Awe, Grow Up!

As you grow and change, so should your hair care regimen.

My job as a cosmetologist is not limited to "doing" hair. As a matter of fact, I have a mantra that I say to those who are in the business of shotty hair care, "If you wanna "DO" hair, then get a mannequin!" 

It is in my professional opinion that when a person sits in the styling chair, they are not merely looking for a hair "do." In my opinion, they are looking for trust, honesty, creativity and flexibility which results in a great hair "do". I understand that in the end, nice looking hair is what they want. But let us address what it really takes for hair to look nice. 

First things first, in order to have hair that looks nice, the hair itself must be what? Nice! Nice hair starts at HOME. I will re-type this. Nice hair starts at home. You know, like your health! Before I ask a new customer how would they like for me to style their hair, I always ask, what is their level of commitment to their hair style when they go home. "What did you just say?" Is ALWAYS the response. Then, almost everyone always start their response off with:

• "Back in the day my hair was..."
• "When I was younger my hair use to be..."
• "I had good hair until ..."
• "My hair use to be really long until..."
• "My old hair stylist would make my hair do..."

To me when a person pays any amount of money for a hair style they are making an investment in themselves. You know like a IRA. Therefore, I always take the time to listen and allow them to tell their "use to be" hair story. Why? Honestly, there are many women who are emotionally and financially traumatized by salon experiences. Their image has been compromised by a bad hair style; be it hair color, hair weave or the actual hair style itself. In addition, there are a large number of women who are left feeling bitter about the price of the hair style as well. Therefore, it is imperative that I listen. It is my goal to teach them what it realistically takes to achieve NICE hair. In order for me to teach them effectively, I have to hear and see (yes, I actually have them show me what they do to their hair at home) what they are doing to their hair so that I may correct anything that they are doing that is counter productive to them having nice hair.

The World's Bestest Protein ever!

So, I understand the "when I was younger" premise, but what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that as you age you change. Your hair care regimen should change as you age. The regimen should not only change at the salon, but it should also change at home. Also, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that "aging" hair is not limited to your chronological age, but environmental stressors such as sun rays, curling irons, braiding twisting, flipping, foods, medicines and so on ages hair as well. If you were in the habit of shampooing your hair bi-weekly when you were in your twenties and thirties; you should NOT be doing the same in your forties and fifties. The life expectancy of one strand of hair is 7 years. Each and every hair on your body grows out of its own hole called a follicle. All hair follicles do not grow at the same time like dog hairs do. That explains why some strands of hair are shorter than others. In addition to the hairs on your head (and body) growing at different rates, they also get thinner as we get older. Because your hair gets thinner as you age, the need for chemical services, more heat, heavier conditioners, heavier oils or pomades are not needed. Often times, I religiously apply Philip Pelusi's Daily Hair Rx Extreme Liquid Repair protein treatment to the hair and apply the appropriate conditioner to the ends of the hair on most of my guest 35 years of age and older. 

One does not need to be a hair stylist or dermatologist to notice the change in one's hair as they age. While thinning and balding typically comes to mind; the integrity of the hair has changed as well. The use of heavy products, flimsy combs, too hot of a styling utensil, excessive pulling and infrequent shampooing are the culprits to unwanted hair loss. It also speed up the process of thinning and balding.  

old school  - Goody Combs

In addition to using more quality protein (I swear by Philip Pelusi's Daily Hair Rx Liquid Protein Spray. It is the best), I also change the temperature on the heated styling tools I use, considering their hair is getting thinner. I also change the combs I use. I make sure I only use quality combs and brushes. For a comb/brush is to your hair what a toothbrush is to your teeth or a broom to the floor. And well all know the poor value of a bad tooth brush and broom; both won't clean a thing. 

New School - Krest Combs

In conclusion, I am not suggesting to totally disregard the tried and true methods of hair care when you were younger; but when it comes to truly achieving nice hair that you could be proud to wear, keep in mind the above mentioned points. Keep your hair clean (even if you just wash and wear or put it in a pony tail). Shampoo at least 1-2 times per week. Do not be so quick to try what is NEW on the market. And the next time you hear someone talk about their hair care from what they use to do in the past, have them visit my blog and say to them, "Awe, grow up!"

Don't Blame it on the Alcohol

Don't blame it on the alcohol!

