The Heat is On

Yes heat is bad for your hair, if you burn it.

I remember when I was about eleven or twelve years old I use to read "Right On" magazine. Then one day while in the local pharmacy store with my mom, I decided to get "Teen" magazine instead. "Oh boy!" I thought to myself as I flipped through the pages, "Hmm, this is interesting." I compared how White teenagers had their teen star crushes to how Black teenagers had theirs. I noticed how their magazine had a lot more posters, fan club addresses. I also noticed how they provided profiles on the following page of the teen star after every poster. I also remembering discovering Leif Garret. Oooh he was cute! I actually liked that song, "I Was Made for Dancing." As I read his likes and dislikes, I came across a word, "pet peeve." While I do not remember what his pet peeves were, I do remember continuing to read to see if it was about some kind of animal. I picked up my "Right On" magazine and noticed that the Black teen stars in the magazine had no "pet peeves." But in the White "Teen" magazine,  the Black teen Stars had pet peeves. So I ran downstairs and asked my mom. "How come Black teen stars have pet peeves in White Teen magazine but none in Right On? Oh and what kind of pet is peeve?" My mom busted out laughing!

Fast forward to today and I have some peeves that still makes me wonder what kind of pet is that? As a cosmetologist there are not too many things that irks me about this industry. But the one that turned my human peeve into a pet peeve is hearing and reading about how heat is bad for your hair.

Steam, electrical, chemical and friction are forms
of HEAT.

I remain perplexed about heat being bad and damaging to hair. Heat can be used in the various forms of steam, electrical, friction and chemical to aid in the myriad of ways people manipulate hair. Heat used in those varying forms are actually good for hair by way of opening and smoothing the cuticle (the outer layer that looks like fish scales) to give us the ability to comb it, clean it, condition it, color it, relax it, treat it, loc it, make it more manageable and shine! Without heat in either of these forms, hair styling would be quite interesting to say the least.  If heat was truly damaging the hair care and hair styling world would cease to exist.

Heat gets a bad rap like liquor. Quite naturally everything is not for everybody.  Anything can be abused. And when in the hands of the wrong person or abused; damage of many kinds will be the result. All hair styles do not require heat in any form. And all people should not use heat as the cure all or the "go to" for every hair care and hair style option. However, it is there to use to do many creative and helpful things to hair. So whenever someone ask me to clarify if heat is bad for hair. I always respond, "Yep. If you burn it."

"Listen honey, listen!" Hair is an excellent conductor of heat. When used properly, all hair types and textures will respond to heat by softening, smoothing or curling accordingly. The key to using heat is to use it when the hair is clean. The second it to have it on the right heat setting. The third is to use the proper tool to soften, smooth, straighten or curl hair.

The "Huetiful Steamer" provides a safe
source of heat for stressed tresses!

Hair responds to heat safely when it is clean. Hair is relatively clean within the first 3 days of shampooing and conditioning it. Do not attempt to use heat in any form on any setting on hair that is not clean. If you do, you will damage or burn the hair along with what is soiled on it. The settings or temperature gauge is very important. Very high heat is not necessary for most textures, especially if you are going to steam treat your hair. In addition if you use a curling iron, flat iron or straightening comb to further style the hair after blow drying it or sitting under a hooded dryer; high temperatures are not necessary. Some heated styling tools have number settings or high, medium or low settings. I suggest buying heated tools that have temperature settings because you will get more use out of your styling tool. If your tool does not have a temperature gauge on it, please read the manufacturers on which temperature is best for your hair type and texture. 

Use heat responsible on CLEAN hair.

Lastly, use the proper tool to assist in getting your hair smoothed or straight. In getting your hair straight or straighter, there is a process to getting it there depending on how straight you would like it. If your hair texture (curly, kinky, wavy or Afro) a, you may need to blow dry your hair first on a high to medium heat setting followed by a flat iron, curling iron or straightening comb. If you are not sure about what kind of blow dryer, hooded dryer, flat iron, curling iron or straightening comb is best for your hair, schedule and appointment with a licensed cosmetologist to help you with you before you waste money buying the wrong or too expensive of a styling tool. Do not get on YOUTUBE watching those videos about "No Heat" styling, co-washing and all that jive. Keep in mind that most "how to" videos rarely depict what is on your head and what you need to do it to get the results you want. Please get a consultation in PERSON!

The argument of blow dryer versus hooded dryer need not be one. For they are designed to do different things with the hair. Neither are a cure all or is bad for the hair styles they were made to produce. The same can be said about the flat iron versus the straightening and curling iron. All three have versatility. In the hands of a trained and experienced person, 99.9% of the times when they use it to style hair, they do not burn it out nor are they damaging the hair to the point havoc.

