The Way You Make Me Feel

Magic happens daily at work!

The other day I was on Google looking for some inspirational tee shirts for a hair stylist. I came across so many, I could not decide on which one to purchase. As I was about to click on a link, I saw a tee shirt that read, "I'm a hair stylist; not a magician." My first response was, "Pompous!" That is the equivalent of a doctor wearing a tee shirt that reads, "I'm a doctor; not God." Neither of those leads a potential customer toward the areas of a great hair style or examination and most certain; not a salon or doctor's visit. 

As a licensed cosmetologist, I know that my primary job is to get all who sit in my chair to have a good feeling about the hair that is on their head and their experience in the salon. I am also of the understanding that, "Hair is unique as the person's head on which it lies." I heard that from one of my favorite hair industry's protege' Philip Pelusi. In other words, no two heads of hair are alike. 

For a true professional understands that every person they provide a service to is different. In the business of service our job is to honor, celebrate, embrace and work with what makes each person different. That is what makes our career so magical!  For every person who enters a salon and is looking for magic; magic is what they will get. I am certainly not in the business of over selling and under delivering. However, I do understand the positive impact I can have on one's self esteem and at times self awareness by getting each different person to discover the magic of what makes their hair unique and beautiful. For those who are adamant that there is absolutely nothing fabulous about their hair, I am one to wave the magic wand of optimism on how one unwanted feature can be offset by another (such as our smile, teeth, complexion, nails, feet, physique, energy, eyes and so on)!

This is where the MAGIC begins!

The magic in the hair salon happens when the person begins to feel their hair, embrace and fall in love with the many things they can do with their hair; as well as all their other physical and mental attributes to make that hair look awesome no matter how little, how thick, how nappy, how balding, how kinky, how gray, how dark, how curly, how fine, how what ever their hair is. The way my hair feels when it is straightened will feel the same way your hair will feel when it is straightened. The way my hair feels when it is curly, will not feel the same way when your hair is curly. The magic is in the discovery of this new uniqueness that makes you, you!

To get the "VOILA" effect on
you hair, be sure the bottle reads
to your hair texture and hair
style goal!

There are four things that contribute to how our hair feels. The first is heat. If you use too much heat; the hair will feel brittle, smell funny and become weak. The second is not enough heat. If you do not use enough heat your hair will be more susceptible to converting, your hair will not shine and your hair will snap. The third thing that contributes to how your hair feels are the styling products you use on your hair. To keep it simple, the reading on the bottle should speak to you hair's texture and the goal you have for your hair. For example, Amika has a product named, "Color pHerfection Shampoo." The label reads that it is safe for color treated hair, it is for all textures and types and the pH is low which prevents the hair from tangling. On the other hand, Philip Pelusi has a product called Longevity. Longevity is deliberated formulated for those who have and want longer hair. Therefore, it bottle reads how the product is formulated for those with longer hair and who want it. It also reads how the product will strengthen and protect the ends of the hair because the ends are the oldest part of the head of hair. The fourth and final thing that contributes to your hair are stressors. Stressors come in two popular forms. Physical and mental stress truly affects the way a person's hair feels. As a result, be sure to use sunscreen on your hair if you will be out in the sun or snow. Be sure to use the proper comb. Remember the wrong comb promotes breakage. Also, bad thoughts. If you think you have bad hair, then bad hair is what you will have. Eliminate both physical and mental stress from you hair care regimen. Good, bad or indifferent; the hair on your head is your. So you might as well learn to care for it and enjoy yourself!

As you can see, the magic in the hair salon happens we make our clients physically feel their hair so they can walk out feeling good about the hair that is on their head.

Now where were we.... oh, ABRAKADEBRA !

Awe, Grow Up!

As you grow and change, so should your hair care regimen.

My job as a cosmetologist is not limited to "doing" hair. As a matter of fact, I have a mantra that I say to those who are in the business of shotty hair care, "If you wanna "DO" hair, then get a mannequin!" 

It is in my professional opinion that when a person sits in the styling chair, they are not merely looking for a hair "do." In my opinion, they are looking for trust, honesty, creativity and flexibility which results in a great hair "do". I understand that in the end, nice looking hair is what they want. But let us address what it really takes for hair to look nice. 

