What Lies Beneath

Healthy hair is on the minds of millions. Billions of dollars are being spent on just about every continent all in the name of hair care products. In Africa sales are up, in Europe sales continue to soar and in Asia sales soar as companies pair with scientist using the latest in stem cell, plant and flower technology to meet the ever growing needs of the consumers who are in hot pursuit of beautiful healthy hair. There are those who want it stronger. Some want it longer. While other want is shorter. Some like it full and thick. While others prefer bald and no maintenance. Whatever it is and however it is styled, healthy hair and healthy scalp are what most are after. 

When the goal to have healthy hair falls short for any reason; there are those who turn to hair weaves, hair replacement, scalp grafting, hair extensions and custom wigs as an alternative. But for those who want resolve for such issues as thinning, balding, scaly scalps, itchy scalps, sensitive scalps, damaged hair and more; hair care products and salon are the go to source for the masses. While dermatologists and trichologist would seem the obvious choice for those with scalp and hair concerns should turn to. They do not.

In reality, hair care products and salon visits can be of assistance when you need a resolve or do not now what you are doing. The challenge is to find qualified sales reps at stores and skilled hair stylists at hair salons. Hair care companies, hair care stores and unskilled hair stylists have a tendency to create too much hype around hair care by keeping consumers shrouded in mystery as they hold the key to the answers and solutions.

So, what's all the hype about? How are they creating this hype? The hype is created in denying consumers the knowledge. It is the, "not" understanding of what is exactly growing from the scalp. When a person has no clue of what is growing from their head, all sorts of fear and wrong doings will take place. The fear, wrong products and wrong styling tools will create all sorts of scalp and hair problems. Thus being the reason most people do not have healthy hair.  They are experiencing excessive hair shedding, coated hair that won't come clean, dull hair that will not shine, split ends that continue to tear, lose length and for some; total hair loss. All of this because they simply do not know the very important role the scalp plays in having healthy hair. After all, the hair is what is growing from their scalp. 

Yes, people get the just that hairs are microfibers that can be manipulated via heat, chemicals, hair care products, and water.  They also get the just that it can be combed, smoothed, curled, braided or brushed. But the hype of the mystery of hair is what has most in a pickle about their hair as it relates to how to get it healthy. They are asking questions like; what is it, why is it, how is it, when is it gonna grow, where is it and so on. 

Hair care companies and their fancy marketing are doing a good job at keeping you away from your hair. They want you to care for and style it the way they see fit. In addition, some of the hair care practices that are being passed down to us from family members are not on the up and up or for the best interest of our scalp and hair as well. So, therein lies two problems. It is imperative that scalp and hair care remain in the hands of the person on which it lies. Why?

Because the scalp is a microbial habitat. A what? A microbial habitat. What do I mean by microbial? Microbes. Yep, the same microbes you are thinking about. Those tiny critters that live outside our bodies, on our skin's surface and can not be seen with the naked eye. Those microbes. Those tiny critters that can wreak all sorts of havoc on our scalp and hair that leads to unwanted scalp problems, hair problems, hair loss and for some outright death. Therefore, washing your own hair is as imperative as washing your own vagina. Nobody can clean it consistently and thoroughly, like you!

Microbial scalp critter.

Yes, that was a far stretch to use as a correlation. But, I have to got to get people to understand that clean scalp and hair is a personal hygiene matter. Scalp and hair care is no more the responsibility of a hairstylist than a dentist is to your oral care. Teeth are best cared by individuals who have teeth in their mouth versus the dentist. I mean no one goes to the dentist every two weeks to have their gums cleaned and teeth scrubbed. In addition, clean hair and clean scalp are vital to the health of the hair and performance of all hair styles. While shampooing and styling daily may be a bit much for most, that is an option as well. However waiting past those 7 days is unacceptable, when healthy hair is the goal. Why?  Because microbes are real and they love dirty scalp and hair. Microbes can be good and microbes can be bad. What makes them bad? Dark moist places. The same thing we've been told the moment our parents started teaching us how to clean our bodies and teeth. Bacteria loves dark moist places. That is why our parents were staunch ear checkers, mouth pokers, belly button pickers, hand smacking from our butt scratching and "get back in that tub" yellers! Our parents knew our dark and moist places were still damp and half cleaned. While those types of microbes seem pretty much par for the course for our bodies, mouths, buttocks, armpits, ears, and vaginas; the same microbes can get jiggy on our scalps and compromise our hair as well. 

