The People Have Spoken

Healthy hair is the buzz word in hair care. Hairstyles have taken a back seat to hair care. Hairstyles are somewhat played out. Artificial hair, human hair extensions, braided hairstyles, protective hairstyles and wash & wear hair are the latest trend in the hair salons. Why sit and pay to have your hair styled, when you can buy it already complete? The paradigm shift in beauty business began with the internet go to

Throwback

 browser guru, "Ask Jeeves." This was back in the day of good old fashioned, "dial-up" Internet. When Yahoo and AOL would send you a CD in the mail for you to install to go online! During that era, people were pretty much using the internet to download music files from Napster. Then they began going online to ask questions. So while people were being quiet about what they wanted to know others were being loud about what they knew. They then shared that knowledge (fact or fiction) online. 

After music; school stuff, recipes and images seemed to be what was shared and searched over the internet. Quickly and simulataneously, researchers started to notice how the internet surfers were surfing for more than superficial information. They were surfing for pertinent things such as medical information, history, religion, shopping, travel and of course; hair care. Hair care ranked high in search engines searches, proving to be on the minds of millions worldwide.

While customers were secretly online getting the grapes on the behind the scenes of the beauty industry, hairstylists were standing behind their chairs bragging about being the last of the careers where humans touching humans still existed. With the increased use of automated everything from phone calls to self-checkout lanes, from gas pumps to auto teller machines; cosmetologists sincerely and arrogantly believed the human touch would save them from technology.  They felt their "old-fashioned" human touch would secure their place in the workforce. They believed the human touch would keep their pockets fat and the freebies coming. They believed the human touch would hide their lack of knowledge of how soap, hair color, heat, medicine and the not so popular "creamy crack" relaxer work on hair. They believed the human touch could hide all the flaws of being an out of touch licensed cosmetologist. 

Then along came, the "pat yo weave." Yep, that statement was the turning point in hair care and hair styles for the beauty industry. Beyonce's "Put a Ring on It," was the video sensation of the decade and it drove women to the internet like crazy. They were not only searching for the video. They wanted to know the behind the scenes secrets to the video maven's sensational weave. Shortly afterwards, the comedian, Chris Rock caused more ripples in the waves. His whistle-blowing documentary, "Good Hair" had more women surfing the internet for answers to hair care. The documentary was inspired by the phrase, "good hair."  "Good hair" is an African American term used within certain cultures of African Americans that define it as hair that is softer, shiner, more manageable and longer. It was "good hair" that his young daughter was longing for. In an attempt to get to the just of "good hair," Chris Rock made the comedic documentary. The documentary captured African American women's obsession to have "good hair." It revealed how African Americans were willing to pay any price to have "good hair." Be it fake or chemically altered. The documentary also revealed the behind the scenes foolishness of what was taking place within the industry as it related to hair salons and product manufacturing. From the high end to the mom and pop shops, from the homemade to the manufactured; he exposed plenty. So to the point that the chemical relaxer hair straightening ingredient; sodium hydroxide, was getting lambasted by people in the documentary. 

Interestingly funny!

"Put a Ring on It" and "Good Hair" sent salon customers by the millions to the internet. In the meantime, hairstylists were probably among the last of the professionals to cross over and accept the changes technology by way of the internet was bringing to every career. Rather you touch humans or not, the internet had arrived and was making its mark. The beauty industry had not choice but to change its course just like the republicans did in politics here in America.

Hair stylists like the republican party were caught off guard by the changing course. The overwhelming demand from consumers who wanted a hairstylist who felt their struggle was what hair care and hair styling was all abut. Many did not have the answer, but the internet did. The years of questioning why their hair was thinning. The yearning to know the difference between black hair and white hair. The longing for more hair. Longer hair, thicker hair fuller hair. The constant up-selling of retail and hair treatments that never really worked.The plea for why their hair color was fading and their hairline going bald was on the minds of millions worldwide. Hair stylists; like Jeb Bush, Ted Cruz, John Kasich and the likes could not deliver. However, the internet and its ever evolving social  media could. 

The internet became to salon customers what Donald Trump became to the republican party. An outlier. Salon customers are constantly asking, "What about us? What can you hairstylists do for people like us?"

