The Inner You

What type of a blogger would I be if I did not write a blog about the outgoing year and the incoming year? Yes, there is something about the end of those 365 days that makes people want to do 365 more! As a cosmetologist, I can not think of a better way to make wanting to live those additional 365 days again more fulfilling than looking good. 

The National Cancer Society has a program to help women feel beautiful as they recover from various forms of cancer called, "Look Good. Feel Better." I can not think of a better mantra for life in the upcoming 2018 new year. It is true. When we look good, we actually do feel better. The interesting part about looking good is sometimes we can actually look uberly attractive and physically fit outwardly; but inwardly we do not feel the same. On the contrary, mentally we can feel fantastic; yet, esthetically and physically we look a hot mess. To rectify this conundrum, women opt to change their hair. They do so because it yields great feelings and looks great. However, this  resolve yields topsy tervy results which typically goes two directions. In the one direction the result is hate. If their hair doesn't turn out right, they either hate their hair and blame the hair product. In the other direction the result is love. They love either love their hair and love the product. Either way, the objective is truly to look good to feel better or to feel better because they look good. If this type of recourse sounds familiar to you or a loved one, then this blog is for you!

One of the most interesting things I find about working in the beauty industry is how much people want to be beautiful. I kind of liking my experiences to that request to that of someone who works in the ministry or spiritual realm. People got to ministers and spiritual coaches asking for blessing and prayers when they are already full of them. God, Spirit, Universe (or whatever name you have for your higher power) has everything already made in perfection. I know this sounds cliché. But it is not cliché. It is an absolute spiritual and physical fact. Consider two things. First beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. Second, everything comes from within; everything. So feeling good within automatically puts and end to the "want."

Beauty is like art. What one person thinks is junk and scribble; others see it as art. What sees as ugly, fat and jiggly; others see it as perfection. I encourage every one to operate their mental faculties from the mindset of knowing. Know that you are already beautiful. Rather your have a head full of hair or your hair is balding. Own your own type of beauty versus wanting it. 

In relation to beauty, there are many things we can do with and to our beauty. We can alter our beauty or we can leave our beauty as is and proceed. Either way, we have a divine mind called choice to do as we please.

Today beauty has turned into something with two very interesting sides. On one side of the token there is a popular notion called "natural beauty." On the other side, some call it "altered beauty." Now days we have much coming at us to persuade us to choose a side. But, one has to admit the side of the coin that alters beauty is constantly being tossed again with the hopes to not alter. The one thing in beauty that people like to alter the most is hair. People like to alter their hair with water to reshape the state of if to do things like make it curly, puffy, frizzy, curly or straight. Then there are those who like to alter their hair with tools to cut it or decorations to adorn it. Others like to enhance that by adding heat via irons, dryers and the sun. There are also others who like to enhance the beauty of their hair by altering it with chemicals to change the color or and texture. Whatever the choice of alterations, guess what? You can always have the choice to alter it again.

Thoughts are more toxic than any relaxer.

The thing I find interesting about these varying options to alter it is the negative attention given to those who opt to chemically alter their hair. If a person chooses to alter their hair with chemicals they are often warned of the dangers of chemical alterations. People are warned against internal damages to the body, hair loss, hair damage and in some cases death. Yes, I've read and listened to many school of thoughts that are utterly totally and completely against anything synthetic/manmade on hair and the body.

I am no doctor by any stretch of the imagination nor am I any sort of spiritual or wholistic guru who is affluent in the knowledge of either area. However, I am of the genetic makeup from a supreme being. So with that fact, here is the knowledge bestowed in me from my supreme maker that gives me the credibility to respond. 

Everything comes from within. Nothing comes from without. If you use any chemical on your hair and you become ill, trust me; you were ill before you even reached for the box; before  the chemical was applied. Chemicals are energy like illnesses. They all come from someone's mastermind. If the mind generates sick and ill intent thoughts; so it shall be manifested in the external. Chemical application comes with warnings just like bad thoughts. There is a contingency to both modalities. 

I can think of nothing more toxic than a person who personifies, represents and promotes that the external is responsible for the internal. Nothing in beauty could be further from the truth. When you add anything external to an internal that is compromised, predisposed or is at risk, then consideration to what you choose to use externally should be considered with scrutiny.

My mom had this to say about surface beauty, "Beauty is skin deep. But, ugly is to the bone." In other words, a toxic mentality permeates. However, one chooses to alter their hair or image is a very personal decision. What is toxic to one person may not be toxic to the other. Everything is not for everybody. As we adorn ourselves externally, get to know ourselves internally. Discover what is really on the inside that you want the world to see daily. If you wanna fry it, dye it and lay it to the side; in the infamous words of the Rapper Debonair, Shock Gee - "Do what you like."   

Just grab 'em in the biscuit!

And for those who insist that chemicals or altering one's beauty beyond their view or opinion of how it should be done, understand that it is their energy of judging, their undertone of excessive persuasion and harsh words that begins the formation of the toxic thoughts that makes women, girls, teens and men sick from within long before any man made chemical touches and enters the body externally. 

The human body is amazing. Contrary to popular belief the human body wants to be alive. The divine made us so intricately well that it has organs that are designed to rid the body of toxins and even regenerate themselves to keep us living strong healthy lives. If and when the body becomes toxic, please know that you have the power of your mind through choices to change behaviors and affirm healing thoughts that will manifest any kind of healing. You know; what some people call miracles! 