Because scalp and hair care are mostly cultural; many people take care of their scalp, hair and style their hair according to what has been passed down to them from one family member and so on. For some African Americans, this seems to be the culprit to why what lies beneath. What lies beneath stays there and eats our hair away from our scalp and irritates our scalps to the point where we want no parts of hair care. 

Many African Americans with textured hair, especially Afro-textured hair are under the notion that they can not care for their scalp and hair the way people (mainly Whites) without texture do. The belief is only around the hair texture, nothing else. I've been researching this phenomena for over 18 years. My research continually leads me back to slavery. Slavery is the culprit to the belief that Africans with textured hair can not clean their hair like Whites. Slavery is the culprit to the practice of African Americans not caring for their scalp, improperly caring for their hair and developing hair styling practices that often compromised the scalp and hair to the point where hair loss was the inevitable. 

The infamous, 'pat yo weave."

Slave owners did not allow slaves to care for their scalp and hair; let alone style or groom it. Slave owners did not supply Africans with hair care products and styling tools from their native homeland to ensure that the health of their scalp and hair. And slave owners most certainly did not allow them to get back on the boat to return home to get what they needed to care for their scalp and hair.  

So, the Africans had to improvise. They had to make do with the resources and time the slave owner allotted or not allotted them to care for and style their hair. Because slaves were responsible for 95% of the labor force in America, slave owners made no adjustments in the lifestyle of African slaves to prepare for the day. As a result scalp and hair care took a back seat. Simply having a clean body and mouth sufficed to make it in America upon being freed. The practice of not being allotted time for scalp care,  hair care, and hair styling became a way of hair care that exists today. 

Many books, teachings, lessons, lectures and talks primarily promote African Americans or those with textured hair like Africans to not clean their scalp and hair frequently like Whites or those with less or no texture. While that may seem like the logical solution considering textured hair is different from hair with no texture. Texture hair also takes longer to cleanse and style than hair with no texture. However, microbes do not care about textures, sex (male or female), race, rather you are of a pure race, slaves, slave owners, what continent you come from and so on. Microbes mean business. Microbes mean extra business in dark moist places. 

Excessive itching has many culprits.

What lies beneath are two assumptions. The first is, those with less texture can clean their hair more frequently than those with texture. Therefore, they have the healthier, longer, stronger hair. The second is those with textured hair. They are taught to not shampoo and care for their hair because of the texture. This school of thought stems directly from the abuse and neglect in hygiene practices for Africans as a result of slavery is a specific group of people from the same racial-ethnic makeup?  No access to what was best for their scalp and hair and the time to do it. What lies out in the open is we still see the same abuse and neglect from the 1400's being practiced in 2016. The difference is, there is no slave owner preventing scalp and hair care from taking place. However, America still has not made adjustments to lifestyles for African Americans with textured hair and those with textured hair closest to Afro hair. African Americans or people with textured hair closest to Afro hair are not allowed more time to care for their hair after activities such as swimming, gym time, working, caring for the kids, or any other activity that causes Afro hair and textured hair to revert. As a licensed cosmetologist, I can not tell you how much hair damage and hair loss I see in small children and adults who can not dry their hair after swimming, gym or some physical exertion school or work activity. The powers that be simply have not incorporated the infrastructure of more time in between time for those with textured hair to prepare for their next stop of the day. So the saga of those with less texture will have healthier hair hair and those with textured hair closest to Afro textured hair continue to struggle with obtaining healthy hair.

So, on the one hand; slavery and societal norms are the culprits to denying those with textured hair more time to care for it. On the other hand; improper family practices of caring for and styling hair are the culprits as well to increased microbial activity on the scalp and hair. 

Scalp is scalp and hair is hair on all humans. Microbes will multiply. Scalps will ferociously itch. Sores will continue to damage follicles. Scalp and hair that is not cleaned within 7 days will continue to soften and the hair texture will become compromised. Bacteria will continue to produce odors that are offensively coming from the scalp. Weaves that are left in beyond those seven days without cleansing the yeast from the scalp and hair will continue to contribute to damaged hair and hair loss. Dirty scalp and hair does not promote healthy hair. It damages and compromises the scalp and hair on all textures of hair. 

Tell yourself something good!