With emphasis, on the African American salon customers, the internet removed the African American hairstylist from the equation of hair care. Don't smirk, because hairstylists of other ethnicities are too being replaced with the empathetic, 24 hour, zany brainy internet and all of its social media avenues. Not that salon customers were looking for a hair care and hair styling hero; however, they were looking for solutions that could help in the spirit of "a means to the ends." Sure a hair stylist can be used to style hair, but then so can one's cousin at home in the kitchen! Just like the status quo in politics had to go in the republican party, so did the status quo salon experience. When you add the belief in "human touch" rhetoric within in the beauty industry, customers from every ethnicity with every hair type, stopped buying it.

So the hair salon industry began to suffer. At first, it was hair salons. Then it was booth renters, followed by independent contractors. Now it's Salon Lofts. Many salon owners are jumping on the "Loft" concept. Things that make you go hmmm. The hair salons along with their self-anointed self-employed hair stylists could not figure out why none of their marketing for the "best" salon services was no longer working. So like the republicans; salon owners, hair stylists and their customers split. 

Just as rural, working class and the electoral college of America voted for the reality TV star, Donald Trump for their president, salon customers voted for the Internet and social media as their hair care and hair styling go to avenue. Customers were fed up. They grew tired of paying hairstylists who used relaxers and other chemicals for years without question. They grew antsy with the industry following trends created by consumers instead of trends created by hair stylists. A la, "The Natural Hair Movement." When the maker of "Wen" products, Chaz Dean failed to deliver on the claims of his sulfate-free line of hair care products; the people were done with the dumb "human touch" theory. They stopped looking up to hair stylists and began looking down into their smart phones.

Amusingly, hair stylists had the unmitigated gall to be shocked that the "recession proof" career was feeling the pull from the "click." The click of the mouse on the computer. Just as America was stunned with votes of the electoral college to elect Donald Trump on November 9th as their president, 

Funny, the same thing is happening is salons across America. The customers have dumped the hair stylist and the hair salon. They want a better candidate. Who cares if it's a human or not? They like the YouTuber with that up close shot of products with their hand in the background. They love the Instagram self-ascribed hairstylist who gives better tips from their not so clean bathrooms than the hair stylist in the fancy salon spa or the ones that specialize in natural hair. They simply adore the Facebook page of the person who boldly posts they are doing hair without a license; even if the words are spelled wrong and the grammar is incorrect. The paying consumer has voted. They want a hair stylist who "feels" them.

Well, I feel them too! I built my entire career off the paradigm shift of salon customers who wanted a hair stylist who felt them. A hair stylist who taught the truth about hair care. You know, an "HW-N-A" (hair stylist with NO attitude). A hair stylist who is honest. A hair stylist who cares. Do you notice, there is no mention of a hairstyle in that scenario? In addition, I quickly noticed how salon customers hated hair stylists and hair salons who were status quo. Just like those republican voters and the electoral college hated the status quo republican politician and their liberal politics. I was not from the beauty industry. Therefore, I was not jaded. However, as an outsider with the mind of an outlier, I entered the industry with excellent deductive reasoning skills. I could clearly see the fall of the hair salon, hair stylists, and overrated hair care products at the behest of the internet. 

I observed many  salons, cosmetologists and hair care manufacturers who had the notorious "know it all" and the, "I have a license and you don't" demeanor. That demeanor became status quo. The demeanor spoke volumes that demeaned costumers. The demeaning was done via long waits, price fluctuations, racism, whites only do whites and the blacks on do blacks.  Really? The lack of proficiency in the use of chemicals. The attire, abuse of drugs, alcohol and cigarette breaks. Those status quo behaviors had to go. The high end salons against the mom and pop salons. The celebrity stylist against the regular stylist and so on. Why the split? After all, aren't we the last of the professionals who have the competitive advantage of the "human touch??

The media is saying Hilary Clinton and the democratic party were not on the pulse of the people. I disagree. Hillary and the Democratic party is on the pulse of the democratic voters. But the democrats and the democratic voters could not influence the republicans who ruled the house. Something about those shooting was too challenging for White America to stop, politics, laws and all. In reality, the status quo republican party was not on the pulse of the republican voters and the electoral college. So they voted for someone who was not a status quo republican. 

The salon industry is not about hair styles. Just as politics are not about voting. The salon industry is all about caring for hair and styling hair with safe practices that promote public safety via their laws around public safety and sanitation. Just as politics is all about what is best for the community and the country at large. 