The new year is approaching. Use this magical time to truly begin something beautiful in your mind. While you do have the option to do this at any and every moment in your life, feel free to use the incoming year and date of January 1, 2018 to do so.

According to numerologist Simone Matthews, of universallifetools.com, she writes this about numerology, "Numerology is a most ancient and mystical art form for understanding our own personal cycles of growth & evolution AND becoming conscious of ourselves in the greater context of planetary & cosmic evolution." As for the meaning of the new year 2018, she goes on to write this edifying passage to translate the meaning of the master number 11, "Firstly… in a Universal 11 Year we have the FREEDOM to really SEE ourselves from a greater level of awareness or consciousness.  Just like looking at our reflection in the water, we are drawn during 2018 to take a good hard look at areas in our life where we have held ourselves back, stayed small for fear of rejection, or limited our growth for fear of failure.  What do you ‘see’ when you take a deep introspective look at your life in this  moment, what is the universe reflecting back to you in this Universal 11 Year." To get more information on this topic, please visit her website. It is awesome.

There is only one you. When the maker made you, he broke the mode. Everyone has a divine mind that allows them to only create from within.  How you want to create or alter your beauty including hair is a part of that divine mind of choice. Even if you relax it, color it, loc it, braid it, cut it off, sew it on or glue it on, it is your prerogative to do so. If and when folk go to express their opinions about it; that's ok! They have the choice to use their divine minds for whatever they like or dislike.

Tap into the inner you. Continue to ask your supreme source how you can you express your beauty. Use that information to express yourself and should you choose; your beautiful hair.

The Have Knots

Hide ya wife, hide your hair!

The history of cleaning textured hair is yet another telling story of the downright mean treatment of the Africans who were enslaved. When the story of slavery is told, it has an undertone of people of color who came from a dark continent who were void of content, character, spirit, and purpose. It reads as if the people they stole and enslaved were merely dark colored slaves. This leads into the confusion in caring for textured hair today.

The history of slavery in America tells the story of devaluing human life abusively. This abuse was hash. It was from extreme physical and mental abuse to the subtleties of denying slaves simple human hygiene; such as hair care.

When the Africans were enslaved most don't realize they brought them over with nothing. They were not allowed to practice any rituals of any sort. Many were from different regions and did not speak the same language. So the ability to communicate with one another on how to carry on any sort of ritual was out of the question. Zoe Olivia Rhodes, a student at the University of Warwick in the UK writes this in her dissertation on textured hair that brings to surface the above-mentioned fact, "historically, Afro hair was denigrated by European slave masters. Slaves hair was referred to a wool; contributing towards black slaves being treated as animals and not being human beings." Her research argues, "this behavior came as a response to racist ideology and was meant to devalue the physical attributes of black people in order to sustain white supremacy. Indeed this denigration affected how slaves perceived themselves and resulted in them disguising their hair so it appeared more European or it was covered up." This affliction still haunts many Africans and people with textured hair today. So begins the woes of the haves and the have knots.

Considering Africans were brought here forcibly with no ties to the resources to care for their hair and the belief that they were not humans worthy of soap, water, and a comb; explains the present day mass confusion. In addition, it explains the refusal to ensure that all who are licensed to do hair know how to care for and sometimes style Afro-textured hair.  To reiterate, in the Americas, the start of hair care for Afro-textured hair people started from the mindset of people who controlled them and did not look like them. Remember they believed the enslaved Africans hair was of no pertinent value. Because they believed they were not humans; they taught them all to not clean their hair, not comb their hair or to cover it up.

From there, the madness in caring for textured hair began. Africans and Black people in the Americas pretty much hold on to this belief and practice today. Just as many who practice the ritual of placing a lost tooth under a pillow in exchange for money from the Tooth Fairy. Demanding Africans and Blacks in the Americas to clean their hair more often is like asking them to not believe in the Tooth Fairy. Many still hold on to the belief that cleaning hair frequently is for Whites. Cleaning hair infrequently from 2 weeks to two months is fine for Blacks, bi-racial or people with textured hair. They believe this to be a very effective ritual and practice simply because of the color of their skin, the texture of their hair and the local of where they reside.

This blog aims to debunk both belief and practice. Hair for all humans is an appendage of skin, regardless of race, texture, region or nationality. Hair grows individually from a regenerative organ or tiny hole called a follicle. Every seven years, the body gives each tiny hole or follicle a new strand of hair. The scalp; like the mouth, ears, nose, vagina, and mouth is self-cleaning. Therefore, like those other orifices, the scalp and hair need to be cleaned regularly with appropriate cleansers per the scalp, hair texture, and type.

To clean knotty and textured hair effectively, you must know what kind of textured hair you have. Is it curly, wavy, kinky, Afro or a combination? A trichologist or dermatologist is qualified to identify hair textures and types. You can opt to do one yourself by using a magnifying glass to see the direction the hair grows from the scalp and a simple tug of one strand of hair. If the hair grows straight from the scalp, it is straight. If the hair grows in an angle, it is wavy. If the hair grows in an obvious "c" pattern, it is curly. If the hair grows close and flat to the scalp, it is considered kinky. If there is frizz accompanying any of those growth patterns, it is combined with Afro. Thus making it combination between Afro and the textured growing from the scalp. If you tug the one strand and it snaps quickly, it is fine weak hair. If you tug the one strand of hair and it takes a while to snap, it is medium or normal hair. It is not too weak or strong. If you tug the one strand of hair and it never snaps, it is coarse or very strong hair.