Microbes are what lies beneath. The myths that promote those with textured hair to not shampoo their hair as much as those with less texture are designed to promote what lies beneath. Wealth. The myths are where wealth in the lies. Those with textured hair spend 10 times more money on scalp an hair care compared to those with less or no texture. When the scalp becomes compromised the hair becomes compromised. During that process the hair is deteriorating. People will spend lots of money to stop the deterioration. They will spend even more to cover it up. Microbes do not care about your money or what ever it is you want to hide. Microbes will live anywhere and on anything that is dark and moist. 

Instead of masking the itch by not cleaning you scalp and hair for fear that it will fall out; it won't. Instead of wearing a weave because you just don't have the time in between workouts, a career and family; care for your scalp and hair. Please make the time.  

What lies beneath are not only the microbes that are compromising your scalp and hair; what lies beneath on your mind is sometimes what takes up space in between your ears.

Free your mind from the notion that if you have textured hair that you can not shampoo as often as those with little or no texture. 

White Girl Hair

Erase racism. 

Can you believe during this day and time racial turmoil continues to be one of the greatest social ills world wide? You can not help but to wonder, why is the complexion and color of someone's skin really getting certain folk all in a tizzy? After all, at the end of the day we are all humans of some sorts. 

When one thinks of racism, the stereotypical images that comes to mind are those black and white images from the 50's and 60's where there were signs everywhere that read, "No Coloreds Allowed," "For Whites Only," or water hose and dogs attacking protesters and the likes. Some other stereotypical images are those of Black men being beaten and choked by White police officers, or Black people beating up on white people, or when certain people look at people with slanted eyes and dark hair and call them all Chinese. As if only three color hues exists. If one was to turn on the tv, pick up a magazine or newspaper, unfortunately it would b easy to conclude that racism is here to stay; at least for a while. But, we can change that. 

In the beauty industry, the theories of genotypes of race are constantly being challenged. If by nothing but the varying textures we see on people's hair from varying ethnicities and races world wide. Yet, the number one question that comes to most people's mind when they see someone whose image does not fit their opinion of how that person should look is.."What ethnicity or race are you?" No two things evoke the mind to wonder such a question than skin color and HAIR. For the record the difference between the ethnicity and race is; ethnicity is about tradition, learned behaviors and customs.  It is about learning where you come from and celebrating the traditions and ideas that are part of that region. While race is defined as as your biologically engineered features. Race is also an indication of the heritage with which you were born, regardless of location or learned behavior. At least that is what two people's version of the definition is today.

The world does not look like this.

As a licensed cosmetologist, I have to admit, nothing curdles my blood than segregation in hair care. I can not find the words to type about the hair atrocities I see in hair like I see standing behind the chair every day for 16 hours. I mean, the affects are way beyond financial, physical, emotional. The hair atrocities eat at the core of a person's existence. Yes, it is that deep. So these are the people I've dedicated my life to serving. I was so unnerved by this, I decided to get to the bottom of this. I came up with my version of a solution to end this madness of fighting with texture regardless of your race, ethnicity and socioeconomic background. I was quick to conclude that dirty hair, the wrong comb, not combing hair enough or at all and using the wrong; yet inferior hair care products were the culprits. 

Mr. Philip Pelusi, teaches and promotes, results
beyond the salon!

I figured I could easily do something about the dirty hair part, so I solicited the help of the great hair care extraordinaire, Philip Pelusi out of Pittsburgh, PA to help me. Beyond help is what he did. As I result, I tell every hair stylist I meet and every customer I service, "If you do not have use anything on your hair at least get one product by him to incorporate into your hair care." Yes, he is that much of the truth. He has the education, history, knowledge of application, hair salons and products to prove it. As for the combs, I've dedicated a portion of my own income to give them away for FREE to every person who enters the salon where I work at, The Reverence Design Team, and teach them how to use them via a free scalp and hair consultation. 