Again, politics are not about popular votes contrary to popular belief. And being a licensed cosmetologist is not about the ability to do hair, skin or nail service. Neither is holding a public office. Donald Trump did not have to have any experience to run for president. Neither does a regular person wanting become a professional cosmetologist. While the average consumer believes a certain level of proficiency is guaranteed of all licensed hairstylist; there is none. Unfortunately, hair stylists do not have to demonstrate any level of "knowing" as it relates to how to curl, apply a weave, formulate hair color and so on. We do what's called, OTJT (on the job training). So it is fair to conclude that a licensed cosmetologist within the salon industry is about as authentic as an experienced  republican politician who can run the country. 

Consumers in the salon industry have always wanted more than a hair style. There was an unspoken agreement that at some point the questions of the who, what, when, where, why and how would eventually be answered and explained by cosmetologists. That has not happened. Cosmetologists who hide behind the, "I have a license and more clock hour than a paramedic" statement are losing their customers to the internet (YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest and the likes) just like the political hopefuls did to the electoral college.

Voters have primary concerns they want politicians to address, not just give rhetoric to. The same can be said for consumers in the salon industry. 

Beauty professionals, like the status quo republican politicians, fool themselves when they believe people elect them for the obvious (IE, whatever it is they get paid to do...lol!"  Many licensed professionals believe customers are coming to the salons for a hair, nail or/and facial service. They are not. The performance on the internet via social media is proving that customers are turning to the internet for hair care and hair styling solutions. A large number of hair stylists and other licensed beauty professionals have dropped the ball in teaching and reaching the masses who sit in their chair. They overlook the obvious. They believe Walmart, Target, drugstores, African hair braiders, Dominican blowout salons and Salon Lofts are their competition. There is no real competition within the beauty industry among licensed professionals. The hair manufacturers have seen to that. There is truly nothing distinct between a salon shampoo and an over the counter one; give or take an ingredient here or there.  So now what?

Wait, what just happened?

The beauty industry needs to get AHEAD of the program. When the answers and solutions can become unified from the many licensed professions representing the industry, we will then be able to have a voice with clear directions and solutions to offer to the masses within the beauty industry to meet their needs at home as well as in the salon. Licensed beauty professionals need to represent. They need to keep themselves educated and constantly retrained to meed the every changing needs and growing demands of the customers or potential customers who sit in their chair or visit their salon. If not, they will loose to an outlier called, "artificial intelligence." Don't laugh, your phone can do things a human can not do quicker and cheaper. The internet has a www (worldwide web) at the dispose of anyone who want to enter it with just one click regardless of race, sex, political affiliation, education, money and the likes. Hair salons, licensed beauty professionals; you have been warned. 

Until then, the paradigm shift is shifting as you read this blog. Like those in republicans in rural, working class, and the electoral college of America have spoke; so are the consumers in the beauty industry.

Do you hear anything?

Growing Hair

"I see the bad moon rising," a popular song from back in the 60's that was sung by Credence Clearwater Revival. It is also the first song that comes to my mind whenever I hear anything about the moon and whenever I see the moon rising. 

Anthony Morrocco is the Master Hair Shaman who
developed this Lunar Chart to aid in hair care and
hair growth.

The moon is mystic and magical. It pretty much captures you whenever you look at it. It does some amazing things. For example, it changes colors, it makes the waves rise and fall. It helps the crops grow, it acts as an indicator for becoming pregnant and it even helps your hair grow. Yep, that moon is bad; bad to the bone. 

In spite of its splendor and beauty, many people underestimate the moon. Many do not understand the moon and its influence on the human body. Since the beginning of time, mankind has used the moon to their advantage to do things that are humanly impossible. How does the moon, that is way up in the sky, have the ability to impact and influence what is going on in the ground, in the water and in our bodies?

Simple, it is the gravitational to and fro pull from the moon that shifts, moves, lifts, lowers and stirs what truly makes the world go round; life force. The moon has mystical powers to help what we put into the ground to feed the masses of people worldwide, possible to grow. In humans, the moon is responsible for increased blood flow, decreased blood flow and hormonal activity; all of which are directly related to our physical and mental health. 

"Hmmm," ye say? Yes, the moon is really bad, a b-b-b bad to the bone! It is amazing how it works. It is interesting how we can utilize the force of the moon to aid in improving or maintaining our physical health. The human body is 75% water. The theory is, just as the moon's gravitational pull affects the water here on earth, it also affects the water inside humans. 

Another theory behind the moon and it's effect on humans is how when women menstruate. In theory, the menstrual cycle in reproductive-age women lasts about 28 days, which is similar to the length of a lunar phase (29 days and change). In a  2011 study in the journal Acta Obstetricia et Gynecologica Scandinavica tracked the menstrual cycles of 826 women. The study showed how nearly 30% of the women started their menstruation near the time of the full moon. 