Because slavery was such a money-making venture, the practice of making money made its way into everything; including hair. So, here is where the masses continue to have cleaning hair wrong from White slave masters. How you ask? To clear things up, the semantics used to explain and justify cleaning hair are wrong. For starters, the word shampoo is wrong and used interchangeably. This means more confusion which means more money.

Washing hair, cleaning hair and is NOT shampooing hair. The all have different meanings. Washing hair is a method of cleaning hair with a mild to vigorous scrub with shampoo, but not the scalp. Cleaning hair is to use the proper techniques to ensure that the scalp tingles and the hair squeaks; which means both scalp and hair are properly cleansed. A shampoo is a Hindu word that translates to massage. A shampoo is also the name of the soap people used to apply to hair and scalp to clean it. Let the madness continue as they get rich off the stupidity of the masses.  Shampooing hair and scalp really does and means nothing as it relates to washing or cleansing, again because to shampoo hair and scalp literally means to massage it. So why you may not be getting either cleaned, it sure feels good to get a good massage!

Shampoos are basically soaps with fancy ingredients and names that are formulated to clean hair or/and scalp. All shampoos are not formulated to clean the scalp. Be sure to read the label and instructions before you buy. Conditioners are formulated to help with manageability and appearance of hair. So both are created by scientists who specialize in cosmetic formulations to create a cleansing and softening agents according to hair textures. Those are called shampoos and conditioners.  Both products affect the performance of hair as it relates to cleanliness, volume, shine, sleekness, manageability, color protection, chemical altered fibers, artificial fibers and so on. Again race and nationality are not included in this formulation. Marketing and advertisement are responsible for the introduction of race and nationality to help sell the shampoo and conditioner.

The technique to clean textured hair is different from the technique of cleaning hair that is straight. To clean textured hair effectively, you must part and section the hair, then apply the shampoo (soap) directly to the scalp, scrub the scalp vigorously and conclude this cleansing process with a mild to aggress massage (shampoo). To shampoo straight hair effectively, you can either section the hair into parts and apply to the scalp, then scrub vigorously and conclude with a massage (shampoo). You can also, squeeze the soap (shampoo) into your hands, apply to hair and scrub vigorously into scalp. This process can be repeated 2-3 times if hair and scalp is cleansed within 6 days. If the hair has not been cleaned in over 7 days, the steps must be repeated 4-5 times to ensure flakes, fibrin and yeast are cleansed away from the scalp and hair properly. Hair must squeak in order to be considered clean. If hair does not squeak, then the hair is not clean. If the scalp does not feel tingly, then the scalp is not clean. The scalp must tingle in order to be considered clean.

To condition all hair textured and types effectively, use conditioner according to you hair type and texture just as you do when selecting a cleanser (shampoo). I suggest the language on the bottle speaks close to the language you use to describe the goal you want to see with your hair. Do not purchase conditioners according to your race or nationality. Apply conditioners to the ends of your hair first, then work your way up. Because the ends of your hair are the oldest part of the hair, they need to be conditioned first. After working the product up towards the scalp, use a comb to comb product through hair thoroughly. This assures the product is on every strand. Rubbing conditioners onto hair at the scalp area first does nothing but mosh the product around; thus making it settle to the scalp causing more flakes and itchiness. That will also inhibit the performance of the product giving it bad reviews and making the hair look and feel coated, dull and difficult to manage.

Be sure to use the proper comb for your hair texture and type. Straight hair typically requires larger tooth combs. Textured and Afro hair requires combs with more teeth that are closer and longer to prevent tearing and ripping of textured strands of hair. Using this kind of comb also reduces cramping in the hands and ensures even distribution of products throughout the hair. Lastly, using the proper comb will not damage the scalp.

When cleaning hair be sure to use warm water. Do not use hot water. Hot water will dry hair out, thus making it more difficult to comb and look nice. When conditioning hair, use cooler water. Cooler water causes the tiny hair scales called cuticles or keratin layers to lie flat. This will certainly make hair very easy to comb and shine more. Do not use cold water. Using cold water makes rinsing away the product ineffective and leaving hair difficult to comb and manage. Therefore, be sure to use cooler temperatures.

As you can see having knotty hair requires more than the mere act of purchasing something with images and words that are similar to you and your physical traits. Knotty hair care requires scalp care as well. The methods to cleaning and caring for knotty hair and not so knotty hair has three simple steps in no given order; the right products, the right tools, and the right technique. End the racist practice in hair care, starting with yourself and your family today. Embrace your hair and the time it takes to care for it. Having textured hair makes you unique not a money bag. Understand, people are getting very wealthy off of your ignorance, refusal to change and belief in the hocus pocus magic of the Tooth Fairy. We all know how the money gets their now. It comes a point and time to tell your child there is no such thing as a tooth fairy. There also comes a point and time to tell Africans who have resided in the Americas and have a lineage to slavery that not combing your hair, using a wide tooth comb, co-washing, infrequent shampooing are wrong as well. Instead, follow these three steps. They are as easy as 1, 2, 3. To not follow those rules only results in you being amongst the haves and the have KNOTS!

Peace out!

