I am a cosmetologist who does not want you to be a slave to the hair salon. I am cosmetologist who wants you to know how to care for your hair and I am just the cosmetologist to teach you.

In setting that tone, most people are excited! I often hear, "I have never met a cosmetologist who teaches you how to do your own hair."  For every person I meet who is excited about learning how to care for their hair, I meet meet three times as many who are not. Believe it or not, in this day in time there remains a large portion of women who do not want to have anything to do with their hair; let alone style it. Well, for those of you who are all too familiar about hating to do your hair, "I have some good news and I have some bad news."

As always, since this is a Blog Ndogo, I have to got to make it short and get straight to the point. Would you like the good news first or the bad news? Bad news it is! The bad news is, there is no such thing as care free hair. All hair (locked, twist, natural, long, short, fade, Jheri curl, finger waves, weaves and so on) requires some form of care and maintenance. "Awe man," you say?  My goal in writing this blog today it to debunk this international misnomer that hair care can be care free. To do so, I have to back it with facts. So here goes it.

Product build up leaves white
scaly flakes on scalp and
hair.

Though you may not agree; I must reiterate, Hair care cannot be care free. The question of why and a barrage of "what if" scenarios comes flowing to me. Let me stop you right there with the honest reason why hair care can not be "none." Because hair is skin. And skin has to be cleansed properly with the right cleansing agent for a specific hair type on a regular basis. There that ends the bad news.

Now the good news. The good news about hair care is that inasmuch as it has to be cared for on regular basis with the right products for your unique hair fabric; it can be done so in more ways than I can type in this blog. Hair care fall under hygiene. Hygiene such as brushing your teeth, washing your arm pits, washing other body parts and so. The body has seven orifices (openings) that are self cleansing. The seven orifices are: eyes, ears, nose, mouth, navel, vagina, buttocks and skin which has follicles (those little tiny holes that every hair on your body grows out of). More good news is that we all know what comes out of those orifices and happens when any of them are not cleansed regularly with the right cleansing agent. Need I type more? Of course not! Can we all say, "ewe!"

This how the scalp looks from Co-Washing and infrequent
shampooing. Do not do this to your scalp. This is why hair looks
dull and unhealthy.

I invite anyone reading this blog to either change their mindset that hair style is hair care or lose their hair.  In reality, hair needs to be cared for in order to style it. Any hair stylist, cosmetologist or natural hair care guru who is deliberate in removing you from the equation of caring for your or is encouraging you not cleanse it with shampoo and is encouraging you to replace your shampoo with conditioner to co-wash is wrong. Any hair stylist , cosmetologist or natural hair care guru who tells you or leads you to believe that shampooing your hair every two weeks or longer is ok; is wrong.

More good news?  Licensed cosmetologists and natural hair care gurus all know that hair thins as we age. They also know that as we age; their hair care regimen needs to change with aging. They also know exactly what happens to hair when it is over soften with conditioners, moisturizers, salves, balms and pomades. Every licensed professional and natural hair care guru knows that the above mentioned hair care practices all do one thing; PROMOTE PRE-MATURE HAIR LOSS and DAMAGE.

Find the right product for your
hair type.

Because the good news only gets better and I have to keep this blog short, I can end with three popular simple solutions if you have been traveling down the quick path to hair loss by not shampooing regularly or have been shampooing it with the wrong products. The first thing to do is go ahead on and accept the fact that you have to cleanse your scalp and hair on regular basis (at least 1-2 times per week). Second, select a shampoo that is for your scalp and hair type. If you do not know ask your stylist. A simple strand test can be done by taking on strand of hair and tug on it. If it snaps quick; it is thin. If it takes a little while to snap; it is medium. And if it never snaps; it is coarse. From there that is how you select the right shampoo and make your purchase. Third and last, be sure the shampoo reads that it cleanses your scalp too. If it reads it only cleanses your hair then that is all it will clean. 

When it comes to the matter of scalp disorders such as dandruff, psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, dermatitis and the like; please go see a dermatologist. Do not allow your hair stylist or natural hair care guru play doctor on your scalp. Doing so almost always results in worsening the scalp disorder. Your grand mother can not diagnose your dandruff and your hair stylist can not treat it.

Some simple solutions to rid your scalp and hair of build up from infrequent shampooing are:

• Making a mixture of lemon juice and water and misting that on to your hair. Let it sit for about 5-15 minutes and shampoo.
• Add about a teaspoon of baking soda to your shampoo, rinse and follow with your favorite conditioner.
• Mix one part apple cider vinegar to 4 parts water and mist on your hair before you shampoo. Let it sit for 5-15 minutes and shampoo off. Or you can mist it on your hair after you condition it to soften, detangle and add shine to your hair. 

Hair care takes patience and time.

