Treatments for Hair

Damage ain't a thang!

Beautiful healthy hair is like the finer things in life. Money, Double RR's, Chanel, diamonds and like Jigga; I don't like hair if it don't gleam gleam. Cuz to hell with these myths; damage ain't a thang! Working in the hair salon has it's funny moments. Working in the salon has it's quirky moments. But no moment is more interesting in the salon than the topic of what damages hair, how to fix it and the costs to repair it. While this blog could go on for pages about the many things that contributes to damaged hair, I will highlight 5 myths about what "they" say about what damages hair, then counter attack what "they" say and end it up with what really is the "thang" when it comes to healthy hair. 

As always; drum roll please! I am going to start my "What They Say" list off with the least popular to the most popular:

What THEY say List:

5. Sleeping on one side of your head.

4. The wool scarf.

3.  My medicine.

2.  Back when I was around...

1.  The relaxer.

What I Say Counter Attack List:
Five: Unless you are sleeping on that side of your head for hours to days on in for years at a time. It is almost impossible to connect 4-10 hours of sleeping on one side of your head to hair loss and damage. The culprit could simply be, favoring one side of your hair more when styling.

Four: Unless you are deliberately rubbing your hair out with the scarf; again it is almost impossible to connect wearing a wool (textured) scarf for 10-45 minutes to hair breakage and hair loss. Unless the scarf is tied tight, the hair is very dry before the scarf makes contact with the hair; then the FRICTION alone may cause some snapping. But then that is just a matter of reducing the friction!

Three: Unless your doctor tells you your medicine will cause hair loss; then the medicine is not the culprit. In most cases when a person abruptly or is inconsistent with their medicines; hair

loss and shedding is the result. If you seriously feel your medicine is causing hair damage or/and loss; please speak to your doctor. Do not just stop taking your medicines.

Two: Unless it happened within the last 7 years; it does not matter what happened when you were 8,16,24,32,39,42,49,56 years old and so on. Why? Because the life expectancy each individual strand of hair on your body is about 7 years. After, an entire new strand is growing in. So enough with that story already....lol (sorry).

One: Unless the relaxer was not applied according the manufacturers instructions and provided that you are not allergic to the relaxer; your hair should stay on your head. The instructions of how and when to apply a chemical relaxer varies from maker to maker. There should never be a "cookie cutter" approach to any chemical service in the hair salon. Never. The relaxer was never intended to straighten hair; heat was. The relaxer has always been about

"relaxing" texture. Nothing more. Nothing less. Provided you are not allergic to them; they are safe. Irritation and hair damage almost always come from NOT following the manufacturer's directions...ijs 

True culprits to damaging hair:

Five: Using water based products or when water is within the first three ingredients are sure to attract moisture too hair. When hair is too moist, it become limp, more frizz, the texture is compromised. Smoothing or straightening is difficult. Too soft and too wet hair is very damaging to texture and integrity of hair.

Four: Creams, gels and sulfate free products which mostly attracts moisture to hair will cause hair it to become too soft. When hair is too soft your curls, waves, kinks and Afros will go limp.

Three: Dry scalps. Dry scalps pull moisture from the individual strand thus making one constantly re-applying oil, creams, butters and salves to hair daily. Scalp must be glazed lightly.

Two: Infrequent shampooing. Nothing damages hair more than dirty hair. The yeast, oil, sweat, dirt and product build up alone is enough to make hair smell something fierce and become even more limp and difficult to style.

One: Not combing hair that is smoothed out. If you are wearing a style that is smoothed, rolled, straightened out; it is imperative to comb your hair throughout the day to redistribute oils to the ends of your hair to keep them form splitting and breaking. 

Eat the egg is better than cracking it over
your hair.

On a side note, Nutritionist Dr. Janice R. Hermann of Oklahoma State University writes in her "Protein and the Body" report that "Next to water, protein is the most plentiful substance in our bodies. Just about everybody knows that our muscles are made of proteins. And, actually every single cell in our bodies has some protein." Right? Right. So why then are proteins thee most under applied and misused service in the hair salon? I don't know. I can not tell you how many women sit in my chair cry, fuss, cuss, walk out, dog me out or just plain on ask that I not put protein in their hair. Why that's like asking for water with only 1 atom of oxygen. Ham with no burger. Kool-Aid with no sugar or Cereal with no milk. Vital, I tell ya. Protein is vital to hair care. Anyone paying for any type of hair service and is not getting a protein treatment is literally pouring their service down the drain. While there are many sources that one can get their protein from, I am a fan of keratin, phyto, fruit, wheat and soy proteins. 

What do you think the 23
represents? No, not Jordan's!