Going back in time. It was during some time in 1930, a prominent doctor named, John Billings developed the "Rhythm Method." This was a form of natural birth control for those whose religion forbid them to take any form of synthetic or manmade birth control to prevent unwanted pregnancy. The concept around the "Rhythm Method" was directly related to when a woman ovulates, her body temperature and the moon. While it very intricate, many women incorporated this practice into their scope of "fertility awareness." In brief, the "Rhythm Method" suggests that up to 12 days before a woman menstruates, ovaries begin to ovulate as she becomes more fertile, her body temperature rises as she becomes physically ready (or horny...lol) for relations with the intent to conceive. If she does not want to become pregnant, then she should refrain from sexual activity during this time. 

Keep in mind, the theory about the concept of the moon and it's effect on the human body is just that a theory. However, it is a theory that many, including, myself believe because I personally experience them and I witness the theory in live action during my line of work daily. 

If you want to grow your hair, adjust your hair care to be in sync with the moon for optimal results. In theory, as the moon waxes or becomes full, there is an increase in blood flow and hormonal activity. Blood flow is responsible for nourishing your hair. The hormonal activity of testosterone is directly responsible for growing your hair. So cut your hair when the moon is waxing because increased blood flow and hormonal activity will grow the hair back faster.

Hormonal Activity

In the instance of not wanting to promote hair growth as a result of shaving, waxing, hair coloring and the likes, perform these grooming activities during the waning of the moon. It is during the waning of the moon when blood flow and hormonal activity slows. Therefore, shaving, waxing and having your hair colored during the waning phase of the moon would result in longer lasting results because in theory the hair is growing slower.

So, rather you want to maintain your mental health, become pregnant or grow your hair; the waxing (growing full) and waning (becoming small) of the moon might be where you want to turn your attention to achieve them all. 

Growing your hair and having it healthy does not have to be difficult or expensive. While this is a theory, you have to admit, it does give you something to think about. The practice of infrequent shampooing and never cutting your hair will not give you the result of strong hair. Of course, your hair will grow rather you cut it under a full moon or not. The concept behind lunar hair care is optimal RESULTS. If you want to see the results of hair care, then incorporate lunar hair care into your scope of hair care for improved results. 

A good regimen to follow to promote growth and see the results within a year is to incorporate these steps:

Picture your hair like this as you shampoo and style it.
Don't look at those images on social media and YouTube;
they will trick you...lol

• Pre-clean your scalp with Decca Plus' Scalp Therapy or 2 oz of EVO (extra virgin olive oil) infused with 5 drops of peppermint oil.
• Apply the night before and massage vigorously to detox the follicle (the tiny hole your hair grows from).  
• Shampoo hair every 3-4 days fine less dense heads of hair
• Shampoo hair every 4-6 days medium to medium dense heads of hair
• Shampoo hair every 5-7 days medium to thick dense heads of hair
• REPEAT and lather hair at least 2-3 times
• Apply conditioner to ENDS of hair first. Do not apply conditioner to scalp area first. Doing so will clog follicle and prevent hair from growing from it.
• Comb conditioner through.
• Apply Extreme Daily Protein Treatment by Philip Pelusi. It is one of the best protein treaments that does NOT coat the hair. Instead, the molecules are tiny enough to be absorbed to the cortex (where the strenght of the hair is) to revitalize weak hair and rebuild the cuticle (outer layer of hair). 
• Let it stay on the hair for at least 3 minutes.
• Rinse hair thoroughly in warm water.
• Apply a leave in conditioner.
• Apply favorite water soluble styling agent.
• Style your hair to your desire.

Remember to refer to Anthony Morrocco's lunar hair chart to schedule your hair cuts quarterly. 

Now you too will be singing, "I see the bad moon rising" as you care for your hair!

The Top 10 Do's and Don'ts of Hair Care

Drum roll please!

There is something about rules that tempts the average bear to break them. If you look around to observe, you will notice how certain drivers slide through the "Stop" signs, a customer will walk right up to the next checkout counter as others wait patiently in a single file line or my favorite...eating the grapes in the grocery store! We all know what the rule are.