Good news; bad news. Hair care takes time. There is no quick way to hygiene. The body makes waste and emits it through those seven openings. Just as you would brush your teeth after eating something that is gritty or foul in odor; and just as you would wash your arm pits the moment you smell musk; the same prompt response must be made for hair. And just as you know the benefits of washing and caring for those other orifices; understand you will get the exact same results when you give your scalp and hair the same attention and response the moment you noticed it was not clean and smelling fresh. Can we say, relief!

Do the right thing and develop a hair care regimen just as you do for brushing your teeth, bathing, cleaning ears and so on so you can reap the benefits of truly having clean healthy hair.

How's that for good news; bad news?

Let's Get Physical

Being a professional cosmetologist has its pros and cons like any other career. Like most careers, the more you do something, receive training and get more training; the better you become at it. But, as good as I think I am, there is this one thing in my career that gets my goat every time. That one thing is the great debate about a hairstyle (image) versus exercise. 

Are you a chump or a champion?

As a professional who makes an honest living off of looking cute, presentable to the public and having a great hair day every day, I will make this Blog Ndogo even more short and sweet. First things first. There is no versus. The hair style will loose the debate every time because looking good is something that always starts from the inside.

There are many of days that I stand behind the salon chair and I get countless inquiries about this debate. Now, I don't know if you can tell, but-ter-rumm; I'm no fitness instructor! Nonetheless, I can not think of one fitness instructor who would support any able bodied person compromising their health over their hair. I know, I know; ya gotta get up early to get the kids ready, get ready for work, walk the dog, feed the husband (lol) and so on and so forth. I can see you now reading this blog thinking, "Umph, I bet that fitness instructor has locs or extension braids and does not know a thing or two about a hair style." Well, they may not. Yet, they can tell you that the more you exercise the more hair you will have. And if looking cute with great hair is what you are after; then the gym (or exercising at home) is the place to make it happen. Not the hair salon. 

Let's get physical!

I actually reward every customer who sits in my chair that chooses fitness/health over their hair! I have come up with the top 3 benefits that exercise does for hair to encourage the skeptics to do so. Drum roll please. Working my way back, the third reason one should choose fitness over a hair style is because there is a strong correlation between physical activity and GROWING hair. Yep, ya know it! Exercising gets the blood flowing something fierce. When blood flows hair grows. The best way to nourish your hair is from within. It's free and you do not have to sit under the dryer for a treatment. The second benefit of choosing fitness over a hairstyle is your beautiful glowing skin. Remember when the blood flows, hair grows and skin glows! (hey I'm on a roll here!)  Yes, exercising definitely promotes healthy glowing, acne free and blemish free skin as well.  Just look around; thick hair, blemish free and glowing skin goes hand in hand. Can you say, "Philly Weeden, Jane Fonda or Miesha Wilson!" They look good, don't they? I mean don't just look at their bodies; look at their hair and skin. Lastly, the number one reason to choose fitness over a hair style is because it saves you money! When you exercise you will not waste money on frivolous purchases at the grocery store, clothing store or hair salon. Well, you might buy more gear, but you catch my drift!

Okay now, real talk; if you are wearing any form of braided styles or a pixie cut, you will have to get those hair styling services more frequently. Compared to when you were more sedentary your hair growth was doing the bare minimum. Now that you are exercising you are getting the maximum and again, that blood flow promotes hair growth. So you are not tripping if you find yourself paying more frequently for those braided styles and pixie cuts. But at least you will have hair.

Yes you can!

In the end, I understand that looking cute and presentable in the public eye is very important to us image conscious folk; but I can tell you from personal experience, exercising as needed rules over a hair style any day! I can not think of any better advice to give to any person wanting to look good from the outside in or the inside out than telling them the honest truth of choosing health over hair. When you feel good, you will look good no matter how much hair you have, do not have and rather it is real or fake. 

I look the part of what I promote as a professional cosmetologist. I have a good hair day every day. One would be hard pressed to catch my hair looking cray, unless your name is Hattie Mae a.k.a LaKeisha (my colorist) or Malika (my back up colorist)! Like many, I too had to address my physical and mental health. I chose exercising. I do it at least 5 times a week for 45 minutes a day. I try it all. Some exercising makes me sweat more than others. And whenever I am asked, "What do you to your hair when you exercise and it messes up?" I realistically respond, "I do it over." My school of thought is, it's all about sanity; not about vanity. 

It's just hair people. Get up, get out, get to moving. Eat a balanced diet. Drink plenty of water. Be sure to boo boo; oh and think really good thoughts! The same effort you put into your hair, clothes, nails, shoes, make up, going out to dinner, going to social gatherings and all that goes with it; put it into your physical and mental health. In the words of my boy George Clinton of the Parliament/Funkadelic, "Free your mind and your ass will follow!" 

Let's get physical!