Revolt

#REVOLT

The salon industry is full of beauty. Creative people are plentiful. Vibrant personalities and artistic designs keeps the smiles coming. It is a place for the unique, loud, prim and proper. It welcomes home boys and home girls alike. Regardless the age, if you can fit in the chair, you are welcomed. The salon industry is happening. 

In all its splendor of artistic flair and technological advances, it needs an enema. Wait, what just happened? The outer appearance, by way of social media and marketing of the salon industry appears to be lose and flowing. However, from the inside it is rigid and stiff. It is not all encompassment. It is segregated. So there in lies the crap and a lot of it. Segregation is the crap that causes our service model to be blocked and backed up. On the outside a person can look perfectly normal, have clear skin, a flat belly and all. But on the inside, their colon is blocked; they are full of crap. We look like we are truly flowing with our colorful artsy tartsy hair designs and fancy salon names. Sometimes we are. But, we need an enema of sorts to loosen up our service model approach to the vast and diverse world of hair; with emphasis on hair care for the textured hair masses. 

What is wrong with the service model, you ponder? Because the salon industry is primarily segregated we do not see it. It is the training of the masses by the powers that be that pretty much teaches and promotes that people of the same race pretty much have the same hair texture. That is false. It is how they indirectly promote segregation. Call it target audience, demographics; you can put any word you want on it. It is what it is. Segregation. And where there is segregation. There is discrimination. No matter how nice we separate those shopping aisle using covert racial undertones such as, "ethnic, women of color, natural hair,

bi-racial and the likes." It looks as if we are finally opening up to the other half of the world who went unnoticed. What other half? What is there not to see? Over 90 percent of humans have some degree of texture in their hair! However, when one observes how hair styles and hair care is promoted, they have to admit, straight hair rules. There is a separate practice and cost for those with textured hair. According  to the 2015 Department of Labor report, America has approximately 688,700 plus licensed cosmetologists. And they all began their education of hair care and hair styling on straight haired mannequins. There is segregation in the education of hair when the mannequins are black and white with straight hair. Textured hair mannequins are not open for discussion; nor are they an option to purchase during the education of cosmetology. The extensiveness of the hyperbole in the beauty industry is shameful. Especially in America. To separate people, then use word play, photos and the emotion quotient in advertisement and education is misleading and deplorable to say the least. At what point were retailers (and of all places; a pharmacy, i.e. CVS) gullible enough to hang a sign called "ethnic" above a hair care aisle? I guess "coloreds only" would bring out the Tiki torch carrying customers, huh? They feel comfortable seeing white people with no texture walk down one aisle and seeing people of color and whites with textured hair walk down another? Dude.

This nonsense has to end. I work in the industry. I have been doing my part to address this nonsense. Attempts are definitely being made to end it; but for the most part, segregation is real. It is ignored, accepted, overlooked. To describe my observation, I will describe what I call, The "segregated" service cycle. This cycle of segregation pretty much consists of approximately 6 simple steps (give or take):

1. Let people know you are a licensed cosmetologist
2. Let people know what you do
3. Let people know where you are located 
4. Let people know what your work hours are  
5. Let people know how much you charge 
6. Let people know what hair care goods you sell. 

In return, the customer:

1. Arrives at location
2. Request what is on salon service menu
3. Pay services rendered
4. Purchase recommended hair care goods (optional)
5. Refer clients
6. Rebook appointments

We are pretty much trained to do business with people who look like us. To sum it up, you get what you pay for. Sounds fundamentally sound right? 

Wrong. Why?

You are not getting what you paid for. You are getting what you "wish" you could get when you pay for it. First of all, everyone knows the world is diverse. Segregation does not work effectively. It overtly screens out certain people. When people are screened out, people are at risk. Second, race has very little to do with hair. Yet there is a discriminating distinction between those with texture and those without texture. There is a discriminating distinction between those who are of color without texture and those who are of color and no color with texture. You gasp?  

Both hair stylist and customer need not lie, deny and turn heads in another direction as if this segregated cycle is functioning. The segregated cycle is not functioning. People are woke and alert. The race card is not being played too much these days. A paradigm shift has taken place within the hair salon industry where customers of every race with textured hair are fed up with the covert segregated cycle. 

While the internet, blogs, YouTube, certain celebrity stylists, multicultural salons and other social media outlets have offered some relief; textured hair consumers remain under served. They are forced into a section called "ethnic" for no reason. They embrace the "natural hair movement" as if straight hair is not  natural. The separateness leads to cyber bullying, discrimination, and racism. And what is this new buzz word I'm seeing, "cultural appropriation?" They are using this term to slander straight haired women who wear cornrow or box braids. Geesh. This nonsense leaves customers and consumers feeling fed up, scorned and left out.

I remain stunned. How can I help the fed up, scorned and left out customers?They have some how fallen through the cracks of the very industry that is supposed to help them. The world of hair styles and hair care is utterly, totally and completely filled with diversity and textured hair. So what am I to do?

REVOLT.

I looked up the meaning of revolution to make sure the word could capture my sentiments. Is a revolution the solution for who I call the "textured hair masses?" Of the many definitions of revolution, I chose one that read, "Revolution is the forcible overthrow of a social order in favor of a new system."

Real life hair care.

"Yeah," I thought to myself, "A revolution is the solution. Hashtag revolt!" So, with my pumped fist, fervor and excitement, I typed "the revolution will be live."  Gil Scott Heron, the famous spoken word poet who wrote about revolution in the 70's was right when he spoke, "the revolution will not be televised." The segregation towards textured hair consumers and customers within the hair salon industry has brought about much dysfunction and mis-education. Along with it are unprecedented practices that yield ill-prepared hair stylists and a heart broken customers.