Heat, Technique & The Right Tool
a.k.a
The Three Amigos!

Because no two heads of hair are alike, it is imperative that you personalize your hair care and hair styling regimen. Do not fall into cultural ruts of doing the same thing that society says do. For example, shampooing hair every two weeks or shampooing your hair daily. The heat is on, as it relates to how we should look and feel. Do not succumb to the pressure to NOT perform and take care of your hair yourself or even pay someone if you like. Do not allow haters of heat, lovers of smooth hair, advocates of texture and proponents of curls, spikes and flips tell you what to do YOUR hair. Within reason, when used on clean hair; heat is safe for hair. Do what you like and do what know is right. And if that person doesn't like it, tell them and to take their pet peeve and go walking with the other dawgs!

The Problem With Hair Care

Albert Einstein's formula for relativity was a result of his constant pondering of what makes things move. In my constant wondering why do so many women turn their hair care and hair style over to the hair stylist or salon, I too developed a formula. I took those thoughts and answers and used them to develop a formula to help. It is my belief that licensed hair stylists should do more than just shampoo and style hair. Therefore, I will join the elite number of licensed hair stylists who care and use my formula to help women nation and world wide learn how to care for and do their own hair. It is my mission to teach the masses how to care for and style their hair themselves continues.

"When one is in chains we are all bound."

There are three simple steps to my mission. The first step is to expose the methods that contribute to the madness hair stylist and salon slavery. The second step is to reveal the formula and the third step is to spread the word.

The method to the madness in hair styling starts with the trouble of no hair care. Make no mistake, it is the overt removal of and disdain for hair care that is often times promoted UNKNOWINGLY by licensed cosmetologists or is passed from generation to generation through family members and/ who both more than likely misinformed. For licensed cosmetologists, the scenario of not being properly educated, trained and tested in hair care further perpetuates this madness. Because hair styling is the primary focus and income earner for most licensed cosmetologists and salon owners, hair care and how to use the salon visit to teach rarely gets addressed. 

The power of marketing!

There is an unspoken contract between customers, licensed cosmetologists and hair care product manufacturers that is dropped off on an impromptu's notice in the salon and in certain CEU (continuing education units) classes by unscrupulous, untrained and unlicensed sales reps that add momentum to the madness that is surely spiraling out of control. The unspoken contract often starts with the solicitation to sell hair care products and education to the stylists as she styles the hair while the customer sits in the chair. The unspoken contract is also where segregation, race, hair textures and hair types are clumped together for the soul purpose of duping salon customers (old, new and potential) and consumers of hair styling products alike that what and who they see as well as hear in the advertisements are true. This statement is easily proven as fact when during this day and time there remains an "ethnic" hair care aisle in the varying stores that sell hair styling products. There remains "ethnic" in the marketing and commercialism in hair styling products. In addition, very few licensed cosmetologists, cosmetology students, cosmetology educators and hair care product manufacturers are bold enough to hold accountable the blatant removal and exclusion of textured hair mannequins in the schooling, education, training and stated tested licensing process. Sheer madness I say; sheer madness.

The unspoken contractual method all hurt and enable the consumer and the licensed cosmetologists. Yet the manufacturers of the multi-billion dollar hair styling/beauty industry become richer by the bulks, threads, needles, bottles, jars, tubes, cords and more. So, it is the method to the madness that hurts hair care.

Einstein's Theory

Now, on to the second step of my mission, sharing my formula. The formula to caring for your hair is simple and easy to use. Einstein's formula of relativity is E = mc2. Ladosha's formula to hair care is mhc2 = E. In Einstein’s relativity formula E=mc2, energy is pertinent; energy is the equivalent of what makes the mass and the speed of light (c) times acutally MOVE!  

In the formula for hair care (mhc2 = E) it is the ability to manage your hair care (at least 2 times per day) that actually takes energy (and time)! In addition, proper knowledge and instructions on which products to use for your specific hair texture and hair type is key to my manage hair care (mhc2 =E) formula.

I have always been concerned with women turning their hair care and hair style over to a hair stylist who don't even wake up with them in the morning, or after a work out and the likes to help when hair styling matters most. So waiting to return to the salon is not always the best option for many. Please keep in mind that the "waiting to return to the salon for two weeks" is another method to the madness. Dirty hair is where the money is. They even create hair styles as well as formulate hair care products and marketing campaigns specifically for consumers who do not shampoo their hair frequently. Hence, "ethnic."

Ladosha's formula on hair care.

