Going Through the Changes

Change is one of those words that can go from a meaning to a story, to a topic, then to a song. There are so many adages about change. For example, "Change is the only constant," or "To improve is to change; to perfect is to change often." So as you can see, change is on our minds. 

Change is the norm that humans have to come accept in the many facets of life. And while many fight change, most conclude that change truly is the inevitable and ultimately, they surrender. Except when it comes to hair!

The opportunity to create varying looks on women through hair coloring, hair straightening, hair cutting, hair styling, hair braiding and adding artificial hair to embellish hair is an awesome gift and opportunity. Transforming and enhancing the image of a person does so much to the spirit of the person who is fortunate enough to take on the artistic task. However, when hair starts to change, our canvas or person does not quite share our sentiment. Artistic expression is quickly turned into, "What did you to my hair?"

Hair like art needs to be manipulated in many ways to create something. The challenge to designing hair when it thins or balds is everything interesting with an additional twist to the challenge. The twist to the challenge is creating something that was full and is now thin or gone.

Admittingly, there is nothing so challenging about styling and designing thinning or balding hair that a qualified licensed hair stylist cannot do. However, the mind of the customer whose hair is thinning or balding is another story. 

Thinning and balding hair begins to inform it's recipient of its parting of the ways from the scalp long before the recipient realizes or admits their hair is thinning or balding. To begin with, thinning or balding is a must for just about every human who lives past one breath. Why? Because change will come. 

Change for hair comes in the form of what is called a "life cycle." Each strand of hair has a life cycle. The life cycle of the hair begins below the surface of the scalp in a bulb called a papilla. If you have ever plucked a hair or eyebrow, the bulb is that tiny white ball attached to the strand of hair.  Within that tiny bulb is where the hair receives its nourishment from the arteries in your body that feeds every single strand of hair on your entire body. 

Each strand of hair on the scalp lives approximately 7 years. The life cycle has three stages. The first stage is the anagen. It is during this first stage that hair grows all day every day. By the end of the month, the average head of hair will have grown about 1/4th of an inch. This growth process happens for about 7 years. The next stage is the catagen phase. This phase is where each strand of hair rest for about one month. It is not growing. The last stage is the telogen phase. During this last phase, it takes about two weeks for the hair to release itself from the follicle. Afterward, a new hair grows in it starts its own cycle. Please keep in mind that all the strands of hair are not synchronized. Therefore, you will not see all of your hair fibers coming out and growing back in at the same time. The misnomer that hair has stopped growing simply is not true. The exception is for those who have disorder where the hair will not grow.

When we notice fibers of hair sticking up after our hair is styled, that reflects the varying stages of growth each strand is in. We can determine how old a strand of hair by measuring its length and dividing into those 1/4 growth increments. 

What happens every seven years as each strand of hair grows, come out and a new hair grows in; is the new hair typically grows in thinner. Some people are genetically assigned to bald. If balding is in your genes, then it is inevitable that at some point complete hair loss in a certain area will happen. Balding can be in men and women. 

While thinning and balding for some is the inevitable, one does not want to speed things up. Infrequent shampooing, using heavy creams, lotions, butters, salves and petroleum products can clog follicles. Clogged follicles prevent hair from growing in properly and thinning is the result. If balding is in the gene, using heavy products will speed up the balding process as well. 

Understand the scalp is a microbial habitat. This means the scalp cleanses itself by producing a fungus of sorts that needs to be washed away in an organized fashion depending on how one's body produces the fungus. Most people need to clean their scalps at least every 2-7 days. Anything beyond those seven days may exacerbate unwanted thinning and balding. 

Change, will come to all who have hair. While the fountain of youth offers no such liquid that will yield longer stronger hair as we age; using other liquids such as shampoo, conditioner, technique, and tools will yield magnificent anti-aging results. 

There is a upside and a downside to thinning hair. Balding hair is not something most people look forward to. The predictability of how and when one will thin or go bald has yet to be etched in stone for the masses. But, what is etched in stone is how to slow down the thinning or balding process. For example, keep your scalp clean. Yeast and hair care products can clog the follicle. A dirty scalp is the most common way to speed up the thinning and balding process. Do not use aggressive styling techniques. Loosen up those tight head wraps and caps as to no impede the vital blood flow that nourishes hair. And do not use harsh and heavy products. They will surely dry out scalp and hair, thus resulting in faster thinning and balding. 

