Secrets of the Scalp

"That me in the corner, doing my passion; loosing my religion!"

It has been my passion to help people love their authentic selves via hair from when I was a social worker. My "modus operandi" is via teaching the masses how to do their own hair. At the salon where our work, we have 3 simple steps to help each person reach that goal. First, we never ask, "How would you like your hair styled today?" Instead, we have each potential customer complete a two page questionnaire about their hair. Secondly, we customize their hair care regimen that leads to the last step of teaching home hair care. 

The questionnaire asks a few key questions about hair and the goals one may have for their hair. This blog Ndogo captures the most common goals I read and hear on a daily basis. This blog will also provide simple solutions to those common goals. Drum roll please....

Number one, "I want my hair to be healthy." Healthy hair always and only starts with a healthy body. No hair care product, styling tool or hair stylist can ever make hair healthy. Please do not do business with people claiming to specialize in healthy hair, unless they sell whole foods during your salon visit. A nutritionist is best suited in your quest to have healthy hair. Hair care products, styling tools and hair stylists can ONLY make hair look and feel healthy. Instead of depleting your debit cards to fill your cabinets with hair care and hair styling products and tools that serve no purpose; go to:

• Grocery store. Go to the grocery store and stay out of those middle aisles. Eat whole fresh foods and less process and refined foods. 
• To the gym. Go to the gym. Exercising increases blood flow and carries the oxygen.. Your blood has the vital nutrients to make your hair healthy.
• Drink water. Go drink more water. Water is not only about hydration. Water is the catalyst to help cellular communication. Water helps the cells deliver vital nutrients to other organs throughout your body. The follicle is an organ!
• Sleep. Go to sleep because our bodies rejuvenate while we sleep. The body cannot recover from a day of living when we are up fretting. So close the books, turn off the TV, turn off your phone and go to sleep.
• Bathroom. Yes, go to the bathroom and have a great bowel movement. Yep, you have got to boo boo; move them kits. Bowel movement eliminates toxins in the body from the food we consume, beverages we drink and stuff we apply to our skin. So, please boo boo. And make sure you are boo booing after each meal or at least twice a day.  

Number two, "I want my hair to be longer." Longer hair starts with genetics followed by a clean scalp. The less you clean your scalp, the less blood flow you will have to nourish your hair to make it strong so hair stylist/barber can care for it and make it look nice. Scalps can be cleaned by shampooing at least once to five times a week. Scalps can be cleaned by combing and brushing to loosen flakes on the scalp and increase blood circulation. Combing and brushing also redistributes the natural oils your scalps makes. 

Number three, "I want my hair to be thicker and stronger." Thick and strong hair begins with a clean scalp. Again, blood flow is the key to healthy hair. Not cleansing your hair for days, weeks to months only results in limp hair. I can not tell you how many people have worn hair additions in every facet only to end up with long limp hair that could not be styled. While some people hair may be longer and stronger after wearing hair additions; most do not. Understand your hair is different. Your hair is unique to you. So if you are wearing hair additions to give yourself a break from the stress of hair styling; do not wear them past a few weeks. If you have access to your scalp, use a damp cloth to wipe away the fibrin (or flakes) from the scalp to prevent clogging of follicle (the tiny hole the hair grows from). This promotes a healthy scalp environment for hair to grow.

Helping someone understand how to get "more hair."

Number four, "I want more hair. My hair is limp." Most people confuse density with length. If your hair is fine and limp; growing it longer will not suffice. If you grow "less dense limp hair" long; the result is long limp hair. Density refers to the number of follicles (tiny hole that your hair grows from) have on your scalp. Long hair is not dense hair. Density is assigned to you at about 30 weeks in your moms stomach. So, no product can give you more density.

Number five, "I want my edges to grow back." Your hair line hair is different from the rest of your hair. Your hair line hair is technically called vellus hair (in children), lanugo (baby's hair) or as some people call it, "baby hair." Vellus and lanugo hair typically rub out of a baby's head in about 9 months. Immediately afterward, hair starts to replace it. It is not uncommon for adults and toddlers to keep some of their vellus or lanugo hair slightly around the hairline. Therefore anything that is tight, chemically drying, chemically softening or very hot; results in the loss of the edges. The best solution is to refrain from tight pulling, caustic chemicals and hot styling tools. If your edges have been compromised, you can go see a dermatologist or try burdock oil to revitalize the follicle with the hope hair will regrow.