Of course I could write an entire article on man made versus synthetic proteins, but I will not. But what I will say is that synthetic or man made proteins can be useful and effective in providing an excellent source of protein to hair inasmuch as the nano (very tiny) technology that goes into the science of man made products, the affordability and the accessibility works miracles and wonders for almost any head of hair. For those who are proximity challenged (you know; those who live in the nooks and crannies of the world), man made proteins will almost always come in handy. If nothing but, they are easier to locate. For those who are financially challenged; man made will aid and make buying protein for your hair a lot more affordable. According to my peeps over at Santa Cruz Biotechnology, "the molecular weight of egg is about 758.06. To penetrate hair, the molecular weight must be 2500mw." So put down that egg and mayonnaise because their molecules are too large.  You will be better off eating them than cracking and smearing them over your hair. If you are on a budget or is living in the nooks and crannies of the world; nothing works like some good ol man made Original Infusium 23 Formula (umm, the number 23 bout says it all...heller)! If you can "holla back, cuz money ain't a thang..." then the Daily HairRx Protein Spray by P2 by Philip Pelusi is thee Aston Martin of protein treatments for hair!

While the sun, diet, medicines, hair coloring, braiding, twisting, locking, curling, flat ironing, heat, hair additions and all that jive, too, compromises hair; you can do a little damage control simply by keeping it it clean, using products according to your hair's texture and condition. In addition, incorporate protein treatments into your hair care because humans are lean mean protein making machines! As for those myths, be practical not fanatical when it comes to hair care. Be leery of "group think" and mass appeal to the individual fibers of hair that are on your individual head of hair. Get your hair and scalp analyzed under a microscope versus a touch, feel and style approach to what might be troubling you about your hair. To keep damage under control is to make hair care priority one. Not spending ridiculous amounts of money and spending extended periods of time in a hair salon getting a hair style and treatments that amount to a whole bunch of nothing. 

Hair care is smart care.  

"Come on, y'all wanna floss wit us! Cuz all across the salon we burn it up. Drop a little paper, baby toss it up...See the damage ain't a thang!"

I Hate Hair Cuts

There I stand behind the chair as my customer is sitting in the styling chair. We exchange pleasantries. Though she was smiling and sharing good news, I could tell something was troubling her. So I asked was everything okay. She responded, "I want to tell you something, but I'm afraid you'll get mad at me." I replied, "Unless you're gonna tell me my dad is not my dad, I promise I will not get mad."  LOL She laughed and said, "Well okay. I hate getting my hair cut. I never want to cut my hair again. Every time my hair grows, you cut off the length. So I was thinking that if I never get it cut, it will keep growing and I don't care how bad the ends look."

I responded, "Well you do not have too. It is your hair. And if you never want to cut it, then I won't cut it." I went on to explain how her hair was growing and that the amount that I was taking off were simply frayed ends. I told her how frayed ends compromise the performance and appearance of hair but that in no way would not cutting her hair be to her detriment. She jumped out the chair and gave me a hug! Quite naturally, never in a million years did I think she was going to say that not wanting me to cut her hair would give her that much fear. But hey, better out than in.

Also, quite naturally that inspired this week's blog ndogo. Hair cuts, hmmm. Hair cuts are probably the most hated service in the hair salon. Though I am no trichologist, I do specialize in the study of hair and scalp conditions. So what I do is use the training I received in Trichology to help empower each and every person who enters the salon to take charge of their hair. Taking charge means different things to different people. But somewhere between what the individual wants and me providing hair care services that does not compromise the scalp and hair; together we can find a happy medium. Me being a licensed professional has nothing to do with the choice a person makes regarding their own hair. However, being a cosmetologists is more like me being an  I do not wake up with her in the morning. I'm more like a servant of sorts. Like a butler. We are paid to do a service, if we do not cut hair or attend to their personal needs, no one is really at a lost. Realistically, my job falls under the category of discretionary. Therefore, why would I tell her she has to get her hair cut if she does not want to? The fact that I am licensed cosmetologist would not suffice. For it is simple; because she does not have to cut hair in order for me to be of service. 

For the record, hair cuts are mostly about hair styles. This customer was clear that she was not interested in any kind of a hair style of any facet. I also took the time to explain to her what happens to hair when it is not cut and what happens to hair when it is cut. Now, I will explain it to you. 

First things first.  Hair grows in 3 phases. The three phases are anagen, catagen and telogen. Anagaen which is the first phase is when hair is actively growing at the rate of about 1/4th inch per month. To achieve that 1/4th inch; hair is growing every single waking sleeping moment hour of the day by the influence of genetics, blood and hormones.  Each strand of hair on your head is growing at different rates for between 5 - 7 years. 

Each strand of hair has goes through these phases. Human hair
growth is not synchronized.

Next up is the catagen phase. Within those 5-7 years, each individual strand goes through a resting or transitional phase of some sorts for about 10 days. During that resting and transition phase, the hair is not growing. It is getting ready to come out of that teeny tiny follicle or hole that the hair grows out of so new hair can grow in.