First things first, in order to have hair that looks nice, the hair itself must be what? Nice! Nice hair starts at HOME. I will re-type this. Nice hair starts at home. You know, like your health! Before I ask a new customer how would they like for me to style their hair, I always ask, what is their level of commitment to their hair style when they go home. "What did you just say?" Is ALWAYS the response. Then, almost everyone always start their response off with:

• "Back in the day my hair was..."
• "When I was younger my hair use to be..."
• "I had good hair until ..."
• "My hair use to be really long until..."
• "My old hair stylist would make my hair do..."

To me when a person pays any amount of money for a hair style they are making an investment in themselves. You know like a IRA. Therefore, I always take the time to listen and allow them to tell their "use to be" hair story. Why? Honestly, there are many women who are emotionally and financially traumatized by salon experiences. Their image has been compromised by a bad hair style; be it hair color, hair weave or the actual hair style itself. In addition, there are a large number of women who are left feeling bitter about the price of the hair style as well. Therefore, it is imperative that I listen. It is my goal to teach them what it realistically takes to achieve NICE hair. In order for me to teach them effectively, I have to hear and see (yes, I actually have them show me what they do to their hair at home) what they are doing to their hair so that I may correct anything that they are doing that is counter productive to them having nice hair.

The World's Bestest Protein ever!

So, I understand the "when I was younger" premise, but what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that as you age you change. Your hair care regimen should change as you age. The regimen should not only change at the salon, but it should also change at home. Also, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that "aging" hair is not limited to your chronological age, but environmental stressors such as sun rays, curling irons, braiding twisting, flipping, foods, medicines and so on ages hair as well. If you were in the habit of shampooing your hair bi-weekly when you were in your twenties and thirties; you should NOT be doing the same in your forties and fifties. The life expectancy of one strand of hair is 7 years. Each and every hair on your body grows out of its own hole called a follicle. All hair follicles do not grow at the same time like dog hairs do. That explains why some strands of hair are shorter than others. In addition to the hairs on your head (and body) growing at different rates, they also get thinner as we get older. Because your hair gets thinner as you age, the need for chemical services, more heat, heavier conditioners, heavier oils or pomades are not needed. Often times, I religiously apply Philip Pelusi's Daily Hair Rx Extreme Liquid Repair protein treatment to the hair and apply the appropriate conditioner to the ends of the hair on most of my guest 35 years of age and older. 

One does not need to be a hair stylist or dermatologist to notice the change in one's hair as they age. While thinning and balding typically comes to mind; the integrity of the hair has changed as well. The use of heavy products, flimsy combs, too hot of a styling utensil, excessive pulling and infrequent shampooing are the culprits to unwanted hair loss. It also speed up the process of thinning and balding.  

old school  - Goody Combs

In addition to using more quality protein (I swear by Philip Pelusi's Daily Hair Rx Liquid Protein Spray. It is the best), I also change the temperature on the heated styling tools I use, considering their hair is getting thinner. I also change the combs I use. I make sure I only use quality combs and brushes. For a comb/brush is to your hair what a toothbrush is to your teeth or a broom to the floor. And well all know the poor value of a bad tooth brush and broom; both won't clean a thing. 

New School - Krest Combs

In conclusion, I am not suggesting to totally disregard the tried and true methods of hair care when you were younger; but when it comes to truly achieving nice hair that you could be proud to wear, keep in mind the above mentioned points. Keep your hair clean (even if you just wash and wear or put it in a pony tail). Shampoo at least 1-2 times per week. Do not be so quick to try what is NEW on the market. And the next time you hear someone talk about their hair care from what they use to do in the past, have them visit my blog and say to them, "Awe, grow up!"

That's Played Out! Part 2

Old School (larger molecules) and about 15
minutes under the dryer.

In my last week's blog, "That's Played Out" Part 1, I wrote about the antiquated process of sitting under a hooded dryer for deep conditioning services. To recap, my Blog Ndogo highlighted how sitting under a hooded dryer is a "played out" process due to the fact that older and cheaper products lack the technology that newer products have. In addition, I pointed out that older products contain by heavier ingredients that require heat to swell and soften the hair so the ingredients in the products can penetrate the hair and work. I also wrote, the draw back to that old way of doing things MAY result in coated, over processed hair, longer waiting time under a hot hooded dryer and more money.