Being a stickler to rules are often enforced by teachers, family members, police officers and so on. But no one enforcers rules like a mother. Who can remember the old golden rule, "You can fool some of the people some of the time, but you can't fool mom?" Now that I am a mother, I must admit, I enforce rules like no other. And if I thought enforcing rules at home was something else, nothing prepared me for the ultimate in enforcing like enforcement at the hair salon. And just as you can't fool mom, you also can not fool the hair stylist.

Hairstylists are always offering tips; giving up the do's and don't of hair care. Just the other day a customer revealed to another hairstylist that they were doing something to their hair at home that we suggested they not do. Then, as you guessed it, other customers chimed in, "I didn't know that. I do that too!" We were all floored. So one of the customer's blurted out, "You should write us a do and don't list." No problem and no fooling. So, without further ado, below outline the top ten do's and don'ts in hair care....again!

Drum roll please,

Top 10 Don'ts:

1. Put a plastic (or any shower cap) on your hair when you shower. The moisture will convert you relaxed, natural, smoothed, or set hair style. You are creating a sauna on your head with the plastic cap and the oils from your hair. Thus causing the hair to swell and  revert. Instead wrap your wrapped or unwrapped hair in a towel. The towel will absorb the moisture from the steam. Don't wear any kind of cap on your hair. Feel free to open the door or window to let out the steam.
2. Flat iron or attempt to curl hair when it has not been shampooed in over 7 days. The heat will cook your hair along with the dirt. So don't do this.
3. Co-Wash. Do not co-wash. That is like attempting to wash with lotion. Lotion does not clean skin. There is no such conditioner that cleanses hair or should be used in lieu of shampoo.
4. Wait too long to shampoo your hair. The average head of hair should be cleansed within 4 to 10 days. The longer you wait, the more difficult it will be to style your hair, especially if you are over 35 years of age.
5. Cut your hair monthly. If you want longer hair, cutting it monthly will almost always cut your 1/4th inch that you just grew back out. So try cutting it every 2-3 months using the Lunar Hair Cutting System. Google the Morroccan Method...he has it down to a science.
6. Purchase products that read for "Women of Color" or "Black Hair." People of the same race do not have the same hair texture and type. Instead, purchase your products according to the results you want to see and feel on your hair. Words like: rejuvenating, repair, fortifying, shine, manageable, volume, smooth, de-frizz and so on are wise purchases. You will also get a better bang for your buck.
7. Turn down the heat. If straight hair is what you are after, then you will need heat. You will need high heat to smooth hair to ensure that it will not convert back. Don't use low or medium heat to flat iron, curl or soft press hair. Doing so will cause hair to revert and break. Speak to your stylist or read the manufacturers instructions on how high the heat should be for your unique hair fabric.
8. Share products. Do not share hair care products with friends and family members. Remember what will work on their hair may not work on yours and vice versa.
9. Not combing your hair. If you are wearing a smooth and sleek style, it is imperative to comb your hair frequently throughout the day. The less you comb it; the regrowth will swell and convert thus making the hair more susceptible to breaking at the demarcation line. Be sure to comb your hair frequently throughout the day. Frequent combing also re-distributes oils and products throughout hair.
10. Apply hair weave straight from the package to your hair. Artificial and human hair are often treated with some serious chemicals. Those chemicals often irritate. Try lightly misting the hair with a little vinegar and water mixture to reduce irritation.

A little snare please, 

Top 10 Do's

1. Drink plenty of water. Healthy hair comes from within. There is no hair stylist, hair care product or styling tool that can make hair healthy. Instead, they make hair look and feel healthy. Water is a catalyst that gets everything going and working together. So please drink water.
2. Boo Boo. That is right! Nothing promotes growth like healthy bowel movements. Hair like skin reflects the inner working of the body. So move them kits. Eat properly to promote regular healthy bowel movements.
3. Exercise. Read #2
4. Wrap your hair at night. If smooth hair is what you are after, then wrapping your hair at night will keep tresses tamed and smooth. This will also make re-styling in the morning easier.
5. Take advantage of treatments that are scalp specific. The scalp is the foundation of beautiful shiny performing hair. Products such as Decca Plus, P2 by Philip Pelusi and Phyto are my favorites.
6. Invest in products that fit your budget. Salon products are not better than over the counter. If it works; use it.
7. Eat your way to stronger longer hair. Foods are the ultimate source to nourish hair. 
8. Take supplements. If your diet is restricted or if you are a vegan and the likes, supplements can help nourish hair. Understand whole food sources are best. Supplements can help.
9. Use protein. Humans are lean mean protein making machines. Hair is included in that. Under a microscope the varying strands of hair have tiny scales called cuticle layers. Those layers are what hair is mostly comprised of. The second layer is the cuticle. The cuticle layer is where the integrity and strength is. So using quality proteins are best. My favorite proteins are P2's Daily Hair Rx, Decca Plus' Satin Tame and Infusium 23 Original Formula.
10. Invest in a great shampoo. Hair care is like skin care and fabric care. In skin care and fabric care, what is the  most important? Soap and detergent or lotion and fabric softener? Soap! 