Scalp care is the secret to nourishing hair. Scalp care promotes blood circulation which leads to healthy hair. Scalp care is the foundation of every hair style you can imagine. If you do not incorporate scalp care into the scope of your hair care; your hair will not look as nice. Your hair will not style as it should. Your hair will not grow in properly. Your scalp will be full of flakes and become itchy. 

The scalp is an opening. The scalp does emit (discharge) yeast. That is your scalp's natural cleansing process. Just as your mouth creates plaque, the ears/belly button make wax, nose make boogers/mucus, anus release bowel, and vagina secretes yeast; the scalp emits yeast. This further validates and highlights the importance of a clean scalp. This is not a "white" or "straight oily hair" people thing; this is a human thing. While some textures do not require shampooing daily; waiting weeks, to months is not best. 

The "secret" revealed.

So, the next time you ask yourself or your hairstylist/barber to give you healthy, longer, thicker, less limp hair and regrow your edges; wash it. That is the secret.

More Hair!

The mighty moon

In the idea world of hair care, it would be nice if all licensed professionals could agree on how to really achieve longer hair. Unfortunately, as with most professions; that is not the case. Because longer, stronger, fuller and thicker hair is a goal for many, this blog will reveal the simplest, most affordable and sensible way of growing hair rather we all agree or not.

In America when we want to give someone the unadulterated truth we say, "the real deal holyfield." In Britain when it comes to giving someone the real unadulterated truth and everything which is necessary, appropriate or possible, the term they use is the "full monty." As a I type this Blog Ndogo on "More Hair," I find giving you the "full monty" is more befitting than "the real deal holyfield." Why?

Because, in order to truly achieve longer, stronger, fuller and thicker hair, "everything which is necessary,

My actual client with REAL long hair!

appropriate and possible" must be shared with you versus the truth. In hair care, truths most times are twisted and vague. To be necessary, appropriate and possible is distinct. Those words will link you to the best solution. Before I actually typed this blog, I thought, pondered and even meditated. 

Even though the solution is rather unorthodox; it is necessary, appropriate and possible that you do it in order to get the best results. So to make a long blog short, the "full monty" on achieving longer, stronger, thicker and more beautiful hair is to care for it during the waxing and waning phases of the moon. What! Yep. 

For example, having your hair cut during the waxing moon phase is best. It is NECESSARY to do so because during the full moon, the blood flows more. Blood flow is the APPROPRIATE and affordable way of growing hair. Blood flow makes it POSSIBLE for hormones to trigger and do their part. Blood flow influences the vital nutrients and minerals that comes from the food we eat and the water we intake to nourish our hair. "Hmmm," ye say?

How could that be? Well, it is no secret that the moon affects the human body by way of influencing our

The full moon, solstices and equinoxes are BEST for growing hair. 

hormones which are responsible for things such as menstrual cycles, blood flow, fertility, emotions and HAIR! There are not too many producers and growers in the world  who would understate the power of the moon and its influence on humans and the earth. As a matter of fact, in agriculture thee ol' Farmers Almanac is one of many arsenals of "must haves" for agriculturists worldwide. They use it to work to their magic to cultivate crops to feed the masses in every nook an cranny of the universe. Even the writers of the Farmers Almanac also duly note that during the waxing (getting fuller) and waning (getting smaller) of the moon is what equally affects both crops and the human body. Astrologers know this, doctors know this, holistic practitioners know this and some hair care professionals (including me!) know this. 

The Morrocco Method International Hair Care Line

If you are interested in getting more of the "full monty" on this ancient, legendary, traditional and customary practice of what is historically called, "Lunar Haircare," there is no one on this planet (who is alive) that can validate, teach and sell you on this than the Hair Shaman himself, Mr. Anthony Morrocco. Mr. Morrocco is also the founder and developer of the quintessential hair care line, Morocco Method International and the Morrocco Lunar Haircut. 

This hair care line is for thee hair care aficionado' in every sense of the term. I encourage all my readers to

Real deal holyfield!