Lastly, the upcoming Spring Equinox is upon us on Monday, March 20th. Remember the moon influences blood flow and hormonal activity. Blood flow and hormonal activity are directly responsible for the health of the hair and hair growth. Take advantage of the most powerful equinox. It will to not only balance your life and set the tone for your new year, it will also do the same for your hair. 

Change is inevitable. Yet there are things in nature that compliment the ebb and flow of change. Versus combating change, embrace the potential for goodness in your health and life. Going through the changes is just that. Something you will go through. You will come out on top. If you pay attention and not fight change, you and hair will embrace the process and blossom into what will be, will be.

Shedding Hair

Request or nah!

Working behind the chair as a cosmetologist can be similar to working as a DJ behind the turntables. Like DJ's cosmetologists get many requests. And like DJ's we like to fulfill what people are asking. In addition, like DJ's we also get a lil tired of getting requests for the same thing. 

Of all the things I tire of getting requests for, it would be the request to alleviate shedding hair. Shedding and hair breakage is like a classic song that you will have to put up with pretty much for the rest of your life. Currently, I am heavily involved doing research on follicle care. The research is so very interesting and full of splendor! The research is, of course, helping me in my day to day operations as a hair stylist. Recently, The Physiological Reviews Journal reports that “the most important theme in studying the cycling hair follicle is that the follicle is a regenerating system.”

With the scientific fact that the follicle is an organ that has a natural cycle to regenerate itself; like that Fifty Cent song "In Da Club," you are gonna see hair shed and break over and over again just like that song. It is a natural process of the regenerative life cycle of the every hair fiber on your hair. However, when it comes to hair shedding and breaking; one should not see excessive amounts of hair in the comb, in the sink, tub, floor or shower. 

Hair breakage

In order to get a grasp on hair shedding, hair breaking I will expound upon other culprits such as hair thinning and balding/hair loss fall under hair shedding and breakages.

Hair shedding is part of that "regenerating system" I learned about during my research. Your hair lives inside of an organ called a follicle (the tiny whole your hair fibers grow from). Your hair is formed, nourished and grows from a tiny bulb called a papilla. Before your hair becomes the strands you see growing from your scalp it goes through 3 phases. The first phase is the anagen phase which is the actual growing phase. It lasts up to 6-7 years. So that other request of what can I use to make my hair grow? Stop asking. And by all means, please stop buying products that make hair grow. It grows for free. The second phase is the Catagen phase. It is the resting phase that lasts about 2-3 weeks. During this phase, the hair is literally resting and the body is not making any hair. And the last phase is Telogen. This phase lasts 3 months. This is where the hair actually sheds. You will be able to differentiate between a strand of hair that has shed and a strand of hair that has broken. Hair strands that have shed will have little tiny white bulb attached to the strands of hair. On an average, you will see a lil over one hundred strands per day. That would look like about a teaspoon size amount depending on your length. 

Hair shedding

Most people do not understand that all hair fibers do not shed at the same time. Each strand of hair grows from its own follicle (organ). Therefore, they do not all grow and shed at the same rate. It is fair to conclude that at the end of a 7 year, or so cycle, you will have a new head of hair. So, do not panic at the constant shedding; for it is a reflection of new hair that will be growing in. You can woo sah now!

Using too much of anything compromises hair.

Next up is "breaking and snapping hair." The difference between shedding hair and breakage is the bulb. Remember, shedding hair will have the lil tiny white bulb attached. Breakage will not. Breakage is normal as well. Especially if you manipulate your hair frequently. Examples of hair manipulation are combing, braiding, heat styling, sew in's, chemical services, friction from wearing scarves, hats, brushing and the likes. Doing these things aggressively or using the wrong comb/brush are the number two culprit to hair breaking and snapping. In addition, leaving conditioners and super softening agents on your hair too long will cause hair to snap and break. Coconut oil, conditioners, synthetic oils, pomades, silicones mineral oils and petroleum are examples of super softening agents that folk apply when manipulating their hair. Unfortunately, they are typically the culprits to excessive snapping and breakage. Another cause to unwanted hair breakage and shedding are sulfates and sulfate free ingredients that act like sulfates on the hair. Sulfates and sulfate free ingredients are chemicals that most manufacturers use to clean hair. While they are cheap, universal and common in almost every kind of shampoo your money can spend, the side affects are often hair breakage and shedding. They actually speed up the telogen phase of the hair growth process. So buyer beware. Don't be duped by all this fancy sulfate free, natural and unfortunately certain organic ingredients that act like sulfates on your hair. 

