Tuesday, June 7, 2016

Shedding Hair

Request or nah!
Working behind the chair as a cosmetologist can be similar to working as a DJ behind the turntables. Like DJ's cosmetologists get many requests. And like DJ's we like to fulfill what people are asking. In addition, like DJ's we also get a lil tired of getting requests for the same thing. 

Of all the things I tire of getting requests for, it would be the request to alleviate shedding hair. Shedding and hair breakage is like a classic song that you will have to put up with pretty much for the rest of your life. Currently, I am heavily involved doing research on follicle care. The research is so very interesting and full of splendor! The research is, of course, helping me in my day to day operations as a hair stylist. Recently, The Physiological Reviews Journal reports that “the most important theme in studying the cycling hair follicle is that the follicle is a regenerating system.”

With the scientific fact that the follicle is an organ that has a natural cycle to regenerate itself; like that Fifty Cent song "In Da Club," you are gonna see hair shed and break over and over again just like that song. It is a natural process of the regenerative life cycle of the every hair fiber on your hair. However, when it comes to hair shedding and breaking; one should not see excessive amounts of hair in the comb, in the sink, tub, floor or shower. 

Hair breakage

In order to get a grasp on hair shedding, hair breaking I will expound upon other culprits such as hair thinning and balding/hair loss fall under hair shedding and breakages.

Hair shedding is part of that "regenerating system" I learned about during my research. Your hair lives inside of an organ called a follicle (the tiny whole your hair fibers grow from). Your hair is formed, nourished and grows from a tiny bulb called a papilla. Before your hair becomes the strands you see growing from your scalp it goes through 3 phases. The first phase is the anagen phase which is the actual growing phase. It lasts up to 6-7 years. So that other request of what can I use to make my hair grow? Stop asking. And by all means, please stop buying products that make hair grow. It grows for free. The second phase is the Catagen phase. It is the resting phase that lasts about 2-3 weeks. During this phase, the hair is literally resting and the body is not making any hair. And the last phase is Telogen. This phase lasts 3 months. This is where the hair actually sheds. You will be able to differentiate between a strand of hair that has shed and a strand of hair that has broken. Hair strands that have shed will have little tiny white bulb attached to the strands of hair. On an average, you will see a lil over one hundred strands per day. That would look like about a teaspoon size amount depending on your length. 
Hair shedding

Most people do not understand that all hair fibers do not shed at the same time. Each strand of hair grows from its own follicle (organ). Therefore, they do not all grow and shed at the same rate. It is fair to conclude that at the end of a 7 year, or so cycle, you will have a new head of hair. So, do not panic at the constant shedding; for it is a reflection of new hair that will be growing in. You can woo sah now!

Using too much of anything compromises hair.
Next up is "breaking and snapping hair." The difference between shedding hair and breakage is the bulb. Remember, shedding hair will have the lil tiny white bulb attached. Breakage will not. Breakage is normal as well. Especially if you manipulate your hair frequently. Examples of hair manipulation are combing, braiding, heat styling, sew in's, chemical services, friction from wearing scarves, hats, brushing and the likes. Doing these things aggressively or using the wrong comb/brush are the number two culprit to hair breaking and snapping. In addition, leaving conditioners and super softening agents on your hair too long will cause hair to snap and break. Coconut oil, conditioners, synthetic oils, pomades, silicones mineral oils and petroleum are examples of super softening agents that folk apply when manipulating their hair. Unfortunately, they are typically the culprits to excessive snapping and breakage. Another cause to unwanted hair breakage and shedding are sulfates and sulfate free ingredients that act like sulfates on the hair. Sulfates and sulfate free ingredients are chemicals that most manufacturers use to clean hair. While they are cheap, universal and common in almost every kind of shampoo your money can spend, the side affects are often hair breakage and shedding. They actually speed up the telogen phase of the hair growth process. So buyer beware. Don't be duped by all this fancy sulfate free, natural and unfortunately certain organic ingredients that act like sulfates on your hair. 

Hair thinning is the natural process for all humans as we age. What happens is the follicle (the tiny hole that the hair is growing from) actually shrinks and gets smaller; thus producing hair that is thin, fine, limp, weak and very susceptible to breaking. While aging is a given for all, there is nothing we can do to stop it. However, we can slow it down. The best way to slow down thinning hair is to reduce the heavy products used to care for and style your hair. Use fewer styling products. On an average, you only need a maximum of 3 styling products to produce a beautiful long lasting hair style. If you swear that you need more, then you are most definitely using the wrong shampoos. But that is another blog. Thinning hair can also be hereditary. Therefore, be mindful of what you use and pay attention to your comb and brush when styling your hair to make sure that you are not physically snatching your hair out. Infrequent shampooing will certainly promote thinning hair because you are not getting the blood supply to feed the hair bulb the nourishment that is needed for your hair to grow. So if your are shampooing your every 8 days and beyond; eventually your hair will thin out, grow in weak, snap or break off and you will not see your desired length or density. Heavy products clog the follicle and leave no room for the hair to grow from. Do not apply conditioners or other heavy or thick styling agents to your scalp. Never. Doing so will promote thinning. These products are not formulated to apply directly to your scalp. Doing so typically results in scalp irritation which can promote hair thinning and breakage as well. Dring plenty of water, eat a sound diet, boo-boo and get some rest to promote hair that grows and will be strong as well. Using products that are rich in wheat proteins, keratin, essential oils and herbs are sure to be a winner in seeing noticeable long lasting results for those with issues of breaking, balding, hair loss and thinning hair. 
Infrequent shampooing is sure to promote thinning.


Lastly, is balding and hair loss. Both conditions have a few culprits. For many scalp disorders fueled by compromised immune systems can result in things like varying forms of alopecia, which results in hair loss. Alopecia happens when the communication between cells and hormones become very confused by a compromised immune system that actually sends the wrong message to attack the hair's ability to actually grow. For some this can happen in certain areas on the scalp, for others it is all over the scalp and for some it is every hair on their entire body (eyebrows, eyelashes, armpits and so on). This condition of hair loss is best supervised by a doctor or licensed holistic practitioner. Another culprit to baldness and hair loss is the Demodex mite. I know, "ewe!" Yes, sirree bob. The Demodex mite is a very tiny microorganism that actually eats away at the hair inside the follicle and the hormone DHT (dehydrolyzed testosterone) helps feed the mite as well. While there are many salon quality products claiming to get rid of this bug, research says it is virtually impossible considering it is in your blood system. Therefore, medication, essential oils, and herbs are the only sources that can effectively enter your blood stream and kill off those mites. Wearing hats, scarves and doo-rags help promote the loss of hair through the friction of wearing them. When this mite eats away at hair, your hair is actually growing in thinner; thus making it very weak and fragile. Hats, scarves, and doo rags rub away at the hair and hair loss happens that much faster. 

As you can see hearing the same old request to get answers to why hair sheds can be extensive, The request can get a little boring like getting those same song requests. And much like hearing the same old song, seeing hair in the sink, on the floor, on your clothes and so on is the norm. It is the excessive amount that should concern you. To recap, the likely culprits to excessive shedding are infrequent shampooing, washing hair too much, dehydration, scalp disorders, bacteria and using heavy products. If you listen to your hair and scalp like you listen to your music, you will respond to the request to care for it properly and differently. I guarantee that if you do so, it will be like music to your ears. And we all know what that sounds and feels like!