Shedding Hair

Request or nah!

Working behind the chair as a cosmetologist can be similar to working as a DJ behind the turntables. Like DJ's cosmetologists get many requests. And like DJ's we like to fulfill what people are asking. In addition, like DJ's we also get a lil tired of getting requests for the same thing. 

Of all the things I tire of getting requests for, it would be the request to alleviate shedding hair. Shedding and hair breakage is like a classic song that you will have to put up with pretty much for the rest of your life. Currently, I am heavily involved doing research on follicle care. The research is so very interesting and full of splendor! The research is, of course, helping me in my day to day operations as a hair stylist. Recently, The Physiological Reviews Journal reports that “the most important theme in studying the cycling hair follicle is that the follicle is a regenerating system.”

With the scientific fact that the follicle is an organ that has a natural cycle to regenerate itself; like that Fifty Cent song "In Da Club," you are gonna see hair shed and break over and over again just like that song. It is a natural process of the regenerative life cycle of the every hair fiber on your hair. However, when it comes to hair shedding and breaking; one should not see excessive amounts of hair in the comb, in the sink, tub, floor or shower. 

Hair breakage

In order to get a grasp on hair shedding, hair breaking I will expound upon other culprits such as hair thinning and balding/hair loss fall under hair shedding and breakages.

Hair shedding is part of that "regenerating system" I learned about during my research. Your hair lives inside of an organ called a follicle (the tiny whole your hair fibers grow from). Your hair is formed, nourished and grows from a tiny bulb called a papilla. Before your hair becomes the strands you see growing from your scalp it goes through 3 phases. The first phase is the anagen phase which is the actual growing phase. It lasts up to 6-7 years. So that other request of what can I use to make my hair grow? Stop asking. And by all means, please stop buying products that make hair grow. It grows for free. The second phase is the Catagen phase. It is the resting phase that lasts about 2-3 weeks. During this phase, the hair is literally resting and the body is not making any hair. And the last phase is Telogen. This phase lasts 3 months. This is where the hair actually sheds. You will be able to differentiate between a strand of hair that has shed and a strand of hair that has broken. Hair strands that have shed will have little tiny white bulb attached to the strands of hair. On an average, you will see a lil over one hundred strands per day. That would look like about a teaspoon size amount depending on your length. 

Hair shedding

Most people do not understand that all hair fibers do not shed at the same time. Each strand of hair grows from its own follicle (organ). Therefore, they do not all grow and shed at the same rate. It is fair to conclude that at the end of a 7 year, or so cycle, you will have a new head of hair. So, do not panic at the constant shedding; for it is a reflection of new hair that will be growing in. You can woo sah now!

Using too much of anything compromises hair.

Next up is "breaking and snapping hair." The difference between shedding hair and breakage is the bulb. Remember, shedding hair will have the lil tiny white bulb attached. Breakage will not. Breakage is normal as well. Especially if you manipulate your hair frequently. Examples of hair manipulation are combing, braiding, heat styling, sew in's, chemical services, friction from wearing scarves, hats, brushing and the likes. Doing these things aggressively or using the wrong comb/brush are the number two culprit to hair breaking and snapping. In addition, leaving conditioners and super softening agents on your hair too long will cause hair to snap and break. Coconut oil, conditioners, synthetic oils, pomades, silicones mineral oils and petroleum are examples of super softening agents that folk apply when manipulating their hair. Unfortunately, they are typically the culprits to excessive snapping and breakage. Another cause to unwanted hair breakage and shedding are sulfates and sulfate free ingredients that act like sulfates on the hair. Sulfates and sulfate free ingredients are chemicals that most manufacturers use to clean hair. While they are cheap, universal and common in almost every kind of shampoo your money can spend, the side affects are often hair breakage and shedding. They actually speed up the telogen phase of the hair growth process. So buyer beware. Don't be duped by all this fancy sulfate free, natural and unfortunately certain organic ingredients that act like sulfates on your hair. 