That concludes my list of Top Ten. Please print and clip this list. If you have any questions, email me, call me (216-321-1101) or find me on any of the social networks. I gotchu...

Love, peace and hair grease!

White Girl Hair

Erase racism. 

Can you believe during this day and time racial turmoil continues to be one of the greatest social ills world wide? You can not help but to wonder, why is the complexion and color of someone's skin really getting certain folk all in a tizzy? After all, at the end of the day we are all humans of some sorts. 

When one thinks of racism, the stereotypical images that comes to mind are those black and white images from the 50's and 60's where there were signs everywhere that read, "No Coloreds Allowed," "For Whites Only," or water hose and dogs attacking protesters and the likes. Some other stereotypical images are those of Black men being beaten and choked by White police officers, or Black people beating up on white people, or when certain people look at people with slanted eyes and dark hair and call them all Chinese. As if only three color hues exists. If one was to turn on the tv, pick up a magazine or newspaper, unfortunately it would b easy to conclude that racism is here to stay; at least for a while. But, we can change that. 

In the beauty industry, the theories of genotypes of race are constantly being challenged. If by nothing but the varying textures we see on people's hair from varying ethnicities and races world wide. Yet, the number one question that comes to most people's mind when they see someone whose image does not fit their opinion of how that person should look is.."What ethnicity or race are you?" No two things evoke the mind to wonder such a question than skin color and HAIR. For the record the difference between the ethnicity and race is; ethnicity is about tradition, learned behaviors and customs.  It is about learning where you come from and celebrating the traditions and ideas that are part of that region. While race is defined as as your biologically engineered features. Race is also an indication of the heritage with which you were born, regardless of location or learned behavior. At least that is what two people's version of the definition is today.

The world does not look like this.

As a licensed cosmetologist, I have to admit, nothing curdles my blood than segregation in hair care. I can not find the words to type about the hair atrocities I see in hair like I see standing behind the chair every day for 16 hours. I mean, the affects are way beyond financial, physical, emotional. The hair atrocities eat at the core of a person's existence. Yes, it is that deep. So these are the people I've dedicated my life to serving. I was so unnerved by this, I decided to get to the bottom of this. I came up with my version of a solution to end this madness of fighting with texture regardless of your race, ethnicity and socioeconomic background. I was quick to conclude that dirty hair, the wrong comb, not combing hair enough or at all and using the wrong; yet inferior hair care products were the culprits. 

Mr. Philip Pelusi, teaches and promotes, results
beyond the salon!

I figured I could easily do something about the dirty hair part, so I solicited the help of the great hair care extraordinaire, Philip Pelusi out of Pittsburgh, PA to help me. Beyond help is what he did. As I result, I tell every hair stylist I meet and every customer I service, "If you do not have use anything on your hair at least get one product by him to incorporate into your hair care." Yes, he is that much of the truth. He has the education, history, knowledge of application, hair salons and products to prove it. As for the combs, I've dedicated a portion of my own income to give them away for FREE to every person who enters the salon where I work at, The Reverence Design Team, and teach them how to use them via a free scalp and hair consultation. 

As for the inferior hair care products, well that blew my mind. To make a long blog short, what I did was sign up for a virtual conference on hair care ingredients put on by my homies over at the cosmeticsdesigns.com (a.k.a The Pink Papers). This virtual conference was virtually attended and represented by the chemists who actually makes the ingredients to sale to the hair care companies to manufacture for us to use on our hair at home or in the salon. Most impressive beyond words, I must say. So there I sit with my mouse and webcam going from workshop to workshop learning about how all this hair science comes to fruition in my hands and onto my customers hair. The question I am seeking to ask is, "Why the term ethnic hair?" and "Why is it made with such crappy ingredients?" Finally, I virtually enter a workshop on marketing and ask my question. The response crushed me. From my webcam, I could hear the distinguished Nobel Prize nominee, "Vell Ms. Wright, the simple fact that you are the only person from your entire industry, race and sex who is attending this virtual conference further validates our research.I must admit, I am impressed by your tenacity to further educate yourself to help your customers more." So, I click onto my camera and ask as proper as I could with anticipation, "What does your research reveal?" She responds in her thick accent, "Our research reveals, that the consumer has removed licensed beauty professionals from the equation of hair care..." I was crushed. I do not know what she said after that to answer my two questions. It was as if her voice faded off into the abyss of deafness. I heard nothing. The sound was mute and the computer monitor went black.I was devastated. I was embarrassed. I was lost. As loquacious as I am; for the 999th time, I again found myself lost for words. 