BOLDLY go where no hair care junky has gone before and introduce yourself and hair to the Morrocco Method's lunar hair care system and lifestyle. In brief, the Morrocco Method encompasses a lifestyle of harmony in sync with the moon, a vegan diet, a vegan hygiene regimen and thoughts that are as pure and open to growth and change. Quite challenging you say? Well, if not a lifestyle change is what you are interested in; then using the Morrooco Method as a means of periodically detoxing is a great option or alternative to the boring hair care treatments, diets, chelating (removing of minerals) and clarifying run of the mill stuff that most salons and natural hair care people commonly promote like hair care remedy drones.

Be it world wide, rich or poor, fat or skinny, tall or short, pretty or ugly, long or short; hair care ranks number one for most because adoring ourselves is innate. Do not allow yourself and your hair to go one day longer into the area of unsatisfied. Make your lifestyle, your mindset, your inner beauty, your outer beauty and of course your hair priority one. Check out Anthony Morrocco's Morrocco Method. Get to that next level of inner peace to radiate just as you should. And in the passionate powerful words of Donna and Bridgette...

"Mo hair!"

"Mo hair!" Donna

Cut and Grow

Ends that need to be trimmed.

The other day I was working in the salon. My colleague, Malika came over and showed me an article about the importance having a hair cut. In the beginning, I was very impressed. I was even more impressed that it was written by a licensed cosmetologist. But then. Yep, there is always a but! As I read further into the article, there it was a big fat prevarication (you know; a statement that deviates from or perverts the truth)...LOL! The article read, "cutting hair makes your hair grow." It encouraged readers to schedule their hair cutting appointments so that the magical hair growth could begin. "Malarchy," I say!

Again, the purpose of my Blog Ndogo is to keep things short and sweet. I am not quite sure how often this type of prevarication is in print or spoken, but let me be the first or the second licensed professional to tell you the truth. Cutting your hair makes your hair grow about as much as cutting your fingernails or your grass. It ain't happenin G (in my Flava Flav voice).

Or, hair that needs to be cut (hint: both means the same).

I have no idea of how anyone, especially a licensed cosmetologist, can fathom, justify, explain or even correlate hair growth with cutting. Jenny Bally and Alessandra Foresto of Oprah.com has done some extensive research on the top 5 myths about hair care. They wrote this about the "hair cutting, getting your ends trimmed myth;" "Cutting the ends of your hair DOES NOT affect the follicles in your scalp, which determines how fast and how much your hair grows, says Paradi Mirmirani, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at the University of California, San Francisco. Hair grows an average of a quarter-inch every month -- whether or not you cut it. Regular trims might make your hair look a little longer, though. Getting rid of split ends reduces hair breakage, and breakage is what makes hair look thinner at the ends (and shorter), says Matt Fugate, a hairstylist at Sally Hershberger Downtown in New York City. Every eight to 12 weeks, ask your stylist to take off the minimum necessary to eliminate split ends." Now I do not how many of you know who Sally Hershberger is, but I suggest you google her. If one of her hair designers as well as myself can honestly admit that cutting hair does not make it grow; what makes those other stylist who says it does right?

Trimming and Cutting ends are synonymous!

For the record dermatology trumps cosmetology on any given Sunday as well as any given anatomical and biological day. While dermatologists may know very little about hair styling; the same can be said about a cosmetologists knowing much about dermatology. In other words, do not confuse the two. Any cosmetologist playing dermatologists in the areas of scalp/skin disorders, scalp/skin diseases, hair growth, hair loss and the likes should not be taken seriously. I mean would you let your dermatologist color your hair, cut it, relax it, braid it, sew or glue in your weave? Of course you would not. And the dermatologist would never offer such a service in their practice. 

Philip Pelusi teaches, "It's now how much you take off that counts..,"

There is no state anywhere in the world that license any hair stylist in the areas of "making hair grow." The FDA has approved very few drugs who can make that claim or their bottles. It is true that vitamin supplements, a well balanced diet, increased circulation by way of scalp massages, far infrared technology and so on can improve the blood supply that is truly responsible for providing the nourishment to promote growth; honestly, that my readers is about the just of it. 

"But how much you leave on." end quote.