In Part 2 of That's Played Out, I am highlighting the benefits of the latest technology in hair care by way of nano-technology. Nano technology is common when the term is paired in science or technology in the areas of computers and smart phones. Well believe it or not, nano technology is used in hair care as well. It has actually been in hair care for quite some time improving hair care in ways we could only dream of.

New school. USP ingredients,
nano technology and 3 minutes NO HEAT

For some reason in hair care everything old is new again. I am still at a lost at how people are falling for the hype of "natural" hair. Natural hair care is about as new as the comb and brush. So like in hair care, what's old is new, the same can be said in science. The truth is, nano technology has been around for quite some time as well. The challenge with this new old science called Nano technology is this new old word called organic. Nano technology gets a bad rap in hair care due to all this new old craze called natural hair. I do not know how these terms have gotten thrown out of text and reinvented, but it is my goal to briefly explain how they all compliment each other. I understand that having natural  hair, going natural, going through a natural hair care journey makes one feel at ease. While relaxers, perms, artificial hair color and anything synthetic or man made can make one feel uneasy. Rest assured that Nano technology has it's place in both the organic, natural and synthetic (man made) world . Nano technology or synthetic doe not necessarily translate into toxic avenger. 

Please be aware that certain people, professionals and hair care companies are using the "fear" of man made or anything synthesized is bad. Granted "man made" anything has its disadvantages, however, there are some men (and women) out here making some pretty good stuff.

A new twist on "Old School" still needs heat and
about 15-20 minutes.

Starting with my main man, Philip Pelusi. Philip Pelusi is a licensed cosmetologist in the city of Pittsburgh. He also formulates, manufacture and sell his own salon quality hair care products. To me hair care products are like cars. A Ford and and Aston Martin are both automobiles that will get you downtown. But, now how you want to arrive? Well that is another blog. When it comes to hair care, in my opinion, Philip Pelusi products are the Aston Martins of hair care products! He has two product lines P2 by Philip Pelusi and Tela Organics. His products have two fascinating details in hair care that will convert the biggest skeptic in the quality of hair care faster than moisture can convert straight hair frizzy! To simply put it, his products and others like his, have two important aspects where man made and organic meshed together can repair hair and honestly do what the bottle reads. Those two things are USP (United State Pharmacopia) and nano technology. USP simply guarantees that the quality of that ingredient is real and it does what it says. While other companies MARKET, PROMOTE or claim their hair care products can do something, USP assures consumers the ingredients work rather a hair care company markets it or not. The nano technology comes in properly breaking down the organic, natural or man made ingredient in the smallest safest way possible to improve the integrity of hair. All this is done to meet the demands of the time crunched and money conscious consumer. Bam!

Mr. Philip Pelusi, when it comes to hair,
"Everyone has their own unique fabric."

For the record, some organic ingredients have to be synthesized (broken down) so that the hair can readily absorb the varying essence of the source so that hair can actually benefit from it, make it more affordable or simply make it easier to use. It is also to my understanding that the fancy ingredient names can be intimidating to many. Rest assure, the fancy long words are just that. Scientific mumble jumble for the scientist, but to average consumer Tocopherol reads and sounds very toxic. Right? But in regular hair care product junkie language, we simply call it Vitamin E. The average hair care junky thinks Cetearyl Alcohol is like the drying, pungent and strong alcohol that stings very badly when it gets on a cut. Nope, it is actually the fats (that's right...oil) that are hydrogenated (or processed) from vegetable oil that keeps the oil in your hair care products from separating...lol! Ok, one more, Polyquaternium. Ooh, that sounds really toxic. Like it can seep into your skull and cause brain damage. Nope, polyquaternium will not seep into your skull. They are simply a combination of vary sizes of large molecules (hence the prefix poly) that help make your cuticles lie flat. In other words, this ingredient is what gets the tangles out of naps, kinks, knots, hooks, cookcabuds, kitchen and whatever other wretched word we can come up with to describe our tangled tresses! How am I doing, my fellow hair care product junkies?

Alterna's The Science of 10 Conditioner. A new twist on
nano technology that can be used with or with out heat, costs
a tad bit more. But works excellently.

