A Few of My Favorite Things!

A Few of My Favorite Things

Raindrops on roses; a Aston Martin to get in
Bright copper jewelry and brown furry mittens
Brown leather Chanel purse and a lot of bling bling
These are a few of my favorite things..

In the spirit of holiday singing and shopping, I revised this song just for this blog!

And, I would be some kind of blogger if I did not write about a few of my favorite and not so favorite things as the year comes to an end. In 2014 some creative folk introduced some interesting hair styling tools to help make this "getting cute thing" easier. Play The Supremes as you read this blog to see if any of your purchases or interests makes the list. 

Throughout the year, I periodically relapse into Ladosha the Hair care junkie. I just can't help it. I'm a hair stylist is my excuse. I try very hard to stick with tradition and stay on course. But then it hits me; the magazine articles, the sales reps, the customers exciting inquiries of "have you heard about..." and it's all down hill before I slip into the abyss of hair styling tools that I just swear will make my work day and my own hair styling better.  So as the year comes to an end my cravings for hair styling tools does as well. During my on again off again binges, I have spent my money and time playing around with and trying out these tools trying to get my next hair fix. Not that I am trying to encourage or discourage anyone, but here is my take on my 2014 hair fix relapses. Some have been worth the trip and others brought me back to reality. Drum roll please...

Air Curler

The Air Curler, in the infamous words of former President, George W. Bush, "Not one iota." In the very vast multi-trillion dollar world of hair care and it's infinite options of what to buy to style your tresses, this one does not cut the muster. Enough typed. Nexxxxxxt.....

Mira Curler

The Mira Curl by BaByliss Pro got my goat. It was the one tool that catapulted my relapse into the abyss! There I stood in the supply store that is supposedly "exclusively" for licensed cosmetologists, in awe as my heart raced as my eyes peered over at this apparatus. Initially, I tried to resist. I thought, "Now this supply store is suppose to be for licensed cosmetologists and barbers only, even though over half the products are sold over the counter how credible can this thang be?" You would have thought the price would have deterred me, but noooooo (in my John Belushi voice), like a feign; I tried it any way and I bought it. And, I liked it. That thang actually worked. It worked on all hair textures, hair weaves. It worked exactly liked the directions and the advertisement said it would. Of course that is rare, but hey this styling tool "creates perfect curls every time!" If you must, treat yourself. I even sold a few to my customers! 

The In Styler, a team of "esteemed 
hairstylists Bruno Meglio, Claudio Marino a design engineer and entrepreneur Michael Ragosta originally partnered with co-inventor Dave Richmond and invented this apparatus" as quoted from their website. While they may be esteemed, creative, dynamic and probably wealthy; they obviously have not consistently tried it on their own hair. I tried to desperately work this one out. However, because I specialize in hair care and not hair styling, I gave this one a

thumbs down. The "In Styler" is to hair what the "Fat Burner Belt" is to belly fat; not very effective. It sounds good in theory but what about practice? In theory, hair has many layers. The first layer is the cuticle (outer layer- what hair is mostly comprised of). Then there is the second layer, the cortex (where the strength and integrity of the hair is). The third layer is the medulla (this layer is absent in fine hair and the verdict is still out on why it's absent in fine hair).  Now considering your hair has all these layers, in practice, when you take a metal coated heated spinning barrel rotating in unison with a synthetic brush bristles, what do you think you get? You do not have to be a hair stylist who specializes in hair care to figure that one out.

I use this one weekly!

Next up, the Maxi Glide. The name says it all. It gives the maximum performance in SAFELY gliding through textured hair resulting in silky smooth, tangle free hair. This one was highly recommended to me during one of those, "Hey, have you heard about..." customer who came to the salon after relocating to Cleveland, Ohio from New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina wiped away her community. I recall anxiously staying up late; night after night to catch the infomercial she told me about. For nights, I missed it. Then finally, I caught it. I watched it and in my Judy Tenuta voice, I said, "It could happen." So I called the 1-800 number to purchase it. I use it to this very day. It is the next best thing to a Kentucky Maid straightening comb (for those of us with thick, dense, wavy, curly and Afro textured hair). For the cry baby, for beginner, for those who do not like taking hours to flat iron and for those who are afraid they might burn themselves...this IS the perfect flat iron.

Speaking of Kentucky Maid, that leads me into my next favorite thing, the Kentucky Maid Straightening Comb. While Madame CJ Walker gets all the credit for inventing the straightening comb, her great great grand daughter Alelia Bundles wrote a book about the life and times of her great great grand mother that includes the truth behind her not inventing it. In fact, it

Ol Reliable a.k.a Kentucky Maid Straightening Comb

was just a few days before Christmas. It was on December 21st, to be exact, that the United States Patent Office awarded Walter Sammons, an African American inventor his patent. And the rest they say is history. In the trained and skilled hands of a licensed beautician this is the "ol reliable" of hair styling that is safe for the scalp and hair. If you have not be taught the family tradition of pressing or straightening hair; then do not attempt to teach yourself or practice on anyone. In the hands of an untrained person, practicing on real people can lead to more than burnt tresses. So, be sure to have someone teach how to properly use it first.