As for the inferior hair care products, well that blew my mind. To make a long blog short, what I did was sign up for a virtual conference on hair care ingredients put on by my homies over at the cosmeticsdesigns.com (a.k.a The Pink Papers). This virtual conference was virtually attended and represented by the chemists who actually makes the ingredients to sale to the hair care companies to manufacture for us to use on our hair at home or in the salon. Most impressive beyond words, I must say. So there I sit with my mouse and webcam going from workshop to workshop learning about how all this hair science comes to fruition in my hands and onto my customers hair. The question I am seeking to ask is, "Why the term ethnic hair?" and "Why is it made with such crappy ingredients?" Finally, I virtually enter a workshop on marketing and ask my question. The response crushed me. From my webcam, I could hear the distinguished Nobel Prize nominee, "Vell Ms. Wright, the simple fact that you are the only person from your entire industry, race and sex who is attending this virtual conference further validates our research.I must admit, I am impressed by your tenacity to further educate yourself to help your customers more." So, I click onto my camera and ask as proper as I could with anticipation, "What does your research reveal?" She responds in her thick accent, "Our research reveals, that the consumer has removed licensed beauty professionals from the equation of hair care..." I was crushed. I do not know what she said after that to answer my two questions. It was as if her voice faded off into the abyss of deafness. I heard nothing. The sound was mute and the computer monitor went black.I was devastated. I was embarrassed. I was lost. As loquacious as I am; for the 999th time, I again found myself lost for words. 

Accepting no offers in advertisement, these people
deliver!

Meanwhile, back at the salon behind the chair, I had to give in to the reality that her statement was so surreal; yet it was real. Segregation in hair care is real. There, I typed it. Just as much as the color of one's skin and hair texture often leads people of color to being treated differently at the polls, within the justice system, their places of employment or treated differently at school; unfortunately the hair salon is not exempt from on of those places. Just as Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. said in his speech, "I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the color of their skin, but by the content of their character." The same excerpt from his famous impacting speech can be applied to, of all places, the beauty salon. I too have a dream that my four little customers will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the texture of their hair, but by the content of the licensed professionals education and character to service them regardless of their hair texture and race. Because the educator from the virtual conference pointed out how licensed hair stylists are removed from the equation of hair care, one can see how "white girl hair" remains a overt and covert thought processes for many who do hair. One can see how people who host "meet ups" about hair care with and without licensed professionals. One can see how the masses are turning to YOUTUBE. One can see how hair care companies are clicking to YOUTUBE looking for their next spokesperson.One can see why people continue to do hair at home and promote it on Instagram. One can see that perhaps her statement has merit.

Yep, beauty certain hair salons across the nation can go for a crash course of eliminating race and ethnicity and incorporating caring for textured hair as effectively as "white girl hair" when it comes to providing hair care service to the public. Just as the medical field has no race requirement to utilize the tools, implements and equipment to service the patients; neither should a hair salon. Just as a chef has no race requirement to utilize their education in culinary to prepare, cook and serve food; neither should a licensed beauty profession. 

The problem with a large portion of hair salons in America is that many licensed professionals see textured hair and run to the calculator or to the boarder. In America, how many licensed Caucasian hair stylists do we know can cornrow hair or press hair using a straightening comb? How many licensed Negro hair stylists do we know can cut an Afro or press hair using a straightening comb? How many licensed Mongoloid hair stylists do we know can loc hair or use press hair using a straightening comb?  You see, across the nation, most Americans at large truly believe that when one goes to cosmetology school; passes and when one goes to state board and passes that to some level they are proficient to some degree at caring for and styling all hair types. Wrong. That my fellow Americans, you are so very wrong. Many Americans think that licensed professionals are taught or at least introduced to the concept of many hair styling practices for all textured hair but choose to their own are of specialty after becoming licensed. Wrong again. 

Things that make you go, hmm.

For the record, across the United States the ability to do hair, skin and nails is not a requirement to become and obtain a licensed beauty professional. Sad, but true. Here in the United States, becoming a licensed beauty professional is about following the laws each state has designated to open and conduct business with one's cosmetology license. In addition, the practice of public safety and sanitation are also requirements. But do you have to actually know how to cut hair, roll hair, comb hair, press, cornrow, loc hair, demonstrate that you know how to discern when and not when to relax hair and formulate hair color? No. We are introduced, taught and tested at school by what is in our cosmetology book; but we do not have to prove that we know how to do any of it. When we go to the state board (and yes there is such a physical location) to take the test, we are tested via questions on the content of the one book, Milady's Standards in Cosmetology. Strange as it may seem. Believe it or not, every cosmetology school across the nation uses the same book. Also, we are then tested on our ability to follow a series of generic instructions that most companies in the areas of chemical services for hair, skin and nails have outlined for us to follow behind the chair in the salon. The proctor at the testing site actually stands next to us to see if we know how to apply it via a demonstration. Not with the actual chemical, but a conditioner...smh. We do not even have to bring in a real human to cut hair. No, we can use a mannequin. They do not even entertain to include if a person is deaf, with disability or anything. As if a person in a wheelchair does not want their hair styled. But the laws of every state says we do have to accommodate them. Though they do not teach us anything about how a wheelchair functions or the etiquette of servicing a blind or deaf person. Any extra education and training a licensed beauty professional has outside of what the state has tested us on, is on the individual licensee and salon owner. And of course the salon owner, need not have any knowledge or a license in cosmetology. 