Hair thinning is the natural process for all humans as we age. What happens is the follicle (the tiny hole that the hair is growing from) actually shrinks and gets smaller; thus producing hair that is thin, fine, limp, weak and very susceptible to breaking. While aging is a given for all, there is nothing we can do to stop it. However, we can slow it down. The best way to slow down thinning hair is to reduce the heavy products used to care for and style your hair. Use fewer styling products. On an average, you only need a maximum of 3 styling products to produce a beautiful long lasting hair style. If you swear that you need more, then you are most definitely using the wrong shampoos. But that is another blog. Thinning hair can also be hereditary. Therefore, be mindful of what you use and pay attention to your comb and brush when styling your hair to make sure that you are not physically snatching your hair out. Infrequent shampooing will certainly promote thinning hair because you are not getting the blood supply to feed the hair bulb the nourishment that is needed for your hair to grow. So if your are shampooing your every 8 days and beyond; eventually your hair will thin out, grow in weak, snap or break off and you will not see your desired length or density. Heavy products clog the follicle and leave no room for the hair to grow from. Do not apply conditioners or other heavy or thick styling agents to your scalp. Never. Doing so will promote thinning. These products are not formulated to apply directly to your scalp. Doing so typically results in scalp irritation which can promote hair thinning and breakage as well. Dring plenty of water, eat a sound diet, boo-boo and get some rest to promote hair that grows and will be strong as well. Using products that are rich in wheat proteins, keratin, essential oils and herbs are sure to be a winner in seeing noticeable long lasting results for those with issues of breaking, balding, hair loss and thinning hair. 

Infrequent shampooing is sure to promote thinning.

Lastly, is balding and hair loss. Both conditions have a few culprits. For many scalp disorders fueled by compromised immune systems can result in things like varying forms of alopecia, which results in hair loss. Alopecia happens when the communication between cells and hormones become very confused by a compromised immune system that actually sends the wrong message to attack the hair's ability to actually grow. For some this can happen in certain areas on the scalp, for others it is all over the scalp and for some it is every hair on their entire body (eyebrows, eyelashes, armpits and so on). This condition of hair loss is best supervised by a doctor or licensed holistic practitioner. Another culprit to baldness and hair loss is the Demodex mite. I know, "ewe!" Yes, sirree bob. The Demodex mite is a very tiny microorganism that actually eats away at the hair inside the follicle and the hormone DHT (dehydrolyzed testosterone) helps feed the mite as well. While there are many salon quality products claiming to get rid of this bug, research says it is virtually impossible considering it is in your blood system. Therefore, medication, essential oils, and herbs are the only sources that can effectively enter your blood stream and kill off those mites. Wearing hats, scarves and doo-rags help promote the loss of hair through the friction of wearing them. When this mite eats away at hair, your hair is actually growing in thinner; thus making it very weak and fragile. Hats, scarves, and doo rags rub away at the hair and hair loss happens that much faster. 

As you can see hearing the same old request to get answers to why hair sheds can be extensive, The request can get a little boring like getting those same song requests. And much like hearing the same old song, seeing hair in the sink, on the floor, on your clothes and so on is the norm. It is the excessive amount that should concern you. To recap, the likely culprits to excessive shedding are infrequent shampooing, washing hair too much, dehydration, scalp disorders, bacteria and using heavy products. If you listen to your hair and scalp like you listen to your music, you will respond to the request to care for it properly and differently. I guarantee that if you do so, it will be like music to your ears. And we all know what that sounds and feels like!

Cut and Grow

Ends that need to be trimmed.

The other day I was working in the salon. My colleague, Malika came over and showed me an article about the importance having a hair cut. In the beginning, I was very impressed. I was even more impressed that it was written by a licensed cosmetologist. But then. Yep, there is always a but! As I read further into the article, there it was a big fat prevarication (you know; a statement that deviates from or perverts the truth)...LOL! The article read, "cutting hair makes your hair grow." It encouraged readers to schedule their hair cutting appointments so that the magical hair growth could begin. "Malarchy," I say!

Again, the purpose of my Blog Ndogo is to keep things short and sweet. I am not quite sure how often this type of prevarication is in print or spoken, but let me be the first or the second licensed professional to tell you the truth. Cutting your hair makes your hair grow about as much as cutting your fingernails or your grass. It ain't happenin G (in my Flava Flav voice).

Or, hair that needs to be cut (hint: both means the same).

I have no idea of how anyone, especially a licensed cosmetologist, can fathom, justify, explain or even correlate hair growth with cutting. Jenny Bally and Alessandra Foresto of Oprah.com has done some extensive research on the top 5 myths about hair care. They wrote this about the "hair cutting, getting your ends trimmed myth;" "Cutting the ends of your hair DOES NOT affect the follicles in your scalp, which determines how fast and how much your hair grows, says Paradi Mirmirani, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. Hair grows an average of a quarter-inch every month -- whether or not you cut it. Regular trims might make your hair look a little longer, though. Getting rid of split ends reduces hair breakage, and breakage is what makes hair look thinner at the ends (and shorter), says Matt Fugate, a hairstylist at Sally Hershberger Downtown in New York City. Every eight to 12 weeks, ask your stylist to take off the minimum necessary to eliminate split ends." Now I do not how many of you know who Sally Hershberger is, but I suggest you google her. If one of her hair designers as well as myself can honestly admit that cutting hair does not make it grow; what makes those other stylist who says it does right?