One of the things I love as a cosmetologist are my "Bootleg" cosmetologists. "Bootleg" cosmetologists are the people who know everything about the nothings, the wrongs, the myths and the incorrects of hair care. Bootleg cosmetologist can tell you about hair color, relaxers, weave and growing hair. They can even tell you about hair care ingredients. They are experts at warning about the dangers of alcohol in hair care products. This is one of my favorite "shut 'em" topics. I recall a time, I sold a guest a moisturizing mousse for her curly tresses. Her bootleg cosmetologist daughter had her return it because it had alcohol in it. When I used my ingredient book to show the guest what alcohol meant in scientific terms and what the source of that particular alcohol was; she was shocked!

Caring for hair; be it textured, straight, chemically altered, locked, weaved and everything in between can be something of an enigma for many (rather you have your bootleg cosmetology license or not). If it is not the styling tool, then it is the hair itself. The enigma in hair care for many lies not only in what to put on it but what is IN what we put on our hair. So the point of the bootleg cosmetologist who warns that alcohol is bad for your hair, there are varying kinds of alcohol based on their molecular weight and the source of the alcohol that determines if it is bad or good.

Regardless the texture, hands down, the top two ingredients people hate in hair care products are oils and alcohols. Now hold on before you start rubber necking and nodding your head in agreement, I can explain again. Some consumers are more lenient and is more willing to try a product if it has some oil in it. But, now if it has alcohol in it, that is the determining factor to ditch the product.

Before you place the product back on the shelf, do a little Google search on your phone and look up the alcohol you are concerned about. In case you did not know alcohols come in two categories. The categories are of course in molecular weight and source. And the molecular weight is based on the way the company extracts the alcohol (ingredient) from it's source. The two categories are short chain alcohols and fatty alcohols.

Short Chain Alcohol

The first are the short chain alcohols have more of the water molecules left on them and they are used to kind of like soak up or/and break down the waxy film from other ingredients in the care products. That explains why alcohols such as SD Alcohol, SD Alcohol 40 and Denatured Alcohols makes the hair feel very dry.

The second category of fatty alcohols are pretty much derived from coconuts or feedstock (corn, palm seed and the likes). These carbons and molecules are larger thereby making the hair care product thicker or creamier; which translates to easier to apply and get through your hair. It could also mean a few extra bucks. If ingredients like Cetyl, Stearyl or Cetaryl to name a few reads familiar, do not panic; these are the good alcohols. These fatty alcohol are what gives your favorite moisturizing conditioner or styling agent slip, they smooth the cuticle (the outer layer of hair); thus making hair shine. Other fatty alcohols such as lauryl, myristyl or behenyl actually hydrate hair! 

Fatty Alcohols

 

So as you can see when it comes to alcohol there are some bad ones and some good ones. Do your own research. Do not allow people who know nothing of what they are talking about tell you different. Always follow the manufacturers instructions. Purchase your products from stores who will take returns (not exchanges). Try your product out by rubbing all over your hands like lotion versus sniffing and smelling. If you do not like the way a product feels on your hands, then you will not like the way it feels on your hair (unless you want it a lil tacky in the case of certain gels and mousses). If you do not like it, then do not buy it. If you try it and do not like it, then return it. But whatever you do; don't blame it on the a-a-a-a-alcohol!

Going Way Back!

Going way back to the early days of 75...

I have been blessed to live long enough to hear my share of "back in the day," "old school," "throwback," and "going way back." As much as I love hip hop, us hip hop heads know that know one speaks of "back in the day" no more than a rapper. "Skiiiiiiiirch," that is unless you are a hair stylist. OMG, I can not tell you how many people (rather I am doing a hair and scalp analysis or not) tell me how many stories of how their hair was, "way back when." 

Whenever I am doing a consultation or meet someone and disclose that I am a hair stylist, I always here the intro of "Goin Way Back" by one of my favorite old school hip hop artist, Just Ice! "Let me tell you about 75..." So many women take me back to 1975, 1965, 85, 95 and 2005 about the glory days of when they had beautiful hair. I have heard countless, "My hair was beautiful until my mom put the relaxer in it," stories. "My hair was beautiful until my grandma pressed my hair so hard it fell out," stories. "My hair was beautiful before my cousin bleached or colored it," stories.  Well my darling "going way back to the time I had beautiful hair" blog readers, I have some good news and I have some bad news. Before I reveal the two, I have to include my exception to the rule sentence. My exception to the rule sentence is, in the extreme cases of medical illness, genetic disorders and severe scalp damage (i.e. burns, accidents, trauma to the scalp and the likes) the hair may never grow or return to its beautiful luster prior to. So provided that you have none of the aforementioned extreme cases, you can move forward to today and tomorrow in your goal to have beautiful hair NOW! Back to the good news, bad good news information.