If the good ol' fashioned straightening comb is one of my favorites, you can only imagine the next hair styling tool I like. You guessed it, the Cast Iron Marcel Iron. If you are a new to the career of hair styling, this styling tool may seem to like an ancient artifact. Though it is not as old as a dinosaur, it will remain in the beauty industry until it gets as old as a dinosaur. If one is blessed to learn the "intricate finger twirling heat observing, determining when to actually curl the hair with it" art; they will have a career in hair styling until they retire. Why you ask? The electric curling irons and flat irons always stay at the desire temperature. They never cool down. Well, the Cast Iron Marcel Iron does. Once the desired temperature is achieved to curl the hair, it immediately begins to cool down as the hair is curled. And all hair stylists know that cooler curls lasts longer.

Ol Reliable Jr. a.k.a Cast Iron Curling Iron

Electric styling tools are always hot. When a someone has fragile hair, electric styling tools are not a wise choice. Instead, cast iron combs and curling irons that can be heated in a oven apparatus where a skilled hair stylist can determine how hot the utensil should be throughout styling the entire head are the best option. Using these tools accordingly will result in safe heat hair styling. This tool is best for the discriminating skilled and caring hair stylist. 

The expensive flat iron that works wonders.

Back to the future, the Flat Irons. Flat irons, flat irons and more flat irons. Flat Irons are like smart phones. Both are multi-faceted and can be very expensive. As multi-faceted as smart phones are, for some odd reason, people opt to use them for one common thing and will pay a lot of money for one. At the end of the of the day, rather it is an iPhone or a Droid, both are smart phones. Though they both have different operating systems, both can still make phone calls, allow you to go online and take photos to name a few. The same can be said about Flat Irons, at the end of the day the expensive flat irons and the inexpensive flat irons are still, flat irons. Though they have different heating mechanisms on the inside and different names on the outside; both will still straighten hair, curl hair and shut off if they are left on too long even though people will simply opt to just smooth out their hair. My best advice for this favorite thing is to shop within your budget. If you are $30.00 shopper; go for it. If you are a $180.00, go for it. To keep you from going over board, just look at your phone!

The LESS expensive flat irons that works wonders. 

When the snow drizz makes your hair frizz; it will make you feel so sad. I want you to re-read my blog on My Favorite Things and then you won't feel, soooooooooooo bad (yass, in your Diana Ross voice)!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

The Transition Mission

 Believe it or not, I am not one of those cosmetologists who promotes salon visits. Yeah, I know! As a matter of fact, the main reason I opened a salon was to teach every person who walks in about the hair on their head, how to care for and how to style it. Really, you say? Really!

Afro

Some time ago "relaxer," "creamy-crack," "chemically altered hair" and all that jive started to become the fearing buzz words in the salon world of hair care like the Ebola virus scare came to CDC in the world of viruses. As a cosmetologist with a degree in social science, this craze really caught my attention. Soon, I found myself becoming to hair care what Michael Moore became to the government, the food industry, globalization, assault weapons and the American health care systems; a whistle blower.

Regrowth

While I do not possess the talent to write and produce documentaries; I do have the talent to write. Just as the attack on the Twin Towers in New York, the killings of innocent teens while at school in Columbine and the ignorance to the over consumption of fast foods irritated Mr. Moore to the point of investing his time, energy and money into exposing those wrong doers for what they were worth; the same for me in hair care. 

Flat ironed tresses to the left....

Nothing irritates me more in hair care than licensed hair stylists and hair care companies claiming they can make hair healthy. When they know it is the blood supply fueled by genetics, diet, exercise and bowel movements that does. Another irritant for me is now how all of a sudden relaxers are bad for your health and your hair. I still remain perplexed how the chemists, marketing execs and the companies themselves have allowed the same licensed professionals who educated for them, sold for them, used for them, promoted for them, applied their chemical relaxers to millions of women world wide and encouraged them to charge those millions of consumers worldwide for having their hair chemically altered. I am surprised how they have not backed up their claim that has always been stamped on every tub, printed on every direction in almost every language and taught by almost every instructor; DISCONTINUE USE if allergic reactions occur. To the credit of most companies; they have never claimed that their chemical relaxers were for everyone. The ownest has been and will always be on the person applying the chemical to be trained and follow the manufacturers instructions. 

So here I am today writing a blog about another thing that irks me, the transition scare! Good lawd, some of these hair stylists and hair care companies have lost their minds encouraging those who do not like or have had a reaction to the chemical to cut it all off. I am all for the option to cut it off for whatever reason, if that is your choice. But, when one enters the salon with over processed tresses; to be honest, cutting it off is the best option for the severely damaged hair. Anything less is hype.

Victoria's secret ain't so secret no more.