Then immediately after the hair finishes resting during its categen phase, it now moves on to the telogen phase which is the last phase. The telogen phase last about 90 days (3 months). During this time the hair is literally in the process of coming out. This final phase is a success when you see a tiny white bulb attached to each individual strand as it prepares for a new one to come in. So now you see why hairstylists don't fret too much when you complain that your hair is coming out. Every day some strands are going through the telogen phase. And as long as we can see those bulbs, then it's on on and crackalackin. If we see more snapping pieces, that tells us that YOU are snatching it out some how some way and we have to go into servant mode to serve you and your hair.

This is a indicator that new hair
will be growing in. Technically, this
photo reflects dead hair.

As you guessed it, now, new strands start grow back in. So all that jive about back when you were a kid and your mom cut your hair or permed your hair and it never was the same is just that...jive. It does not matter what they did to your hair because between every 5-7 years, you'll be getting an entire new head of hair that will be physically different in appearance and texture as you age. So please, forgive your mom, aunt, grandma, sister or best friend. You can also stop telling that story and begin to nurture the new hair God is giving you that will grow (except in the instance of hair disorders where the hair will not grow).

So as you can see in the explanation of how hair grows, no where during the anagen, categen and telogen phase does the body have a licensed person with a pair of shears in your scalp making your hair grow. So hair cuts do not make hair grow nor do they stop hair from breaking off. When it comes to cutting, trimming, snipping and precision hair cuts, they have nothing to do with growing hair. No sir ree, those words have more to do with money than anything. If you get a snip, clip or trim; its free. But if you get a precision cut; welllll,  that too is another story. Because haircuts can range anywhere between $12.00 to $1,200.00. Yep, can you say, Ted Gibson (ooh, I love him so). So why then do we even cut hair? And what are the benefits of cutting hair, you ask? I look at it this way, a hair cut is to hair what selecting the right clothes size is to the body ...what selecting the right shoe size is for the feet. And so those varying types of haircuts are tailored for the individual style just as tailored suits, shirts and ties are for the individual style and budget. There are people who would pay $1,200 for a shirt and there are some who would pay that for a hair cut.  Now you see why L'oreal says, "You're worth it." They don't tell you this kind of stuff at your hair salon, do they?

There many people walking around wearing the wrong bra size, the wrong clothes size, the wrong shoe size, ill fitted shirts and snap on bow ties; and you know what? It suits them just fine. I mean no has ever died from wearing ill fitted anything. After all togas were fashionable during its day. But something about tailor made led to the mass production of all different types of clothing at different prices for different people with different styles which ended up paving the way for fashion like no other. So while the toga lost is chutzpah in the fashion world, it made its way over to a more befitting (no pun intended) scene over in the world of sleep in the category of mattresses to what we now call a "top sheet." lol

While the 3 phases of hair growth clearly demonstrates that cutting hair has nothing to do with those 3 phases, it does show that the more the hair grows and gets longer, the older hair is. So long hair is old hair. That then explains why longer hair can be priced differently at hair salons. In addition to physically taking more time and more product to care for and style long hair, we have to tend to it differently from shorter hair because shorter hair is typically stronger. The longer the hair; the older the hair; the more fragile the ends become. The ends of the hair is where we literally see the length. So if the ends of the hair are not properly cared for: snapping, splitting, fraying, swelling and ultimately breakage is the result. Cutting, snipping, trimming and precision hair cutting helps hair in 3 ways. 

The picture to the left reflects frayed ends that typically comes
from using the wrong comb and aggressive styling techniques.
This customer grew her hair WITHOUT getting any hair cuts.

The first benefit of hair cut is that it reduces the likelihood of hair splitting and snapping off by cutting of the pieces that are splitting. Now if the hair stylist does not cut off the entire split, the hair will continue to split. So it is either all or nothing depending on how long the splits are. If they splits are not too bad, they have some pretty expensive hair products that can mend or hold the ends together until it grows some and you can get your hair cut. I use them all the time for customers whose ends are too bad. The second benefit of a hair cut is performance. A hair cut definitely makes the hair perform better as it relates movement and flexibility to style it differently be it wash and wear, roller sets, blow drying it, curling it or smoothing it out. The last and final beneficial reason to getting your hair cut is the style, pizzazz, razzamatazz and yes even sex appeal! Hair cuts are an artistic expression of the individual and the hair fabric itself. Again, just as having a piece of fabric cut professionals to fit your body type is so very different from going to TJ Maxx and buying a generic size 16 to fit your body type. I mean their is customizing and then there is sizing. So hair cuts in the varying forms of snipping, clipping, trimming, shaving, and precision cutting can be interpreted as a necessary artistic expression for those who want it at different prices from the varying skilled or unskilled people who cut hair. 

