Keeping it 100

The Living Legend, Vidal Sasoon,
"If you don't look good, we don't look good."

The beauty industry is quite exciting and full of surprises as well as wonderful people. Most of the attention is given to all the things and people they do not like about the beauty industry; while the good that people do continues to fall under the radar.

Whenever I do a presentation, I make it a point to stress that there is a paradigm shift in hair care where women want to know what are we (the beauty professional) doing to their hair, why does it cost what it does, how much training have we (the beauty professional) had, how much more training will we get and so on. I personally attribute part of this paradigm shift to the internet and the era of "do it yourself." Gone are the days of sitting in the chair and having your way with clients (guests). Women want to know. I am somewhat new to the industry and I constantly here about the good ol' days.

Well today, the good ol' days just got better and I am most certain that the best is soon to follow. As I keep it 100, I can tell you that there are some phenomenal professionals in the beauty industry who work in the spirit of the good ol' days to the point of making future "good ol'days" today. Some famous and some not so famous. Her are three (famous and not so famous) beauty professional who have kept and is "Keeping it 100."

My "shero," Lady, Olive Benson

I have had the blessing to meet the person I patterned my entire career after. I cried so hard when she called me on the phone; you'd thought I hit the Mega Millions! Her name was Olive Benson. What a pioneer she was. She single handed made it her priority to challenge the makers of hair color to make it safer for women who chemically altered their hair with sodium hydroxide and amonium thioglycolate. She was a proctor for the American Board of Certified Colorists. She went out of her way to pave the way for future cosmetologists to step up their A-Game and be amongst the elite working with the best using the best products and tools.

The Epitome of "A-Game,"
Pedicurist, Mr. Bastien Gonzalez

And what about Bastien Gonzlez? He is the manicurist extraordinare who is so profound at what he does, he doesn't even polish nails! Wow, now that's keepin it 100. This man is so passionate about the beauty of hands and feet; he is quoted as saying that "nail polish messes up the beauty of feet." Did I mention, you can not book an appointment with him because he has a "members only" policy. Dude, now that is what you call, "one-of-a-kind." Mr. Gonzalez epitomizes what it is to be true to yourself. He does not call his refer to his clients and customers as clients or customers. Nope, he call them his "foot" soilders. All they do is walk the beaches and hallways of the most luxurious beaches and spas around the world barefooted so gracefully, that others ask, "who does your feet?" That's keepin it 100.

In skin care, I met an esthetician named Raina Brown (sorry no photo was available). Raina is a recent graduate of esthetics. She simply amazes me with her signature flower in her hair to accent her beauty. She keeps it 100 by giving her customers (guests) the ultimate facial experience. She enhances that experience with her individualized take home tips and yes that flower in her hair lights up the room and makes everyone she touches smile in amazement.

In the era of Reality T.V , Dr. Oz, Oprah, Deepak and Wayne Dyer, I am surprised that we have no "Good News" T.V. They say that good news is boring and that it does not bring in the money or sponsorships like bad news does. As I keep it 100; perhaps what they have before them is not good news? I do.

I have some good news. The people who work in the beauty industry truly care and are very passionate people who make good news beautiful. And as I keep it 100, I am proud to be a licensed cometologist. We change lives. We enhance peoples beauty, we promote healthy self esteem and self awareness. We can turn a frown upside down. Beauty professionals do more than just hair, skin and nails. There are many of us who ooze reciprocity. We give back as much as we receive. For real; keeping it 100, I liken the passion and committment of beauty professionals who are on their A-Game to a mantra the living legend Vidal Sasoon made famous that I live by, "We take pride in everything we do. If you don't look good; we don't look good!"

To all the beauty professionals who are on their A-Game, is truly passionate about doing the right thing because it's the right thing to do and all that jive; keep up the good work. The customers love us. We are the blessed, humble, healty, wealthy and happy ones. The beauty industry is full of professionas who are truly,,,, all that and a bag of chips!

Hey I'm just keeping it 100.

My Hair Use to Be...

What's happening with my hair?

A woman has a lot to endure as she ages. Change is one of the biggest. When one thinks of the changes that a woman goes through as she ages, the first few things that comes to mind are her chronological age, her boobs and her ability or inability to have children. While those are the most popular, there are many more. 

Let's see; there is changing of the hormones, which for many, can bring about menopause. There is also weight gain, changes in the appearance of skin by means of moles, wrinkles, age spots and much more to name a few. 

Of all the changes a woman has to endure and live with, hair loss is one of those changes many women struggle with and can also downright deny that subtle to drastic changes are indeed occurring. In my professional opinion, more should be done to prepare a woman for the possibilities of hair loss and thinning as they age. Because America is such a image conscious place to live, preparing one for all the changes that will take place and what to do as those changes occur are just as important as preparing a new employee to prepare his taxes and investment portfolio to benefit him or her as he/she ages.

As a professional cosmetologist, I am often asked by women how come they were never told what to expect about their hair as they age. Many women are frustrated and in denial about how severe hair thinning and hair loss can be. The popular stereotype is that women begin to loose their hair in their sixties. Many also feel that at the age of sixty, looking attractive is not important. Those two school of thoughts can only be broken down to one thing and one thing only; myths. Regardless the age, sex, race, class and so on many women want to look nice and adorn themselves at any age. One is never too old to look nice or to want to look nice.

I tell every guest I service of all ages from every walk of life, "I'm in the beauty business. I'm not the person to step in front of and throw away any facet of beauty. The beauty salon is all about beauty!" That statement always brings a smile to a person's face. While we all have different definitions of beauty and how we want to express it; it is beauty nonetheless. However, there are things done in the name of beauty and anti-aging beauty that actually speeds up the process of aging and compromises hair with more speed and intensity. 