Trimming and Cutting ends are synonymous!

For the record dermatology trumps cosmetology on any given Sunday as well as any given anatomical and biological day. While dermatologists may know very little about hair styling; the same can be said about a cosmetologists knowing much about dermatology. In other words, do not confuse the two. Any cosmetologist playing dermatologists in the areas of scalp/skin disorders, scalp/skin diseases, hair growth, hair loss and the likes should not be taken seriously. I mean would you let your dermatologist color your hair, cut it, relax it, braid it, sew or glue in your weave? Of course you would not. And the dermatologist would never offer such a service in their practice. 

Philip Pelusi teaches, "It's now how much you take off that counts..,"

There is no state anywhere in the world that license any hair stylist in the areas of "making hair grow." The FDA has approved very few drugs who can make that claim or their bottles. It is true that vitamin supplements, a well balanced diet, increased circulation by way of scalp massages, far infrared technology and so on can improve the blood supply that is truly responsible for providing the nourishment to promote growth; honestly, that my readers is about the just of it. 

"But how much you leave on." end quote.

Funny thing, if you want your nails or lawn to look nice; what do you do? Get them manicured (trimmed, cut and beautified). The same can be said about a hair cut. Again, while the cut or trim will make either grow both will make your nails, lawn and hair look very nice. Understand there are many consumers who complain that some hair stylists do not know the difference between trimming or cutting a lot or a little; well that is a different blog.

But for now, how is this for cut and grow?

But, I Am Still Thirsty

Ahhh, so refreshing!

I can recall growing up as a kid having moments when I absolutely loved water and I recall moments when I absolutely hated water. For example, as a kid I loved water straight from the faucet. You remember when you use to jump on on the kitchen sink and drink it straight from the faucet and your mother came up and smacked you in the back of the head? Oh, or what about when your cousin or grandma would hold the long green water hose and let you drink it until you almost burst and of course, they would spray you with the hose! Now, there were times when I absoluted hated water as a kid? Drum roll please. The top 3 times I hated water as a kid; bath time. I loathed the street lights too because it meant, “come run your water to take a bath.” I did not like water when I had to take it with a pill. “Really mom, what were you thinkin’?” And, the number one time when I absolutely hated water? You guessed it, when we had no Kool Aid!

“My how you’ve grown!” My Aunt Mary would say. Gone are the days of hated water. Today, I can proudly say I love water. Though I never thought I wold live to see the day I’d pay for it; I love it none the less. In my career as a cosemtologist, I seriously can not think of another leading cause to unwanted hair shedding, hair breakage, limp hair and hair that lacks luster other than water.

While it is true that water provides a great source of hydration to our organs; water offers other benefits and aids to our body’s functions. Water has many benefits to our body and overall health. I did some research to highlight a few benefits of water aids in our health which of course improves hair. Shanna Freeman, a contributing writer for the Mayo Clinic’s brochure on water informs us that water can also do the following: reduce the burden on our kidneys, bladder, liver and spleen by flushing out waste. She also writes that water helps dissolve vital minerals and other nutrients; thus making them accessible to our vital organs. Lastly, she writes that water actually carries nutrients and oxygen to cells in our bodies.

In my line of work, I see dehydration in it’s most interesting form. I see it in the skin and hair. I always teach that hair is actually an appendage of your skin in the form of a fiber called hair. With that fact; lack of water is sure to affect the hair. I have saved my customers hundreds of dollars in unnecessary moisture/protein treatments, medications, haircuts, make-up and more just by encouraging them to drink more water. I even offer my clients discounts when I see that they are drinking more water! When you think of drinking water, think of how those tiny molecules in water really do help those other tiny cells go to the right places in your body to do what they need to do  make you and your hair healthy. When you reduce your water intake or replace it with increased consumption of sugary beverages, alcoholic beverages or none at all; you are doing great harm to yourself.

While there are many theories on how much water to drink, I suggest to double what your normally do if you are not a great fan of drinking water. So for example, I have read many reports that suggest drinking half your weight in ounces. Let’s say you weight 210 pounds; then you should be drinking 105 oz of water. That is the equivalent to a little more than a gallon and a half per day. While many may never drink half their weight in ounces; it is very well worth the deliberate practice to drink more water each day.

To get more water in, I suggest you carry a bottle with you, accept offers on a cup of water, take a bottle of water to the gym and put a bottle or cup of water by your night stand at night. Remember the many benefits of water such as improved health, weight management, lubed joints, cleaner organs, clearer skin and my favorite; strong, shed free and shiny hair.

Bottoms up!