For those who are reading this blog and is frowning upon my advice of telling my customer that she doe not have to get her hair cut; don't be mad. Because, what they don't tell you at the hair salon is that all hair cuts are not equal. All I am going to say about hair cuts are a few bewares. Beware of those FREE trims. Beware of "snip/clip ends." Beware of those, "Imma just take a little off." Why? Remember all hair strands in humans do not grow at the same time, right? So getting those free trims and all that jive is like NOT getting you hair cut at all. If you are not getting a precision cut from a licensed professional who can properly go throughout your entire head of hair and give it some sort of shape and balance so that it can do some amazing things, then get out the chair. In addition, inquire about their skill set and training. Ask what techniques have they learned lately. Ask to see their certificates. Ask who do they constantly work under or with. I mean doctors, attorney and professors do. You are better off without the hair cut if the hair stylist can not answer at least 3 of those questions. Any professional who cuts hair can tell you that just because someone has a cosmetology license, does not mean that they can cut hair proficiently. I am so serious about the entire team of hairstylists at the salon learning how to cut and style hair, I have consistently  hired the local top stylists, Stephano, Kris Blu, Dr. Spritz Nuccio and Cheryl Basilisco to train, certify and keep us on point. And our customers love it. In addition, the entire Reverence Design Team have been trained in Volumetrics hair cutting over at S.P.A.C.E. in Pittsburgh, Pa.  LaKeisha Glenn, my business partner and myself were certified in Volumetrics hair cutting by Philip Pelusi and Jeffrey Reitz personally. Training, collaborations and receiving certification are proven and effective bragging rights.  

LaKeisha to the left and me to the WRIGHT, oops my
other right!

As for the ends breaking off, welllllll TBH, those ends are simply tearing for about 4 reasons. The first is the obvious, they are being snatched, pulled and torn by aggressive styling techniques (combing with the wrong comb, twisting the ends during hair enhancement services, drying out from heat products or your hands which produce friction/heat and lastly, too much moisture). Refrain from using water based anything on your hair if you want to NOT cut it and keep it long.  Again, I must reiterate; "You do not have to get it cut if you do not want to." Preserving the length without cutting is all about pampering those ends so they don't break off, split and tear as fast as that 1/4th inch grows from your scalp. If the hair is cut properly, technically it should look better as it grows out, and during that final month a hair cut is due. Preferably under a full moon. 

So if you want to keep the look, you will have to cut it every 4-6 weeks. If you do not want to keep the look then cutting hair every 10-12 weeks will suffice and you will be able to maintain some sort of style as you grow it out to get a new hair cut or just to grow it long. In the event you never want your hair cut; then don't cut it. Just understand that a hair style of any sorts is out of the picture. I always tell my customers, "If you want long hair; ya gotta keep the scissors out of it." And for those customers who complain how their hair looks awful only after paying for hair cut last month. I always respond, "Like dude, Philip Pelusi taught me that weight is the enemy of all hair styles. So that 1/4 inch of hair that just grew this month, basically is giving me a new canvas to either recreate last month's hair cut or do something new all together." They they go, "Oh."

I taught my customer how this picture
depicts what NOT to do your hair. It is
the wrong curling iron, wrong size and wrong
technique for that length and texture of
hair.

In the end, I took the time to listen to her. To hear what she was really saying so that I could meet her needs versus using the fact that I am a licensed professional who has some implied authority over her hair. Because I do not. In addition, I took the time to teach her how to care for her hair in between salon visits so that her hair would not fray, split and break off.  I gave her the pure and unadulterated truth of what will happen to her hair if she deviates in any form from her hair lessons. I drew pictures, used analogies and finally I did some good old fashioned hands on lessons to get her inspired to do the right thing by her hair. Hair care and how to do it, works best when customized. While I am a fan of YOUTUBE like many, understand that those are generalizations and should be used just for that; in general. If you want to learn about your hair and how to do it, it is best that you be the model in the lesson. Be prepared for some learning curves. But know that it can be done. 

The best part of my job!

As a licensed cosmetologist, I love cutting hair just like a chef loves cooking. And like a chef, I am of the mindset that you do not have to do status quo to achieve some amazing healthy, tasty and pleasant looking food in order to serve some tasty dishes, The same can be said for hair. All you really need are the basics and a little ingenuity. 

While I could have focused on the flip side of not getting a hair cut and scared her with a few scenarios about the dangers of never cutting her hair, I stepped outside the box and gave her what she wanted. In stepping out that box, I took the initiative to teach her what "no hair cut" means for her hair since she never wants to cut it. I am not saying that not cutting hair is for everybody. It all depends on what the individual is trying to achieve with their hair. Because I understand that no two heads of hair are like, I refrain from the "cookie cutter" approach to hair care and hair styling. And just like a size 16 does not look on me the way it will on the next person; the same can be said about a hair a cut.