Funny thing, if you want your nails or lawn to look nice; what do you do? Get them manicured (trimmed, cut and beautified). The same can be said about a hair cut. Again, while the cut or trim will make either grow both will make your nails, lawn and hair look very nice. Understand there are many consumers who complain that some hair stylists do not know the difference between trimming or cutting a lot or a little; well that is a different blog.

But for now, how is this for cut and grow?

You Could Pay More. But Why?

For a mere $167.00

There you sit over lunch with your best friend. You look at your watch and say, "Ooh, I gotta go. I have to catch the salon before it closes to get my shampoo and conditioner!" Your best friend responds, "I don't know why you spend so much money on your hair care products. Those fancy salon products are no better than what is being sold at Walmart and the local beauty supply store."

The verdict on rather salon products are better than over the counter products is still out in my professional opinion. "Now, wait! Just hold on a cotton pickin' minute!" Is the typical response when I say that. The name of my salon is "The Reverence Design Team." And reverence means to hold in the highest regards. With that being typed, I am honestly one of those ethical professionals. While my goal is to make money like any other business person, I'd much rather do so ethically versus shiesty. You could pay more, but why; you ask?

A whopping $3.00 gets you over 12 oz.

Honestly, salon products are not better than over the counter. But, what they are is different. Whenever my customers asks me what makes them so different and if they should ditch their products to buy what I am using on their hair. My response is always, "If it works; use it!" If a customer walks in the salon with hair on their head and is using over the counter products, honestly; who am I to tell her to ditch her products for my fancy salon products? Now, if the hair on her head was compromised, I would. I would not encourage her to change unless she just wanted to buy something different.

There are three things to consider if you wanna pay more or less. The first is your unique hair fabric. All women of the same race, ethnicity or gene pool  do not have the same hair. Just because some of us are of the same race, are cousins, sisters, moms and dads does not translate into the SAME. So trying to make your wavy hair curly like that Black woman on YouTube or like your cousin's hair whose is just like yours will not happen. And just because the bottle says for "textured" or/and "natural" hair does not mean it is for your texture. Textured hair does not translate into the "same." As for natural, if it is on your head it IS natural. It does not matter if it chemically altered or not. Chemically altered hair is just that,: chemically altered. Not natural means a wig or weave. It can be chemically altered, but it is still on your head naturally!

The second is price. Just because something is expensive does not mean it is good or better. It simply means it cost more. Likewise, just because something is inexpensive does not mean that it is bad or worse. It simply means that it is inexpensive. The price of the product is determined by what is in it, the technology used and the packaging. If your hair does not require all of those fancy ingredients, modern technology and packaging; then buy something that has no fancy ingredients, very little technology and no packaging at all. It will definitely work it's magic just the same.

$250.00 to grow your hair back. You are worth it, right?

The third is advertisement. The last thing one should do when investing in hair care products is look at who is in the picture, magazine or on TV. Come on people, Reality TV is not real and neither is advertisement. When a client brings in a photo, video, infomercial or even a person (yes, people actually bring in people...lol), I listen very intently. As soon as they finish, I remind them in my Chris Brown voice, "She ain't you!" No need in setting someone up for failure. That would not be very reverency, now would it? If you want your hair to look like someone else's; get a wig. The chances of me giving you Beyoncé's hair color, Jennifer Aniston's cut and Jill Scotts texture is like winning the mega millions. I could convince you when I'm done that your color looks "like" Beyoncé's and you could believe if you want.

Readers please keep in mind that hair care companies, hair salons and hair stylists are not only in the business of making hair look and feel great; we are all in the business of making money. Most
American business use plenty of fear in their sales pitch to get you to spend. I know you have heard something similar to: "If you don't go to; then. Or, if you don't buy; then." Those contingency sales pitches are just that; contingencies. Also, in America the price of something can tell you just how good something is or is not. It can tell you how foolish you are or is not. So buyer beware.

This could be yours, if the price is right! $1.99

If what is on the bottle does not read almost to the word of what you say your hair needs; then do not buy it. If you do not know your hair texture, type and the condition of it; visit a professional hair stylist for a consultation to find out. Do not turn to YouTube or to this blog to find out. Textures, types and the condition of your hair can not be determined via reading, looking at pictures, TV or videos. I re-type; textures, types and the condition of your hair CAN NOT be determined that way. Hair has to be examined in person by a trained cosmetologist.