For the most part, the segregation within the beauty industry reminds me of a dysfunctional relationship. It has secrets and wives tales that are as valid as alternative facts. It is full of remorse, regrets and resentments. And like a bad relationship, both parties ultimately conclude, that karma is real. What goes around comes around. Segregation and dysfunction reflects lack of self love. We must learn to teach and help people care for their textured hair.

I will help. I will teach. This is the revolution in hair care. It is live! I am starting this revolution by replacing that segregated cycle with a new textured hair care world order! The new cycle is The Wright Method for all hair textures (regardless the race). The Wright Method has three simple steps. This system is user friendly to both the hair stylist and customer.  Great hair requires three simple steps in no given order regardless the color of your skin, the texture of your hair, the service requested, location of the salon, hours of salon operation, cost of goods, cost of service; rather you re-book, refer or purchase retail. The Wright Method is as follows:

1. The right hair care products for your unique hair fabric
2. The right hair styling tools for your unique hair fabric
3. The right technique(s) for your unique hair fabric

This is my revolution. This is my revolution in hair care. It reminds me of the revolution during the outbreak of the AIDS virus in the early 80's. There was a belief that AIDS was contagious and airborne.  Along came a group of doctors who partnered with CDC (Center for Disease Control) to revolt. They wanted the segregation that resulted in discrimination against those with HIV/AIDS virus to end. Together they created and implemented "Universal Precautions." This drastically reduced paranoia, ignorance while simultaneously protecting the spread of all viruses. It all but stamped out the discriminatory practices against those with HIV/AIDS. I am suggesting everyone and all companies adopt "The Wright Method" where everyone with any type of hair texture can be serviced effectively.

I am inspired. Part of being a revolutionist is to not merely point out what is wrong. Remember a true revolution not only forces out and overthrows what is not productive to the masses, it vehemently is in favor of a new system! Are you ready for a revolution?

My simple method replaces segregated cycle of dysfunctional hair care for those with textured hair to a desegregated cycle that functions for all hair textures.

Join the revolution. It is live. I am coming to a city near you. "The Wright Method" will be promoted via public speakings and teachings. My appearances consist of a presentation, Q&A and a pop up shop.

Serious inquiries, email or contact me at 216-321-1101.

The Strength of Hair

One of the most interesting things about being a hairstylist is the large number of customers who have so much misinformation about hair.

Ewe, damaged hair!

Prior to becoming a hair stylist, I worked in the social service field. I could see the connection between this new phenomenon called "the internet" and the inquiry of hair care. It was as if every woman was on a personal quest to find out about the behind the scenes of hair. They wanted to know what is going and what is not going on in the hair salon. So to that point, it was in social work that I learned just how little information customers were getting about their own hair in spite of paying hundreds of dollars for months and for many years to have their hair cared for and styled.

The agency I worked for would on occasionally pay for hair styles to use them as incentives for positive reinforcement for clients. So while they were being motivated to grow via an occasional hair style, some of that was done in vane because many walked away with just that; a hair style. During that time many women revealed much disappointment in their salon experience by way of the conversation being focused on the stylist, social issues and gossip. The disclosed just how little hair care and care of their own hair was being discussed.This type of service was unfortunate. Those services were truly being paid for with the intent to promote a positive image of self. Many walked away feeling as if their incentive was purely for the financial gain for the stylist as they got a hair style for the moment.

While I no longer work in the field of of social service, as a hair stylist, I still see the conflict women have with their hair and their image. The struggle is real for those with textured hair trying desperately and consistently to find solutions to the challenges of caring for textured hair. 

Rather it is wash and wear, twist out, corn rows, press and curl, silk press, weaves, roller sets, braids, bantu knots, locks, coils, hair cuts, hair color, bald heads and everything in between; the challenge of how to achieve and maintain remains a very frustrating enigma. What is a girl or guy to do? How could it be, that I've spent hundreds of dollars on hair care products and salon visits and I am still not satisfied with my hair? 

The answer lies in the anatomy of each strand of hair. When people think of their hair or touch it, they often associate the head of hair as a bulk versus each individual strand. I feel in my heart that taking people on simple visual  journey of their unique fiber (regardless the texture) can help make the daunting tasks of hair care not daunting! Notice,I did not write easy or quick. Caring for textured hair is not quick or easy. Caring for textured hair is routine. It requires a regimen. Once you get into your regimen, it becomes habitual; not necessarily easy. The more you fight the reality of the regimen your unique fiber requires, the more daunting the task of hair care and hair styling will indeed be. 

To make hair care and hair styling compliment your lifestyle; take the time to get a clear understanding and knowing that hair care is something you must do for your hair on a daily basis.. From there pick a day(s), time(s), and commit to it. Hair care and grooming is very similar to oral care, fabric care and body care. If you don't do it in a timely fashion with the right products, right tools and the right technique; bad teeth, bad breath, faded clothes, bad skin and body odor is the result. So while you may tire of personal, oral hygiene routine, you do it. Ultimately, you get in the habit or routine of  managing them all. You understand what it takes in its entirety and what is required to preserve the life and appearance of them all.

This is a result of the wrong comb, products
and hair styling techniques.