Now this is where "the problem with hair care gets sticky." My experience has been, that for the most part it appears to be that there is a high number of women with textured (curly, kinky, wavy and Afro) who have a belief system as well as an earnest sentiment where they correlate the price and time spent in a salon on hair style with hair care. That truly concerns. It motivated my developing this formula. Removing, ignoring, not addressing and not making the time to teach the customer what to do with their hair in between salon visits is directly related to unwanted hair damage and hair loss. It promotes their false belief and sentiment. While it is difficult for a large number of women to fathom that they are being deliberately or unknowingly removed from the equation of hair care; it is true. To address this task (TIME/ENERGY) due to their daily activities (careers, family, children, church and other commitments) many women spend very little time. In addition, very little or none of their energy is spent on hair care. Therefore, I must reiterate the importance of YOU making the time and energy to learn your hair yourself. It is vital to longevity of having it on YOUR head. 

Make it your business to turn every salon visit as a "teachable moment" versus immersing yourself into your electronic device, gossiping, complaining, eating and the likes. Instead, utilize every visit to to include YOU into the formula of learning how to care for and do your own hair. Do not fret if you are a novice to doing your own hair. Any professional licensed cosmetologist would be glad to help you. If not, come see us at The Reverence Design Team Hair Salon in Cleveland Heights, Ohio!

Licensed hair stylist should be teaching every customer
how to care for and style their hair in between
salon visits.

2015 represents a new year. For many the new year brings about a new attitude. Check yours and your hair stylist's attitude toward hair care. See if you two are working on the same equation when it comes to your hair. And in that equation, E=mhc2 we know that you are the vital part of that (E)energy. Managing Hair Care (MHC) 2 times per day is what it will honestly take to keep your hair on your head. It will also give you the ability to style and re-style your hair.

In closing, do not allow anyone or anything to remove you from that equation.

The Most Wonderful Time of the Year

It's the most wonderful time of the year
Where this hair care blogger will be of good cheer 
As I critique the best and worst hair styles of the year!

In 2014 we saw some interesting hairstyles come across our varying screens. With the ability to see what is going on in the entertainment industry, or the ability to see the person sitting directly across from you without them even knowing it is pretty interesting. In addition, photos can be posted to social networks like Facebook, Twitter, Snap Chat, The Vine and now the ever trending can't do without it, scrolling through your phone as you ignore people, Instagram. They all have the ability to give us an immediate glimpse into the world of the masses caught on camera by others, photographers, paparazzi and selfie masters world wide.

As we all know there are pros and cons to this sweeping phenomena called "sending" and posting to social networking. The pros of course are exposure to what is caught on camera by way of sending, following, getting followed, getting liked and now hashtagged. While filtering does wonders of hiding, blending and accentuating what we like and dislike about a photo; it does not save you from the world of those who like to compliment and critique. Rather the complimenting and critiquing is done by the every day, all day; anytime "sms/mms sending," or the 24 hour non stop inundated talk show hosts gossiping, funny and loquacious radio disk jockeys joke telling or screen shooting to repost... SMH, it is all exposure none the least. 

So as 2014 has come to an end, it truly is the most wonderful time of the year where I get to add my two cents about the popular and not so popular hairstyles of 2014. Drum roll please:

She did that; that thang!

The Sock Bun. For a minute there, I was getting kind of excited that women from all over were paying us hair stylists top dollars to create this vintage look that is very easy to do as well as maintain until, the "As Seen on TV" infomercial introduced the masses to a simple way to re-create the look at home. I know; but I ain't gone hate. It truly is simple to do when you have enough hair...lol

Way too much weave

Next up, Weaves, the R&B Divas LA. I could not resist. Honestly, I have never seen it. Well, from the looks of this Google image with their hair weaves jumping out atcha, this photo is worth a thousand words and I will just pick the shortest word that comes to my mind...FAKE! I admit, I have no concept of how to create a hair weave by any stretch of the imagination. Yet, I am truly of a fan of the option to transform oneself just because you can. However, reality shows that are full of fake everything gets my "hair styling" goat. I am of the understanding of the skills it takes to wear a weave let alone make a weave; but when every Reality TV show casts women wearing fake hair during almost every show and photo op; the fake hair actually takes away from the reality of  real hair styling...LMAO 

The incomparable Jill!

Next, Funky Spiky Hair. The incomparable songstress extraordinaire, the lady Jill Scott tore it up in 2014. While I was not a fan of her blonde weave on the cover of Essence this year, I loved the versatility of a woman who can do what ever she likes. Especially when she does it well. I was attempting to think of all kinds of fascinating things to say about Jill Scott, but her hair speaks for itself...YOLO

Ok, Natural Hairstyles. This one was an easy... but the SMH of the millennium goes to the entire United States Armed Forces. That is right the United States Armed Forces took a stance earlier this year to say that "braids wider than 1/4 inch and artificially enhanced braid and twist styles violate the code." Code, schmode. They get a big fat WTF! This is the most wonderful time of the year to honor the women who leave their families behind to go out into the world to make it safe for us to do everything from blog to buying the fake hair and everything in between. And the best the gov'ment can come up with is a "code" to violate hair styling. "Tisk, come on, don't gimme dat!" In my Biz Markie voice. United States Armed Forces, yall got me twisted on this one! I would love to sign that petition to have that changed. While the Armed Forces give these braid styles a violation without a salute, I give them two thumbs up and a salute! ...IJS

I hope they change this one day soon.