"TBH," as my colleague Malika Jones always says, when you break down the most common ingredient found in chemical relaxers: sodium hydroxide. The sodium hydroxide is nothing but salt, water and oxygen fluffed up with petroleum, conditioners, synthetic proteins and all that jive which all DRIES out hair to RELAX the texture (curly, kinky, wavy and Afro). It is the HEAT from the hot water, blow dryer, hooded dryer, curling iron or flat iron that STRAIGHTENS the hair. The relaxer never claimed to straighten the texture. The relaxer claimed to RELAX the texture. The side affects those drying chemicals are often excessive drying or irritation to the scalp, neck or/and forehead. Allergic reactions such as swelling, redness, bumps or burning (to those with sensitive skin) has always been explained either on the bottle, in the instructions or in training to licensed hair stylists. Just medicine or any other thing that is ingested or apply topically to your skin can irritate it; so can the relaxer. And for the record anything that is applied topically to your skin, NOT JUST THE RELAXER enters into your blood stream, going directly to your liver and kidneys which will filter out most toxins from the stuff we put on our skin. So if you think creamy crack is just gawd awful, then toss out all that Victoria's Secret,  Bath and Body Works, Flower Bomb perfume, MAC make up and more. I mean most people put that stuff on twice a day every day and more. Some even wash up in it. Do you do that with a relaxer?

The world's best protein

Voila!

So versus being scared to grow out your relaxer, be open to the options of what it takes to do so. If it is your personal desire to cut it off; then do so because that is what you want to do; not because someone told you to do so because relaxers are toxic. 

The easiest and most affordable way to grow out your relaxer is to incorporate a protein treatment into your hair care regiment that protects the outer layer (cuticle) and second layer (cortex) of your hair. If the protein you are using reads that it is only for the outer (cuticle) layer; you may not be impressed with the results and unwanted breakage may continue to happen. If you use a protein that reads that it can penetrate to the second layer (cortex), BINGO you are in luck! The cortex is where the actual strength of the hair is. So using a protein of that nature will increase the likelihood of strengthening the entire strand of hair (regrowth, mid-shaft and ends) which will decrease the likelihood of your hair breaking off at the demarcation line (where the regrowth and relaxed hair meets).

In conclusion, if you add that simple product to your hair care regimen...the transition will be successful. As for what is toxic and can kill you? That is another blog!

Scrub-A-Dub-Dub

Simple and affordable.

The two most annoying things about hair care are by far; de-tangling,  and smoothing it out. While those two nuances get the most attention, scaly scalps ranks number one for many who have this annoying and at times embarrassing problem.

There are many solutions for scaly and flaking scalp. The common "turn to" solutions are anti-flake shampoos, medicines, ointments and creams to name a few. But what do you do when you do not like those options? Perhaps you may not like them because they dry the hair out, or they seem a tad bit too toxic or you are just not in the mood to run out and buy some more. Never fear, the blogger hair junkie is here!

The easiest and quickest solution is directly across from you living room by way of your kitchen! Yep, all you have to do is open the fridge, grab a lemon, walk over to your cabinet and pull out that bag of brown sugar. Yes, that one. The one you haven't used since last Thanksgiving to make those cookies! You can also add a dash of olive oil to make the application process a lot easier.

Quick and easy

I know; nothing taste better that lemon drizzled humans topped with a little sugar! While tasting good is not the objective; looking good is! If your skin , like your scalp, has a tendency to be dry, scaly, discolored, blemished or just plain ol' dull looking, a "lemon sugar scrub" is the answer as well. If you find that the chemical solution of fancy facial cleansers, scrubs and automatic brushes are too abrasive; again, the "lemon sugar scrub is a great alternative!"

How can the "lemon sugar scrub" be good for both your scalp and your face/skin. Easy. There is this naturally occurring acid in sugar called "glycolic acid." In lemons, the active ingredients are vitamin c and salicylic acid. Vitamin C is known for it's super anti-oxidant properties. Anti-oxidants are all about anti aging. Glycolic and salicylic acid are about exfoliating and moisturizing. Exfoliating helps to clean skin of blemishes. It also prevents the skin from clogging which promotes unwanted acne. Lastly glycolic and salicylic acid helps keep the scalp and skin looking young by sloughing off dead skin cells thus helping to regenerate new skin cells that results in glowing younger looking skin.

Great for everyone!

Understand that your skin is the largest organ of the body. The skin is part of your excretory system. Your body rids itself of toxins through the skin by way of sweating, scaling at the scalp and so on. Therefore, keeping it cleaned is imperative. The skin and scalp naturally sloughs off old skin cells as the body naturally generates new skin. The old skin needs to be removed. Regular cleansing with a face cloth and your hands does not have the ability to remove scaly skin and flaking scalps that may have become thick, sticky and difficult to wash off. 

The goal in skin and scalp care is rejuvenation, protection and moisturizing. Instead of going to the local pharmacy and skin care counter to address your scalp and skin problems; walk out your living room right into your kitchen and get to mixing. This solution is safe and great for the entire family. Be careful not to get the lemon juice into your eyes or if you have a cut on your skin somewhere it will tingle. 

Cleanse scalp, body and face first to ensure dirt, make up and other environmental debris are off the scalp, face, feet and the rest of your body. To make the lemon scalp & body scrub, you will need a small bow. Next, roll the lemon around on a hard surface a few times to make it soft. Afterwards, cut the lemon in half and squeeze it. Next add the brown sugar until you get the consistency of a loose paste. Scoop with your fingers and in a circular motion, firmly massage your scalp, face, feet, legs, arms or entire body. Add one lemon as you go along as to not make too much. You DO NOT need to follow up with soapy wash. Simply rinse in warm water and slather on your favorite oil. 