Hair thinning is the natural process for all humans as we age. What happens is the follicle (the tiny hole that the hair is growing from) actually shrinks and gets smaller; thus producing hair that is thin, fine, limp, weak and very susceptible to breaking. While aging is a given for all, there is nothing we can do to stop it. However, we can slow it down. The best way to slow down thinning hair is to reduce the heavy products used to care for and style your hair. Use fewer styling products. On an average, you only need a maximum of 3 styling products to produce a beautiful long lasting hair style. If you swear that you need more, then you are most definitely using the wrong shampoos. But that is another blog. Thinning hair can also be hereditary. Therefore, be mindful of what you use and pay attention to your comb and brush when styling your hair to make sure that you are not physically snatching your hair out. Infrequent shampooing will certainly promote thinning hair because you are not getting the blood supply to feed the hair bulb the nourishment that is needed for your hair to grow. So if your are shampooing your every 8 days and beyond; eventually your hair will thin out, grow in weak, snap or break off and you will not see your desired length or density. Heavy products clog the follicle and leave no room for the hair to grow from. Do not apply conditioners or other heavy or thick styling agents to your scalp. Never. Doing so will promote thinning. These products are not formulated to apply directly to your scalp. Doing so typically results in scalp irritation which can promote hair thinning and breakage as well. Dring plenty of water, eat a sound diet, boo-boo and get some rest to promote hair that grows and will be strong as well. Using products that are rich in wheat proteins, keratin, essential oils and herbs are sure to be a winner in seeing noticeable long lasting results for those with issues of breaking, balding, hair loss and thinning hair. 

Infrequent shampooing is sure to promote thinning.

Lastly, is balding and hair loss. Both conditions have a few culprits. For many scalp disorders fueled by compromised immune systems can result in things like varying forms of alopecia, which results in hair loss. Alopecia happens when the communication between cells and hormones become very confused by a compromised immune system that actually sends the wrong message to attack the hair's ability to actually grow. For some this can happen in certain areas on the scalp, for others it is all over the scalp and for some it is every hair on their entire body (eyebrows, eyelashes, armpits and so on). This condition of hair loss is best supervised by a doctor or licensed holistic practitioner. Another culprit to baldness and hair loss is the Demodex mite. I know, "ewe!" Yes, sirree bob. The Demodex mite is a very tiny microorganism that actually eats away at the hair inside the follicle and the hormone DHT (dehydrolyzed testosterone) helps feed the mite as well. While there are many salon quality products claiming to get rid of this bug, research says it is virtually impossible considering it is in your blood system. Therefore, medication, essential oils, and herbs are the only sources that can effectively enter your blood stream and kill off those mites. Wearing hats, scarves and doo-rags help promote the loss of hair through the friction of wearing them. When this mite eats away at hair, your hair is actually growing in thinner; thus making it very weak and fragile. Hats, scarves, and doo rags rub away at the hair and hair loss happens that much faster. 

As you can see hearing the same old request to get answers to why hair sheds can be extensive, The request can get a little boring like getting those same song requests. And much like hearing the same old song, seeing hair in the sink, on the floor, on your clothes and so on is the norm. It is the excessive amount that should concern you. To recap, the likely culprits to excessive shedding are infrequent shampooing, washing hair too much, dehydration, scalp disorders, bacteria and using heavy products. If you listen to your hair and scalp like you listen to your music, you will respond to the request to care for it properly and differently. I guarantee that if you do so, it will be like music to your ears. And we all know what that sounds and feels like!

Good News; Bad News

Remember this!

Providing hair care to thousands of women is very interesting. As a licensed cosmetologist, I am very deliberate in setting the tone with each and every woman, teen, child and male I encounter. The tone I am setting is that I am a cosmetologist who cares. I am a cosmetologist who does not want you to be a slave to the hair salon. I am cosmetologist who wants you to know how to care for your hair and I am just the cosmetologist to teach you.

In setting that tone, most people are excited! I often hear, "I have never met a cosmetologist who teaches you how to do your own hair."  For every person I meet who is excited about learning how to care for their hair, I meet meet three times as many who are not. Believe it or not, in this day in time there remains a large portion of women who do not want to have anything to do with their hair; let alone style it. Well, for those of you who are all too familiar about hating to do your hair, "I have some good news and I have some bad news."