Understanding the hair on your head is simple requires the same thought processes and acceptance that a routine is a must. To help you get your hair care routine mojo going below outlines a few VISUAL guided facts about hair and scalp that will give you a clear depiction of exactly what is going on top of that head of your!










Drum roll please:

• Know that the scalp is a microbial habitat that needs to be cleansed once to twice a week.
• See each strand of hair for what it's worth. One of many! 
• Each strand of hair has multiple cuticle layers that look like shingles on a roof.
• The objective in hair care is to keep those layers in tact.
• Keeping those layers in tact protects the cortex.
• The cortex where hair gets its the strength.
• The cuticle and cortex is strengthened by using the right products, styling tools and right technique.
• Wide tooth combs scrape, tear and compromise the outer cuticle layer; thus further compromising the cortex layer.
• Using water to style hair causes the outer cuticle layer to swell, buckle and snap. This too further exposes the cortex layer.
• Applying conditioners and synthetic oils to the scalp will clog the mouth of the follicle. 
• The mouth of the follicle is the tiny whole each hair grows from.
• When the mouth of follicle is clogged, hair growth becomes compromised rapidly.

There is much hype about the outer layer of hair as it relates to the cuticle. While cuticle care is vital to hair care, remember the color of hair and the true strength of hair lies in the cortex layer. And in hair care, the goal is to protect that cortex layer of the hair to ensure great curls, braids, color, weave, textures, waves, fros, kinks and everything in between. 

Seeming as color and strength are pretty much the primary goal or concern of many when it comes to the appearance and performance of hair, I hope this helps.

Do not make hair care difficult. Keep it simple. Find a routine that suits what your hair fiber calls for and stick to it until it changes. When the texture of your changes, change your regimen. The texture of your hair will change as you age. 

As long as you recognize that protecting that cortex is what is truly responsible for the integrity of each strand of hair, then you too will KNOW the strength of your hair!

The Best Hair Moisturizer

Hands down, the number one complaint about hair is that it is too dry. All day every day, everywhere; someone is complaining about dry hair. In addition to complaining about dry hair, people also complain about the difficulty of finding the right product to remedy their dry tresses. They are in constant search for the perfect moisturizer. Oh, but the search becomes a tad bit tricky if one person's hair texture is different from the other. For example, those who have straight hair, are looking for something that will make their hair feel silky, more smooth, shine more and less likely to revert or frizz.  For those who have curly or Afro textures, they are looking for a moisturizer that will make their texture spring, coil, curl, wave while at the same time giving it some slip and actual moistness. Both hair types loathe the dry, frizzy, dull, and brittle feel to their textured hair. 

Well, guess what? The solution to dry hair, rather it is straight or textured, is NOT a topical moisturizer or moisturizing treatment of any sort! I know, sayings like, "Stawpitt Judy!" or "Whatchu talkin bout Willis,"  comes to mind, right? Yes, my wonderful hair junkies, knotty know it alls, natural knowers, textured Titans, and organic only's, moisturizers in the world of hair care ain't what they are pretending to be. Most products that claim to moisturize hair, do not. They simply coat the hair; thus making it literally dry.

But, why? How can that be? Read on before you click that mouse and search for more answers. You know the name of my blog is, "What They Don't Tell You at the Hair Salon," right? So let me tell you what they are not telling you at the hair salon. After you read this blog, you will have a clear understanding of what to do about your hair that you have been lead to believe is dry and is in need of moisture.  

Holy, smokes and gee whiz!

First, what they don't tell you at the hair salon about moisture and hair is that moisture for hair is an internal process. Properly moisturized hair only begins with a well-hydrated body. Before you purchase another bottle of moisturizing anything, I urge you to pick up a bottle of water or pour you a few cups and drink up. If you hate water, then your hair will truly be dry and no fancy moisturizer will help. 

Second, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that each fiber of hair consists of several outer layers that comprise of what we see (hair on our heads) with the naked eye called keratin. Another term for keratin is cuticle layer.  If you were to look at each strand of hair fibers under a microscope, those fibers would resemble fish scales or shingles on a roof. The objective to hair feeling, being manageable and looking a certain way is in direct association with that very tiny microscopic keratin or those cuticle layers. Also, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that those tiny scales or shingles must always lay flat in order for your hair (regardless the texture or

hairstyle) to feel and look nice. So, when you touch your hair and it feels brittle, gritty and frizzy, what you are actually feeling are those tiny microscopic scales that are raised. Because you are not aware that those keratin or cuticle layers are actually raised, your mind associates the feel of your hair with dryness. That is why the objective in hair care is to keep that tiny microscopic keratin or cuticle layers flat, not moist. If those layers are raised in any form, the result is hair that feels rough, gritty and brittle. Your hair will also tangle, mat and knot easily. From there, your hair will begin to snap and break. Then when you look at your shirt or in the sink or on the floor; all you will see are frayed fibers lying about. The next thing you know, you are running to the salon or beauty supply store in search of a moisturizer to stop what you think is dry hair from falling out. On the other hand, if you use products that actually 
coat and keep the hair physically damp, more breakage, musty smelling, and snapping is the result.