The lemons and sugar scrub provide a natural, safe and effective solution at an affordable cost that is easy to make and effective.

Now stand back and lick ya-self!

The Best Way to Healthy Hair

Healthy hair!

I love my job. It is one that I describe as up front and personal with humans and their whimsical journey through life. So what makes me use a word like "whimsical?" It's the funny naive things that customers say and do as it relates to hair care and hair styling that makes it so whimsical!

For example, I find it funny that many customers really think they have bad hair or no hair. I also find it funny how they will spend more money for products when they already have a supply underneath their bathroom sinks! Lastly, I find it even more funny, when they say they can not do their own hair; when most have never even tried or have been taught. This is where I am at my best!

I love showing people how hair care and hair styling does not have to be costly, intimidating or time consuming. To make hair care easy to digest, I will define hair care as "the act of making time to care for hair via cleansing, stimulating, nourishing and styling." Many people thinks hair care means to either tie it down, pull it into a ponytail, comb it back smooth or simply wash-n-wear and let it go. For the most part, that is the just of it for the sake of time and skill. However, as it relates to the "healthy" part of hair; well there is more. 

More? That is correct, but not a whole lot more. The operative word in this blog is "healthy." To make hair care healthy hair, you have "to do" the act. The acts of getting healthy hair is to actually clean it by way of using the correct shampoo for your hair texture (wavy, kinky, curly, straight and Afro) and type (fine, medium or coarse). Next, you have to use the balls of your fingers with some good old fashioned elbow grease to stimulate your scalp by way of massaging it as you shampoo or massage it. You can also provide stimulation by combing, brushing your hair. Yes, you add certain essential oils to promote blood flow. Blood flow is responsible for nourishing your hair to make it healthy. The last part of healthy hair is creating a style that flows with your image and one that will not promote breakage.  Whew, that wasn't so bad!

Amka, Latin for friend is excellent for all hair types and
is outstanding for color treated hair! 

Keep in mind; styling tools, hair care supplies and hair stylists makes hair look and feel healthy. But the true health of the hair starts with you do the act of caring for it from the inside out as you simultaneously do your part at home to protect your hair care investment.

Rid yourself of those misconceptions in hair care that you either have to pay someone or buy expensive stuff. That is an option for the masses.  For those, like me, who deliberately looks for practical solutions in a busy world; get involved in your hair care and hair styling at home. Wait a while before you re-book another salon appointment, shop online or go into the supply store buying everything hair you see. Please spend some time with your hair. Just as your mechanic gives you tips to extend the life of your car and the doctor gives you tips to maintain your health; your hair stylist can show you few hair care do's and don'ts to preserve and improve the health of your hair. 

In my professional opinion on the best way to healthy hair, is to look in the mirror because the best way to healthy hair is you!

Get involved!

You Could Pay More. But Why?

"It's the most wonderful time of the year," sings Andy Williams as well as every major and minor retailer during this time of the year. The holiday seasons, for most, translates into spending. For others, it translates into making; money that is. Whatever side of the spectrum you are on, getting and giving the best bang for your buck is the name of the game. 

Do you really think these products are "knock offs?"

Did someone say game? As a licensed professional working in the beauty industry for a little over decade, I can tell you that many who work in the industry often throw the word "game" around for the ball it truly is. But for the consumer who spends money in our industry, buying hair care products and styling tools are no game. Now more than ever are knock offs, bootleg and imitation everything more prevalent. Some time ago, the most popular knock off, bootleg and imitations goods could mainly be found in purses, jewelry, watches and movies. Fast forward to today and everything is knock off, bootleg or an imitation. You have knock off Beats by Dre', bootleg apple pie moonshine and imitation flat irons!

Paul Mitchell, Hairdresser, Co-Founder
Paul Mitchell
Hair Care Products

Yes. The beauty industry has its share of run ins with knock offs, bootleg,  imitated hair care products and styling tools. To sound very fancy, some have favored the verb, "diverted." In my opinion, diverted in the area of hair care is a PROCESS when a major hair care company starts off vowing their product can only be bought and sold in a hair salon by licensed professional cosmetologists or representatives of the hair salon; whose (meaning, the hair care company) hair care products or/and styling tool somehow mysteriously ends up being sold in a department store, grocery store, close out store, pharmacy or local beauty supply store. 

Now how could this be you, the consumer ask? Exactly what is so different about the Paul Mitchell, Joico, Redken, Keratin, Biolage, Matrix, Chi flat irons, Baybliss flat irons products and tools that are sold in the department store, grocery store, close out store, pharmacy or local beauty salon from what is being sold in the salon? Nothing.