Let's start with the bad news. The bad news is, it is close to impossible to restore your hair back to the hair you had in 1965, 75, 85, 95 or 2005 (you get where I am going with this) when you were younger. Regardless if you believe the relaxer, hair color, bad braid job, scarf or anything in between was the culprit. 

Now the good news is, believe it or not, every 7 years you get an entire new head of hair. So what ever and who ever happened to your hair way back when does not matter because every 7 years, you will have an entirely new head of hair. How bout dem apples! Now in that process of getting a new head of hair every 7 years, you do not get the same hair you had when you were younger because as we age and the new hair grows in every 7 years, for many that new hair gets thinner, and thinner and thinner. But, it is new, nontheless. 

Wait just a cotton pickin' minute before you click onto a new link in search of. Let me explain. I understand your skepticism. I will explain how this is so. According to one of my favorite and one of the most respected leaders in trichology, Trichologist Philip Kingsley from London who develops his exclusive hair care line and hair care practice from the 3 phases of hair growth science. Now about this "going way back." his website reports that it is the growth cycle of the hair is that is directly responsible for giving us a new head of hair every seven years. The name of this natural phenomenon is, "The Hair Growth Cycle." The hair growth cycle has 3 phases. The 3 phases has a acronym that I personally call it, "The ACT." The ACT goes as follows:

ACT Stages of hair growth.

The first scene or phase is the ANAGEN. The anagen phase is also known as the growing phase. About 80 to 90 percent of your hair strands are in this phase of growing. Please keep in mind that human follicles (the little hole that your hair strand is growing out of) are not like animals. So all of your hair strands DO NOT grow at the same time. That explains why some strands are longer and shorter than the others. Also the during this phase the hair will grow about 1/4th an inch per month rather you take hair growing vitamins, shampoo it with fancy products, massage it or not (lol).

The second scene or phase is the CATAGEN. The catagen phase is also known as the transitional phase. This phase lasts about 2-4 weeks. So, about 2-3% of your hair strands are in transit to taking a lil break from growing, making the natural color in your hair and is beginning to rest to make way for new hair to grow in.

The third and final scene or phase is the TELOGEN. The telogen phase is the resting phase. This phase lasts about 2-4 weeks and about 3-4% of your hair strands are in this phase. During this phase the hair is still not producing any of it's natural color and it is being pushed away from the scalp (you call it shedding) so that new hair strands can grow in. Now you see why hair stylists always say you will see some hair shed.  I always tell my clients how hair shedding is natural and normal. When you see that little tiny white bulb attached to the strand of hair, do not panic, bingo; new hair is coming in!

So there you have it. No more, going way back to the early days of 75 (in my Just Ice voice)! It is most certainly all good. There could be a point in this scenario where too much hair could be coming out. If you seriously think that the hair your are seeing come out is too much, then schedule consultation with me, Philip Kingsley or a trained and concerned cosmetologist to learn more about what options you may have.

Philip Kingsley, world renowned Trichlogist

I'd like to send shout out to my trichologist homie Philip Kingsley, peace (in my Just Ice voice)!

Here is the link to his website: 

http://www.philipkingsley.com/hair-guide/hair-science/hair-growth-cycle/

 Enjoy and tell him, Ladosha sent ya.

That's Played Out! Part 2

Old School (larger molecules) and about 15
minutes under the dryer.

In my last week's blog, "That's Played Out" Part 1, I wrote about the antiquated process of sitting under a hooded dryer for deep conditioning services. To recap, my Blog Ndogo highlighted how sitting under a hooded dryer is a "played out" process due to the fact that older and cheaper products lack the technology that newer products have. In addition, I pointed out that older products contain by heavier ingredients that require heat to swell and soften the hair so the ingredients in the products can penetrate the hair and work. I also wrote, the draw back to that old way of doing things MAY result in coated, over processed hair, longer waiting time under a hot hooded dryer and more money.

In Part 2 of That's Played Out, I am highlighting the benefits of the latest technology in hair care by way of nano-technology. Nano technology is common when the term is paired in science or technology in the areas of computers and smart phones. Well believe it or not, nano technology is used in hair care as well. It has actually been in hair care for quite some time improving hair care in ways we could only dream of.