Accepting no offers in advertisement, these people
deliver!

Meanwhile, back at the salon behind the chair, I had to give in to the reality that her statement was so surreal; yet it was real. Segregation in hair care is real. There, I typed it. Just as much as the color of one's skin and hair texture often leads people of color to being treated differently at the polls, within the justice system, their places of employment or treated differently at school; unfortunately the hair salon is not exempt from on of those places. Just as Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. said in his speech, "I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the color of their skin, but by the content of their character." The same excerpt from his famous impacting speech can be applied to, of all places, the beauty salon. I too have a dream that my four little customers will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the texture of their hair, but by the content of the licensed professionals education and character to service them regardless of their hair texture and race. Because the educator from the virtual conference pointed out how licensed hair stylists are removed from the equation of hair care, one can see how "white girl hair" remains a overt and covert thought processes for many who do hair. One can see how people who host "meet ups" about hair care with and without licensed professionals. One can see how the masses are turning to YOUTUBE. One can see how hair care companies are clicking to YOUTUBE looking for their next spokesperson.One can see why people continue to do hair at home and promote it on Instagram. One can see that perhaps her statement has merit.

Yep, beauty certain hair salons across the nation can go for a crash course of eliminating race and ethnicity and incorporating caring for textured hair as effectively as "white girl hair" when it comes to providing hair care service to the public. Just as the medical field has no race requirement to utilize the tools, implements and equipment to service the patients; neither should a hair salon. Just as a chef has no race requirement to utilize their education in culinary to prepare, cook and serve food; neither should a licensed beauty profession. 

The problem with a large portion of hair salons in America is that many licensed professionals see textured hair and run to the calculator or to the boarder. In America, how many licensed Caucasian hair stylists do we know can cornrow hair or press hair using a straightening comb? How many licensed Negro hair stylists do we know can cut an Afro or press hair using a straightening comb? How many licensed Mongoloid hair stylists do we know can loc hair or use press hair using a straightening comb?  You see, across the nation, most Americans at large truly believe that when one goes to cosmetology school; passes and when one goes to state board and passes that to some level they are proficient to some degree at caring for and styling all hair types. Wrong. That my fellow Americans, you are so very wrong. Many Americans think that licensed professionals are taught or at least introduced to the concept of many hair styling practices for all textured hair but choose to their own are of specialty after becoming licensed. Wrong again. 

Things that make you go, hmm.

For the record, across the United States the ability to do hair, skin and nails is not a requirement to become and obtain a licensed beauty professional. Sad, but true. Here in the United States, becoming a licensed beauty professional is about following the laws each state has designated to open and conduct business with one's cosmetology license. In addition, the practice of public safety and sanitation are also requirements. But do you have to actually know how to cut hair, roll hair, comb hair, press, cornrow, loc hair, demonstrate that you know how to discern when and not when to relax hair and formulate hair color? No. We are introduced, taught and tested at school by what is in our cosmetology book; but we do not have to prove that we know how to do any of it. When we go to the state board (and yes there is such a physical location) to take the test, we are tested via questions on the content of the one book, Milady's Standards in Cosmetology. Strange as it may seem. Believe it or not, every cosmetology school across the nation uses the same book. Also, we are then tested on our ability to follow a series of generic instructions that most companies in the areas of chemical services for hair, skin and nails have outlined for us to follow behind the chair in the salon. The proctor at the testing site actually stands next to us to see if we know how to apply it via a demonstration. Not with the actual chemical, but a conditioner...smh. We do not even have to bring in a real human to cut hair. No, we can use a mannequin. They do not even entertain to include if a person is deaf, with disability or anything. As if a person in a wheelchair does not want their hair styled. But the laws of every state says we do have to accommodate them. Though they do not teach us anything about how a wheelchair functions or the etiquette of servicing a blind or deaf person. Any extra education and training a licensed beauty professional has outside of what the state has tested us on, is on the individual licensee and salon owner. And of course the salon owner, need not have any knowledge or a license in cosmetology. 