John Paul Dejoria, Product Sales Rep, Co-Owner,
Paul Mitchell Hair Care Products and
Patron Tequila

I doubt the owners of Giant Eagle, Piggly Wiggly, CVS, Rite Aid, TJ Maxx, Marshall's, Big Lots and ABC 123 local beauty supply store are willing to catch a case for copyright infringement (a.k.a knock off, bootleg and imitation) just so we can use our discount card to get 10% off. I have even heard that these stores do not know that they are buying counterfeit products. I also heard that they are deliberately purchasing these fake hair care products to deliberately attract consumers who buy hair care products to their stores. Now, I don't know about you, but I am not going to the grocery store, TJ Maxx or Big Lots to buy salon quality hair care products and hair styling tools. IJS

When it comes to ingredients or technology in products or styling tools, words like: natural, nano, organic, ions, tourmaline, ceramic, titanium, jade, diamond and the likes, you should know; "you could pay more; but why?"

For a mere $17, 575.00 you could own a Lussorian Flat Iron

What is the difference between $300.00 keratin treatment product used in hair salon to perform the service in a hair salon and the $35.00 Keratin sold at Sally's for you to do yourself at home? What is the difference between the  $150.00 up to 450 degrees ceramic, ionic, tourmaline and titanium diamond encrusted flat iron compared to the Remington up 450 degrees ceramic, ionic, tourmaline and titanium cubic zerconia encrusted flat iron sold at Target? You got it, the price! While one could argue education, location, skill, certified and so on; keep in mind we are talking about the ingredients.

For the record, there is no such thing as generic keratin. Keratin IS hair. Keratin is a protein. Hair is keratin. Hair is a protein. Tourmaline is mineral from the earth; planet earth. There is NO such thing as generic keratin and generic tourmaline. Now when we add our fancy names, pay a few celebrities and their paid celebrity hairstylists who are made to look and sound really fancy by highly trained, skilled and educated marketing, promotion and graphic design people....voila! You now have "high end" keratin treatments and flat irons. 

Understand, that in a America and around the world, money negates the value and quality of things. Also, understand that money negates how foolish we can be at times. Do not be duped by knock offs, bootleg or imitated anything. Likewise, don't believe the hype of "exclusive" fancy hair care products and styling tools endorsed by folk who truly have the money to pay for the hype of high end keratin that is already hair or high end tourmaline; knowing that it is a precious stone from the earth.

For us common folk, turn the bottle around and read what is in it. Purchase from companies who have vested time, money and give back to it's consumers, like Remington. And if you insist on trying what is new in the industry keep in mind that $275.00 iPhone or Galaxy note you purchased just two years ago. Remember when you purchased it, the technology was already out. "Hmm, ye say?"

For a mere $35.00, you can go to Target'
and purchase these!

You could pay more; but why? Please don't say, "QUALITY!"

"It's the most wonderful time of the year. With the kids jingle belling!
And everyone's telling you, "Be of good cheer!"
It's the most wonderful time of the year"

The Mind of Hair Care

Hmmm, the mind of hair care.

Blogging about hair care is a lot of fun. I get to share my experiences about providing hair, nail and skin care. I also get to meet some fascinating people who often times ask me some very interesting questions. As a matter of fact, I think it is the questions that keeps me blogging. And the question that keeps me blogging the most is, how to care for hair.

I must admit, I do find it somewhat of an enigma of how so many women are looking for ways to not have to care for their hair. There are also a large portion of women who also want to know how spend the least amount of time caring for it. The questions of " no hair care, limited hair care or quick hair care" is something of a conundrum oxymoron. Confusing, huh? 

The truth of the matter is, "quick hair care" is like using mouthwash instead of taking the time to effectively care for your teeth. "Quick hair care" is like washing your private parts in lieu of a shower or bath. Exactly what is the conundrum of a oxymoron that makes the quest of "quick hair care" confusing and problematic? Well, it's the word "care." I don't know about you, but to me the word "care" kind of, sort of implies a person who has time to show it. 

A person trying to remove themselves from the equation of hair care is headed for a quick way to a bad hairstyle. I teach every person I serve that when it comes to hair care, they have to do what the hair calls for. There are textures that require very little time to care for it and very little effort to do what it takes to make it look nice. Then there are textures that require more time and more things for you to do to make you look nice. Whatever the case, rather your hair requires a lot of maintenance or not; what it really translate into is how nice to you really want to look and what are you willing to do about it.

Real life hair

The mind of "hair care" is somehow separating you from understanding the very crucial connection you have to doing your hair and how that affects your TOTAL image. Image to many women is very perplexing. The best way for me to produce a beautiful hairstyle for the clients I serve is for me to get a clear picture of their definition of image and NOT a hairstyle. For what is a hairstyle without image? The best way for me to capture what they have in mind is to have them either bring in a picture or select a picture out of a magazine/internet of what they would like. It is during that process that I can begin to capture THEIR mind of hair care. 

When women look at pictures of hairstyles or they begin to graphically explain the hairstyle they want, what they are in fact is selecting or describing is a what I call a "total image." A total image encompasses a total look that is put together by way of fashion, facial care (that includes a spectrum of facial care that is very made up to no make up at all), accessories and attitude that goes with the environment they are currently living in or going to (i.e. work, date, court, red carpet and the likes). However, the disconnect happens when in their mind, they focus on "hair style."