So to answer the adage, "You could pay more; but why?" The honest answer? Hair care products are like cars. An Aston Martin Rapide will get you downtown just like a Ford Escort. The question is, how do you want to arrive?

Combs, Rakes & Pics Oh My!

I recall when I was in high school I had to take this elective class called “Think.” I remeber looking at my schedule (the one I did not make) and thought to myself, “What kind of class is this? I mean aren’t we already thinking?” I asked the counselor about the class and what it meant. He summed it up by telling me that the class was designed to improve my “critical thinking skills.” “Oooooookay!” was my response. While I don’t recall everything about the class, one think I do remember, was learning about analogies. As a cosmetologist,  I now use analogies all the time to help my clients “think” differently about how they care for their hair care thus making learning how to do it at home a lot more easier to comprehend and practice upon leaving the salon.

In 2011, Susan Yara, a writer for Forbes Magazines reports, “the PBA (Professional Beauty Association) reports the average price for a hairstyle in the United States is $45.00.” Considering many salons charge double that amount,  that makes the cost of many hair styles sizeable investments and to me that changes the way licensed professionals should do business. I began to see early on the paradigm shift in hair care move from one simple request to getting “my hair did” for the day to to what are your doing to my hair. To me that translates into, “how do I protect my investment?”

After I service a client, I always send them home with a comb. But not just any comb. The proper comb. Why the comb? Because, it all starts with the comb, rake or pick; oh my! That is right. Nothing undo’s the efforts of costly salon visit than a cheap comb. Nothing will rip, tear and snap hair than the wrong comb. And nothing will detangle, un-matt or reduce the tangling and tears than no comb at all.

Why the comb? Going back to that “Think” class, I will use an analogy to drive in why. A comb is to your hair what a broom is to the floor. Still don’t get it? Here is another one, A comb is to your hair what a toothbrush is to your teeth. (I know you bobbin’ your head cuz I can see ya!) Yeah, you get it now. If you have ever tried to sweep the floor with a cheap broom; it won’t collect the debris. And If you have ever attempted to brush your teeth with a over-used toothbrush; you will quickly reach in your “for guest only” stash of toothbrushes and crack that baby open as if it was a “break in case of emergency seal!”

The main purpose of a comb is to clean and detangle hair by way of removing hair that has completed its growth cycle so that new hairs can come in and to remove hair that is broke to reduce snarling and tangling. If you use the wrong comb or an inferior comb on your tresses (chemically altered or not), the result is unwanted damage, loss of length and/or irritated scalp.

Comb out Comb

There are basically 3-4 types of combs that have varying purposes. The first is a comb out comb or Afro comb. These combs should be made of rubber or a sturdy plastic. Rubber/plastic combs are easier to sanitize, they do not break and they glide easily through most textures (curly, kinky, wavy and straight), density ( the numbers of hair fibers per cubic inch) and length (how long the hair is) provided you have a great conditioner or detangler on your hair. Combs made of other materials or metals typically break or can not effectively detangle more dense thick heads of textured hair.  The second is the, long tooth comb out comb. This comb is shaped the same as the regular comb out comb and is best when made of rubber or plastic. This comb is the best for long, very dense and very textured heads of hair. The long teeth are the secret to an ouchless detangle and the long teeth on the combs can detalngle those hair textures and length. The third comb is a “all purpose” comb. It also known as a barbers comb. This comb is best for relaxed sleek styles. The all purpose come is also great for wrapping your hair, smoothing ponytails or combing bangs. The fourth comb is the “Pin Tail or Rat Tail” comb. This comb is excellent for parting hair to curl, flat iron or roll hair. The pin or rat tail comb is also use to section hair for chemical relaxing hair to make the suggested partings. These combs are best when made of plastic. The fifth comb is the “Rake” comb. The “rake” comb is best to create texture on thermal curled or roller set styles. Do not use wide or “rake” combs to detangle hair or use them as everyday combs. Remember the analogy above. A comb is to your hair what a broom is to the floor. And with that being written, ask yourself would you sweep your floor with a rake or would you use a broom? Ah ha, still bobbin’ yo head!

Well, that concludes my blog on combs rakes and picks; oh my! Be sure to take all this into consideration as you think about the investment spent on your tresses.