The varying state boards across the nations has no legal authority to oversee if what the person is doing behind the chair is appropriate when they come to the salon to inspect us. There is no such board to report a bad hair, skin and nail service to; unlike the medical, mental health and culinary fields. When the state board inspector comes to inspect a salon they are only looking for three things. The first is to make sure our license to do hair is active. The second is to make sure we are practicing public safety and sanitation by making sure the salon, our drawers and implements our clean. The third is to make sure we are following the laws outlined by the state to be in business. As simple as those three key inspection points are, that is not to say that there are no qualified beauty professionals and salons who can effectively, with care, can provide hair, skin and nail service to someone regardless of the color of their skin and hair texture. Unfortunately it is the case for the majority and is of concern to the public at large. I also know that just because someone is a licensed doctor that makes them exempt from not being able to provide medical services to a patient based on their skin color; because we have know that it happens in there too. 

One book for an entire nation?

The beauty industry is terribly segregated. No one wants to blog about it. No one wants to report about it. No one wants address it. But, I am. The beauty industry pretends that it is not segregated. It simply promotes images of the so called "talented tenths" who can do "all" types of hair texture. Yes in the beauty industry, if some one can do straight, wavy, curly, kinky and the esteemed Afro hair; they are the shit. I mean, the simple fact that we have displays of overt racism with varying designated "ethnic" aisles speaks, in volumes. When a beauty professional has to quantify how she/he can do "both" or "all" races, speaks in volumes. When the media (print and TV) glorifies the Black beauty professional for doing the hair of White celebrities and vice versa, that too speaks in volumes. 

Listen up America, something is terribly wrong when with the education of cosmetology when again, every school of cosmetology teaches from the same book, written by the same curriculum writers. No where in the education of American in any education or vocation are all students across the nation are taught from the same book by the same author. There is something terribly wrong when we live in a country that is touted as the "melting pot" that the mannequins we practice on ALL  have straight "white girl hair." As if the other textures do not want to be reversed, cut and altered of some sorts. Something is terribly wrong, when we are taught to blow dry, perm, relax and color; but we are not taught to cornrow, twist and loc hair. Something is terribly wrong when we go to the state to petition for a law that requires all who practice any form of beauty service be licensed too. After all, it is a requirement of the state, right?  But then, those places are allowed to remain unlicensed in business because the schools never taught cornrow, twisting, locking, threading, sugaring and the likes in the first place. Yep, that's another thing. The state only becomes interested in the varying ethnic beauty practices that are introduced to the world from the varying ethnic people when they come to this country and share them with the masses. Then the powers that be wants to get in on some of the action. Unfortunately, they are a tad bit too late. They are too late because they have no research, no history and absolutely no understanding of the practices of beauty world wide that can be applied and monitored by any governing body here in the good old U.S of A. 

Okay now.

So what do I have to say about all this "white girl hair" stuff? My resolve to this. Buyer beware. Beware of licensed beauty professionals who are just that; licensed. Buyer beware of self taught beauty professionals who operate primarily from self taught education. Buyer beware of angry and fed up self taught people who do it out of their home. Buyer beware of social network professionals who are great at collaborating with photographers, web designers, graphic designers, clothing designers and everyone in between who look very "like" in your phone to gain popularity and notoriety versus credibility. I say buyer beware of all those beauty professional who all of a sudden are into "natural hair care" and sustainability when they had the option to do so way before you got fed up with what you knew they were never doing behind the chair in first place. You know as if organic and natural is new. Buyer be aware that you have the power.

Inasmuch as natural hair care is booming, chemical services are down, sustainability/eco- friendly is of great concern and the public is demanding more from licensed professionals; folk still do not know what they are doing when it comes to textured hair. Rather they are licensed or not. Black, white, green, purple; curly, kinky wavy or straight; many people simply have no clue of what they are doing let alone seeing. And just as you would have guessed, some states have decided to do away with cosmetology licensing all together. I am sure that other states will follow in the not so near future; but it will happen. 

Standard Beauty School Kit...smh

There still remains places in rural America and urban metropolis' with their re-gentrification processes and diverse populations of gays, Blacks, Whites, Latinos, adoptions, persons with disabilities, employed and unemployed have salons who can not and do not know how to care for and style textured hair but they do know "white girl hair."

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