Confidence is beauty

For example, the myriad of hairstyles worn by Halle Berry are often the hairstyles that many women choose. When I ask them what is it about the hairstyle they like, they do verbally point out the layers, or the curl or the part. But when I point out what really makes the haircut is the stylist ability to mesh together all what makes Halle so very Halle.

The truth of the matter is, I have rarely seen a case of a hairstyle, in any facet, that is primarily based on the hairstyle itself. Hair, like jewelry or a scarf, is an accessory. It is part of the total package of one's definition of well kempt. When you think of hair care, think of your total image. Do not separate your hairstyle from you and your image and what you need to do to bring about a desired image. Instead, I suggest you consider bringing together YOURSELF, your hygiene, your hairstyle, your image and your attitude to give you the hairstyle you really want. 

In other words be very deliberate knowing the power that flow, continuity and inclusiveness has to do with the entire scope of the hairstyle that you think will make you pretty. You can not have any part of a beautiful anything, without you.

To rid yourself of this dilemma, understand that the hairstyle alone will not make you pretty. Refrain from going to the hair salon to "get yo hair done." It is a combination of all of you in the mind of hair care. 

Thee oh so very, Ms. Halle Berry

It will take more than a TJ Maxxinista outfit, designer shoes, a Michael Kors purse, an iPhone and some Sephora lip gloss to make that hair cut and style like Halle Berry's. Go the extra mile. Give yourself a facial, put on a smile. suck your gut in and stand up a little bit taller. Get rid of the frown and angst from the trials and tribulations of life. Our beauty inspires others and more importantly it inspires you. If you do not like what you see in the mirror, change it.

The mind of hair care is that the hairstyle is not the cure-all to what you do not like about your hair or want to do with it.

You are!

A Picture is Worth a Thousand Filters

Adorning oneself is innate.

In the world of beauty, there are quite a few things to be said about it. Let's see for example, "Beauty is as beauty does; as beauty gets." "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder." "God does not ugly and he ain't to fond of pretty either." The list goes on. As you could imagine, of all the things that are to be said about beauty, the popular saying that "beauty comes from within" is one that resonates with the masses. This blog ndogo aims to vibe with inner beauty.

No bath like a vichy!

I don't know about you, but I can recall a time when women making themselves beautiful was liken to preparing a fine cooked meal.  Ya know? You talked about what you were gonna cook, who it was gonna be prepared for, what grocery store you would go to, the recipe, the preparation, the serving and the response! In the history of women beautifying themselves, the beautification process was similar. Let's see, there were rituals of milk baths, dead sea salt soaks to Calgon taking us away to vichy showers and sea kelp masques. Women would compliment that cleansing ritual by wearing support under garments to enhance their figure to look svelte or voluptuous. At times, they wore gloves, pumps and so on to take their beauty to another level. 

Classic "Beat Face."

Make up application went from dramatic as Marilyn Monroe or Dorothy Dandridge look to classic and timeless as Audrey Hepburn or Lena Horne. Now the hair, ahh the hair. A hairstyle is to a woman's image what tableware is to a fine prepared meal. No matter how good that food is, no matter where you bought your groceries from and no matter the recipe, if the food is not served properly on a clean table, with clean plates, flatware and glasses; nobody will eat it. The same can be said for a woman's beauty when the hair is compromised! Regardless the clothes, perfume, body type, shoes, nails and makeup; if her hair is hit, everything else is compromised.

In the American cultural of "getting ready," women did what they had to do to ensure a delightful presentation. For, adoring hair to women was as innate as brushing teeth, thoroughly cleansing the va-jay jay and arm pits! It was vital to our image back in the day.  We did what had to be done. Fast forward to today. Sweet Brown's "ain't nobody got time for dat," seems to be the theme of "getting pretty."  I understand times have changed. Nobody wants to spend all that time getting cute. 

But think, have you ever heard an artist say, "Ain't nobody got time for drawing?" To me beauty is exquisite, intricate, unique and individualized; like art.  In order for beauty maintain it artistic value, it needs some tending to. Beauty also need to be appreciated. Appreciation of beauty will be simply defined as things that one can do done daily to appreciate the beauty they have. Things we can do daily to appreciate our beauty today are the same things we had did in the past, like make time for it. 

The epitome of inner and outer beauty. The
incomparable divine Ms. Lena Horne.

We made time for beauty in "real" time. In the day and time of "ain't nobody got not time for dat," beauty does not get tended to. No sir-ree. Instead, beauty gets filtered. Regardless of how popular selfies are now, no amount of filtering will be able to hide the reality of neglect and un-appreciation of beauty. Filtering can not hide reality. 

That is right, at some point you will be seen in real life. Reality will return as the "go to" source for where people will turn when they want to see beauty. Yeah buddy, the days of Stepford Photos are coming to an end, while the return of reality is near. The social network world of filtered photos will be replaced with the reality of what one sees in real life. "Real life" will get you your "likes" "unlikes" and "comments." Real life will reveal the truth about one's beauty. Real life will reveal who is unkempt, fake inflated and filtered. The screens of television, computers, tablets and cell phones that are connecting us via the world wide wide web will fade to black. No more face time, Skype and Tango. We will have no choice but to return who and what is before us in real time.