When it comes to hair care, everything is not for everybody. Take advantage of the technology and use the hair care product for the RESULTS you want to see on YOUR unique hair fiber. Again, just because it's old school does not mean it is bad; it just means that it's old... you know; it's played out! A straightening comb is played out, but if you want to get that hair line smooth, I bet you will put that flat iron down and go for what you know!

Keep things simple when it comes to your hair. Stay within your budget, your time frame in which you want to spend on your hair and your ability to create or re-create the look!

How's that for being played out?

Out With a Bang!



Bangs were the "Style Changer"
of 2013!

2013 was a sexy year for hair styles and innoavtion in styling tools were at an all time high! Every blogger likes to end their



year writing a reflection of what got their and the public’s attention the most. To me 2013 was the year of “The Throwback.” Everywhere you clicked, swiped and scrolled you saw accents of the “throwback.” Hairstyles and styling tools did not escape the 2013 buzzword of the year.

This blog hilites 3 areas with the top 5. The 3 areas are the top 5 hair care myths, the top 5 hair care products mixed in with a couple of styling tools and the top 5 hair styles of 2013. Drum roll please…

 

As a cosmetologist and blogger, I get asked some pretty interesting things standing behind that chair, front of my computer screen and phone. And as my Big Ma would say, “If you long enough, you’ll hear a bunch of I nevers!” Big Ma was right, because just when I thought I’ve thought I’ve heard them all; well I never (clutch the pearls)!

The Top 5 Hair Care Myths of 2012 :

• Growing Dandruff
• Cutting your ends makes your hair grow
• Brazilian, Malaysian, Polynesian, Remy and Good hair
• A White stylist can not flat iron a black woman’s hair
• Co-Washing

One by one I will briefly refute these hair care myths:

• Biologically speaking dandruff results in dead fibrin (flakes on the scalp) and there is absolutely nothing stimulating or nourishing from anything that is dead. Second, your blood supply is soley responsible as the best source of nourishment and growth stimulator for your hair.
• Testoterone is responsible for the hair actually growing from the scalp not scissors!
• Brazilian, Malaysian and Polynesian are races. People of the same race do not ALL have the same head of hair; no matter where they live. Good hair? Hair is good if you treat it good.
• A White stylist can flat iron any texture of hair super straiaght provided she has a hot enough pair of flat irons, accompanied with a excellent smoothing balm and skills!
• And my favorite myth of 2013, that interesting oxymoron co-washing. Now if one was to apply conditioner to their hair to their hair first and then shampoo (wash it). I could seriously get with that technique because then the conditioner would literally be acting as assistant to the shampooing (washing) process. But, now to put conditioner or a product labled “co-washing” in your hair and LITERALLY NOT WASH it back out? OOOOOk, would you wash up (I mean co-wash) with lotion?

P2 by Philip Pelusi,
thee "Aston Martin" of hair care.

Next on my Top 5 of 2013 are hair styling products and tools. These gidgets and gadgets took the essence throwback and catapulted them into the next millineum! Here is why…

• 
  
  
  P2 by Philip Pelusi’s Repair Hair. In the spirit of throwback all cosmetologists know that every human hair has 3 layers. The cuticle, cortex and medulla. Well, Repair Hair (when used with heat) penetrates to all three layers and physically repairs them. Now that’s what I call getting back to the basics. This product exceeds the expectations of any stylist who uses it and the customers whose hair is severely breaking or compromised will jump out the chair and hug you. This I know for sure.
• Eufora’s Beautifying Serum for hair. The names says it all. If you are into all the organic, natural, sustaianability wonderfulness, then you and your hair are in for a royal treat!