The varying state boards across the nations has no legal authority to oversee if what the person is doing behind the chair is appropriate when they come to the salon to inspect us. There is no such board to report a bad hair, skin and nail service to; unlike the medical, mental health and culinary fields. When the state board inspector comes to inspect a salon they are only looking for three things. The first is to make sure our license to do hair is active. The second is to make sure we are practicing public safety and sanitation by making sure the salon, our drawers and implements our clean. The third is to make sure we are following the laws outlined by the state to be in business. As simple as those three key inspection points are, that is not to say that there are no qualified beauty professionals and salons who can effectively, with care, can provide hair, skin and nail service to someone regardless of the color of their skin and hair texture. Unfortunately it is the case for the majority and is of concern to the public at large. I also know that just because someone is a licensed doctor that makes them exempt from not being able to provide medical services to a patient based on their skin color; because we have know that it happens in there too. 

One book for an entire nation?

The beauty industry is terribly segregated. No one wants to blog about it. No one wants to report about it. No one wants address it. But, I am. The beauty industry pretends that it is not segregated. It simply promotes images of the so called "talented tenths" who can do "all" types of hair texture. Yes in the beauty industry, if some one can do straight, wavy, curly, kinky and the esteemed Afro hair; they are the shit. I mean, the simple fact that we have displays of overt racism with varying designated "ethnic" aisles speaks, in volumes. When a beauty professional has to quantify how she/he can do "both" or "all" races, speaks in volumes. When the media (print and TV) glorifies the Black beauty professional for doing the hair of White celebrities and vice versa, that too speaks in volumes. 

Listen up America, something is terribly wrong when with the education of cosmetology when again, every school of cosmetology teaches from the same book, written by the same curriculum writers. No where in the education of American in any education or vocation are all students across the nation are taught from the same book by the same author. There is something terribly wrong when we live in a country that is touted as the "melting pot" that the mannequins we practice on ALL  have straight "white girl hair." As if the other textures do not want to be reversed, cut and altered of some sorts. Something is terribly wrong, when we are taught to blow dry, perm, relax and color; but we are not taught to cornrow, twist and loc hair. Something is terribly wrong when we go to the state to petition for a law that requires all who practice any form of beauty service be licensed too. After all, it is a requirement of the state, right?  But then, those places are allowed to remain unlicensed in business because the schools never taught cornrow, twisting, locking, threading, sugaring and the likes in the first place. Yep, that's another thing. The state only becomes interested in the varying ethnic beauty practices that are introduced to the world from the varying ethnic people when they come to this country and share them with the masses. Then the powers that be wants to get in on some of the action. Unfortunately, they are a tad bit too late. They are too late because they have no research, no history and absolutely no understanding of the practices of beauty world wide that can be applied and monitored by any governing body here in the good old U.S of A. 

Okay now.

So what do I have to say about all this "white girl hair" stuff? My resolve to this. Buyer beware. Beware of licensed beauty professionals who are just that; licensed. Buyer beware of self taught beauty professionals who operate primarily from self taught education. Buyer beware of angry and fed up self taught people who do it out of their home. Buyer beware of social network professionals who are great at collaborating with photographers, web designers, graphic designers, clothing designers and everyone in between who look very "like" in your phone to gain popularity and notoriety versus credibility. I say buyer beware of all those beauty professional who all of a sudden are into "natural hair care" and sustainability when they had the option to do so way before you got fed up with what you knew they were never doing behind the chair in first place. You know as if organic and natural is new. Buyer be aware that you have the power.

Inasmuch as natural hair care is booming, chemical services are down, sustainability/eco- friendly is of great concern and the public is demanding more from licensed professionals; folk still do not know what they are doing when it comes to textured hair. Rather they are licensed or not. Black, white, green, purple; curly, kinky wavy or straight; many people simply have no clue of what they are doing let alone seeing. And just as you would have guessed, some states have decided to do away with cosmetology licensing all together. I am sure that other states will follow in the not so near future; but it will happen. 