Kim Kardashian

I am all for the beauty that technology brings. I am all for what technology allows us to share at our leisure at the touch of a thumb. Yet, I cannot ignore the super duper advantage we as humans have over all this technology and what it allows us to do with beauty... see it in real life! 

Good News; Bad News

Remember this!

Providing hair care to thousands of women is very interesting. As a licensed cosmetologist, I am very deliberate in setting the tone with each and every woman, teen, child and male I encounter. The tone I am setting is that I am a cosmetologist who cares. I am a cosmetologist who does not want you to be a slave to the hair salon. I am cosmetologist who wants you to know how to care for your hair and I am just the cosmetologist to teach you.

In setting that tone, most people are excited! I often hear, "I have never met a cosmetologist who teaches you how to do your own hair."  For every person I meet who is excited about learning how to care for their hair, I meet meet three times as many who are not. Believe it or not, in this day in time there remains a large portion of women who do not want to have anything to do with their hair; let alone style it. Well, for those of you who are all too familiar about hating to do your hair, "I have some good news and I have some bad news."

As always, since this is a Blog Ndogo, I have to got to make it short and get straight to the point. Would you like the good news first or the bad news? Bad news it is! The bad news is, there is no such thing as care free hair. All hair (locked, twist, natural, long, short, fade, Jheri curl, finger waves, weaves and so on) requires some form of care and maintenance. "Awe man," you say?  My goal in writing this blog today it to debunk this international misnomer that hair care can be care free. To do so, I have to back it with facts. So here goes it.

Product build up leaves white
scaly flakes on scalp and
hair.

Though you may not agree; I must reiterate, Hair care cannot be care free. The question of why and a barrage of "what if" scenarios comes flowing to me. Let me stop you right there with the honest reason why hair care can not be "none." Because hair is skin. And skin has to be cleansed properly with the right cleansing agent for a specific hair type on a regular basis. There that ends the bad news.

Now the good news. The good news about hair care is that inasmuch as it has to be cared for on regular basis with the right products for your unique hair fabric; it can be done so in more ways than I can type in this blog. Hair care fall under hygiene. Hygiene such as brushing your teeth, washing your arm pits, washing other body parts and so. The body has seven orifices (openings) that are self cleansing. The seven orifices are: eyes, ears, nose, mouth, navel, vagina, buttocks and skin which has follicles (those little tiny holes that every hair on your body grows out of). More good news is that we all know what comes out of those orifices and happens when any of them are not cleansed regularly with the right cleansing agent. Need I type more? Of course not! Can we all say, "ewe!"

This how the scalp looks from Co-Washing and infrequent
shampooing. Do not do this to your scalp. This is why hair looks
dull and unhealthy.

I invite anyone reading this blog to either change their mindset that hair style is hair care or lose their hair.  In reality, hair needs to be cared for in order to style it. Any hair stylist, cosmetologist or natural hair care guru who is deliberate in removing you from the equation of caring for your or is encouraging you not cleanse it with shampoo and is encouraging you to replace your shampoo with conditioner to co-wash is wrong. Any hair stylist , cosmetologist or natural hair care guru who tells you or leads you to believe that shampooing your hair every two weeks or longer is ok; is wrong.

More good news?  Licensed cosmetologists and natural hair care gurus all know that hair thins as we age. They also know that as we age; their hair care regimen needs to change with aging. They also know exactly what happens to hair when it is over soften with conditioners, moisturizers, salves, balms and pomades. Every licensed professional and natural hair care guru knows that the above mentioned hair care practices all do one thing; PROMOTE PRE-MATURE HAIR LOSS and DAMAGE.

Find the right product for your
hair type.

Because the good news only gets better and I have to keep this blog short, I can end with three popular simple solutions if you have been traveling down the quick path to hair loss by not shampooing regularly or have been shampooing it with the wrong products. The first thing to do is go ahead on and accept the fact that you have to cleanse your scalp and hair on regular basis (at least 1-2 times per week). Second, select a shampoo that is for your scalp and hair type. If you do not know ask your stylist. A simple strand test can be done by taking on strand of hair and tug on it. If it snaps quick; it is thin. If it takes a little while to snap; it is medium. And if it never snaps; it is coarse. From there that is how you select the right shampoo and make your purchase. Third and last, be sure the shampoo reads that it cleanses your scalp too. If it reads it only cleanses your hair then that is all it will clean. 

When it comes to the matter of scalp disorders such as dandruff, psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, dermatitis and the like; please go see a dermatologist. Do not allow your hair stylist or natural hair care guru play doctor on your scalp. Doing so almost always results in worsening the scalp disorder. Your grand mother can not diagnose your dandruff and your hair stylist can not treat it.