Just as we all know aging is innate and it will occur, does not mean that we have to speed things along and make the aging process go faster. While many women desire to age gracefully with time there are those in between and in the midst of it all who want to maintain some level of enhanced beauty. With that, I will examine The Top 5 things Done to our Hair to speed aging up and how we can slow that baby down!

The Top 5 things Done to our Hair that speeds up the its aging process (drum roll please)... 

1. Treating your hair as you did when you were in your teens and twenties:  Believe it or not, the life expectancy of one strand of hair is 7 years. So every seven years, you practically have an entire new head of hair. When the hair is replenished, it is typically thinner (in diameter) and some follicles (the hole the hair actually grows from) can die off; thus making hair thinner and less dense (the number of hairs per cubic inch). As you age, I suggest upping the anty on the quality of hair care products one uses on their hair. The three words you should look for on the bottle or advertisement are: antioxidants (they fight off environmental stressors that deteriorates hair and makes it look older), protein (soy, wheat and hydrolyzed keratin are the best they rebuild and strengthen keeping it from snapping and breaking) and shine enhancers (olive oils, jojoba and other exotic fruit oils are great for giving the hair slip and adding sheen to the hair without weighing the hair down).
2. Infrequent Shampooing: Remember when you were younger, you could go for weeks without shampooing your hair? The operative word in that sentence is younger. Remember hair gets softer as we age, so infrequent shampooing leaves hair coated, limp and dull; hence unwanted breakage. The scalp is secreting yeast. The less often it is shampooed, the more the yeast will spread throughout the hair; thus making it porous, weak, fragile and prone to breakage. Shampoo your hair at least once per week. Remember, shampoo is to your hair what soap is to skin and soap powder is to clothes. Need I say more? Lastly, be sure to invest in quality products. Be leery of over the counter and savvy salon products that over promise and under deliver. Money back guarantee is a must.
3. Infrequent or Discontinued Hair Cuts:  As we age so does our time and money. So while both may be slipping through our fingers faster than we we can count it; save a few bucks for a hair cut every 8-10 weeks. Again, keep in mind; hair is more fragile as we age. Typically around the age of 35, women and men really notice a big difference in their hair. A hair cut is to your hair, what filing is to finger nails! Remember to shop around for a master cutter, get a consultation, pre-book your appointment before you leave and yes cutting hair under a full moon grows hair a wee bit faster. So download a lunar app on your phone or purchase a calendar with one and boom...that's it!
4. Incorrect Styling Tools: In the era of the "natural hair" phenomenon; nothing damages the scalp and hair more than the wrong styling tools. I am more than aware of the reported dangers of chemicals on hair. However, I tend to lend my expertise to the realities of practicalities. So why every self proclaimed or self taught expert on natural hair is bad mouthing, bad blogging, bad writing and every other bad thing-ing about chemical relaxers, straighteners or hair color; I tend to know it is what is done to the hair the most that is the culprit. So for all practical intents and purposes most people comb, tease, pick, brush, slick, clip, pull, tuck, scrunch, braid, twist, blow dry, roller set, wrap and everything in between when it comes to caring for and grooming the hair. Keeping that in mind; it is the styling tools that come into contact with the scalp and hair more than chemicals. If those styling tools are the wrong kind, damaged hair is the result. Improper and poor quality styling tools lead to scratching, scarring and in some instances cutting of the scalp. Improper and poor quality tools coupled with the wrong technique on how to use them is the equivalent of using a butter knife to cut raw meat. Proper tool selection and how to use them is very important. A consultation with your licensed beauty professional can help with this problem.
5. Medication and Vitamin Supplements: Another culprit to speeding up the aging process on hair are medications and vitamin supplements. There are medications that can promote hair thinning, dryness, hair loss and scalp irritation. In the event side affects from the medication begins or will affect your hair; speak with your doctor for help. Keep in mind your M.D, Gynecologists, Oncologist and all those other "gists" are NOT dermatologists. Be sure to have your doctor refer you to one for proper diagnosis and treatment. Do not play doctor. Do not ask your cosmetologist to play doctor. The inner workings of your organs, how they are nourished and scalp are the foundation of the health of the hair. Hair care products, styling tools and cosmetologists makes hair look and feel healthy. With that said, DO NOT discontinue medications without talking to your doctor first. Inform your doctor of any changes in your hair and scalp. Lastly, while vitamin supplements can help; they are not a cure all to re-grow and re-fortify hair. Ask your doctor about the benefits of vitamins and other supplements as it relates to your health and hair. 

In conclusion the hair you had on your head at 14, 21, 28,35,42,49,56 or 61 years of age and so on are not the same. Your hair changes as you age.  Your hair care regimen, products, styling products and styling techniques must change as you age as well. A consultation with a professional cosmetologist and/or a visit to the dermatologist is the best place to start with adjusting your hair care as you age. If it works use it. If it does not, seek help. If you do not have a professional stylist, feel free to contact those 1-800 and 1-866 numbers on the side of the box from the products you purchased. I also recommend visiting the company's website. Companies love to hear from their consumers. Trust me, it is how they get better. Everyone does not have to to go to the hair salon to have healthy hair at any age. Hair loss and thinning are the norm for all humans; both male and female. While we can not totally make our hair what it "use to be," we do not have to speed up the thinning and hair loss process and make it into something that "won't be...." on our heads that is!