Standard Beauty School Kit...smh

There still remains places in rural America and urban metropolis' with their re-gentrification processes and diverse populations of gays, Blacks, Whites, Latinos, adoptions, persons with disabilities, employed and unemployed have salons who can not and do not know how to care for and style textured hair but they do know "white girl hair."

. 

Not Hot Enough

Nothing came between Brooke and Calvin!

Remember when Levi's, Wranglers and Lee jeans were like khakis and corduroys? Boring. When designer jeans arrived on the fashion scene it was over. I even remember when the R&B funk group Cameo had a song, "Shake Your Pants." They had a verse dedicated to designer jeans letting you know that when you wore a pair, you were "dressed to kill." Jordache jeans were the "ish!" Then came Sassoon, then Gloria Vanderbilt and "Uh oh, Sergio's." But who can forget when Brooke Shields confessed to the world that nothing came between she and her Calvin Klein's? Along with looking nice in those designer jeans came the challenge of how to keep them looking like you just got them fresh off the rack. So the big question was, "to wash or not to wash?" Who can remember not wanting to ever wash your designer jeans because you did not want that rich indigo blue to fade on those stark white stitches" Sorry New Religion, but Calvin Klein ruled the scene way before you were a jean god. 

Whatchu know about dat...lol

In addition to questioning rather to wash them; you also questioned what kind of heat to use on them. You pondered, rather to put them in the washer or send them to cleaners? Hang dry or dryer? Steam or no steam? Starch or no starch? Niagara, Fautless or Stay Flo? For most, Niagara was always best. And if you were pressed for starch, your mom would teach you how to make some by using a lil flour and water...lol Now that's old school for you! The one thing you learned about designer jeans was that you had to have the right amount of heat to keep them soft, smooth and straight to preserve the fabric. And in determining that; it was unanimous that not enough heat, rather from the dryer or the iron proved disastrous!

Believe it or not, how to care for your denim (designer or not) is identical to the concept of hair care. Unlike blue jeans that all are cut from the same fabric, the same cannot be said for hair. Yet, you can apply the concept of fabric care to hair care. Provided you know what the fabric is FIRST and you follow the manufacturers instructions on the label; you can make it happen. Honestly, I see a lot of people putting cheap clothes and expensive garments in the cleaners that can easily be cared for AT HOME; like your hair. 

The trick to caring for your hair/fabric at home is to ask, "What is the most important part of caring for the fabric?" Is it the soap powder, the fabric softener, the bleach, the heat or the starch? Most come to the conclusion, if the fabric is not cleaned properly then there is no use in using any fabric softer, bleach, starch or heat. Again, the same can be asked of hair care and the response will pretty much be the same. If the hair is dirty; what's the point?

Hair like fabric, will not fit right or flow when it becomes soiled. Once the hair is clean and conditioned it will conduct heat safely. When straight and smooth is the goal, heat is the way to achieve it. Heat is responsible for how hair feels, looks and flows on your head just like heat affects how fabrics feel, look and flow on your body. Nothing, compromises the feel, look and flow of hair and fabric like not using enough heat. Both hair and fabrics will become damaged. If a cheap iron that leaks rust and sloughs off soot of some as it comes into contact with the hair or fabric. it too will compromise the health of the hair or fabric.

For mature audiences only.

Every time I hear someone say, "Heat is bad for hair." I immediately look at their clothes and go, "Oh. I see." Understand that if you have never had to do any laundry then understanding how hair is cleaned and cared for will be Greek to you. I am not only referring to the washing machine. I am making reference to having to wash your clothes by hand or on a scrub board or with rocks using the vary forms of soap. If you have never had to use any heat on clothes, then knowing and understanding how heat affects hair will be like Swahili to you. I am not referring to a Black and Decker iron heat . I am referring to the kinds of heat that can be used from irons you had to put on the gas stove, or a steamer, or hanging them in the sun to dry or even having to put your pants under the mattress (whatchu know about that)! Fabric care and the use of heat can be done using many forms. One thing's for certain and two things for sure; heat in some form is a absolute must when smooth and straight fabric is wanted. 

The thicker, the stronger, the more wrinkled the fabric; like hair the more heat is needed. In actuality, the less heat you use on hair that is textured or hair that is strong and thick; the more damage you will cause to your hair. Yep, I wrote it. Less heat is more damaging than too much heat. Again, most hair has 3 layers. The cuticle, cortex and medulla. Each strand of hair is mostly comprised cuticle scaly layers that look like shingles on a roof. The less heat you use to lay those shingles down; the more they will raise. The more they raise, the more the hair will not feel nice, look nice and flow nice. Instead, the hair will: frizz easily, feel gritty, revert quickly, appear dull, dusty, snap and rub out. Also it will not smooth and straighten evenly. 