Some simple solutions to rid your scalp and hair of build up from infrequent shampooing are:

• Making a mixture of lemon juice and water and misting that on to your hair. Let it sit for about 5-15 minutes and shampoo.
• Add about a teaspoon of baking soda to your shampoo, rinse and follow with your favorite conditioner.
• Mix one part apple cider vinegar to 4 parts water and mist on your hair before you shampoo. Let it sit for 5-15 minutes and shampoo off. Or you can mist it on your hair after you condition it to soften, detangle and add shine to your hair. 

Hair care takes patience and time.

Good news; bad news. Hair care takes time. There is no quick way to hygiene. The body makes waste and emits it through those seven openings. Just as you would brush your teeth after eating something that is gritty or foul in odor; and just as you would wash your arm pits the moment you smell musk; the same prompt response must be made for hair. And just as you know the benefits of washing and caring for those other orifices; understand you will get the exact same results when you give your scalp and hair the same attention and response the moment you noticed it was not clean and smelling fresh. Can we say, relief!

Do the right thing and develop a hair care regimen just as you do for brushing your teeth, bathing, cleaning ears and so on so you can reap the benefits of truly having clean healthy hair.

How's that for good news; bad news?

More Hair!

The mighty moon

In the idea world of hair care, it would be nice if all licensed professionals could agree on how to really achieve longer hair. Unfortunately, as with most professions; that is not the case. Because longer, stronger, fuller and thicker hair is a goal for many, this blog will reveal the simplest, most affordable and sensible way of growing hair rather we all agree or not.

In America when we want to give someone the unadulterated truth we say, "the real deal holyfield." In Britain when it comes to giving someone the real unadulterated truth and everything which is necessary, appropriate or possible, the term they use is the "full monty." As a I type this Blog Ndogo on "More Hair," I find giving you the "full monty" is more befitting than "the real deal holyfield." Why?

Because, in order to truly achieve longer, stronger, fuller and thicker hair, "everything which is necessary,

My actual client with REAL long hair!

appropriate and possible" must be shared with you versus the truth. In hair care, truths most times are twisted and vague. To be necessary, appropriate and possible is distinct. Those words will link you to the best solution. Before I actually typed this blog, I thought, pondered and even meditated. 

Even though the solution is rather unorthodox; it is necessary, appropriate and possible that you do it in order to get the best results. So to make a long blog short, the "full monty" on achieving longer, stronger, thicker and more beautiful hair is to care for it during the waxing and waning phases of the moon. What! Yep. 

For example, having your hair cut during the waxing moon phase is best. It is NECESSARY to do so because during the full moon, the blood flows more. Blood flow is the APPROPRIATE and affordable way of growing hair. Blood flow makes it POSSIBLE for hormones to trigger and do their part. Blood flow influences the vital nutrients and minerals that comes from the food we eat and the water we intake to nourish our hair. "Hmmm," ye say?

How could that be? Well, it is no secret that the moon affects the human body by way of influencing our

The full moon, solstices and equinoxes are BEST for growing hair. 

hormones which are responsible for things such as menstrual cycles, blood flow, fertility, emotions and HAIR! There are not too many producers and growers in the world  who would understate the power of the moon and its influence on humans and the earth. As a matter of fact, in agriculture thee ol' Farmers Almanac is one of many arsenals of "must haves" for agriculturists worldwide. They use it to work to their magic to cultivate crops to feed the masses in every nook an cranny of the universe. Even the writers of the Farmers Almanac also duly note that during the waxing (getting fuller) and waning (getting smaller) of the moon is what equally affects both crops and the human body. Astrologers know this, doctors know this, holistic practitioners know this and some hair care professionals (including me!) know this. 

The Morrocco Method International Hair Care Line

If you are interested in getting more of the "full monty" on this ancient, legendary, traditional and customary practice of what is historically called, "Lunar Haircare," there is no one on this planet (who is alive) that can validate, teach and sell you on this than the Hair Shaman himself, Mr. Anthony Morrocco. Mr. Morrocco is also the founder and developer of the quintessential hair care line, Morocco Method International and the Morrocco Lunar Haircut. 

This hair care line is for thee hair care aficionado' in every sense of the term. I encourage all my readers to

Real deal holyfield!

BOLDLY go where no hair care junky has gone before and introduce yourself and hair to the Morrocco Method's lunar hair care system and lifestyle. In brief, the Morrocco Method encompasses a lifestyle of harmony in sync with the moon, a vegan diet, a vegan hygiene regimen and thoughts that are as pure and open to growth and change. Quite challenging you say? Well, if not a lifestyle change is what you are interested in; then using the Morrooco Method as a means of periodically detoxing is a great option or alternative to the boring hair care treatments, diets, chelating (removing of minerals) and clarifying run of the mill stuff that most salons and natural hair care people commonly promote like hair care remedy drones.

Be it world wide, rich or poor, fat or skinny, tall or short, pretty or ugly, long or short; hair care ranks number one for most because adoring ourselves is innate. Do not allow yourself and your hair to go one day longer into the area of unsatisfied. Make your lifestyle, your mindset, your inner beauty, your outer beauty and of course your hair priority one. Check out Anthony Morrocco's Morrocco Method. Get to that next level of inner peace to radiate just as you should. And in the passionate powerful words of Donna and Bridgette...

"Mo hair!"

"Mo hair!" Donna