• 

  Amika a.k.a
  NKOTB

  Amika’s Color pHerfection Shampoo. Throwback at it’s finest. When you look at the packaging on this stuff, you will immediately grab the bottle, start twirling with your hands in the air and start singing, “the age of aquarius!” The technology with the Buckthorn Berry and it’s super duper shining and strengthening capabilities as well as low pH (hence the name pHerfection shampoo) and NO sulfates makes this thee 1970’s Wonder Woman/Shampoo of the year.
• 

  

  The MiraCurl Curling Iron

  The MiraCurl Curling Tool. This thing took me back to the days of Popeye’s, “Oh no, blow me down!” First of of all, it works. Second of all, you can adjust the heat. Third of all, you can change the direction of the curls, Fourth of all, you can adjust the tightnes of the curls. Fifth of all, you know how your hands get tired from twirling that curling IRON? You don’t have to worry about that. Sixth of all, it works on all textures (real and fake). And Seventh of all, it works. Oh, I already typed that!
• The H2pro Professional Ceramic Tourmaline Flat Irons. Talking about “throwback.” Can you say, “Nano-Nano.” Just like Mork from Ork (if you don’t know what I’m typing about; you are too young. Google it)! Now I know, these particular pair of flat irons within the H2pro brand are the NOT the fanciest they make; but-ter-umm, let me tell you, for the hard working stylist behind the chair and the everyday girl who’s got thangs to do; these baby’s are on the O-N-E.  The tourmaline coated ceramic plates along with the control temperature settings makes them one of thee best flat irons of all times. Do I have some of the fancier ones? Yes-sir-ree, I do. But Imma keep it 100, I use the H2pro Professional Ceramic Tourmaline Flat Iron the most.

 

 Now, boiling down to the Top 5 Hair Styles of 2013 were a breeze because nobody style’s hair anymore. As a matter of fact, if it were not for special occassions, I seriously doubt women would want their hair styled any more. As the new generation would type,  #realtalk (lol)! Hairstyles of today kinda remind me of an old song throwback Bugs Bunny use to sing, “Ol gray hare aint what it use to be…” So, though hair styles have changes over the years and yes they are most certainly not what they use to be, in the spirit of styling hair, here goes my Top 5 Hair Styles of 2013:

Jazzmine and her "SWIRLS"

• Soft Loose Bouncy Swirls (thats what I call this hair style and it’s technique). Women love this look because when it falls, it looks like they did it themselves and the look is not too contrived.
• Straight. As Sweet Brown would say, “Ain’t nobody got no time for that.” One of the main reasons women do not want their hair curled, waved, teased, sprayed, spritzed set and coiffured is because we have things to do, places to go, people to meet and food to eat so as a result, “Aint nobody got no time for that.”
• Soft Wave/Loose Curls. Gone are the days of clicking that dang-on marcel iron, twirling that curling iron and sitting under that hot ass dryer. No sir-ree, grab that heated wand, deep wave maker or twirl that flat iron and, “Voila, Sasch Fierce is in the house.” Bow down bi-a-tches! #beyoncerocks (Ok, so I bought the CD!)
• The Au-Naturale any and everthing. The serious 1960 anti-straight, embrace your inner queen, power to the people throwback; pump yo fis

  

  Au Naturale'

  t like dis hair styles! Forget making my hair curl, the natural hairstyles makes my toes curl. They are unisex, androgenous, non classist, anti-aging, omnipresent and everything in between. From bald fades, to twists outs, corn rows, wash and wear, locs, bantu knots; you name it. I am woman, hear me roar. And I do not need you to validate my beauty natural look looks awesome.
• 

  

  Bangs de' FLOTUS!

• And to take this Top 5 2013 blog out with a bang, paying homage to the throwback of them all, Bangs! 2013 was the year of the bang. When First Lady Obama a.k.a FLOTUS a.k.a Michelle Obama celebrated her 49th birthday by accenting her beauty with bangs. It was like Northeatern Ohio’s throwback Thistledown, “every 19 minutes, the place goes crazy!” It was such a sensation, Kelly Rippa wore clip on bangs and introduced her viewers to “Bangs Fridays!” From there, the rest they say is history. Every woman, every girl with every kind of length and texture wanted bangs. The Reverence Design Team Hair Salon where I work were a team of bang fringe cutting sensation! What better way to start a trend than not trying to start one?

The “trend setter, I’m better” First Lady Obama takes my last 2013 blog out with a bang! She continues on in the spirit of “throwback” when being yourself was in and making your mark in the world was what it was all about. 2013 was a spectacular year for me professionally and personally. I wish you all the best in 2014. I encourage you to make some more marks in the new year. Remember, while beauty is skin deep, ugly is to the bone. Everybody’s got a little light under the sun. So... shine*shine*shine!

Happy New Year!