Open cuticle-how ya hair looks when not enough heat is used.

Heat is your straight hair style's best friend . Like starch, there are a myriad of thermal and heat protectors to buff the cuticle layers from the heat, thus making it safe. There are also a myriad of thermal and heat protectors as well as heated styling tools (flat irons, curling irons, straightening combs, blow dryers, brushes) that makes hair conduct the heat more evenly and safe. Not using any form of heat protector is like not using starch or a fabric protector on those expensive blue jeans. The results are faded, dull jeans that tear very easily. 

Do you spend more money on fabrics
that are not on your head than the hair
fabric that grows from your scalp?

For life of me why people spend more money on fabrics of all kinds designed by the many talented clothing, shoe, wallet and purse designers than the hair that grows from their scalp; behooves me.  After all, clothes, shoes, wallets and purses are made of fabric too. People spend a lot of money to keep those designer/expensive clothes, shoe, wallets and purses looking new.  Your hair is attached to YOUR body. Those fabrics in their varying forms are not. Yet, many of people will go to that ECO friendly cleaners and buy that organic detergent. Yes, make no mistake they, too will put that bebe and Guess shirt in the cleaners, they will buy that UGG cleaner, that Coach bag cleaner and wipe that fabric down whenever salt or goo gets on them. Some will even make a special place in their closet and car for them. They will be sure to use heat or no heat at all if that is what the fabric calls for. Whatever the fabric requires; no amount of money is too much. After all, "You're worth it?" 

But when it comes to hair. I dunno? I see women spending any where from $50.00 to $400.00 on hair weave and then spend $4.99 on oil sheen to make it shine. "Houston, we have a problem." That makes no since. With the exception of those who can not grow hair or those who are pre-genetically determined to lose their hair, everyone has the ability to grow hair for FREE. I'm talking the kind of free hair that grows every single second of the day. And in that hair which is growing for free all day every day, there is some form of texture. There are many people with textured hair who actually like the option of being able to smooth and straighten it. Yet, there are these interesting "self taught, heat free movement people who do not know much about heat; let alone how to use it on hair" people who tell people that heat is bad for hair. Heat is not bad for hair. As a result of their messages about heat, many doubt the safety and purpose of heat on hair as it relates to a straightened hair style. 

Propaganda; A hustle?

Don't listen to those people. Do not make the mistake of trying to smooth out your textured hair, in any form, without enough heat. Damaged hair will be the result. Heat has been so safely used on hair, they even started schooling and businesses for it. It is called, Cosmetology. One, I am proud to represent professionally. I can tell you from personal and professional experience, hair remains on the heads of the many people world wide with all kinds of texture who use heat. Hair that is straightened converts back to its natural state of curly, wavy, kinky or Afro on the many many people who straighten it out. If they purposely or accidentally over process it while using heat; quality protein will revert damaged tresses in due time. All that talk about burning your hair, well;  If you accidentally scorch and burn a piece of hair here and there; don't fret. It will grow back. It's not that serious. 

This movement around: protective hair styles, heat free styles, natural hair styles, healthy hair, curly, hair, loc hair, braided hair, twisted hair, coiled hair, textured hair and any other kind of hair in between is propaganda in its purest form. It totes the line of sexism, racism and classism. It separates people. They mainly do things like show images of women with dark skin and woolen hair or use words like "women of color." Sometimes they single people out by using terms like "mixed, ethnic or bi-racial." These people are wrong. Perhaps they are in need money. They might need attention. Some may have a strong dislike for licensed hair stylists. Some may have had bad experiences with heat. Some don't want to sit through cosmetology school. I don't know, but they are out of line. It has been proven by many how race contributes to hair texture not determine. It also has been proven that heat smooths, not damage when used responsibly. This type of propaganda is nothing more than a hustle in every since of the swindling meaning. 

Keep it simple people. Do not make another click on YouTube about hair. You do not need to be a cosmetologist, hair stylist, trichologist, dermatologist, mom-ologist, YouTubeologist, loctician, natural hair guru or hair blogger or anybody in between to know that if it is not hot enough; blah is the result. Blah, damaged poof hair is the result to be exact. So if you want to straighten out your hair, do it. Just remember heat is safe and not enough heat is damaging.