Weaves that look bad in photos in any year. This one is so difficult for me. Because 2014 really went HAM on posting and selfies, I have to blog about it. I love to be in photos and I take my share of selfies. But, the truth of the matter is that if it looks bad in a photo; you know it looks worse in real life. So, it is also that time of the year to inform Ne Ne Leaks that her weaves do not look nice in photos. There are many hairstylists who can create her a more polished natural looking and PHOTOGENIC weave. Why do the people who work around her do not tell her that her hair looks like the "Little People" toys in her photos? Can you say, "The Emperors New Clothes?" If there was one celebrity I would love to hear the truth about how wiggy and plastered on her weave look, it is her. NeNe is a beautiful woman. Her skin is flawless. Her smile and attire are always pristine. I don't care if she has had a little lift and tuck; she is beautiful as she is statuesque. However her hair is too fake for a woman that is so very real...TTYL

This is what happens when you surround yourself with...

Ahh, on to Long Layers. All by her wittle lonesome in 2014, the first lady Michelle Obama is set the tone for versatility in a world of diversity. Michelle Obama wears the kind of hair almost any woman, with any image of any race on varying income levels can relate to. Her hairstylist is excellent at reflecting and capturing what makes her tick...her personality. I love the new color. I love the hair cut. I love the way she keeps herself looking nice and adjusts her image to what the work day or life calls for...HAK (hugs and kisses)

I love it!

Next, the Pony Tail! Rhianna shut it down in 2014 hair style wise. As iconic is her taste in fashion and attitude, so is her flair for hair. The pony tail, by far, is the most under rated and most hated hair style. As a hair stylist, I do not know why. A pony tail does wonders when time is of the essence, money is low, products are no where to be found, water is not near by and when a comb is just too much to bear. I love the pony tail. In 2014 there were so many takes on the pony tail. I loved them all. For Rhianna to wear one during a very personal and formal occasion, further proves my case.  In the infamous words of my favorite world renowned make up artist Renny Vasquez, "You betta ...CYE (check yo email)!"

Last but not least, Not Knowing How to Do Your Own Hair hair style. It is the year 2014, believe it or not there remains a large number of hair stylists who continue to service women and not make sure they know how to re-create that "paid for" hair style in between salon visits. It remains the number one thing in the beauty industry that I do not like the most. Image for many is very important. It is not uncommon that I come across women and men who do not have the courage to stand up for how they want to look; let alone how to do it. This can be an issue for those who have not developed a sense of individuality or a skill of how to do their own hair. Yet as hair stylists it is imperative that like a doctor who never gives up on a patient, we should never give up on teaching someone the basics of preserving or creating a hair style. With that being wrote, absolutely nooooooo woman comes to mind as I write this last example of hair styling at home gone wrong than Pam Oliver. I would be some kind of not wonderful if I was to give a bad review on her hair style.

Supposedly, she mostly does it herself. And unfortunately doing so cost her her job. This one is difficult too because it more than demonstrates the most un-talked about topic in hair care and hair styling; not knowing how to do your own hair.....SOS

Make the time to take the time to learn your hair.

SOS, help, assistance, guidance and the likes is what Ms. Oliver needed. While I am not sure if she has hair underneath her wigs and weaves, I am certain that she somehow lost herself along the way. Many women see hair as an accessory. Hair is not and accessory. Your hair is an intricate part of you as your personality. Like her, I have been put under the pressure to look nice on a moments notice with limited hair styling options. Though I have never worn a weave, styled one or even applied one; I am sure that with proper guidance and strong foundation of who she is; this unwanted hair style of shame could have been avoided.

So with that being said, I am a fan of inspiration. There is nothing wrong with throwing a wig on in a pinch and incorporating it into a style that you call your own. I am a even bigger fan of being uniquely you. In 2015, make the time to take the time to learn your hair. When it comes to hair be it your hair or hair additions, I highly recommend taking the time out to investigate, consult with and invest in a stylist who can help you help yourself as you grow and change with your image. Do not puppet your image. Do not surround yourself with people who tell you what you want to hear. 

There will be much hair styles a showing
And hair will be growing
When hair stylists are or not near
It's the most wonderful time of the year!

Happy new year...