Third, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that 90% of all hair care products primary ingredient is water. When water comes into contact with hair, the result is buckled, swollen cracked, gritty, brittle and rough feeling hair. Just as water damages wood, fabrics, metals or skin; it does the same to hair. Initially, when anything is immersed in water it looks and feels great. Take a moment and think about how sexy you and your hair looks when wet. Place your clothes in water; notice the colors look so rich and moist. Now place your favorite flatware in water; it too looks amazingly more vibrant in color and shiny in appearance. Now step out the water or remove those items from the water. Next, allow them to air dry. How does your skin feel? How do your hair, face, and feet feel? What about your flatware? How do they look? Now touch them. Feel free to apply oil or some sort of shining finisher in the water or on your items. Hours later, touch your body, hair, face, feet, and items again. How do they feel? Still a somewhat rough, gritty and brittle, huh? 
Feel me? Yeah, buddy, that's how they getcha.

What they are not telling you at the hair salon is that you have been trained and taught to verbally express raised keratin or cuticle layers as dry hair. And since they really want more money, they have also trained you to believe that now your hair is damaged. Damaged hair, dry hair, brittle hair, color faded hair, dry relaxed hair, dull breaking locks, frizzy cornrow braids, tangled nappy hair, dry limp hair are all synonymous raised keratin or cuticle layers. 

Now for the kicker. And just as those words are synonymous with keratin and cuticle layers, so is protein! Shocking isn't it? Say it ain't so, you declare?

Don't believe me? Click on another link and read for yourself. 

Welcome back. Quite interesting isn't it? Keratin, cuticle layers, and protein all mean the same thing. Damn semantics. Semantics are the things I do not like about the "American English" language. They play too much with them words...LOL 

You are getting sleepy...

What you have been deliberately misled to believe is dry, tangled, knotty, nappy, frizzy, dull, weak and damaged hair is actually raised keratin, cuticle or protein layers. So what raises them? Aside from water; combing, brushing, braiding, twisting, heat, locking, relaxing, coloring, and wearing fabrics on your hair that absorbs moisture like cotton, and the likes are all that contributes to raised keratin, cuticle or protein layers. Basically, whenever we do any form of grooming our hair in any hair style we can think of, we compromise those layers by raising them. From washing it to weaving it; those layers will inevitably raise.

So why are hairstylists calling it dry hair? Why are they suggesting moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, treatments and styling agents? Ignorance and money. Ahh, but you knew I was gonna type that. See, most hair stylists are simply not trained enough to understand hair. The varying hair textures and types require different types of cleansing and conditioning agents. Not all hair types require a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. Hair care products are formulated for hair types and textures. Some textures need moisture and some do not. They are mostly trained and certified by schools and hair care companies who want their money like they want my money and yours. The manufacturers have to tap into our emotions and our association with things to get us spend our all mighty dollars with their brand. And what easier way to get our money than to tap into anything that makes you feel good, even if it doesn't work? "Holy smokes and gee whiz," that's what I said!

If all hair stylists were educated, trained and licensed to understand hair and the chemistry of these hair care products and ingredients, the eb, and flow of selling what is needed to customers would flow right along with happiness and profits.

By now you should be ready to take action and be in charge of your purchasing power. You have the right information. Now, what is your actual resolve to those raised layers that leaves hair feeling rough, tangled, nappy, brittle, gritty hair that is dull, snaps and breaks? 

Eat your way to healthy hair.

The answer is protein. "Whatchu talkin' bout Dosha?" I am well aware of people's hatred of protein. But for the record, humans are lean mean protein-making machines. Without those 23 amino acids, our building blocks to life will come crashing down. We not only need the 23 amino acid in our diet for our bodies, they are equally important in hair care. So, what you want to do is first eat your way to your protein. Then purchase products that have protein in them. The best and most effective proteins are going to be your soy, wheat, quinoa, crystal quartz, natural clays from the earth such as bentonite clay and of course keratin. The molecular weight of these ingredients is tiny enough to be absorbed into the hair via those keratin, cuticle or protein layers. Heavier protein molecules from eggs, mayonnaise, and heavy oils take longer for the hair to absorb. Manmade, hydrolyzed or synthetic proteins will suffice. There are many others, but those work best, they are easier to access and are affordable. In addition, moisture binding ingredients for those who wear their textured hair work best to keep the keratin, cuticle or protein layers sealed. For example, aloe vera gel, alpha-hydroxy acids (from fruits), egg yolk, glycerine, honey or molasses to name a few. For those who wear their hair straight or heat styled, use products that have anti-humectants in them. Anti-humectants ward off moisture and keep your straight, silk press or heat styled hair from reverting. Again, remember to drink plenty of water and eat protein rich foods. Annette Hollimon, Wholistic Practioner and Reiki Master of Forever Phoenix located in South Euclid, Ohio recommends that you drink half your weight in ounces to achieve proper hydration. She also recommends getting your protein from whole foods and fresh vegetables. 

Lastly, understand, that hair feels better and readily absorbs the benefits from any ingredient, be it natural, organic or synthetic when it is clean. Therefore, be sure your hair is clean to reap the benefits of whatever you will be using on your hair. The longer you go without cleaning your hair and using the now trending co-wash option to care for your hair, the more those layers will remain raised. The longer the layers remain raised your hair will become more compromised. Also, your hair care will be more expensive.

As for the deliberate attempt to dupe consumers on what moisturizing hair is all about, I hope you find this blog informative and helpful. Share it with your friends. Make it a part of your group discussion. Teach your children about this as well. And the next time a hair stylist or someone suggests a moisturizing treatment of any sort for your hair, tell 'em...