As always, since this is a Blog Ndogo, I have to got to make it short and get straight to the point. Would you like the good news first or the bad news? Bad news it is! The bad news is, there is no such thing as care free hair. All hair (locked, twist, natural, long, short, fade, Jheri curl, finger waves, weaves and so on) requires some form of care and maintenance. "Awe man," you say?  My goal in writing this blog today it to debunk this international misnomer that hair care can be care free. To do so, I have to back it with facts. So here goes it.

Product build up leaves white
scaly flakes on scalp and
hair.

Though you may not agree; I must reiterate, Hair care cannot be care free. The question of why and a barrage of "what if" scenarios comes flowing to me. Let me stop you right there with the honest reason why hair care can not be "none." Because hair is skin. And skin has to be cleansed properly with the right cleansing agent for a specific hair type on a regular basis. There that ends the bad news.

Now the good news. The good news about hair care is that inasmuch as it has to be cared for on regular basis with the right products for your unique hair fabric; it can be done so in more ways than I can type in this blog. Hair care fall under hygiene. Hygiene such as brushing your teeth, washing your arm pits, washing other body parts and so. The body has seven orifices (openings) that are self cleansing. The seven orifices are: eyes, ears, nose, mouth, navel, vagina, buttocks and skin which has follicles (those little tiny holes that every hair on your body grows out of). More good news is that we all know what comes out of those orifices and happens when any of them are not cleansed regularly with the right cleansing agent. Need I type more? Of course not! Can we all say, "ewe!"

This how the scalp looks from Co-Washing and infrequent
shampooing. Do not do this to your scalp. This is why hair looks
dull and unhealthy.

I invite anyone reading this blog to either change their mindset that hair style is hair care or lose their hair.  In reality, hair needs to be cared for in order to style it. Any hair stylist, cosmetologist or natural hair care guru who is deliberate in removing you from the equation of caring for your or is encouraging you not cleanse it with shampoo and is encouraging you to replace your shampoo with conditioner to co-wash is wrong. Any hair stylist , cosmetologist or natural hair care guru who tells you or leads you to believe that shampooing your hair every two weeks or longer is ok; is wrong.

More good news?  Licensed cosmetologists and natural hair care gurus all know that hair thins as we age. They also know that as we age; their hair care regimen needs to change with aging. They also know exactly what happens to hair when it is over soften with conditioners, moisturizers, salves, balms and pomades. Every licensed professional and natural hair care guru knows that the above mentioned hair care practices all do one thing; PROMOTE PRE-MATURE HAIR LOSS and DAMAGE.

Find the right product for your
hair type.

Because the good news only gets better and I have to keep this blog short, I can end with three popular simple solutions if you have been traveling down the quick path to hair loss by not shampooing regularly or have been shampooing it with the wrong products. The first thing to do is go ahead on and accept the fact that you have to cleanse your scalp and hair on regular basis (at least 1-2 times per week). Second, select a shampoo that is for your scalp and hair type. If you do not know ask your stylist. A simple strand test can be done by taking on strand of hair and tug on it. If it snaps quick; it is thin. If it takes a little while to snap; it is medium. And if it never snaps; it is coarse. From there that is how you select the right shampoo and make your purchase. Third and last, be sure the shampoo reads that it cleanses your scalp too. If it reads it only cleanses your hair then that is all it will clean. 

When it comes to the matter of scalp disorders such as dandruff, psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, dermatitis and the like; please go see a dermatologist. Do not allow your hair stylist or natural hair care guru play doctor on your scalp. Doing so almost always results in worsening the scalp disorder. Your grand mother can not diagnose your dandruff and your hair stylist can not treat it.

Some simple solutions to rid your scalp and hair of build up from infrequent shampooing are:

• Making a mixture of lemon juice and water and misting that on to your hair. Let it sit for about 5-15 minutes and shampoo.
• Add about a teaspoon of baking soda to your shampoo, rinse and follow with your favorite conditioner.
• Mix one part apple cider vinegar to 4 parts water and mist on your hair before you shampoo. Let it sit for 5-15 minutes and shampoo off. Or you can mist it on your hair after you condition it to soften, detangle and add shine to your hair. 