New school. USP ingredients,
nano technology and 3 minutes NO HEAT

For some reason in hair care everything old is new again. I am still at a lost at how people are falling for the hype of "natural" hair. Natural hair care is about as new as the comb and brush. So like in hair care, what's old is new, the same can be said in science. The truth is, nano technology has been around for quite some time as well. The challenge with this new old science called Nano technology is this new old word called organic. Nano technology gets a bad rap in hair care due to all this new old craze called natural hair. I do not know how these terms have gotten thrown out of text and reinvented, but it is my goal to briefly explain how they all compliment each other. I understand that having natural  hair, going natural, going through a natural hair care journey makes one feel at ease. While relaxers, perms, artificial hair color and anything synthetic or man made can make one feel uneasy. Rest assured that Nano technology has it's place in both the organic, natural and synthetic (man made) world . Nano technology or synthetic doe not necessarily translate into toxic avenger. 

Please be aware that certain people, professionals and hair care companies are using the "fear" of man made or anything synthesized is bad. Granted "man made" anything has its disadvantages, however, there are some men (and women) out here making some pretty good stuff.

A new twist on "Old School" still needs heat and
about 15-20 minutes.

Starting with my main man, Philip Pelusi. Philip Pelusi is a licensed cosmetologist in the city of Pittsburgh. He also formulates, manufacture and sell his own salon quality hair care products. To me hair care products are like cars. A Ford and and Aston Martin are both automobiles that will get you downtown. But, now how you want to arrive? Well that is another blog. When it comes to hair care, in my opinion, Philip Pelusi products are the Aston Martins of hair care products! He has two product lines P2 by Philip Pelusi and Tela Organics. His products have two fascinating details in hair care that will convert the biggest skeptic in the quality of hair care faster than moisture can convert straight hair frizzy! To simply put it, his products and others like his, have two important aspects where man made and organic meshed together can repair hair and honestly do what the bottle reads. Those two things are USP (United State Pharmacopia) and nano technology. USP simply guarantees that the quality of that ingredient is real and it does what it says. While other companies MARKET, PROMOTE or claim their hair care products can do something, USP assures consumers the ingredients work rather a hair care company markets it or not. The nano technology comes in properly breaking down the organic, natural or man made ingredient in the smallest safest way possible to improve the integrity of hair. All this is done to meet the demands of the time crunched and money conscious consumer. Bam!

Mr. Philip Pelusi, when it comes to hair,
"Everyone has their own unique fabric."

For the record, some organic ingredients have to be synthesized (broken down) so that the hair can readily absorb the varying essence of the source so that hair can actually benefit from it, make it more affordable or simply make it easier to use. It is also to my understanding that the fancy ingredient names can be intimidating to many. Rest assure, the fancy long words are just that. Scientific mumble jumble for the scientist, but to average consumer Tocopherol reads and sounds very toxic. Right? But in regular hair care product junkie language, we simply call it Vitamin E. The average hair care junky thinks Cetearyl Alcohol is like the drying, pungent and strong alcohol that stings very badly when it gets on a cut. Nope, it is actually the fats (that's right...oil) that are hydrogenated (or processed) from vegetable oil that keeps the oil in your hair care products from separating...lol! Ok, one more, Polyquaternium. Ooh, that sounds really toxic. Like it can seep into your skull and cause brain damage. Nope, polyquaternium will not seep into your skull. They are simply a combination of vary sizes of large molecules (hence the prefix poly) that help make your cuticles lie flat. In other words, this ingredient is what gets the tangles out of naps, kinks, knots, hooks, cookcabuds, kitchen and whatever other wretched word we can come up with to describe our tangled tresses! How am I doing, my fellow hair care product junkies?

Alterna's The Science of 10 Conditioner. A new twist on
nano technology that can be used with or with out heat, costs
a tad bit more. But works excellently.

When it comes to hair care, everything is not for everybody. Take advantage of the technology and use the hair care product for the RESULTS you want to see on YOUR unique hair fiber. Again, just because it's old school does not mean it is bad; it just means that it's old... you know; it's played out! A straightening comb is played out, but if you want to get that hair line smooth, I bet you will put that flat iron down and go for what you know!

Keep things simple when it comes to your hair. Stay within your budget, your time frame in which you want to spend on your hair and your ability to create or re-create the look!

How's that for being played out?