"Aww, dry up!"

Summer Madness

You better not wet my hair!

I once came across a summer quote: "An ocean breeze puts the mind at ease." Well, it sounds pleasant, nice and relaxing, but whoever came up with that phrase was certainly unaware of just how many people are hesitant about savoring the rays of the summer sun and taking a dip in the ocean or pool all because of their hair!

Nat King Cole crooned it best in his song, “Those Lazy-Hazy-Crazy Days of Summer,” a time when people look forward to doing everything or nothing, all in the name of fun and relaxation. For many, it is a time to travel. It is also a good time to finally finish that book you have been reading, catch up on old movies, visit family, work on other projects or sit on the porch with a tall glass of lemonade or sweet tea as you curse winter. Summer usually find us throwing caution to the wind, going for some spice in our life or simply chillin’. I always say, people who take after the legendary hip hop artists, MC Lyte, Milk Dee and Giz like to chill! 

Yes, summertime is good and the living is easy, but not if you have to continuously stress about your hair. When people who are hair obsessed realize summer is fast approaching, they begin to make all kinds of commitments and plans on how this summer will be different. They come up with new rituals for their summer hair care routine. Of course, they want to have all the summer fun they can squeeze in, but fritting and fretting about their hair always seems to be a heavy cost they have to pay. Between the heat and the thought of having to go near water, people (especially women) are consumed with outright fear. For them, the very thought of having their hair in the summer heat or even in water will have them turning into Gizmo from the 1984 fantasy horror movie, Gremlins.

What is it about the summer heat and the water that scares these "Gizmo Scared Haired" people? Well, whether you recall the movie Gremlins or not, here is a little trivia. In the movie, the Gremlins were all very nice and sweet. But, there are three key things you can never do to a Gremlin. One: They cannot be in sunlight or hot lights. Two: Water for Gremlins is absolutely, positively out of the question and Three: Gremlins can have no food after midnight. Hmm, sound, familiar? Minus the no feeding after midnight part, the "Gizmo Scared Haired" people have numbers one and two in common with the Gremlins. Two out of three is not bad. So…I affectionately name people who are afraid of the sun and water during the dog days of summer after the main Gremlin character: Gizmo.

Listen up my "Gizmo Scared Haired" people! There is no need to fear the heat of the sun, or any light for that matter, when it comes to your hair. The sun is actually extremely good for hair. YES, I said that! Of course, basking in the sun does come with precautions.

Now, what are a few ways you can turn your hair into "sun friendly hair?”  Easy. The first thing is to know your hair. Then, know you, know your time, know your budget and know what makes you feel confident. 

For many, the sun poses a threat because the heat that emanates from the sun can wreak havoc on

hair, its color, style, texture and scalp. The easy resolve to contend with sun on your hair is to:

▪           Use a small amount of sunscreen on your hair and scalp.

▪           Wear a hat to protect your scalp and hair color.

▪           When wearing your wash-n-wear style, ditch the diffuser and allow the sun to dry your

curls, kinks, waves or Afro naturally. When prepped right, your hair will glisten. 

▪           For wash-n-wear hair styles, use an ample amount of your favorite styling agent to help form texture and hold the style.

▪           Leave-In Conditioners infused with proteins made of keratin, soy, wheat or quinoa ensures your hair texture will remain intact.

▪           Be sure to use the right comb. The wider the teeth on the comb, the more microscopic tears you will have in the individual strands of your hair, thus making your hair more susceptible to sun damage.

Next up for the "Gizmo Hair Scared" people is water. The first thing I want to do is assure you that you will not turn into Gizmo or a Gremlin if you get your hair wet. I also want to say for those of you who travel abroad to exotic waters, oceans, seas, lakes, private beaches and what not…please get your hair wet. You should not deny the dominant connection of your hair, scalp, body and spirit to its home—Mother Earth/Nature.

Here are the reasons why:

▪           Water from the ocean/sea is very purifying for hair and skin. 

▪           Water from the ocean/sea detoxes hair and skin.

▪           Water from the ocean/sea is rich in vitamins and minerals.

▪           Regular shampoo easily washes away the salt and residue from hair.

▪           A vinegar and water mix neutralizes mineral (salt) deposits left behind in minutes.

▪           Dipping your hair into the water feels amazing.

If you are concerned about the manageability of your hair upon getting it wet, here a few things you can do to reduce the likelihood of tangled "Gizmo Scary Hair."

▪           Braid your hair to keep it from matting.

▪           Wet your hair with tap water FIRST before getting into any body of water. Hair can only 

absorb one chemical at a time. Since tap water also has minerals, it will deposit those minerals into the hair thus reducing the likelihood of absorbing even more minerals from the ocean/sea water.

▪           Using a leave in conditioner with the right comb ensures "ouch-free" combing for Gizmo people.

Milk to the left and Giz to the right
"Top Billin'"

As you can see, the summer madness in hair care is fueled by lack of preparation and anxiety. Don't let the summer drive you mad about your hair. Like the Gremlins, all you have to do is take a few precautions before getting into the sunlight and water. If you proceed with caution, there is nothing to fear. Be wise when it comes to your hair. Be prepared. Have your hair necessities with you wherever you go. Remember: No one has hair like you. Your hair is like your fingerprint: no one else can match it. When you accept your hair’s unique fabric and do what the fabric calls for, you will be happy like the other Giz....chillin' and top billin'!