Hair care takes patience and time.

Good news; bad news. Hair care takes time. There is no quick way to hygiene. The body makes waste and emits it through those seven openings. Just as you would brush your teeth after eating something that is gritty or foul in odor; and just as you would wash your arm pits the moment you smell musk; the same prompt response must be made for hair. And just as you know the benefits of washing and caring for those other orifices; understand you will get the exact same results when you give your scalp and hair the same attention and response the moment you noticed it was not clean and smelling fresh. Can we say, relief!

Do the right thing and develop a hair care regimen just as you do for brushing your teeth, bathing, cleaning ears and so on so you can reap the benefits of truly having clean healthy hair.

How's that for good news; bad news?

The Way You Make Me Feel

Magic happens daily at work!

The other day I was on Google looking for some inspirational tee shirts for a hair stylist. I came across so many, I could not decide on which one to purchase. As I was about to click on a link, I saw a tee shirt that read, "I'm a hair stylist; not a magician." My first response was, "Pompous!" That is the equivalent of a doctor wearing a tee shirt that reads, "I'm a doctor; not God." Neither of those leads a potential customer toward the areas of a great hair style or examination and most certain; not a salon or doctor's visit. 

As a licensed cosmetologist, I know that my primary job is to get all who sit in my chair to have a good feeling about the hair that is on their head and their experience in the salon. I am also of the understanding that, "Hair is unique as the person's head on which it lies." I heard that from one of my favorite hair industry's protege' Philip Pelusi. In other words, no two heads of hair are alike. 

For a true professional understands that every person they provide a service to is different. In the business of service our job is to honor, celebrate, embrace and work with what makes each person different. That is what makes our career so magical!  For every person who enters a salon and is looking for magic; magic is what they will get. I am certainly not in the business of over selling and under delivering. However, I do understand the positive impact I can have on one's self esteem and at times self awareness by getting each different person to discover the magic of what makes their hair unique and beautiful. For those who are adamant that there is absolutely nothing fabulous about their hair, I am one to wave the magic wand of optimism on how one unwanted feature can be offset by another (such as our smile, teeth, complexion, nails, feet, physique, energy, eyes and so on)!

This is where the MAGIC begins!

The magic in the hair salon happens when the person begins to feel their hair, embrace and fall in love with the many things they can do with their hair; as well as all their other physical and mental attributes to make that hair look awesome no matter how little, how thick, how nappy, how balding, how kinky, how gray, how dark, how curly, how fine, how what ever their hair is. The way my hair feels when it is straightened will feel the same way your hair will feel when it is straightened. The way my hair feels when it is curly, will not feel the same way when your hair is curly. The magic is in the discovery of this new uniqueness that makes you, you!

To get the "VOILA" effect on
you hair, be sure the bottle reads
to your hair texture and hair
style goal!

There are four things that contribute to how our hair feels. The first is heat. If you use too much heat; the hair will feel brittle, smell funny and become weak. The second is not enough heat. If you do not use enough heat your hair will be more susceptible to converting, your hair will not shine and your hair will snap. The third thing that contributes to how your hair feels are the styling products you use on your hair. To keep it simple, the reading on the bottle should speak to you hair's texture and the goal you have for your hair. For example, Amika has a product named, "Color pHerfection Shampoo." The label reads that it is safe for color treated hair, it is for all textures and types and the pH is low which prevents the hair from tangling. On the other hand, Philip Pelusi has a product called Longevity. Longevity is deliberated formulated for those who have and want longer hair. Therefore, it bottle reads how the product is formulated for those with longer hair and who want it. It also reads how the product will strengthen and protect the ends of the hair because the ends are the oldest part of the head of hair. The fourth and final thing that contributes to your hair are stressors. Stressors come in two popular forms. Physical and mental stress truly affects the way a person's hair feels. As a result, be sure to use sunscreen on your hair if you will be out in the sun or snow. Be sure to use the proper comb. Remember the wrong comb promotes breakage. Also, bad thoughts. If you think you have bad hair, then bad hair is what you will have. Eliminate both physical and mental stress from you hair care regimen. Good, bad or indifferent; the hair on your head is your. So you might as well learn to care for it and enjoy yourself!

As you can see, the magic in the hair salon happens we make our clients physically feel their hair so they can walk out feeling good about the hair that is on their head.

Now where were we.... oh, ABRAKADEBRA !